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OUTDOOR GROWS 2023 -ANYTHING AND EVERYTHING EVERYWHERE-
- Thread starter therevverend
- Start date
24 hours after being put out and had 4 storms yesterday with heavy down pour. Wasn't expecting all that but today is gonna be 80f out so...
Eltitoguay
Well-known member
...Now speaking seriously: Do you really think looks more along a show line? ...To me it seems more like a line of work line (because of the size of the teeth, the straightness of the back, or the ease it has to climb and run); You can't know for sure, because he was abandoned as a teenager without (or after removing) his microchip (there is a "wave" of Malis and Working line German Shepherd abandonments here, currently...); but compare the picture of a typical "beauty contestant" with mine:
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Here’s Cookie.. she’s become molded into the couch at the moment
I love the short hair coats of this breed
It's not a clone. This plant was grown from seed.
That's the bitch of clones sometimes. It'll re-veg and snap out of it over the coming weeks. Just in time to go back into flowering again. It's actually not too far gone. I think you'll still get a decent yield but not as much as you'd get if it never freaked.
He's on instagram now mostly, still doing what he does. He's started a few seed lines, I've tried it, good stuff.
MOTHERLODE SEEDS
www.motherlodegardens.com
Yep OMRI approved. I get the Diamond K gypsum brand, 0-0-21.5 potassium magnesium sulfate 50 lbs for around $20. I mix it in the dirt as I plant right now and through the watering can during flower. Has the greatest effect on resin production and terpene and sweetness I've found. There's a grow warehouse near Portland OR that's stocked in several types of this super gypsum.
Diamond K Gypsum | KMS
diamondkgypsum.com
Here's the 0-0-50 high calcium type for $10.99! But if you can't drive there and pick it up you're looking at a monstrous shipping cost. Come to think of it I should use both kinds.
Diamond K Solution Grade Gypsum (50 Lb) - Grow Organic
State-of-the-art, high-purity mined gypsum. High solubility keep calcium and sulfur levels near the surface and available to plant roots and soil microbes.www.groworganic.com
I usually stop with the N by the 1st week of August, depending on how they look. Just water from the first or 2nd week of September on. The organic stuff I use has a delay, it keeps working for a week or two after I stop using it. Being sensitive to your plants, seeing when they need to be fertilized and when they don't is something you need to learn through experience. I have a friend who stops all N on Aug 1, all bloom on Sept 1. I never use these kind of 'absolutes' because every plant is different. But if you're new to growing it's useful because it's easy to remember. Can't ever get stuck in your ways, always need to keep trying new stuff and expanding your knowledge.
Eltitoguay
Well-known member
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St. Phatty
Active member
Where would we be without Water & Photo-synthesis ?
We'd be on a mostly lifeless planet.
We'd be on a mostly lifeless planet.
That's the bitch of clones sometimes. It'll re-veg and snap out of it over the coming weeks. Just in time to go back into flowering again. It's actually not too far gone. I think you'll still get a decent yield but not as much as you'd get if it never freaked.
He's on instagram now mostly, still doing what he does. He's started a few seed lines, I've tried it, good stuff.
MOTHERLODE SEEDS
Yep OMRI approved. I get the Diamond K gypsum brand, 0-0-21.5 potassium magnesium sulfate 50 lbs for around $20. I mix it in the dirt as I plant right now and through the watering can during flower. Has the greatest effect on resin production and terpene and sweetness I've found. There's a grow warehouse near Portland OR that's stocked in several types of this super gypsum.
Diamond K Gypsum | KMS
Here's the 0-0-50 high calcium type for $10.99! But if you can't drive there and pick it up you're looking at a monstrous shipping cost. Come to think of it I should use both kinds.
Diamond K Solution Grade Gypsum (50 Lb) - Grow Organic
State-of-the-art, high-purity mined gypsum. High solubility keep calcium and sulfur levels near the surface and available to plant roots and soil microbes.
I usually stop with the N by the 1st week of August, depending on how they look. Just water from the first or 2nd week of September on. The organic stuff I use has a delay, it keeps working for a week or two after I stop using it. Being sensitive to your plants, seeing when they need to be fertilized and when they don't is something you need to learn through experience. I have a friend who stops all N on Aug 1, all bloom on Sept 1. I never use these kind of 'absolutes' because every plant is different. But if you're new to growing it's useful because it's easy to remember. Can't ever get stuck in your ways, always need to keep trying new stuff and expanding your knowledge.
That seems like a pretty good timeline stopping N Aug 1 and Bloom Sept 1. Amount of available nitrogen to the plants depends on multiple factors. I just don't want to risk burning them when its getting near flower time. This is it for me besides some more slow release cottonseed meal and cow manure compost late July. Should be enough to keep them growing we'll see.
I would be careful with chicken manure too late though for sure!
Looks like we got a good half inch or so of rain at the garden today! I'll take that. I spread the fertilizer on when they were wet and the plants kind of got covered. Had to shake the granules off the growing points a little bit, but the rain should wash them off alright.
Need to go out and check to make sure they're all still standing. Would like to have seen more rain, but it was enough. Glad it didn't get washed away really, so it was about right!
Frog was still there, hope he's not too mad.
Shots from this weekend--
Filtered light in the late afternoon
Deep Chunk x Blueberry front, Pine Tar Kush back left, Early Skunk x Lebanese back right
BOG Sour Bubble
Paradise Cheese x Lebanese
Paradise Cheese x Hindu Kush
Canopy will be closing in soon.
Pine Tar Kush
Sativa Candy Chunk
Deep Chunk x Blueberry
Early Skunk x Lebanese
This is how we smoke it up! Found a couple less desirable of the indica phenotype. They were similar to the loud phenotype which has a little terpene hit but potency is very low and resin is not produced very high. Trying to figure out if its the growing methods or the genotype, could be a combination. It tastes almost as bad as hay like the past few years. Either way the seed doesn't make the cut for keepers.
May try to add more compost/fert in the fall or spring, and try some different fertilizer mixes, have to experiment a little bit. Could do a soil test like @OG_NoMan, but not sure if I am going that direction yet. Probably will once I see how good his garden grows!
A couple new views-- Sativa Candy Chunk section
Sativa Candy Chunk
Sativa Candy Chunk front half, Other side of the garden remaining plants
I agree, nice straight back and thick bone structure. After seeing more pics he's probably not a show line and he's beautiful. I would take a look at East German blood line pics. I really think thats what you have.
Didn't look too closely but the pic you had looked like american show line there are European show lines also.
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I have a prize purebread Dauschund. She may not be trained for the show, but she would win. She was the active one out of the litter and we got first choice. Still a crazy little active dog, but its like tortoise and the hare, she is a sleeper too.Some of the flowers that aren't as good could also just be from mold that was in a different part of the flower but affected the one you are testing. The drying process outdoors has to be done promptly when dry weather sets in and they should be cut up a little more probably.
I think there are great differences between the plants. Pulled another jar. Smoking on some of the Sativa Candy Chunk 'Cherry' keeper phenotype. Will go back and go through the other jar, but I'm getting tired of smoking bad flower and dumping out the pipe. Thats how it was the past couple years before last year's harvest. Have to keep taste testing though, it all has to be looked at.
Couple different views of the garden after the rain yesterday. Many of the plants are starting to show branching with growth beginning at the top nodes!
Several seedlings were laying over when I got there. I just use soil to mound around the base of the plants and get them to stand up. I try not to use stakes except when necessary. Plants were kind of heavy and leaning over from being wet, but they will perk up once they dry and see some sun. Some were still kind of covered in chicken manure and cottonseed meal, but they will be alright. I did my best to clean them off.
Got the garden fertilized, and plants stood up. I always just use soil to support the base of the plant if necessary instead of stakes to allow the plant to strengthen itself and develop a stronger stem.
Starting to see some new growth beginning at the upper nodes on several of these plants! These are going to pick up momentum in the next couple weeks!
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What date was it germinated? What photoperiod was it on while inside? I am trying to learn how to start indoors early, but I'm not wanting to risk early flowering!
May have to do with the photoperiod sensetivity of the strain, but did you do an acclimation period when first bringing it out?
What an oddball, not an Auto because it's regenerating but so photo-sensitive it's flowering as the days are getting longer. Once the switch flips it takes a long time to turn it back. This is common in the tropics, not so common in north temperate zones. Only seen it a couple of times. You can help it along by carefully removing some of the bracts. I'd leave a few of the bigger clusters and of course the leaves. Might be worthwhile crossing it with a long flowering strain to get something that triggers early.
That seems like a pretty good timeline stopping N Aug 1 and Bloom Sept 1. Amount of available nitrogen to the plants depends on multiple factors. I just don't want to risk burning them when its getting near flower time. This is it for me besides some more slow release cottonseed meal and cow manure compost late July. Should be enough to keep them growing we'll see.
I would be careful with chicken manure too late though for sure!
Yep it's a good general rule. My friend who always goes by it believes in fertilizing through the watering can. He'll do minimal top dressing and doesn't like to tuck much fertilizer in the soil. I believe he cuts his N too early, his leaves start to yellow by the end of August than he strips them all. Same with his bloom mix, he gives his last dose of bloom at the end of August right before they make their big push.
He always has nice sweet stoney smoke; he's a hell of a grower; one of the best. He errs on the side of caution which I can't fault. His stuff that finishes near the end of September is nearly perfect; his plants that finish in mid October would do better if he was more flexible.
The last couple years I've made a point of fertilizing to the plant as opposed as to the month. I've gotten better at reading the plants, at what point they naturally mine the chlorophyll and nutrients from the yellowing leaves, as opposed to simply running out of nutrients. And anticipating when the optimum time to hit them with the bloom mix is. You always want to be a week or two ahead because that's how long it takes the plant to metabolize what you give it.
Something like chicken manure, I'd be very careful using it past July 20th. I might use it as top dressing, that way I could rake it off if it's too much or doesn't break down fast enough. That's what's great about organic growing, it's forgiving of mistakes.
Thanks for the advice! Yeah its a balance between harvesting well flushed plants and having a crop underfertilized and stunted with lower potency. I figure I should have adequate phosphorous with the Chicken manure used at planting and this round. P is immobile unlike N and K, so it stays around. Chicken manure has 4% P. The cottonseed meal is all slow release N, but its at 6% so I don't want it to be releasing N too late, but I think it will be forgiving.
The Healthy Grow All Purpose Fertilzer which I use is chicken manure/feather meal/sulfate of magnesia has 0.3% quick release instead if 0.38% in the Composted Chicken Manure itself, so its less risk of burn. I thought about using it one more time in July, I have before. I will see how the plants respond this time, and using the low rate of the Healthy Grow, it may be good to give them a boost so they don't run out again. Cottonseed meal has no quick release N.
The Healthy Grow All Purpose Fertilzer which I use is chicken manure/feather meal/sulfate of magnesia has 0.3% quick release instead if 0.38% in the Composted Chicken Manure itself, so its less risk of burn. I thought about using it one more time in July, I have before. I will see how the plants respond this time, and using the low rate of the Healthy Grow, it may be good to give them a boost so they don't run out again. Cottonseed meal has no quick release N.
Companion planting cannabis with fruit trees. If you do it right, the cannabis may the one providing the shade! Great strains! Looking forward to the Sour Peach Rings!Hi all,
Cbg peyotes and Destroyers
Karma BA75Hz and melochi
Ojd SSSTN
Oldman gsc/ww90 and Sour Peach R.
Sweet blue SOL
Salu2
What is the Destroyer line? What is its genetic background? Herbe del Mont had a hybrid of Desroyer with Deep Chunk and Tom Hill Haze!
Dry as a bone and the turf is hard as rock
It wasnt intended to go out side it was actually for my last indoor grow. So it's pretty old actually. It was 20/4 for most of it's life. Then 18/6 for a few weeks then went outside. At the very beginning when it went outside we were close to 12hr of light but it makes no sense for it to do this now. For almoat 2 months we've be well over 14+ hr. We're around 17hr now
