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Philips 315w CDM Elite (CMH)

rives

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I have 1 of those but it wont fit inside the controllers. I would have to make another box to use these open-frame types.
I'm using these. They are just replacements of the original that went bad.

https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_31&products_id=130


I also have this timer but I was curious whats the correct way to wire it. I don't think they had this wired right. Could u take a look and let me know if this is right..

1-2 are input 120v hot/neutral ?

3-5 are outputs to coil..


That contactor should be fine.

That is the way that I would read the schematic. Damn, they could use some more exposure to the way that we do it in the west! You can't really tell which is the common, the N.O., or the N.C...

Do you have a meter?

If I had to bet, I'd go with #3 as the common, #4 normally open, and #5 as normally closed.
 

Hammerhead

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yes I have a few meters. I would need to apply 120v to see how those outputs work. I wanted to make sure I apply power correctly 1st. I will put hot on#1 and N on #2
 

Hammerhead

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rives are there any code issues jumping terminals on outlets. I don't like using those holes on the back of outlets so I use a piece of wire from from the screw terminals to the next outlet like this;;
 

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rives

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rives are there any code issues jumping terminals on outlets. I don't like using those holes on the back of outlets so I use a piece of wire from from the screw terminals to the next outlet like this;;


If you are talking about from one receptacle to another in the same box, then no. If you are talking about daisy-chaining them from one box to another, then the receptacles in the middle of the run should be pig-tailed. This keeps the thru-wiring intact if a receptacle has to be worked on.

I prefer to use the commercial or specification-grade receptacles that use a screw-plate to make the connection. The spring-loaded back-stab style receptacles are junk.
 
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Hammerhead

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Just like the pic I posted. The only other way would be to run power to ea outlet. That's allot of wires. Power coming off the contactor goes to the 1st outlet than is jumped to the next. If that's not correct. I would need to add another set of wires coming off the contactor to the other outlet. I want to make sure its code complaint.
 

rives

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Just like the pic I posted. The only other way would be to run power to ea outlet. That's allot of wires. Power coming off the contactor goes to the 1st outlet than is jumped to the next. If that's not correct. I would need to add another set of wires coming off the contactor to the other outlet. I want to make sure its code complaint.


Jumping the wires complies with code.
 

Hammerhead

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I was looking at a bad contactor and noticed the coil would energize but no current from the load side.. I cant open it to see whats preventing this. Something inside is preventing current from line side to load side. This took me a bit to find since the coil would work but no current on load side.
 

rives

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I was looking at a bad contactor and noticed the coil would energize but no current from the load side.. I cant open it to see whats preventing this. Something inside is preventing current from line side to load side. This took me a bit to find since the coil would work but no current on load side.


Maybe some type of debris between the contacts? If you can turn it sideways and energize the coil a few times, you might be able to dislodge it but it probably wouldn't bode well for the future.
 

Hammerhead

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I did all I could without breaking it apart. Pushing in the contact is also a way to test them. I pushed on it allot I couldn't get it to work..



81Kj9M4dERL._SL1500_.jpg
 

Hammerhead

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mcnasty

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whats the story with the 1000/945w CMH bulbs? Ive seen DE and a single ended 945 now. My buddy has a DE ballast hes not using and I was considering using it on a light move to add to my COB led lights. If I could toss a 945 or 1k CMH in there that would be even better.


So these bulbs any good or do they all explode after a month or something crazy?
 

Hammerhead

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Ive been using 945 for a few years. I had a 1kw CMH test bulb that failed(did not explode). I have a new 1kw test bulb been using it for about 4 months now. The 945 never had any issues. Doesn't matter what wattage bulb ur using. If its a DE single jacket u must use a shield
 

zachrockbadenof

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Seen this on home depot site... thoughts?

View Image

i bought '2' hydro crunch 315's on ebay... $190 each - used both in a 4x3.5ft tent - thought the grow was just 'ok'... i asked numerous sites if anyone has experience with this brand, espec how the bulbs mite compare with phillips...not one response ...

i'm torn whether to have another go using these bulbs, as they only have 1 10 week 12hr run on em (840hrs) , or swap em out for the phillips... was thinking of running '1' phillips to compare against the hydro c. , but doubt in a 4x3.5' tent it would be very scientific...
 

Horselover Fat

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Seen this on home depot site... thoughts?

View Image

I've no experience with a tube for CDM, but to me it doesn't seem necessary as long as the reflector lets the hot air escape. If I were to use more than one bulb I would get two fixtures to spread the light out.

And it kind of looks like I might need another one, but I'm just going to hope this single bulb will get the job done. This is a single Kalichina. It's under Phillips cdm in a dPapillon fixture, which is great for a wide and narrow tent like mine (4x2). It's been under 12/12 for just 5 days. Streching like crazy.
 

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Horselover Fat

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GET MO said:
Seen this on home depot site... thoughts?


I've no experience with a tube for CDM, but to me it doesn't seem necessary as long as the reflector lets the hot air escape. If I were to use more than one bulb I would get two fixtures to spread the light out.

Sorry, I'm dumb. I didn't look at your post carefully enough and I didn't notice it was a double ended bulb insted of two bulbs. That does need the tube I guess, but I still would rather get more fixtures and use the regular 315s. I believe in multiple sources of light.
 
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