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organic vs chemweed

Organics are easy

Organics are easy

I don't see why you'd even use chemical ferts in a soil grow. I find organic soil mixes to be infinitely easy. I guess they are slightly cheaper, but the availablilty of organic ferts means not having to order from hydroponic shops.

I'm sure PBP is good stuff. I hear Earth Juice is better and listed organically, but also that you shouldn't beleive that just because a product isn't listed invalidates it's organic status.

For any realistic use if the shit says it's organic than it is. Considering you have to pay to get be listed on OMRI I don't think we should take their reviews too seriously.

I find a simple organic mix like Miracle Grow Organic coupled with fish emulsions is all you really need. Fox Farms, I'm sure is a little better, but also more expensive and harder to find. Kelp meal is a good addition also.

You should start small and not buy every super bud booster suppliment you can find. This is wasteful and overly dependant on speciality shops, which I personally avoid.

For me one of the main advantages of organic is availability, not taste or growth rates. I also find them simpler. Organics are less likely to burn your plant and more likely to grow a plant without deficiances. If you use a pre mixed soil.

If your new to organics. DO NOT mix your own soil. I know some people will tell you to, but they are all doing so from the perspective of experienced organic growers and for the most part overlook how easy it could be to mix up a toxic batch of soil. You'll find just about everything these guys list in already in Fox Farms or Mircale Grow Organic. Just add water to activate the soil. I like to wet the soil a week or two before I use it to get the beneficial bacteria going. Of course most mixes will do better with added perlite or other aeration materials.

I like to use 3 gallon containers with lots of drainage. While some will suggest no drainage this is especially dangerous when learning soil. Stick to the tried and true methods by building on the foundations others have laid out for you instead of starting from scratch. Bottom water is also a great way to cut down on the time it takes to water and you will usually get a more even watering.

Once you get a good soil mix, add some perlite all you have to do it make sure you don't overwater. Overwatering is the bane of soil growers. Container weight is the best way to consistently measure if you plants need to be watered. Yet another reason why large drainless containers are less ideal for new growers.

Don't be worried about this organic and semi-organic talk. Like I said OMRI is half a scam anyway so being listed organic means jack and shit. In most cases it's just leverage to justify charging people more money. 100% organic ohh I'll pay twice as much for that yay.. hey wait this is just a pile of crap.

Bat Guano tea is great stuff, but not in any way necessary. Bone and Blood meal will do the trick. The fish emulsions will provide any extra organic boost that you might need to fuel your soil microbes.

I think in the great race to be 100% organic people have forgotten what organics really are and treat them more like rocket science than the piles of rotting organic matter they are. If your using nuclear technology to determine if your suppliments are 100% organic, somewhere along the line you've lost sight of the the real goals.

On that note vermiculture is a great addition to any household. You can recycle and make your own worm castings. Though personally I think it's more work than it's worth and worm castings are cool and all, but they aren't going to make any major difference in the final product. Things like paying attention to your plants exact needs and light positioning will pay off far more than having every organic nute possible in your mix.

So, don't focus too much on the mix, it's just one of many variables and it shouldn't be all that complicated or it's likely to take away from the yield more than contribute to it. The more time you spend over tweaking your mix the less time you've spent perfecting the other processes at work. Unless of course you have unlimited time and energy. I don't.

I say get a pre mix, wet it and throw some plants in it. Then hit them with fish emulsions every 2-3 waterings. Chances are you'll have super buds in no time with minimal work and no yellowing. Keep it simple. If you want worm castings, add some red wigglers right into the plant containers. They will poo out castings and aerate your soil at the same time. Running the hottest mix possible is unlikely to result in higher yield. The plant uptakes what it needs, not what you give it. Taller containers are better IMO.
 
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Guest

Suby said:
There is a way I have come to grow when I need to veg a plant quickly and have it take off fast.
This is organic soil mind you but when you need a haelthy mom quickfast it's done well for me.
I use alot more perlite(50%)
some vermiculite(10%)
alot of worm castings (20%+)
and the rest is ProMix HP

I find that a more porous mix speeds up root production and shortens the wet/dry cycles in the plants waterings which leads to faster growth rates
This mix gets alot less nutrients into the plant because most of the substrate is inert so it's mediocre for flowering but for veg it really speeds them up.

As far as ferts, go easy on the kelp as it can lead to stretch which reduces branching and thus cutting sites.
I also find foliars of humic or fulvic acid really speeds up the growth also.

:2cents:
S


What are the benifits of the vermiculite...what does it add, as opposed to using all perlite? Never really thought about it!
 

Guest423

Active member
Veteran
perlite is a buffer to to keep your soil aerated, it helps dry soil.

vermiculite is a buffer to but it helps keep moisture.

they kinda work together, to keep your medium perfect imo.
 
G

Guest

Thanks T2U! I did nt know if it had some minerals or something.

Great avatar, Happy Holidaze!
I live my life in the clouds!
Willie :wave:
 

Suby

**AWD** Aficianado
Veteran
Hey WN just like T2U said, I seldom use vermiculite because as it does increase the roughness and thus the porosity of a mix but it holds water so it leads to more time between feedings, i like the least possible times between feedings, it allows for quicker adjustments without overwatering, basically the peat will hold the water.
Outdoors it's almost essential IMHO as holding water is what you want so as to keep visits to you outdoor site to a minimum.

I like vermiculite when rooting clones or when I have a mothe bonsai plant going, i use almost the exact mix T2U describes 1/3 Perlite 1/3 verm. 1/3 castings.

T2U I do find alot of seaweed leads to stretch, it contains the same hormone which leads kelp to grow a few FEET per day so it can lead to stretchiness especially in low RH grow rooms under lights that are too far, you could always foliar with seaweed and jack the light high up in the room.
 
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Guest423

Active member
Veteran
nice, i'll definatly toy around with the seaweed and the lights to see if i can encourage them shoots to grow quicker and more outward.

without the verm you water more, so does that mean you feed less nutes when u do water? like everyother or once every three feeding, 1 time a week. with my 1/3 mix in 3gal containers i water about every 3 days on average, depends on temps, and strain...some strains drink more.
 

Suby

**AWD** Aficianado
Veteran
Well i don't flower in a 1/3 mix, I use an ammended mix with activated teas and guanos with a little LK but I have done full grows with PBP and something very close to the 1/3 mix you describe and I ferted heavily every 3rd which in 5gallon pails would be every 4-5 days (watering), with added verm. I would use the exact same dose as I would anything else, you just water until you get runoff and you've basically reset the mix because the verm. is very inert and readily changes ph, I find peat buffers better.
My last grows I've been growing KaliSpice from Dman and I have a pheno that is very fussy but brutally potent and I end feeding it lightly every 4-5 days near the end of flowering, I had a bubble bucket on the go all the time.
 

Guest423

Active member
Veteran
i see, so you water water feed, water water feed.

do you put spacers under your containers for your runoff? i had a stoned thought the other night, if you have spacers under your containers when you flush do you really even get a proper flush? i mean you get runoff but the spacer holds the runoff then the plant sucks it all right back up into the roots and soil.....wouldn't that runoff be holding things your trying to flush? during the flush i was thinking of watering heavy like normal until the spacer is full then dumping out the water in the spacer so the plant don't suck it back up....it wouldn't hurt any but do you think it could help?
 

NuggyBuds

Member
T2U,
This is exactically what you should be doing!
I toss the run off all the time! You can leave it in the spacer for maybe 20 min max, this is what's called watering from the bottom. For the most part though you want to be getting rid of your run off, at least you should have a quarter of your pot size in run off tossed every time you use plain water. This WILL help by removing salt build-up caused by evaporation. Also the plant will deposit salts into the soil.
It's just good practice! :joint:
 
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Suby

**AWD** Aficianado
Veteran
Time2Unite said:
i see, so you water water feed, water water feed.

do you put spacers under your containers for your runoff? i had a stoned thought the other night, if you have spacers under your containers when you flush do you really even get a proper flush? i mean you get runoff but the spacer holds the runoff then the plant sucks it all right back up into the roots and soil.....wouldn't that runoff be holding things your trying to flush? during the flush i was thinking of watering heavy like normal until the spacer is full then dumping out the water in the spacer so the plant don't suck it back up....it wouldn't hurt any but do you think it could help?

That's right water/water/feed, towards the end of flowering i'm feeding every 2nd watering depending on the size and tecnique i'm using.

As for runoof you are right, there is no point in watering until you get runoff if your going to let them sit in it and drink it back up.
I have a trick though and I've never posted it before, I use a large % gallon paint pail to flower in, MHO is that a bigger pot leads to more pot, a simple observation actually. :chin:
I have drainage holes in the bottom of this container and I fill the bottom 3-4 inches of the pail with geolite (hydroclay), it doesn't wick back the runoff to the peat and as an added bonus it gives a nice air pocket for the roots from the bottom.
I don't go nuts with the "watering until runoff", a slight trickle from the bottom at both watering and feeding is helping in keepin salt buildup to a minimum.

Suby
 

Guest423

Active member
Veteran
nice, i knew i was on to something and it's never talked about, i see others have been doing it but i never read or hear about it, and my circle of friends definatly don't do it. i'm doing it everytime now...my tasty buds probably just got tastier!
 
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Guest

wow im wondering if this is a board of grown men n women or lil kids some of yall are trippin lmfao

ne ways im using chems right now seeing as im new to this, i like the idea of organic though seeing as this is quickly developing into a hobby organic would b more hands on with my plants ya digg

by the way im using GH floranova is that so bad lol
 
G

Guest

my medium is water so yeah a week is plenty...and you will see super fast veg. with dwc...in fact i belief you will love it when you see
Time2Unite said:
so you only use plain water for a week? i was thinking 2-3 weeks.

the main reason i want to try dwc is to see if i get some faster veg out of some slow ass vegging plants....i'll always still run my soil, but nothing wrong with running both....atleast i could compare both styles for myself and form my own opinion....thats what you have to do these days because there's always 10 different stories from both sides of everything.

 
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