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passive plant killer

delta9nxs

No Jive Productions
Veteran
I remember a few grounding rods that took nearly a day to drive in even with a sledge. When I was lucky the boss had the jackhammer with a fitting that would slip over the grounding rod.

Be careful when working with your panel. My boss told my as I was landing the drop from the power company that it explodes your heart if you fuck up...so please DONT FUCK UP cuz I really like ya.

buddy had a bottle of 95 krug, im a spoiled drunk right now.

i've got it down about four feet now. i haven't hit any big rocks yet. if i do i''ll just leave it at that depth because i won't be able to remove it now.


thanks, people!
 

delta9nxs

No Jive Productions
Veteran
moving right along but slowly. why does everything take me longer to do now than it did 10 years ago? the more i learn and become capable of doing mentally my body is correspondingly less capable of performing the tasks. it's not fair! this life thing. still better than the alternative.

is it ok for me to wire the flip solenoids all together in parallel? six of them. to one timer?
 

delta9nxs

No Jive Productions
Veteran
You may have (2) or (3) decades on me but i find the same thing. at this point i can't seem to recover as fast (or at all :) ) from all night sessions (not partying more like building, wiring, plumbing, defoliating).

You mean wire the coils that open/close the contactors so as long as they are 120V (120V coil on a 240V contactor/relay or 120V coil ona 120V contactor/relay) and your timer is 120V you absolutely can do that. To be done right it's pig tails to each set of leads... if you're using one of those mechanical intermatics you could run all the leads to it's lugs.

peace


thank you! and since you are around this is the house panel done. i haven't thrown the breaker yet but will in a couple of hours. i have the house power back on and nothing happened except bright blue arcs that shot across the room and fried the satellite system.
 

delta9nxs

No Jive Productions
Veteran
. forgot to add that those are my lug nuts on the neutral and ground buss's and that's the new 100 amp breaker on the lower right.
 
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delta9nxs

No Jive Productions
Veteran
i think the foil hat protects me from the current.

i'll try to get a pic of the finished 100 amp panel in the shop. so far i'm just running the lights on it. everything else is on the original 60 amp panel.

i have not run a ground from the 60 amp panel to the ground rod yet. i have to get more 8 ga. i got the ground rod down about 7 feet, which is a miracle because of all the big rock.

flips are wired and working.

hanging co2 shit today.

thanks! i feel much better about this electrical situation now and i learned something too.
 

delta9nxs

No Jive Productions
Veteran
the 60 amp panel needs a neutral back to the house panel.

was outlined in a post a while back (but my posts in that sequence were on the long side - too much detail) so you could pull it with other cables :)

(if you already got this handled please ignore this post)

the wire from the 60 amp panel is a four strand cable, three 6 ga. insulated conductors and 1 ground. they are wired properly in the house panel. at the shop the neutral and ground are attached to the same buss. no ground wire going to a rod. so do i need to separate the ground and neutral and run another ground wire to the rod?

everything works as is and the panel is grounded back to the house panel, which is grounded. but i want safety here too.
 

delta9nxs

No Jive Productions
Veteran
yes, the neutral and ground should be separated out and each to it's own bus.

the ground bus bar SHOULD be connected directly to the metal chassis of the 60 AMP panel and the Neutral bus bar SHOULD connect only to the neutrals coming from each circuit and the big cable back to the house. it should be isolated from the metal chassis (just like your new panel).

Sorry b/c in the earlier photo it appeared that there were only (2) hots and a ground coming from the main panel in the house out to that existing panel in the garage as the neutral wasn't visible to me when I looked at the picture.

The way it works now, it works :) the safe way is to not bond the neutral and ground at the shop but leave them separate back to the main house panel by having a separate ground just like your new panel. You can tie the new ground of the existing panel to the new ground you put in for your new panel.

the danger of tying them together as they are now is if you have unbalanced loads on the hot legs and there is a problem. Technically there is a parallel circuit back to the center of the transformer (the actual ground - the earth, the dirt.... terra firma) which is a no-no.... you don't want the ground live :)

Also, if you feel everything is wired correctly (you are confident it is proper now and you've checked and mapped out each outlet served by the existing panel in the shop) you should be able to run about 44 amps (if each circuit can handle it) continuously at 240V (or 88 amps @ 120V) from that existing panel (6 gets sized down to 4 awg for a long run so you have less to work with using 6 awg. then you take 80% of that to see what your continuous is - 44 amps)

but I know you are trying to keep your power usage reasonable.

the lights and flips all worked on the first attempt. starting to look like a grow room now.

i decided to use the cool tubes anyway and have an unusual fan cooling system on them. the air is still contained in the room and has to be cooled by the ac's but it gives me the ability to keep the plant leaf surfaces cooler at the correct distance. the arrangement also scavenges air/co2 from the very bottom of the room and moves it to the top. 12 6" duct fans at .35 amps each. 4.2 amps total to run all 12 fans simultaneously. they will be controlled by the light timers.

i'll be getting the ground wire today for the 60 amp panel.
 

delta9nxs

No Jive Productions
Veteran
almost stepped on this last night. i'm afraid i over-reacted with the hoe a little bit. broke the blade off on his ass. wasn't quite big enough to get a belt, about 3.5 feet. this is the classic timber rattler, aka the canebrake rattlesnake.

i normally wouldn't kill one but this one was right on the path from the house to the shop and the outside lighting is inadequate. but you can bet i'll be fixing that quick!

mrs. d9 was doing the omg it's a rattlesnake routine and wouldn't hold the light still while i worked on him and he was running around and i was chasing him with the hoe and she was screaming and running around with the light. right before bed. that's what you need, a big adrenal rush! she didn't sleep for hours. i, of course, just smoked another bowl and fell off.

finished him off in the driveway but had to get rid of the body so i decided to pick him up with what remained of the hoe handle.

unless you have personally tried to pick up a completely lifeless snake with a stick before you cannot know just how fuckin' impossible this is. you ever see that episode of "family guy" where he is trying to get the dead frog out of the window?

well, it was very similar to that.

i finally succeeded in getting the dead snake balanced on the hoe handle and, with an effort worthy of the Olympics, slung him about thirty feet into the brush.

we've had sustained 100 degree temps and rh in the 20's here recently and it's causing all kinds of animals to move around out of context.
 
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mcfly420

Active member
damn, I guess it had to be killed since it was so close to the shop. Ive had my share of close calls with them out in the SW, and they never made a sound until Im within striking distance? That always seemed strange to me but they chose not to bite my legs/hands/face so :thank you: I had to stop / smoke in order to continue uhh exploring though...


Hope to see some green in your padded cell soon, Im going to be building a 3x3x4ft tent from reflectix soon for a vertical 400w and your washers/drywall screws/tape method should work well
 
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