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Tutorial Organics for Beginners

getstimulated

New member
DOH!

DOH!

getstimulated-
Yeah, your clones need to be WELL ROOTED before putting them into a mix with blood/bone/kelp. The nitrogen will kill young clones and seedlings.
Use plain LC's Mix for them.
Burn1

I've read the entire thread (sometime ago)... Totally forgot about that important detail. Thanks B1.

One more question... This plant seems to be doing poorly... Some leaves are on the dry side... Pretty dry to the touch... almost crispy... but still green. I see some discoloration. I'm a bit confused b/c this is the only plant showing these signs.

Temps: 77-79 (80 on a bad day)
Humidity: 39% ---> Is this too low? no higher then 42%, but mostly 39%
Watering: Every two - three days (using the finger in the soil method)

Leaves seem to be a tad bit lighter, but the veins remain green... I know this could mean a few things.... but why this plant only? Also, I've noticed the leaves curl downward in a claw like manner. I've read that this could be due to under watering or over watering. Using the finger/soil and run off method, I don't think I'm doing either... but I could be wrong.

Picts:
1.jpg
3.jpg

Soil seemed pretty dry... Once again, just this plant.. Didn't expect to water until tomorrow... But I gave it a tiny bit, just to see if it picks up.

? It's supposed to be a cheese.

Thanks for your time and assistance.
 

delerious

Active member
Are you saying you are only going to use plain LC's Mix with worm castings, molasses and kelp? If so, that won't work.
Follow the recipe if you want to be successful.
One cup worm castings to five gallons of water is plenty.
Burn1

Sorry I should've explained better. I'm asking if I have to dilute a compost tea made with EWC, molasses and kelp when using as a tea or as a foliar spray. I have the ingredients for LC's mix #2 and I'll be adding Blood, Bone, and Kelp meals with Greensand and Liquid Karma to the soil mix - I was going to use just the plain LC Mix for seeds/seedlings unless I should be using the mix with the ferts right off the bat.

Thanks
 

Absolut

Active member
If you guys can believe it I've read this entire thread!!

Chock full of great info and methods.

After reading thru the thread I've decided to use LC mix #1 with recipe #3 (guano/kelp tea).

However recipe #1 looks promising too. I'm still leaning towards recipe 3 but can't decide for sure.

Personally I want to grow using ingredients that are as natural as possible and processed as little as possible. Still a little weary of using Liquid Karma. Don't really want to use any bottled nutes if possible but after hearing such great results from LK I just might have to bite the bullet.

So after reading thru, I still want to clarify some things.

Using LC mix #1 and recipe #3 (tea)

1. Mix LC mix #1 according to post. Sativas prefer a ratio of 4/4/2 (no need to cook LC mix)
2. Bubble teas around 75-80* F for 24-48 hrs.
3. Feed seedlings and clones EWC tea (1 cup EWC + 5 TBS molasses per 5 Gal.)
4. Feed vegging and mothers the Veg tea every 3rd watering.
5. Feed flowering the Flower tea for every watering. (In the 1st 2 weeks of flowering, plant may need extra Nitrogen)
6. Water with EWC tea for the last 2 weeks. Somewhere here someone said to use only high P guano tea to feed. Need confirmation on what's best.
7. Don't let soil get too dry b/c dolomite lime only works when wet.

Now I have some questions:
a) For the every veg/mother watering that does not get the 'Veg tea' do I still use the EWC tea in between 3rd waterings?
b) If I were to use recipe #1, which requires only 'plain' water, would I still use EWC tea? I saw that Burn1 said he uses EWC tea anytime water is used.
c) Being a total beginner, what strains do well indoors using recipe #1 or 3 with little to no adjustments? Pest and disease resistant is also important.
d) I assume the LC mixes don't benefit from 'cooking' b/c there are no microbes in it right?
 

BurnOne

No damn given.
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Sorry I should've explained better. I'm asking if I have to dilute a compost tea made with EWC, molasses and kelp when using as a tea or as a foliar spray. I have the ingredients for LC's mix #2 and I'll be adding Blood, Bone, and Kelp meals with Greensand and Liquid Karma to the soil mix - I was going to use just the plain LC Mix for seeds/seedlings unless I should be using the mix with the ferts right off the bat.

Thanks

Don't dilute your tea. Wait two to four weeks before transplanting seedlings into mix with blood/bone/kelp.

If you guys can believe it I've read this entire thread!!

Chock full of great info and methods.

After reading thru the thread I've decided to use LC mix #1 with recipe #3 (guano/kelp tea).

However recipe #1 looks promising too. I'm still leaning towards recipe 3 but can't decide for sure.

Personally I want to grow using ingredients that are as natural as possible and processed as little as possible. Still a little weary of using Liquid Karma. Don't really want to use any bottled nutes if possible but after hearing such great results from LK I just might have to bite the bullet.

So after reading thru, I still want to clarify some things.

Using LC mix #1 and recipe #3 (tea)

1. Mix LC mix #1 according to post. Sativas prefer a ratio of 4/4/2 (no need to cook LC mix)
2. Bubble teas around 75-80* F for 24-48 hrs.
3. Feed seedlings and clones EWC tea (1 cup EWC + 5 TBS molasses per 5 Gal.)
4. Feed vegging and mothers the Veg tea every 3rd watering.
5. Feed flowering the Flower tea for every watering. (In the 1st 2 weeks of flowering, plant may need extra Nitrogen)
6. Water with EWC tea for the last 2 weeks. Somewhere here someone said to use only high P guano tea to feed. Need confirmation on what's best.
7. Don't let soil get too dry b/c dolomite lime only works when wet.

Now I have some questions:
a) For the every veg/mother watering that does not get the 'Veg tea' do I still use the EWC tea in between 3rd waterings?
b) If I were to use recipe #1, which requires only 'plain' water, would I still use EWC tea? I saw that Burn1 said he uses EWC tea anytime water is used.
c) Being a total beginner, what strains do well indoors using recipe #1 or 3 with little to no adjustments? Pest and disease resistant is also important.
d) I assume the LC mixes don't benefit from 'cooking' b/c there are no microbes in it right?

a) Yes.
b) Yes.
c) Any strain will work. Nothing is disease and pest resistant.
d) LC's Mix is Full of microbes. No need to cook it. Bone meal is the only thing that needs to be "cooked".

Burn1
 

Absolut

Active member
Thanks a lot B1!

Hopefully the stores around here carry all the ingredients.

So why is recipe 3 your favorite? Is it b/c you can adjust the mix according to the plants needs?
 

getstimulated

New member
Anyone?

Anyone?

I've read the entire thread (sometime ago)... Totally forgot about that important detail. Thanks B1.

One more question... This plant seems to be doing poorly... Some leaves are on the dry side... Pretty dry to the touch... almost crispy... but still green. I see some discoloration. I'm a bit confused b/c this is the only plant showing these signs.

Temps: 77-79 (80 on a bad day)
Humidity: 39% ---> Is this too low? no higher then 42%, but mostly 39%
Watering: Every two - three days (using the finger in the soil method)

Leaves seem to be a tad bit lighter, but the veins remain green... I know this could mean a few things.... but why this plant only? Also, I've noticed the leaves curl downward in a claw like manner. I've read that this could be due to under watering or over watering. Using the finger/soil and run off method, I don't think I'm doing either... but I could be wrong.

Picts:
View attachment 23078
View attachment 23079

Soil seemed pretty dry... Once again, just this plant.. Didn't expect to water until tomorrow... But I gave it a tiny bit, just to see if it picks up.

? It's supposed to be a cheese.

Thanks for your time and assistance.

Maybe I should move this to the infirmary... ?

However, if anyone has any ideas I'd appreciate it.. Here's an updated pict..

The leaf is extremely dry...and extremely brittle. I can't tell what the blotches mean. See pict..
4.jpg

:(
 

getstimulated

New member
Hey.. I'm getting kinda desperate here.. I self diagnosed and went with heat issues? Dunno how or why b/c my temps were low, but I know the air circulation wasn't the best... So I moved the light away a notch. I'm watching the blotchy plant.. No new blotches seem to be forming.. Hmm. ???

Now I see wrinkles on the leaves of a plant that was thriving (boy was it thriving).. The leaves are green, but wrinkles seem to be forming from the tips inward. No discoloration at this time.. I'm kinda confused. No time for a pict right now (maybe later), but ANY help would be grand. I just watered them b/c they were due for some plain water.

Also added a glass of water to the area to assist with humidity.. Thus far, it's been in the about 41-45%. Don't know if that matters.

Burnone - hey let me know if this is not the place.. I am a beginner, but I don't want to have bad board manners or anything. I could really use some help though..

I've been reading the sticky on plant problems.. If anyone knows of a better one online, please point me in the right direction.. The sticky is very thorough, but could use some better/more picts. Heat issues seemed to be the closest match in terms of picts..

Newb in distress... Trying to learn.
 

getstimulated

New member
Potassium Deficiency? Best way to treat with Kelp Meal and Greensand???

Potassium Deficiency? Best way to treat with Kelp Meal and Greensand???

Hello world, again. :)
How should I treat a potassium deficiency with kelp meal and greensand? MAke a tea? (The only thing is, I just watered yesterday...?)

OR -- put it in the soil?

The plant with picts seems to fit this description the best:

"Having to little of Potassium in your plants causes the plants leaves to show retarded growth and show a scorched tip and edges around the leaves. Plants may stretch and your branches can be easily broken or weak. Don’t get this deficiency confused with iron, because it almost acts like iron but to tell the difference in the two is: for potassium the tips of the leaves curl and the edges burn and die. Older leaves may show a red color and leaves could curl upwards. Dead patches (Necrosis) can happen on the margins of larger fan leaves thus, the leaves will eventually die off and turn brown. The Older leaves will show different patches of color (mottle) and turn yellow between the veins, following by whole leaves that turn dark yellow and die."
-- icmag guide in the infirmary

Also:
"When your Relative humidity is low, you can almost bet your going to soon get a potassium deficiency from your plants perspiration."

Well.. My humidity was in the 30's from time to time... Mostly overnight.

Am I off here? If not, how do I apply the kelp meal or greensand? Half the dosage as per product instructions?

Thanks..
 

maryjohn

Active member
Veteran
If it is k greensand is too slow. Kelp is better.

Or maybe potassium Bicarbonate?

For prevention There is a super easy product called bio tone, very convenient. Check your garden center. It's got kelp, greensand, mycos, etc... I use that plus extra kelp meal raked into the surface.
 

getstimulated

New member
Biotone - How much per 3 gallon pot?

Biotone - How much per 3 gallon pot?

If it is k greensand is too slow. Kelp is better.

Or maybe potassium Bicarbonate?

For prevention There is a super easy product called bio tone, very convenient. Check your garden center. It's got kelp, greensand, mycos, etc... I use that plus extra kelp meal raked into the surface.

Thank you. I will look for that today. Plant is in bad shape.. I'm assuming I must act fast... How much Biotone should I use per 3 gallon pot? Should I follow the package instructions or change any dosage?

Still vegging.
 

maryjohn

Active member
Veteran
Sometimes I follow the package but sometimes I confess I just use my hands. This is not harsh stuff.

I also sprinkle some in the hole before transplant.
 

getstimulated

New member
Cool :)

Cool :)

Sometimes I follow the package but sometimes I confess I just use my hands. This is not harsh stuff.

I also sprinkle some in the hole before transplant.

REad the companies product page. Nice. Sorry for so many questions.. It's just that I can see changes in the plant daily and according to the plant problems guide, the leaves will never recover, etc.... So, I'm trying to get it right in hopes of preventing further damage. With that said...

Can I use this as a top dress? And, if so, would it be safe to water again? (Just watered yesterday)..

OR -

Do I have to mix the Biotone in with the soil and transplant?
 

getstimulated

New member
Also... I should have asked if I can use any of the stuff I have... Here's what I have on hand:
- Bone Meal... (based on all I've read in this read, this is not applicable)
- Blood Meal
- Kelp Meal
- Greensand
- LK
- Molasses

I also have some Bio Grow and Bio Bloom... and Bio Genesis (Mineral Matrix).. I have yet to use any of these... I was hoping to keep it organic, literally. I know these products are labeled organic, but...Eh..

But desperate times call for desperate measures!
 

maryjohn

Active member
Veteran
Biotone would not be a useful top dressing IMO.

I am biased. I don't tend to fix soil problems but rather start over, repot, wait til next year, etc...

Habeeb seems to be good at fixing things.
 

Absolut

Active member
It would be great to get some hands on some real venus fly traps for pest control.

I want to use ladybugs and praying mantis to control my pest pop.
 

maryjohn

Active member
Veteran
I keep many different drosera. They catch more bugs than fly traps.

Google carnivorous plants there are a few mail order spots. Get bare root plants. I use a 50-50 peat perlite/sand mix.

They can't grow in the same soil as cannabis and they need RO or Distilled water or they die.
 
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