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OUTDOOR GROWS 2023 -ANYTHING AND EVERYTHING EVERYWHERE-

Calle Minogue

Brother of the COB
My continuation of Ultra Early love

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therevverend

Well-known member
Veteran
A couple weeks back I posted pictures of one of my plants with the mysterious wilting disease that strikes every year. It's never more then 1 or two plants, happens in early summer, and occurs when the weather heats up after a few humid wet days. Even though the plant is wilting and looks thirsty it has plenty of water. The cure is to let it completely dry out. Watering only makes it worse. Starting from the bottom up the large fan leaves and a few of the lower branch leaves will turn necrotic on one side and slowly start to die.

The plant that was stricken has made a full recovery. I stopped watering as soon as I realized what was happening. Only a light amount of water to keep it from wilting allowing the soil to completely dry out by the end of the day. It took about a week, now it's growing vigorously with healthy new growth. I removed most of the necrotic leaves. Here's before and after pictures.

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I feel bad for the growers in the rest of the country, with the rain, smoke, heatwave, etc. I'm glad it ain't me, I've had plenty of that shit and there's still plenty of time for it to come my way. Weather's been perfect, 75-85 degrees F every day. Garden is thriving.

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Here's a look at one of my favorites. Jah Gooey Fruity. Perfect structure, head high, plenty of time to stack on. Smells wonderful. Seeds from @NuggyNic .

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pipeline

Cannabotanist
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Garden is looking great! Little sunshine goes a long way!

Glad the wilting disease went away! Wonder if its a verticillium or what it is. I think verticillium is the one that clogs the xylem and its usually fatal. What you had was probably a root infection and thats what i think I experienced in the past. I think the hot moist soil conditions can promote it if it doesn't have a chance to dry out. That was at the other plot, and haven't experienced it here.

I used to work the top of the soil with a hand shovel to scratch in the top dressing and this is when I noticed it pop up. Feeder roots are good and you don't want to injure them. I think I may have promoted the infection by injuring surface roots over and over, when the environment was becoming conducive to disease.

Planting late with large plants has lots of exposed and possibly stressed roots from beginning to be root bound. May have promoted the diesease. May be less issue if planted earlier with less stress on root tissues, and hopefully less disease.

I didn't know what it was, if it was field runoff causing pesticide contamination in my garden or disease. I moved the plot to the new garden, stopped working the soil before top ressing, and haven't had the issue again. The other spot had wet roots down a foot or so from all the field runoff. Roots health is the foundation of a healthy plant.

I would probably avoid planting in those spots next year if possible to have somewhat of a rotation and/or just make sure the soil dries out well in between waterings.

Use beneficial microbe soil drench called Revitalize to prevent infection. Regalia may be good read label.
 
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laszlokovacs

Well-known member
Sorry to hear about the drowning rains. I would dig some ditches to move water away from the patches. Make a moat and if it dries out enough, you can mound the soil around the plants. Get some mounds buit to plant in next year. Looks like plenty of sun there, but ground has to be able to drain. If you could find spots on a slight hill or located in an area near a hill where water can easily drain off.

We had that smokey haze from canadian wildfires again today. Need the sun to come back soon please.

Keep planting, something will grow! :smoke:
I was planning on digging a trench yesterday morning but by the time the sun was up most of the rain had came down. The compost was supposed to raise the soil near the plants but I only managed to get in a bout a 1/2yd in before the little tractor broke. Excuses, Excuses. Wanted to pick up some gypsum too which I think would have helped things a little bit but cant find it locally atm.

The plants on the right side of the picture have no issues and the ground is only about 4-6 inches higher. Ripping up that huge root i posted a while back was probably a mistake too... Im sure it would have drank up some of this.

Guess I have no one but myself to blame.
 

Old Ford

Well-known member
A couple of pics of how we stand at the mo with some of the garden girls.
Sag's Purple Pinecone a couple of week into LD

Also a couple of pics of RGSC Pinck Cherry Pie also a few weeks into LD

Suffering badly this year with cancer , big struggle this year but i would be more pissed off with myself for not trying ! So the plants are a tad ropey this year but seem to be coming on.
 

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pipeline

Cannabotanist
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Go ahead and get your drainage channels cut, you just need a little groove for the water to go. Make sure it has a slight grade to it so the water moves.

I have to dig these channels to move water away from the edge of the garden. Puddling water is really bad for the plants and will KILL roots, and eventually kill the plants.

A better option in my opinion especially on wet years like this is make the garden one big mound, like mine is, so the water moves off the garden. Those areas in between the small mounds are still utilized by the roots, so it would be better if it was drained too. Channels will draw water and possibly choke out roots instead of having a one big broad mound garden where roots can roam free. More roots more flower! :smoke:
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pipeline

Cannabotanist
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Will run smooth next year then. Could still mound some soil around the plants ina 1 ft wide area. Need to allow feeder roots to be exposed maybe at this point I think.

Just cutting ditches should help move water away and allow the roots to breathe. Still plenty of time for them to grow I think. Hold and umbrella for them if you have to. :smoke:
 

Old Piney

Well-known member
A few pictures of Afghani I got in the ground this season , these are Afghani#1x Hindu Kush f2 The Afghani#1 parent I originally purchased from either the seed bank or sssc back in 86 and the Hindu Kush Sensi seed in 93. The one plant has an extra row of leaflets on the leaves. Also a picture of Moroccan Beldia male started the last week in May ,pictured t Jul 15. it's just crazy early. All the Baldia girl are just starting to show as well
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40degsouth

Well-known member
Hey everyone,
It’s great to see some new members posting and some of our more well known friends sharing too.
Just something to consider, if you are in a country that isn’t legal, remember to turn your location settings off when your taking photos you intend to post; you can give away your geographic information 😉😉
I’ve been busy splitting up and planting, wasabi pups and doing some propagation trials, now I’ve started increasing the numbers. I’ve been carrying in a cubic yard of soil every two days, in my pack, which I actually quite enjoy, to top up the beds.
In a way I’ve created a rod for my own back but looking at it in another way, I’ve future proofed food production for myself for the foreseeable future; so while fuel and major inputs are relatively cheap and I’m physically fit enough to do the work, l do it for my fitness, even all though it is a bit more expensive than gym membership.
That’s a crazy disease Thereverand, it’s almost like the plant’s pulling potassium out of the leaves to relocate it where it’s needed, possibly in the roots or even the exudates, to promote a healthier/more beneficial rhizosphere.
What are your thoughts on it???
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pipeline

Cannabotanist
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Getting more storms this afternoon. The smokey haze seemed to be clearing this afternoon and was replaced by sunshine and clouds. Oppressive heat and humidity increased this afternoon. When you sweat that much, you know the air is charged for a thunderstorm. Had some good storms pop up, so about to go out to make sure they're still standing.

Soil will be charged with moisture. Watered on Fri, so thats a little water halfway though the week. Thank you Lord! Thats perfect for summer time! These are going to get moving in the next couple weeks! :smoke:

Pine Tar Kush--- slower inbred line, at least we get seed from them. Going to kind of restrict air flow. Almost want to pull some of the smaller ones. I already pulled the 1 footer.

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Pine Tar Kush
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Deep Chunk x Blueberry females
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Deep Chunk x Blueberry females

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Sterling Skunk IBL---Purple coloration is a harmless mutation, curious what it will end up looking like. 2 of the Sterling Skunks have this purple irregular coloration! Kaleb said there are some official skunky terpenes in the line! :smoke:

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Sterling Skunk IBL

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Paradise Cheese x Hindu Kush female beginning flowering early!

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Paradise Cheese x Hindu Kush --smaller-- thought it was a skunk plant but looked at the tag

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Deep Chunk X Blueberry

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Paradise Cheese x Lebanese--cool lanky sativa

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Deep Chunk x Las Vegas Purple Kush x Hindu Kush

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DC x LVPK x HK

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DC x LVPK x HK

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DC x LVPK x HK

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Sativa Candy Chunk

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SCC
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SCC

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SCC Champion Male#1-- Very Large fan leaves about 1 ft wide! Good stamen production should drop by 1st week in August

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SCC Champion Male 2-- Slightly different morphology but still DC indica dominant. Stamen are a little more developed

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therevverend

Well-known member
Veteran
Glad the wilting disease went away! Wonder if its a verticillium or what it is. I think verticillium is the one that clogs the xylem and its usually fatal. What you had was probably a root infection and thats what i think I experienced in the past. I think the hot moist soil conditions can promote it if it doesn't have a chance to dry out. That was at the other plot, and haven't experienced it here.

I used to work the top of the soil with a hand shovel to scratch in the top dressing and this is when I noticed it pop up. Feeder roots are good and you don't want to injure them. I think I may have promoted the infection by injuring surface roots over and over, when the environment was becoming conducive to disease.

Planting late with large plants has lots of exposed and possibly stressed roots from beginning to be root bound. May have promoted the diesease. May be less issue if planted earlier with less stress on root tissues, and hopefully less disease.

I didn't know what it was, if it was field runoff causing pesticide contamination in my garden or disease. I moved the plot to the new garden, stopped working the soil before top ressing, and haven't had the issue again. The other spot had wet roots down a foot or so from all the field runoff. Roots health is the foundation of a healthy plant.

I'm very careful to use the same path through my garden for walking and watering. Compacting the feeder roots is one of the biggest mistakes a grower can make.
That’s a crazy disease Thereverand, it’s almost like the plant’s pulling potassium out of the leaves to relocate it where it’s needed, possibly in the roots or even the exudates, to promote a healthier/more beneficial rhizosphere.
Reading up on wilting diseases, the only way to be sure of the cause is lab testing. It looks like it's striping potassium from itself but it could be unable to transfer the potassium upwards from the roots. Using the borrowed potassium to feed the new growth? I'm listing everything I know about the disease. I like your train of thought @40degsouth because it could be a nutrient (or some other) problem instead of a pathogen. Maybe the soil has become anaerobic?

1. Always strikes in July
2. Plants are always in Veg
3. Some sections of the plants wilt, others are normal
4. The plant stops taking up nutrients and water
5. Almost never fatal; plant usually recovers although if it takes too long it reduces yield and quality substantially.
6. Often the large leaves and some of the smaller ones show necrosis, starting at the tips, from right to left. Right side most necrotic, left side not necrotic
7. Usually 1, sometime 2 plants will catch it. Rest of the garden, including plants right next to the diseased one, are vigorous and healthy.
8. It never happens in the same spot in the garden twice. Next year the plant in the same spot as the diseased one is healthy and shows no symptoms. While a plant in an entirely different part of the garden will get sick.
9. Starts after a few days of humid warm summer rain transitioning to hot and sunny. Watering makes it worse. Allowing the soil to completely dry will improve things and often the plant will recover.
10. The plant that is infected was previously healthy and vigorous
11. When I remove a diseased leaf and examine the petiole there is an obvious pale cuticle.
12. My soil is healthy with beneficial microbes and mycorrhizae.
13. My soil is predominately sandy not clay. It's almost perfect for cannabis, all it requires is organic matter.
A reasonable assumption is that something is causing the xylem to clog. The plant is unable to transfer nutrients and water between the leaves and roots. Either a pathogen or my sandy soil mixed with compost is smothering the roots? I may never figure this out.

Here's a picture from July 4th 2019, plant's hit hard but without the necrosis. It didn't fully recover, yield and quality wasn't the same.

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pipeline

Cannabotanist
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Veteran
Interesting problem. Glad its not becoming widespread. I think verticillium is the only one that can clog the xylem and it is quickly fatal because it generally affects the whole plant from what I remember.

Compacted roots was likely part of it when I had a similar yellowing a few years ago. Thanks for the reminder on not compacting soil to preserve feeder roots, I was walking up and down the garden this weekend trying to find males. Thankfully after a couple days, the water had soaked in, and the ground in my garden was pretty firm. I'm fairly light weight 150 or less and am very careful to use the same spots as much as possible or I distribute my weight so it is easier on the roots.
 

pipeline

Cannabotanist
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Because the wilting isn't occurring at the same location each year means it could possilbly be caused at least in part by an abiotic stress. May be involved in the regimen in growing/ transplanting. Are you doing any root pruning before transplant? How rootbound are they?

I would think using Revitalize at time of transplant would help.

 

therevverend

Well-known member
Veteran
Because the wilting isn't occurring at the same location each year means it could possilbly be caused at least in part by an abiotic stress. May be involved in the regimen in growing/ transplanting. Are you doing any root pruning before transplant? How rootbound are they?

I would think using Revitalize at time of transplant would help.

Forgot to include the information in my list. Sometimes a new transplant will wilt for a few days but it usually gets over it as soon as the root system develops. The worst ones are established plants that have been in the ground a month or more. For instance the plant this year has been in the ground since May, one of the first ones I stuck in the ground. They're large established plants with what should be an extensive healthy root system. I haven't dug up the roots and done an autopsy, I wonder if parts of the root system are becoming infected and dying.

I've used other Bacillus strains to control mildew and botrytis. I'm skeptical that any bacteria or fungus I could add would multiply and become dominate faster than the ones that are already dominate in the ground. The time of year this is happening the ground is rapidly warming. The heat and moisture could be causing the wrong microbes to multiply out of control until the soil dries out and the 'normal' ones take over again. But then we're back to making guesstimates....
 
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