Revival of the REVIVAL of the ULTIMATE SATIVA THREAD a.k.a R.U.S.T II

[Dankwolf]

My none sativa 4 weeks of flower ( member said she was not sativa lol) . any way the cure mns .

She smells of lemon , acrid feet/sex . she stretch 3+ times her hight . stretchy bad had to cut the top 2 ft off and super crop all other branches remaining .

She is the skinny leaf plant if that member is still confused . lol

 

[Sticky Sat]

Just a thought, could high humidity help with potency in Tropical sativas? Ever get sun burned in a swimming pool? Water does intensify the sun, makes you wonder if the high humidity in places like Thailand helps potency. True indica hash plants have a dry brittle resin but sativa is very sticky. Just a thought.

i really don't think so my friend... Here we have temps of 26 to 35°C and about 100 % rh all year long... Can't say i'm not getting high from what i grow but i strongly doubt it's more potent than if it had been grown in drier places...

Maybe it wouldn't be the same with all strains but i gave clones to a friend who grows indoor under hps (yes, even in the tropics...) and although his buds looked much nicer, mine packed way more punch and intensity, and lasted longer... To the point you'd believe it was another strain... Not sure the same would be true with weed grown under new lights like LED etc...

It seems that at our latitude buds get ripe about a week faster though...

 

[romanoweed]

Since in the same moment in the rsc highland thai thread i asked if one can grow puure sativas like 20 to 24 weeks flowering ones i ask the same again. Did anyone try such a crazy thing? I mean you would shure harvest a tiny bud, but would that turn out?
Any experiences at around 45 degre north.. middle europe?

I see 2 main Problems and one wich might be no problem:
1: Here it often only snows around end of december, so frost could kill plants, but i have hope cause i often heard that thais are extremly frost resistant. So maybe it would live until end of december if you lucky and it doesent earlier.
2. Light intensity: in their natural habitat sativas have high light intensity, and i multiple times heard in indoor growing you need stronger lamps as average. So this seems unsolvable.
3: no problem seems to be mold, cause in their habitat sativas have still higher humidity than here, so they are mostly humidity resistent.

So the biggest problem stays lightintensity.
But on the floweringtime side i just would consider harvesting very early, wich would make a little harvest, not tasting as good, but early harvest TO A CERTAIN DEGREE can eventually even intensivy some sativas trippyness.
Aswell there is a soulution of prevegging for about two months indoor to gain an earlier harvest. But i think i heard some lineges arent impressed by preflowering as much as others if i racall this right. But how much can you shorten harvet time? is there a limit? Cause otherwise this seems the easiest soulution for theharvest-time-problem. Easy seems to be that if i recall right , that in early vegetation you have a big variety of Lamps wich can be used. Aswell lighting cycles seem rather unimportant. I even heard plants dont need pure dark at night , but some said sativas can hermie if not dark at night.. so if that hasent effect on hermies, then you could even just install some lights in the corner of your bedroom.
And the expences for 2 months wouldnt be that great, so easy and quiet cheap.

So if anyone has any tipps how to grow a puure 20 to 24 week flowering sativa please tell. I dont care for Taste, just wanna know if someone managed to get some strong sativa at around 45 degree north? And i never heard someone talk closer about that topic elswhere, so i would have a clue after it.

Thanx

 

[Thule]

So if anyone has any tipps how to grow a puure 20 to 24 week flowering sativa please tell. I dont care for Taste, just wanna know if someone managed to get some strong sativa at around 45 degree north? And i never heard someone talk closer about that topic elswhere, so i had a clue after it.

Thanx

With some luck you can maybe harvest some seeded buds from your Thai before the frosts. No guarantees though. RSC Nanda Devi for example would probably finish perfectly at your latitude. There are plenty of fast finishing sativas for northern latitudes but if it's really the Thai you want you have a theoretical possibility of crossing it with some of the early ones and going from there the next year. Someone else can bring up light derprivation and greenhouses..

 

[romanoweed]

but is light deprivation the go to soulution? cause if that claim is right that i can preflower indoors and harvest will be earlier, this would be a unlike easier task..
The question is if you can harvest earlier, how shure that will work out, and how much earlier , if you perform indoor preveg.
I tried light deprivation, made even an automatic one, was to small and plants died cause of oxygen i guess, atleas all became brown in the same time, and its a hard task everything i had to cover with aluminium, or else, it just has to be COMPLETE dark, no holes... Its a hard task... No i can only recomend this if you have muuuuch patience to build it automatic, or you are willing to stand up early and be at home EVERY evening, wich i wasnt. And i failed cause it was to little, so.. risky to install, and loose a complete season, x hours...
Yes and i want a pure Thai sativa, would like to have this questions anwsred for pure sativas 20-24 weekers. No haze intended.. maybe 18 weeker thais, but dont wanna compromise genetics, that wont be the same.. i can imagine nepal shortenup-incrosses.. not the badest, but just not good enough i guess

Hey if you some wanna continue on that Topic : I OPEND a NEW THREAD in outdoorgrowing section: here: https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=360394

 

[Dr.Young]

Veg inside, and plant outside so it flowers in spring anywhere in a greenhouse is do-able im pretty sure.

 

[romanoweed]

dr young. That is actually a hot idea under the requiremnt that 20 weeker sativas need strong lighting only in flower and there fore the more intense sun in summer would solve that problem! probably i could gain strength the effect trough that! I have to admit, that i read : if you wanna use the short days in very early spring, that iread that this earlyflowering was the most consitent achieved rather trough (outdoor) sunlight and rather not trough short indoor lighting.. some said he recommends heated greenhouse. actually ver good idea BUT there is eventually a problem. Its that complete equatorial plants are rather not reacting on lighting if i recall right... and are autoflowering! or not? if you like come over to my thread https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=360394 i also quoted what you said here in that thread

How long do one need to let plants grow in springsun to get them into flowering mode and stay there until done? do you know? i hope this still works for equatorial sativas since im no more so shure about the uninpressability to hours of sunlight

 

[Jammal]

Ace Malawi X CBG Caribe about 110 days of 12/12 from seed, still a ways to go,,,,long Jamaican pheno,,, jungle bush pheno,,,dead sexy

 

[RC_Colas]

dr young. That is actually a hot idea under the requiremnt that 20 weeker sativas need strong lighting only in flower and there fore the more intense sun in summer would solve that problem! probably i could gain strength the effect trough that! I have to admit, that i read : if you wanna use the short days in very early spring, that iread that this earlyflowering was the most consitent achieved rather trough (outdoor) sunlight and rather not trough short indoor lighting.. some said he recommends heated greenhouse. actually ver good idea BUT there is eventually a problem. Its that complete equatorial plants are rather not reacting on lighting if i recall right... and are autoflowering! or not? if you like come over to my thread https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=360394 i also quoted what you said here in that thread

How long do one need to let plants grow in springsun to get them into flowering mode and stay there until done? do you know? i hope this still works for equatorial sativas since im no more so shure about the uninpressability to hours of sunlight

One suggested approach that I have been using sucessfully for many years is to trigger flowering via light deprevation a month or so in advance of when they would flower naturally in your area. Limit them to the maximum amount of light to make them flower and when the light amount in your area matches that you can just leave them out to finish on their own. I grow in pots so I may move them into and out of a dark place daily till the natural amount of light in the fall catches up, making it a labour of love for about two months; ie. June and July with a finish Sept/Oct.

Saludos

RC_Colas

 

[Donald Mallard]

mango hz x zamaldelica ,
throwing out some nice flowers now ,
nice warm haze odor coming through also ,,

 

[leet]

There are not many things you can do to finish 20 weekers in middle europe, light deprivation before you put the plant , greenhouses to protect it, mature clones instead of seedplants, bigger plants instead of small plant will all help to be able to finish a plant in northern climate. I also know for a fact that pot restriction can finish plants faster, a pure African will finish in 12 weeks instead of 16+ weeks in small restricted pot sizes vs the bigger pots but you need to know how to keep plants happy in small pots. Once they are fully flowering you can tranplant to bigger pots. Generally the problem is frost and lots of rain, tropical sativas are OK with lots of rain but for the frost you need to find a microclimate where it doesn't frost or doesn't easily reach 2c until December. If you are near the sea and depending where you are in Middle Europe, you might be lucky. Some years are better than others so luck is involved too. I live in the most southern part of Europe (35o) and I have seen snow in late November but that's not typical. For sure I wouldn't count on the smoke, it would probably be hemp but might be better than nothing

But if you care just for seed, then polinate early and you will get seeds for sure. You will find them later deep inside the centre of the buds.

I also know you can finish pure sativas in south parts of Europe, many people, including myself, have done it.

Neville's Haze under MH+HPS strarting to flower

PS You might be able to use frozen pollen from last year and as soon as you see female flowers you pollinate them so for sure you will have some seeds ready by mid/late Oct. I have never done that.

 

[willydread]

There are not many things you can do to finish 20 weekers in middle europe, light deprivation before you put the plant , greenhouses to protect it, mature clones instead of seedplants, bigger plants instead of small plant will all help to be able to finish a plant in northern climate. I also know for a fact that pot restriction can finish plants faster, a pure African will finish in 12 weeks instead of 16+ weeks in small restricted pot sizes vs the bigger pots but you need to know how to keep plants happy in small pots. Once they are fully flowering you can tranplant to bigger pots. Generally the problem is frost and lots of rain, tropical sativas are OK with lots of rain but for the frost you need to find a microclimate where it doesn't frost or doesn't easily reach 2c until December. If you are near the sea and depending where you are in Middle Europe, you might be lucky. Some years are better than others so luck is involved too. I live in the most southern part of Europe (35o) and I have seen snow in late November but that's not typical. For sure I wouldn't count on the smoke, it would probably be hemp but might be better than nothing View Image But if you care just for seed, then polinate early and you will get seeds for sure. You will find them later deep inside the centre of the buds.

I also know you can finish pure sativas in south parts of Europe, many people, including myself, have done it.

Neville's Haze under MH+HPS strarting to flower


View Image

True, I agree, I live in Central-Southern Europe and I can assure you that, apart from the light, there is little you can do, a week of fog and frost will ruin everything, some years the climate is optimal, other years late November is practically winter ....

 

[JohnnyChicago]

Last Pan-o-Haze pics for a while. A seeded micro plant and a just havested bigger one.

 

[Burro Johnson]

subbed

 

[leet]

Neville's Haze starting to flower 100% organic with mountain spring water under HPS+MH.


She has the luxury of being under 2x600w on her own

 

[Guest]

She looks nice mate do you still have your original nh

 

[Guest]

A old oldtimers haze flower pic , I have nothing newer to post but felt inspired to post some nice,

 

[Dankwolf]

Any one familyer with mns or the cure ?

Any one familyer with mns or the cure ?

I am amazed how hazy leaning the cure is considering she looked like this when I throw her in .

she looks like this now .

She stretched 4x at least in 4 weeks . had to cut top 2 ft of her and super crop bottom branches 6 inches down them . next time I will flip her soon as she roots and try to keep her under 4 ft lol .


I never seen this exterm of genetics reperstion my self or at least to this existent .This is the worse as far as thinking it is a Indy hybrid to full blown sativa . all 3 seeds expressed this trait . 1 male 2 girls so there will be a seed run to look further in this line. I still have seed left but I plan to hold for the moment.

if you have ever run afgooye she will trip you out full blood afghan Indy wide as I have seen leaf wise and finished with narrow leafs like a 80%sativa 20% Indy cross . no stretch with afgooye though maybe 1x . nod afghan I would guess but lefer then la con and others . more like bubba and the galaxy backs this .

 

[leet]

I know what you say but to the trained eye, the big fan 5 fingered leaves near the top shows its clearly a hybrid and not a pure sativa. A pure sativa would never do that. Just because it has very slender leaves at the top ( or x4 stretch ) doesn't make it a pure sativa. Structure also plays a role and leaf/stem structure screams indica to me. I know for sure that none of my mostly/pure sativas do this but I have many 50/50 and mostly sativas that do this. But none of my "full blown" sativas do that.

Neville's haze would never do that ( unless its some extreme NL5 pheno ) and its 75% percent... so what you have there is probably less.

Whenever you see "crowns" like this near the top you know there is some indica blood in there. As a general rule, a sativa would stretch first produce 3 leaves and then single blades before it would start flowering. But this to the untrained eye would seem like a pure sativa. I know it's not black and white and it's a bit of a generalization.

So I kinda agree with the guy that said this is not ( pure ) sativa. It looks like 50/50 at best to me. If you've grown A11 from MrSoul it does the same thing textbook. Very slender leaves almost like a pure haze when flowering , they stretch x4 but finish in 50 days. And when you see this morphological structure you also its not some crazy 14weekers but usually something faster 9-11. These hybrids combine the slenderness of leaves and structure and stretch from sativas but the resin and fastness of flowering from indicas. They look more sativa than what they really are. These are all generalizations and there are extreme examples of course.


It's because of the flowering hormonal changes. Pure sativas gradually build this so they will produce 3 and then single blade leaves. When you see 5 fingered leaves near the top it means there was a sudden hormonal shift which is ultra rare amongst pure sativas. That's why most pure sativas take ages to start flowering too and not 2-3 weeks. The best way to mimic this effect with pure sativas is to go from 24/0 MH to 8/16 HPS with 48hrs darkness ( maybe a couple of times ) and you might get this(11-9-7-5 leaves near the budding tops instead of 7-5-3-1 )

 

[Dankwolf]

Um no . ( in my most respectful voice)