Here are those pics of how bad it looks now. To me it just looks like a bad mag problem possibly locked out if so idk why. This morning I topped with ewc and watered with the flowering tea. I added the ewc to add more organic matter to hopefully help balance things out. I'm gonna try and stick with her unless she starts throwing male pollen sacks from all the stress. If that happens I'll chop her so I don't risk my other girls
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Tutorial Organics for Beginners
- Thread starter BurnOne
- Start date
Sure looks like an iron induced manganese deficiency. Kind of goes along with what you have been doing. All that OM, depending on where you are, is full of iron. MJ needs a lot of Mn. Most soils don't have much and then many folk just keep dumping on worm castings, etc. whose chemical profile always imitates where it was produced. Thus if you are in an area where there is no Mn, you just make things worse dumping on more and more OM.
Why one plant more so than others? More Mg in the soil causes things to start building up and not allowing for drainage. Also, the weak plant gets more of everything too.
Do you see light interveinal chlorosis on the older leaves?
I would try some gypsum real quick and see what you can find with some Mn in it.
Or you could stop guessing and just send a sample to the lab real quick so you can learn from this and not have the problem again.
Well they don't look any worse today so far. I'm using lc's mix #1 and recipe #3. Ya I have 5 kush plants and not one looks like this. Well they did have a magnesium problem in Veg. I sprayed them with epsom salt at the same time I sprayed the cheese hybrid and problem solved on all the kush plants. The kush all looks green and healthy I haven't done anything different all plants have recieved the same treatment. This is the first time I added more organic matter and I only added it to the cheese because I read if it was a lockout it could help balance things out... I do seem to have alot of magnesium problems that I'm noticing more and more. I think it's my Ag lime. It's 30 something percent calcium and only 3 percent magnesium. Ag lime is all the hydro store had and they said it was pretty much the same but I now know dolomite is 22% calcium and 11% magnesium. I'm learning slowly just the hard way. I'm determined to get it down and not go back to bottled nutes
Mg deficiencies are usually due to high K or low P. Apply epsoms a couple of times should do it.
Send in a soil sample and stop fighting with your soil. It becomes a road map.
Getting lime available to an annual is nearly impossible. You must use Ca nitrate, gypsum and even dried milk.
Send in a soil sample and stop fighting with your soil. It becomes a road map.
Getting lime available to an annual is nearly impossible. You must use Ca nitrate, gypsum and even dried milk.
not selling product but mantra, a defective one
soil should be tested by plants in the local environment and the best way to do that is to grow in it and adjust based on cultivar deficiencies this way all environmental variables are in play
regardless of methodology these are the results when you master coming in on the underfeed
as far as LOS my containers are in the 3rd year going on 12th or so recycle and so far still preforming, I attribute my success to a wealth of microbiology which is sustainable because I haven't put too much of anything it to keep from making an imbalance that can't be remediated.
los
transitional
chem
no environmental controls and nothing but a ph meter
none of my transitional or chem grows ever used the same method twice nor did I follow a magic recipe
came in soft and just adjusted as needed
20 plus years of at least 4 crops a year has given me a ton of data that runs counter to what so many people preach
and in all those years I never lost a crop, not boasting, hate to jinx myself but just saying that the notion of perfect is defective
has everyone who did a soil test and used minerals in the soil gotten perfect results?
none of my transitional or chem grows ever used the same method twice nor did I follow a magic recipe
came in soft and just adjusted as needed
20 plus years of at least 4 crops a year has given me a ton of data that runs counter to what so many people preach
and in all those years I never lost a crop, not boasting, hate to jinx myself but just saying that the notion of perfect is defective
has everyone who did a soil test and used minerals in the soil gotten perfect results?
Everyone on this board that has gotten their soil analysis done and followed the simple fixes, ALL got results.
If someone is writing about their problems and you change everything every time, you want everyone to be like you?
That is funny.
Nothing is perfect, but going in the opposite direction can easily be remedied.
What not prove me wrong and get a soil analysis done and then you tell us all how worthless it was in contrast to your years of guessing.
People are trying to learn. Some folks are not blessed with amazing soils or mediums much less good water.
I have been at this for more than 30 years, maybe, just maybe you could learn something! I don't pretend to know everything and am extremely open to learning. Just not sure what you are trying to teach.
bucketswithsoil
support your local surfboard builder...
Yoazzzer just peeped ya albums. .very impressive weird....
that before there were soil tests people where using observation and logic to achieve like results
this is because the ideal of perfection is faulty, nature is always in flux there is no such thing as a perfect static approach
and finally that in any equation where you are cultivating an organism that biologically being under stimulated (malnutrition) is simply addressed without a detriment to future growth where in over stimulation of environmental variables causes detriment to the organisms that limits full potential
in gardening that means coming in just a bit under known requirements really isn't a detriment it simply lets you read your plants closely and make adjustments based on their specific needs in that environment when exposed to those conditions
a hungry garden IS a healthy garden unless you neglect it unreasonably or don't know how to address feed issues by site using the various methods
I know it has been working fine for me for some time
what it really boils down to is greed
people want to guarantee results so badly they go overboard and beat the shit out of their plants
they never say hey let me come in slow and work up slowly and see how things turn out
they are too worried about the balance sheet
Mike Metzner mr universe won training minimally because he understood the same concept
if you stress an organism within the spectrum of healthy stress it thrives more if you expose it to negative stress it breaks down and takes longer to recover if it even can
my secret all these years is simply come in light
I have plenty of 2-4 oz per gallon of soil organically fed plants in artificial light and no environmental controls
imagine outdoors where getting numbers like that and I am working in inferior conditions with inferior materials
people want to guarantee results so badly they go overboard and beat the shit out of their plants
they never say hey let me come in slow and work up slowly and see how things turn out
they are too worried about the balance sheet
Mike Metzner mr universe won training minimally because he understood the same concept
if you stress an organism within the spectrum of healthy stress it thrives more if you expose it to negative stress it breaks down and takes longer to recover if it even can
my secret all these years is simply come in light
I have plenty of 2-4 oz per gallon of soil organically fed plants in artificial light and no environmental controls
imagine outdoors where getting numbers like that and I am working in inferior conditions with inferior materials
Weird,
So what do I do if I have a very unbalanced soil, that is full of iron, full of carbonates, pH 8.3, no zinc, no manganese, no boron?
And what if the whole area is like that?
How would You manage it, what do you consider a sustainable source?
You don't buy anything for your grow?
Haha not real sustainable those 5 gal pails of questionable quality plastic or running lights and growing indoors either. Where is the line?
Seriously.
Assuming outdoors and a non-wealthy farmer gardener, begin by planting mustard which grows anywhere, phytoremediates soil and bioaccumulates sulfur and phosphorus which after chopped, dropped and lightly disked will begin lowering pH. Apply diluted black strap molasses to degrade the stubble by stimulating soil microorganisms. If affordable apply EM fermentations (AEM) for the same reason.
Then plant rapeseed which does pretty much the same but with a slightly different effect on the soil and then sunflowers for a first crop (also phytoremediates soil and adds S) but chop and disk the bulk of the plant, repeating applications of molasses and or AEM. Disk in some creek bed sand/gravel of various colors - pea gravel. Apply topdressed compost or vermicompost if available. Topdress with ramial woodchips (free from hydro-line crews).
Then plant asparagus (perennials good for 20+ years), pole beans, broccoli, cauliflower, brussel sprouts, cabbage, cantaloupe, spinach, squash, sunflowers (again) and tomatoes as desired interdispersed with red clover (perennial 20 years plus provision of N+). All these plants are durable and tolerate high pH. You can occasionally use CT (when plants growing) and AEM (in fall & spring).
Within 2 years chances are you'll have a healthy living soil at 6.4 to 7.0 pH. This should open up alternative crop species.
Also allow overwintering by livestock/wild animals if appropriate to growing zone.
How would that bring in Zn MN and B into
The picture? Transmutation?
I understand how it brings the pH down and makes other things available but how can it make something out of nothing?
The picture? Transmutation?
I understand how it brings the pH down and makes other things available but how can it make something out of nothing?
The accumulators bring in S, P, and minor Ca, Mn, Zn. The creek bed sand/gravel brings in major amounts of B as well as a wide spectrum of macro + micro nutrients slow released over many years. The ramial chips provide a wide spectrum of macro/micro nutrients as well, also slow released over many years. These are just minor components, the real delivery machine is the organism-microbial machine of living soil. AEM in its own magic if it has high enough levels of PNSBs. The clover provides N indefinitely.
Once the bugs n' worms get there, the party keeps going on.
Once upon a time, many of our neighbors farmed with mineral prescriptions every year until the year came that the prices went so high nobody could afford the inputs. At the same time, the rains stopped. That year we got the same yield from 6 acres as our neighbor got from 200 acres.
I'm not a big believer in areas which are completely devoid of sufficient nutrients to grow healthy (& nutritious) plants. I mean we can't overlook what happens historically when old river valleys in deserts get irrigated. We cannot think of the plant as a sponge soaking up nutrients from dirt that supports it and happens to have what someone tells you are the correct chemical conditions.
That's my take anyway. Some will; some won't.
brown_thumb
Active member
Six vs. two hundred acres? Umm. Never mind...
River gravel.... Stoner me missed that part.
Sounds just like the first few chapters of " a biodynamic farming" by Hugh Lovel.
Sounds just like the first few chapters of " a biodynamic farming" by Hugh Lovel.
A nobel winning scientist suggesting dredging agro run off waste as a source opposed to mining
it is about working gracefully within an ecosystems mineral cycle not rebuilding nature around the only one you know
the size and scale myth is used to perpetuate age old practices that revolve around munitions excess
the extra nitrogen from bombs was found to make plants green and that is how the chem agro movement got started
