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Philips 315w CDM Elite (CMH)

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Inveterate Tinkerer
Mentor
ICMag Donor
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I just found a good diagram that shows the wiring on the T103 It says the nuetral gets hooked to A to run the clock on 240 and on 120 it shows the nuetral coming in to terminal a then carried out to load. I think Im way over thinking it. Im going to try the 103 on 120 first then if itwont work that way I can always hook it 240 .

The T-103 has double-pole contacts, so it is suitable for switching 120v (using only one contact) or 240v (using both contacts). The clock motor is 120v and must always be hooked up to 120v ONLY. In the case of switching a 120v load, the neutral would be paralleled between the load center, the clock motor and the downstream load. The clock motor can be driven with one leg of the 240v feed, or the 120v feed, but the neutral has to connect to the other clock motor lead.
 

Jhhnn

Active member
Veteran
I just found a good diagram that shows the wiring on the T103 It says the nuetral gets hooked to A to run the clock on 240 and on 120 it shows the nuetral coming in to terminal a then carried out to load. I think Im way over thinking it. Im going to try the 103 on 120 first then if itwont work that way I can always hook it 240 .

If you put the timer on the 120v side, wire it like the instructions. If you want the points on the 240V side of the converter, isolate the clock leads & wire them to 120v. Then use the points in the timer to switch the 240v output. Output from the converter & mains power must never touch.

Capische?
 

Unclecrash

Member
Here are the drawing I found . I was going to first wire it 120volt and try like you told me. If that dont work I was going to do it like the diagram for 240volt . Or explain what to switch around in the 240 volt drawing and I will . Im not too swift with comprehension but I think if i post this diagram you can point me correct hopefully. LOL if all else fails my bro is a pretty good electrician , if I can get the time of day.
 
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Jhhnn

Active member
Veteran
Here are the drawing I found . I was going to first wire it 120volt and try like you told me. If that dont work I was going to do it like the diagram for 240volt . Or explain what to switch around in the 240 volt drawing and I will . Im not too swift with comprehension but I think if i post this diagram you can point me correct hopefully. LOL if all else fails my bro is a pretty good electrician , if I can get the time of day.

The timer comes with the clock leads connected to A & 1. To switch converter output, remove the clock wire from 1 & wire it direct to the 120v input. Now there's nothing on 1 or 3 until you hook up the 240v from the converter. Converter output & mains voltage must never be wired together.
 

Unclecrash

Member
Ok so I have to have 120v to run clock pull wire #1 hook to my 120v input. Now that frees up 1 and 3 for my hots from converter,which is 240v. And 2 and 4 are 240hots to ballast . do i got it correct? LOL I sure hope so there is always my bro's bad ass electrical tester.:laughing: I be probeing.
 

Jhhnn

Active member
Veteran
Ok so I have to have 120v to run clock pull wire #1 hook to my 120v input. Now that frees up 1 and 3 for my hots from converter,which is 240v. And 2 and 4 are 240hots to ballast . do i got it correct? LOL I sure hope so there is always my bro's bad ass electrical tester.:laughing: I be probeing.

Yes.
 

GoldenSyrup

Active member
Three more units ordered they should hopefully be with my on Monday, I was hoping tomorrow but the supplier is waiting for a shipment of lamps from Phillips.
 

Unclecrash

Member

LOL thanks man, for putting up with me. I figure you were either close to pulling your hair out, or you were sitting back smoking a fatty shakin your head as you laughed it off.:biggrin: I got my first ballast from ebay like I said it would probably beat Tom's . I stayed on him and I have a reacking # for since yesterday but its still not moving .:biggrin: He has some issue's he said he was dealing with moving the shipping department or some crap and a couple machines were down .
 

Unclecrash

Member
Maxibright UK do one, they use the same phillips components as everyone else as far as im aware. Google maxibright 315 CDM
Thanks looks like a nice setup. Im looking more for just the ballast to do them myself. I might contact the guy I got the first from and see if he will deal on the rest.
 

Jhhnn

Active member
Veteran
On your mains coming to the block. Do you have a crimp terminal with a hole where you take the screw out the block and put the wire with the crimp with hole in it ,put the screw through and bolt it down. . It looks like there not just bare wire under the plate.

They're forked terminals, similar to this-

https://www.fastenal.com/products/d...nnectors"|~ ~|categoryl3:"601350 Terminals"|~

pin terminals also work well with that kind of terminal block-

https://www.fastenal.com/products/d...onnectors"|~ ~|categoryl3:"604304 Ferrules"|~

Automotive type terminals need a special crimping tool-

http://www.delcity.net/store/Crimpi...p_kw=&mp_mt=&gclid=CJeQ9dyv3McCFQataQodWSUMSQ

I used ferrules similar to these on the other wires-

http://www.ferrulesdirect.com/

I used a lot of terminals in my former line of work & some of them always followed me home...
 
Got some new toys :dance013:
 

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GoldenSyrup

Active member
Awesome Weed, Killer. Keep us updated on how you get on man :) My units should be with me on Monday, a few days before I flip so we'll see how they perform using the mastercolour lamps.

What space are you in? As I'll be using 4 in 120x240x200cm.

Peace
 
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