G
Guest
Nice buds unicorn!
-
ICMag with help from Phlizon, Landrace Warden and The Vault is running a NEW contest for Christmas! You can check it here. Prizes are: full spectrum led light, seeds & forum premium access. Come join in!
G
Guest
Pretty hairy arm though.
G
Guest
pi-ball i believe is the terminology...without pigment...another week of flushing and then there done
Nutrients (nitrogen, phosphores, potassium, calcium, magnesium, boron, magnenese, etc) are taken up by plants by the roots. To facilitate this, the nutrients must be dissolved in water after which the cells of the plant roots take up nutrients by a process called osmosis which is simply the diffusion of water across a (cell) membrane.
The only molecules these cell membranes allow to pass are very small molecules, like water molecules (H20) and small molecules of individual fertilizer nutrients such as Calcium (Ca), Magnesium (Mg), Nitrate (NO3), etc.
The way it works is very simple. Take table salt as example. Sodium chloride (table salt) NaCI, consist of two molecules, Na (sodium) and CI (Chloride). Together they form the well known white chrystalized form we see in the salt shaker. When placed into water, the two negatively charged hydrogen atoms of the water molecules will surround the positively charged Sodium (Na) molecule and literally pull it apart from the Negatively charged Chloride (CI) molecule which will attach itself to the positively charged Oxygen molecules found in water (Water = H20, e.g. 1 oxygen + 2 hydrogen molecules).
What you end up with is two individual compounds: Na and Ci each sourrounded by water molecules. These molecules can now pass through the cell membrances and into the roots. In it's complex form NaCI the sodium chloride molecule could not be taken up by the roots, but as Sodium and Chloride seperately they are taken up by the roots.
In similar manner, the plants can not use organic fertilizers (NH2) as the molecules are too large and complex and further, these molecules are not easily dissolved in water (e.g. their composition do not lend themselves to be seperated by the hydrogen and oxygen molecules of water).
Thus be able to pass into the plants via the cell membranes, first the microbacterial life (microbes) in the soil must convert the organic nitrogen into inorganic nitrogen (ammonium, or NH4). Ammonium (NH4+) can be taken up by the plants, and a fair amount does, but other microbes in the soil continue to decomposition process and convert ammonium (NH4+) into nitrates (NO3-) which are also taken up by the roots.
Synthetic fertilizers typically have the nitrogen in the ammonium and/or nitrates forms. If a fair amount is in nitrate forms, the uptake into the plant is rapid, even in cold soils. In warmer soil, the level of nitrates are less critical and ammonium form fertilizers are quite acceptable.
The key point to understand here: organic fertilizer is never taken up by the plants. organic fertilizers are first converted into inorganic fertilizer by the microbes in the soil and it is these inorganic fertilizer nutrients which are then taken up by the roots after being dissolved in water.
One could theorize that plants grown primarily with organic fertilizers are also grown in better soil ?
E.g. say the organic fertilizer was composted manure, adding this as fertilizer would also act as soil improvement at the same time. This alone could improve the quality of some plants especially those liking a soil with high organic matter (OM). Soil with good organic matter often have a higher CEC (caption exchange capacity) which is an important factor when you consider fertilization. High CEC soils can hold on to - and exchange - individual fertilizer nutrients with plants more easily and thus is capable of feeding the plants more consistently over a long period of time. Water holding capacity of soil with good organic content is often higher, too, which improves the final product.
Soil can be improved with organic matter by mixing in peatmoss sphagnum, compost, vermicompost, etc and then continue to use synthetic fertilizers.
You could theorize that the adding of an organic fertilizer, like composted manure, actually improved the organic matter content (OM) of the soil and this, not the organic vs synthetic fertilizer, improved the result ?
Another thing which could the reason.. adding an organic fertilizer would result in a gradual feeding of the plants as the organic nitrogen was gradually converted to synthetic nitrogen. You can further theorize that the organic fertilizer (which is converted faster in warm soil and slower in cool soil) may have suited the growth habit of the produce . If this is the case, and the inorganic fertilizer was not added gradually and in doses which suited the plants, then it is the feeding process itself (e.g. the dosing amount) which is the cause of the change .. not the type of fertilizer used.
An experienced grower would use a high nitrate fertilizer in cool whether (when microbacterial life is limited) and switch to an ammonium based fertilizer as the weather warms up. If an inexperienced grower fed the plants with high ammonium early in the season this could lead to ammonium toxicity which could explain a difference in result. For example, popular home growers choices like osmocote 14-14-14 and miracle grow 15-30-15 contain a very high percentage of the nitrogen in ammonium (and urea which is converted into ammonium) form.
To say for sure if there IS truly any difference in the choice of organic vs inorganic fertilizer you would have to provide the two types of fertilizers to two test groups: experienced as well as inexperienced growers and have them run dual tests using both fertilizer types.
In my opinion, there is no difference feeding produce or any other plant with organic vs inorganic fertilizer.
The organic fertilizer may meet recycling goals and also meet individual ethical goals of grower. They may also provide for automatic addition of organic matter to the soil (would require a fertilizer like manure used and not just liquid fish fertilizer for example). The organic fertilizers may also make dosing easier, feeding more gradual and thus meet specific plant preferences.
Inorganic fertilizers are often cheaper, they contain nutrients which are readily available and which work in poor soils, in low temperatures, and which does not require microbacterial life to convert them. Some people prefer inorganic fertilizers to hauling manure in their private cars, and the same people may appreciate buying inorganic factory produced fertilizers which has created local jobs as opposed to organic kelp fertilizers which may have been harvested using techniques which destoyed marine life...
it is impossible to give the explanation for preferences. it is almost certain, however, that the plants don't care much. they can only take up inorganic nutrients to begin with.
Note: the most common organic fertilizer in the world: UREA is often considered 'inorganic' or 'artificial' (chemical) by the organic community. This is often because it is produced in factories as opposed to being 'recycled' from plant or animal matter. However, it does contain carbon and thus is organic according to the true definition of organic.
Nutrients (nitrogen, phosphores, potassium, calcium, magnesium, boron, magnenese, etc) are taken up by plants by the roots. To facilitate this, the nutrients must be dissolved in water after which the cells of the plant roots take up nutrients by a process called osmosis which is simply the diffusion of water across a (cell) membrane.
The only molecules these cell membranes allow to pass are very small molecules, like water molecules (H20) and small molecules of individual fertilizer nutrients such as Calcium (Ca), Magnesium (Mg), Nitrate (NO3), etc.
The way it works is very simple. Take table salt as example. Sodium chloride (table salt) NaCI, consist of two molecules, Na (sodium) and CI (Chloride). Together they form the well known white chrystalized form we see in the salt shaker. When placed into water, the two negatively charged hydrogen atoms of the water molecules will surround the positively charged Sodium (Na) molecule and literally pull it apart from the Negatively charged Chloride (CI) molecule which will attach itself to the positively charged Oxygen molecules found in water (Water = H20, e.g. 1 oxygen + 2 hydrogen molecules).
What you end up with is two individual compounds: Na and Ci each sourrounded by water molecules. These molecules can now pass through the cell membrances and into the roots. In it's complex form NaCI the sodium chloride molecule could not be taken up by the roots, but as Sodium and Chloride seperately they are taken up by the roots.
In similar manner, the plants can not use organic fertilizers (NH2) as the molecules are too large and complex and further, these molecules are not easily dissolved in water (e.g. their composition do not lend themselves to be seperated by the hydrogen and oxygen molecules of water).
Thus be able to pass into the plants via the cell membranes, first the microbacterial life (microbes) in the soil must convert the organic nitrogen into inorganic nitrogen (ammonium, or NH4). Ammonium (NH4+) can be taken up by the plants, and a fair amount does, but other microbes in the soil continue to decomposition process and convert ammonium (NH4+) into nitrates (NO3-) which are also taken up by the roots.
Synthetic fertilizers typically have the nitrogen in the ammonium and/or nitrates forms. If a fair amount is in nitrate forms, the uptake into the plant is rapid, even in cold soils. In warmer soil, the level of nitrates are less critical and ammonium form fertilizers are quite acceptable.
The key point to understand here: organic fertilizer is never taken up by the plants. organic fertilizers are first converted into inorganic fertilizer by the microbes in the soil and it is these inorganic fertilizer nutrients which are then taken up by the roots after being dissolved in water.
One could theorize that plants grown primarily with organic fertilizers are also grown in better soil ?
E.g. say the organic fertilizer was composted manure, adding this as fertilizer would also act as soil improvement at the same time. This alone could improve the quality of some plants especially those liking a soil with high organic matter (OM). Soil with good organic matter often have a higher CEC (caption exchange capacity) which is an important factor when you consider fertilization. High CEC soils can hold on to - and exchange - individual fertilizer nutrients with plants more easily and thus is capable of feeding the plants more consistently over a long period of time. Water holding capacity of soil with good organic content is often higher, too, which improves the final product.
Soil can be improved with organic matter by mixing in peatmoss sphagnum, compost, vermicompost, etc and then continue to use synthetic fertilizers.
You could theorize that the adding of an organic fertilizer, like composted manure, actually improved the organic matter content (OM) of the soil and this, not the organic vs synthetic fertilizer, improved the result ?
Another thing which could the reason.. adding an organic fertilizer would result in a gradual feeding of the plants as the organic nitrogen was gradually converted to synthetic nitrogen. You can further theorize that the organic fertilizer (which is converted faster in warm soil and slower in cool soil) may have suited the growth habit of the produce . If this is the case, and the inorganic fertilizer was not added gradually and in doses which suited the plants, then it is the feeding process itself (e.g. the dosing amount) which is the cause of the change .. not the type of fertilizer used.
An experienced grower would use a high nitrate fertilizer in cool whether (when microbacterial life is limited) and switch to an ammonium based fertilizer as the weather warms up. If an inexperienced grower fed the plants with high ammonium early in the season this could lead to ammonium toxicity which could explain a difference in result. For example, popular home growers choices like osmocote 14-14-14 and miracle grow 15-30-15 contain a very high percentage of the nitrogen in ammonium (and urea which is converted into ammonium) form.
To say for sure if there IS truly any difference in the choice of organic vs inorganic fertilizer you would have to provide the two types of fertilizers to two test groups: experienced as well as inexperienced growers and have them run dual tests using both fertilizer types.
In my opinion, there is no difference feeding produce or any other plant with organic vs inorganic fertilizer.
The organic fertilizer may meet recycling goals and also meet individual ethical goals of grower. They may also provide for automatic addition of organic matter to the soil (would require a fertilizer like manure used and not just liquid fish fertilizer for example). The organic fertilizers may also make dosing easier, feeding more gradual and thus meet specific plant preferences.
Inorganic fertilizers are often cheaper, they contain nutrients which are readily available and which work in poor soils, in low temperatures, and which does not require microbacterial life to convert them. Some people prefer inorganic fertilizers to hauling manure in their private cars, and the same people may appreciate buying inorganic factory produced fertilizers which has created local jobs as opposed to organic kelp fertilizers which may have been harvested using techniques which destoyed marine life...
it is impossible to give the explanation for preferences. it is almost certain, however, that the plants don't care much. they can only take up inorganic nutrients to begin with.
Note: the most common organic fertilizer in the world: UREA is often considered 'inorganic' or 'artificial' (chemical) by the organic community. This is often because it is produced in factories as opposed to being 'recycled' from plant or animal matter. However, it does contain carbon and thus is organic according to the true definition of organic.
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G
Grasso
Hello,
mad cow disease may be caused by phosphate compounds used for killing maggots (egg - maggot - puppet - fly) living in the shit and the backs of the cows. The prion story was made up as an excuse. Much of the medicine and bio sector is a scam. Galileo lied "for the greater cause", too. Although experiments lead to greater knowledge they change the subject of examination hence sacrifice a part of the world. Be careful with that axe, Eugene!
Uli
mad cow disease may be caused by phosphate compounds used for killing maggots (egg - maggot - puppet - fly) living in the shit and the backs of the cows. The prion story was made up as an excuse. Much of the medicine and bio sector is a scam. Galileo lied "for the greater cause", too. Although experiments lead to greater knowledge they change the subject of examination hence sacrifice a part of the world. Be careful with that axe, Eugene!
Uli
G
Guest
actually the plants around the property get my fertilizer leftovers
-Hg9. said:
G
Guest
and one more time for those who dont get it....here is your ass suby...im a little slow sorry it took so long
Nutrients (nitrogen, phosphores, potassium, calcium, magnesium, boron, magnenese, etc) are taken up by plants by the roots. To facilitate this, the nutrients must be dissolved in water after which the cells of the plant roots take up nutrients by a process called osmosis which is simply the diffusion of water across a (cell) membrane.
The only molecules these cell membranes allow to pass are very small molecules, like water molecules (H20) and small molecules of individual fertilizer nutrients such as Calcium (Ca), Magnesium (Mg), Nitrate (NO3), etc.
The way it works is very simple. Take table salt as example. Sodium chloride (table salt) NaCI, consist of two molecules, Na (sodium) and CI (Chloride). Together they form the well known white chrystalized form we see in the salt shaker. When placed into water, the two negatively charged hydrogen atoms of the water molecules will surround the positively charged Sodium (Na) molecule and literally pull it apart from the Negatively charged Chloride (CI) molecule which will attach itself to the positively charged Oxygen molecules found in water (Water = H20, e.g. 1 oxygen + 2 hydrogen molecules).
What you end up with is two individual compounds: Na and Ci each sourrounded by water molecules. These molecules can now pass through the cell membrances and into the roots. In it's complex form NaCI the sodium chloride molecule could not be taken up by the roots, but as Sodium and Chloride seperately they are taken up by the roots.
In similar manner, the plants can not use organic fertilizers (NH2) as the molecules are too large and complex and further, these molecules are not easily dissolved in water (e.g. their composition do not lend themselves to be seperated by the hydrogen and oxygen molecules of water).
Thus be able to pass into the plants via the cell membranes, first the microbacterial life (microbes) in the soil must convert the organic nitrogen into inorganic nitrogen (ammonium, or NH4). Ammonium (NH4+) can be taken up by the plants, and a fair amount does, but other microbes in the soil continue to decomposition process and convert ammonium (NH4+) into nitrates (NO3-) which are also taken up by the roots.
Synthetic fertilizers typically have the nitrogen in the ammonium and/or nitrates forms. If a fair amount is in nitrate forms, the uptake into the plant is rapid, even in cold soils. In warmer soil, the level of nitrates are less critical and ammonium form fertilizers are quite acceptable.
The key point to understand here: organic fertilizer is never taken up by the plants. organic fertilizers are first converted into inorganic fertilizer by the microbes in the soil and it is these inorganic fertilizer nutrients which are then taken up by the roots after being dissolved in water.One could theorize that plants grown primarily with organic fertilizers are also grown in better soil ?
Nutrients (nitrogen, phosphores, potassium, calcium, magnesium, boron, magnenese, etc) are taken up by plants by the roots. To facilitate this, the nutrients must be dissolved in water after which the cells of the plant roots take up nutrients by a process called osmosis which is simply the diffusion of water across a (cell) membrane.
The only molecules these cell membranes allow to pass are very small molecules, like water molecules (H20) and small molecules of individual fertilizer nutrients such as Calcium (Ca), Magnesium (Mg), Nitrate (NO3), etc.
The way it works is very simple. Take table salt as example. Sodium chloride (table salt) NaCI, consist of two molecules, Na (sodium) and CI (Chloride). Together they form the well known white chrystalized form we see in the salt shaker. When placed into water, the two negatively charged hydrogen atoms of the water molecules will surround the positively charged Sodium (Na) molecule and literally pull it apart from the Negatively charged Chloride (CI) molecule which will attach itself to the positively charged Oxygen molecules found in water (Water = H20, e.g. 1 oxygen + 2 hydrogen molecules).
What you end up with is two individual compounds: Na and Ci each sourrounded by water molecules. These molecules can now pass through the cell membrances and into the roots. In it's complex form NaCI the sodium chloride molecule could not be taken up by the roots, but as Sodium and Chloride seperately they are taken up by the roots.
In similar manner, the plants can not use organic fertilizers (NH2) as the molecules are too large and complex and further, these molecules are not easily dissolved in water (e.g. their composition do not lend themselves to be seperated by the hydrogen and oxygen molecules of water).
Thus be able to pass into the plants via the cell membranes, first the microbacterial life (microbes) in the soil must convert the organic nitrogen into inorganic nitrogen (ammonium, or NH4). Ammonium (NH4+) can be taken up by the plants, and a fair amount does, but other microbes in the soil continue to decomposition process and convert ammonium (NH4+) into nitrates (NO3-) which are also taken up by the roots.
Synthetic fertilizers typically have the nitrogen in the ammonium and/or nitrates forms. If a fair amount is in nitrate forms, the uptake into the plant is rapid, even in cold soils. In warmer soil, the level of nitrates are less critical and ammonium form fertilizers are quite acceptable.
The key point to understand here: organic fertilizer is never taken up by the plants. organic fertilizers are first converted into inorganic fertilizer by the microbes in the soil and it is these inorganic fertilizer nutrients which are then taken up by the roots after being dissolved in water.One could theorize that plants grown primarily with organic fertilizers are also grown in better soil ?
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G
Guest
dont even get me started on most organic fertilizers are not even organic
G
Guest
most fish emulsion is synthesized so it can be up taken by your plants...nitrogen is nitrogen to the plant whether from a fish or my chems...just like a protien pill can have the same amount of protein as a steak because the protein matters not the method of delivery
All nutrients, whether synthetic or organic must be converted to a form which can be utilized by the plant. The plant does not recognize a difference between synthetic/ chemical or natural/organic nutrient sources, but the soil does.
http://www.whitneyfarms.com/guide/faqs/faq_organic.shtml
All nutrients, whether synthetic or organic must be converted to a form which can be utilized by the plant. The plant does not recognize a difference between synthetic/ chemical or natural/organic nutrient sources, but the soil does.
http://www.whitneyfarms.com/guide/faqs/faq_organic.shtml
SCF said:
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Hello all,
Unicorn, you still don't get it.
Perhaps one day someone will share with you the bounty of organics that your hydrobuds just can't match.
Yield- yes, you grow them faster, stronger, better then they were before. You have grown superweed with your chemicals and air pumps and ppm and ec and constant monitoring of the system.
I just look in on my girls to see that a bolt of lightning or some other terrible event has not occured inside my cab. If they need feeding- I give them a dose of ewc/guano/molasses/kelp tea with a 1 teaspoon vinegar and they jump. No ppm, no ec, pH I do control.
Quality- well that is a rather subjective question but flavors and smells are influenced by other factors that are not in your chems not just the stone alone. Chem highs are reputed (I do not have direct first hand knowledge of this) to be shorter lasting and leave you feeling burnt.
Besides, you big silly, organics is just better.
minds_I
Buahahahahahaha
Unicorn, you still don't get it.
Perhaps one day someone will share with you the bounty of organics that your hydrobuds just can't match.
Yield- yes, you grow them faster, stronger, better then they were before. You have grown superweed with your chemicals and air pumps and ppm and ec and constant monitoring of the system.
I just look in on my girls to see that a bolt of lightning or some other terrible event has not occured inside my cab. If they need feeding- I give them a dose of ewc/guano/molasses/kelp tea with a 1 teaspoon vinegar and they jump. No ppm, no ec, pH I do control.
Quality- well that is a rather subjective question but flavors and smells are influenced by other factors that are not in your chems not just the stone alone. Chem highs are reputed (I do not have direct first hand knowledge of this) to be shorter lasting and leave you feeling burnt.
Besides, you big silly, organics is just better.
minds_I
Buahahahahahaha
I grow three styles. Outdoor in the Earth, Indoor Soil, Indoor Hydroponic. All three produce amazing weed. I have grown the exact same strains in all three styles. They all come out different but yet they are all three amazing. You guys need to learn to appreciate each others different styles. This would be so boring if we all did it the same way. Happy Growing EVERYONE!!
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Wise words, Babba!
Growers always want to break themselves into ever-smaller subgroups, indy vs sat, soil v hydro, organic v synthetic, recreational vs med users. But so does everybody. Motorcyclists get into road v offroad, biker v café racer types, cruisers v crotch rockets, etc. Bicyclists too, mtn bike vs. road bike, fixed gear v multispeed v single speed, commuter v racer. Etc. Me, I like anything with two wheels, motorized or not.
And I'd grow synthetic hydro again, for sure. I prefer organic soil, but if I had space and time to goof around, I'd love to grow some hydro monsters again.
I certainly wouldn't want to make any enemies, online or IRL, through an argument over organic vs. synthetic nutes... keep it civil, good folks!
I was pleased, actually, to see this thread take a somewhat positive turn towards the end.
Peace-
Dignan
Growers always want to break themselves into ever-smaller subgroups, indy vs sat, soil v hydro, organic v synthetic, recreational vs med users. But so does everybody. Motorcyclists get into road v offroad, biker v café racer types, cruisers v crotch rockets, etc. Bicyclists too, mtn bike vs. road bike, fixed gear v multispeed v single speed, commuter v racer. Etc. Me, I like anything with two wheels, motorized or not.
And I'd grow synthetic hydro again, for sure. I prefer organic soil, but if I had space and time to goof around, I'd love to grow some hydro monsters again.
I certainly wouldn't want to make any enemies, online or IRL, through an argument over organic vs. synthetic nutes... keep it civil, good folks!
I was pleased, actually, to see this thread take a somewhat positive turn towards the end.
Peace-
Dignan
G
Guest
I prefer organic over chemical
I grow outdoor so I can pretty much prepare the earth in a way so that the plant has everything it needs
I grow outdoor so I can pretty much prepare the earth in a way so that the plant has everything it needs
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G
Guest
im not saying hydro is better and im not saying soil is either...conditions make better...bottom line...if you understand how the plant uptakes you would understand organic hydro is silly...not organics....organic hydro...organics is about the soil "medium"...not the plant...when i can grow out door i will grow organic but in my make believe environment i maximize my yields and dont want to haul around dirt...hydro is about reading your plants through your readings its easy and when done properly fantastic...dont think i am against organics because im not...im against people acting like its better when growing conditions determine that...not chems or organics...both can be screwed up big time...many organic growers dont know the first thing about how a plant eats...or about the the man altered supposed organic ferts they use
G
Guest
yes i think im going to make some with bogglegum this time...lol...peace
G
Guest
whatever slickster..read a little on what botanist say about the matter
The Slickster
Member
Here are a few articles by DJ Short on organics and the dangers of petro-chemicals:
Bio vs Hydro
"The purpose of this article is to help guide you in understanding the basic needs of these and other fragrant varieties, and how to best maintain their uniqueness, originality and quality. The key word to this understanding is "organic," or what the Europeans like to call "bio" methods of production, (as opposed to chemical and most hydroponic methods). Simply put, there is no real substitute for the complex relationship of plants and organic soil.
There are those in the hydroponic industry who will argue that certain hydroponic methods are nearly organic and very productive. I don't disagree. However, the main focus of the hydroponic industry is that of production, or quantity, whereas my focus is on quality.
Granted, there are situations where a hydroponic system may be superior to an organic one, especially when the grower wants only one crop and the absolutely highest yield. Sadly, the fact is also that many people simply cannot tell the difference between hydro and organic products, or they simply don't care.
The quality of the hydroponic product may be increased greatly by employing the simple "two week flush" method prior to harvest. This means that only pure water, with no additives or nutrients, be given to the plant for two weeks prior to harvest. This will only slightly decrease production, while greatly increasing the quality of the finished product."
This is another part:
Indoor organics
"Indoor environments are extremely limited in comparison to the great outdoors. The outdoors is a complete and complex system, balanced by many various circumstances. It is sometimes difficult enough to help provide and maintain the proper balances organically in an outdoor garden. Yet although properly providing and maintaining an organic environment indoors is truly a challenge to face, it is not impossible.
Airborne, soil-born, and water-born pests, fungus, mold, algae and bacteria are just a few of the organisms that can attack a crop and seriously weaken production. It is often too easy to treat these maladies with simple applications of toxic chemicals, and a bit more difficult to solve the problem in a clean and organic way. Yet here are a variety of adequate organic pesticides and fungicides on the market today. There are also living organisms such as specific predator insects and nematodes. If you feel you must use a commercial chemical product, try to find the least toxic one available for the purpose, and use sparingly. Never apply anything toxic to your plants once they're in the budding cycle.
Another factor to consider is what to use as vitalizers and fertilizers. The bulk of commercial fertilizers and vitalizers (along with most commercial pesticides, herbicides and fungicides) are synthesized from petrochemical by-products and are not truly natural products. Worms, seaweed, bat and bird guano, fish, green manures and most of their by-products are examples of substances that are naturally produced that provide plenty of good, clean nutrients to the plant. There are now many specific products suited for the indoor organic gardener. Consult your local or favorite organic garden centre for more detail."
Bio vs Hydro
"The purpose of this article is to help guide you in understanding the basic needs of these and other fragrant varieties, and how to best maintain their uniqueness, originality and quality. The key word to this understanding is "organic," or what the Europeans like to call "bio" methods of production, (as opposed to chemical and most hydroponic methods). Simply put, there is no real substitute for the complex relationship of plants and organic soil.
There are those in the hydroponic industry who will argue that certain hydroponic methods are nearly organic and very productive. I don't disagree. However, the main focus of the hydroponic industry is that of production, or quantity, whereas my focus is on quality.
Granted, there are situations where a hydroponic system may be superior to an organic one, especially when the grower wants only one crop and the absolutely highest yield. Sadly, the fact is also that many people simply cannot tell the difference between hydro and organic products, or they simply don't care.
The quality of the hydroponic product may be increased greatly by employing the simple "two week flush" method prior to harvest. This means that only pure water, with no additives or nutrients, be given to the plant for two weeks prior to harvest. This will only slightly decrease production, while greatly increasing the quality of the finished product."
This is another part:
Indoor organics
"Indoor environments are extremely limited in comparison to the great outdoors. The outdoors is a complete and complex system, balanced by many various circumstances. It is sometimes difficult enough to help provide and maintain the proper balances organically in an outdoor garden. Yet although properly providing and maintaining an organic environment indoors is truly a challenge to face, it is not impossible.
Airborne, soil-born, and water-born pests, fungus, mold, algae and bacteria are just a few of the organisms that can attack a crop and seriously weaken production. It is often too easy to treat these maladies with simple applications of toxic chemicals, and a bit more difficult to solve the problem in a clean and organic way. Yet here are a variety of adequate organic pesticides and fungicides on the market today. There are also living organisms such as specific predator insects and nematodes. If you feel you must use a commercial chemical product, try to find the least toxic one available for the purpose, and use sparingly. Never apply anything toxic to your plants once they're in the budding cycle.
Another factor to consider is what to use as vitalizers and fertilizers. The bulk of commercial fertilizers and vitalizers (along with most commercial pesticides, herbicides and fungicides) are synthesized from petrochemical by-products and are not truly natural products. Worms, seaweed, bat and bird guano, fish, green manures and most of their by-products are examples of substances that are naturally produced that provide plenty of good, clean nutrients to the plant. There are now many specific products suited for the indoor organic gardener. Consult your local or favorite organic garden centre for more detail."
G
Guest
i agree with that...do you?...i know organics is about the soil...the part your leaving out...or not understanding is the soil transforms your organic nitrogen source to an inorganic nitrogen thats the job of the microbes in the soil among earth warms and many other things...understand how a plant eats and what the soil does and you know there is no such thing as organic hydro...as organics is about the soil...nice read by dj by the way....in other words if you take away the soil organics is all washed up...kali-mist 20 days to go how much bigger will she get...peace
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