My experience test fitting in the Mitronix sockets is the same- a bit of a pita getting the electrodes in the holes, a very precise fit, but they twist & lock in solid. No way I could reverse the pins at installation.
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Philips 315w CDM Elite (CMH)
- Thread starter rives
- Start date
My experience test fitting in the Mitronix sockets is the same- a bit of a pita getting the electrodes in the holes, a very precise fit, but they twist & lock in solid. No way I could reverse the pins at installation.
I will take another look at it next time its off. I probably didn't have it seated properly.
Beta Test Team
Member
Thanks for posting. Was it in a dPap reflector? I would have thought the reading to be greater.
Are you using the SolarMeter 6.0 or 6.2 meter? From what you wrote about 0.0 measurement, could you maybe be using 5.0?
To convert that reading if it's UV-B (mW/cm^2 of weighted UV-B spectrum) to irradiance (umol/s/m^2 of non-weighted UV-B spectrum), the irradiance value (as micromoles) would likely be greater than 0.1 (if we had greater resolution to less than 0.0), but it doesn't look like the measurement would be optimal.
T5 (wattage not listed) have around 4x greater unweighted UV-B than the 942, at least from the measured listed by by Nelson & Bugbee from an integrating sphere (collects and measures irradiance of all radiation from all directions).
Beta Test Team
Member
The round vertical reflector is the best shape for optimal reflection (uniformity) and reduced re-strike of photons with best control of photon placement; this is why car headlights are vertical and round, as well.
They don't offer 2 lamps in a single fixture.
Beta Test Team
Member
That value converted to microWatt (uW), comes to 30 uW/cm^2, which is plenty to have a strong effect on Cannabis (that would likely be too much UV-B, when accounting for photoperiod hours). If you're interested into the research, check out the thread I wrote and linked to you before for info on UV-B use on Cannabis:
"UV-B & UV-A: Lamp ouptut and goal umol"
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=302671
Specifically, this post:
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php?p=6942099&postcount=7
1 mW/cm^2 = 1,000 uW/cm^2
I'm already up into the 28+% THC range. I'm sure it would be even higher if I harvested earlier. The added benefit from the UV-B if there is any won't be something I will notice.. As for the reflectors I just think there ugly. They could be the best there are. If I don't like the way they look I wont use them.
maryjane481
Member
Double dpapillion 630W
Double dpapillion 630W
Where can I purchase a double dpapillion 630w in the U.S.?
I searched the net, could not find a U.S.Supplier.
Double dpapillion 630W
Where can I purchase a double dpapillion 630w in the U.S.?
I searched the net, could not find a U.S.Supplier.
These look lie the same bulb assemblies in my LEC. Both sides look the same to me. Am I missing something?
http://www.ebay.ie/itm/6-pcs-of-PGZ...833?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item418fd8a3c9
http://www.ebay.ie/itm/6-pcs-of-PGZ...833?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item418fd8a3c9
The hole on the right looks marginally bigger to me, but it may be an illusion. They are definitely missing the flat spot on the smaller hole that I've seen on all of the other versions of the socket.
Cheap knock off, maybe?
Out of curiosity, I went to Mitronix to cross check the price- $14.75, so the ebay ones aren't that cheap. The lampholders I bought a couple of months ago look just like yours, but the pic on the mitronics page shows a holder w/o the flat in the smaller hole-
http://lighting.mitronix.com/item/metal-halide-lampholders/metal-halide/k577a
Weirdness. I suppose either one would be OK just so long as the big pin won't fit in the small hole. W/O the visual indicator of the flat, it'd drive a guy nuts if he didn't notice the difference in pin diameters.
I'm with ya on that. I will have to mark the base so I don't insert the bulbs in wrong again. That's juts wrong. I don't see how that helps anyone. I got the spare bulbs in today that's when I noticed both sides on the fixture look the same as far as I can tell. The bulb has different post's. If the base allows the bulbs to be inserted either way its just a mistake waiting to happen. Looking at that pic what hole does the big post go in??
Attachments
I know that Mitronix had two versions of the socket early on and it looks like they've changed it again. On the first one, Philips changed their design and didn't let any third-party suppliers know - Mitronix found out about it when people started complaining that their new lamps wouldn't fit. They were great about it, they replaced my whole batch as soon as they had the new design in production.
HH, the sockets should be oriented so that the internal support structure in the lamp faces the reflector rather than pointing out toward the area being lit.
HH, the sockets should be oriented so that the internal support structure in the lamp faces the reflector rather than pointing out toward the area being lit.
I can mark it with a sharpie. Make it easier without worry...
Once you mark it with a sharpie, try rotating the lamp 180 degrees in the holder to see if it really will go in backwards. I suspect that it won't, I certainly hope that it won't, but you're the guy who needs to know & can find out for sure.
Hell, I'm not sure it actually makes any difference. If the ballast uses push-pull output, it shouldn't matter at all.
I can do that but I wont turn it on.. I will just check fit.
hope u like the CMH, PF, I'm sure you will.
iirc you are using it in veg only? that's where most of my experience with it is, in veg... big thick stems (not hollow) and HUGE fan leaves on plants no taller than 12 inches tall.
iirc you are using it in veg only? that's where most of my experience with it is, in veg... big thick stems (not hollow) and HUGE fan leaves on plants no taller than 12 inches tall.
I hope so too. It was not cheap. I have had plants with hollow stems. They where excellent quality. I have never noticed anything bad from hollow stems..
The discussion about lampholders & polarity tickled my brain, so I deliberately wired a lampholder backwards to see what happens. With my ceramatec ballast, it works the same afaict. No difference. I doubt that Philips ballasts are any different.
The PGZ format is designed for a variety of lighting devices, not just 315's. Some of those devices can be polarity sensitive, particularly LED arrays. Some are, some aren't- it has to do with the way AC power is rectified into DC power.
I was at MickeyD's the other morning when the staff was changing out a LED spotlight over the soda machine. The fixture had a smaller PGZ lampholder & they were all scratching their heads. I think that may have set me to thinking, too.
The PGZ format is designed for a variety of lighting devices, not just 315's. Some of those devices can be polarity sensitive, particularly LED arrays. Some are, some aren't- it has to do with the way AC power is rectified into DC power.
I was at MickeyD's the other morning when the staff was changing out a LED spotlight over the soda machine. The fixture had a smaller PGZ lampholder & they were all scratching their heads. I think that may have set me to thinking, too.
AC needs to be wired with the correct polarity. If you reverse these wires the device you plug in to the receptacle may "work" but it is unsafe and risks a short circuit, shock, or fire. Some devices may become damaged if left on a reversed polarity. The presence of live voltage at the "wrong end" of a circuit or circuit board may cause some devices on the board to remain energized even when the device has been "switched off". A result can be overheating or electrical shock hazards. You can reverse LINE and LOAD connections on daisy-chained devices and the circuit will appear to work properly. However the circuit may not be safe or fully protected. You can purchase Receptacle Testers to make sure none of your receptacles are wired wrong. This is more common than many realize. I have found many with reversed polarity in previous homes. This is something I check anytime I purchase or rent new homes. I'm pretty sure either of these will work..Adding a Bridge Rectifier to a DC circuit will prevent a reverse polarity issues. Will not matter if you swap the positive/Negative leads you will always get positive voltage when a Bridge Rectifier is used.
http://www.amazon.com/Sperry-Instruments-GFI6302-Outlet-Tester/dp/B000RUL2UU/ref=pd_bxgy_60_text_z
http://www.amazon.com/GE-3-Wire-Rec...sim_469_5?ie=UTF8&refRID=0SAWVZ4W7G4QRNBD67TM
http://www.amazon.com/Sperry-Instruments-GFI6302-Outlet-Tester/dp/B000RUL2UU/ref=pd_bxgy_60_text_z
http://www.amazon.com/GE-3-Wire-Rec...sim_469_5?ie=UTF8&refRID=0SAWVZ4W7G4QRNBD67TM
