Organic SFV OGKush

[Crazy Composer]

I decided, while I was in there with the camera, that these Chem 4s were of the right age to start photographing. So here's one for the hell of it. Same growing method as the SFV OGKs.

 

[Crazy Composer]

Here's 5 or 6 SFVs at two weeks 12/12. Loving life.

 

[LAMBS-BREAD]

Well Done Teacher!

 

[t13n]

I decided, while I was in there with the camera, that these Chem 4s were of the right age to start photographing. So here's one for the hell of it. Same growing method as the SFV OGKs.

http://www.htgsupply.com/viewproduct.asp?productID=53038 $40 soil mix
http://www.htgsupply.com/viewproduct.asp?productID=49515 $5 worm castings
http://www.htgsupply.com/viewproduct.asp?productID=47981 $165 400w Grow light
http://www.htgsupply.com/viewproduct.asp?productID=47435 $14 mylar
http://www.htgsupply.com/viewproduct.asp?productID=55352 $30 10 gro pots

https://www.seedboutique.com/store/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=129&products_id=2083

I would like to use your method of growing CC, how do you think i will do if I use 2.5' x 2.5' x 4' area to grow. I will build a wooden frame and use the mylar as walls. Any thing else i would need to start my project?

 

[bobdobalina420]

Those plants are monsters!! I love SFV Kush!

 

[optic sizzle]

killer macros...

I'm getting started, from scratch. is the learning curve steep for this kind of grow? If possible, do you have any pics of what they look like when it is time to feed them, or is there a schedule? my concern is that I will need such a big pot to do this, is that right? I was thinking I could do a perpetual SOG but I'm not sure it would work. also are any of the current strains in seedbay good for this method?

sorry that's a lot of newb q's. but i really want to get going on this.

any chance?

 

[Metatron]

Hey CC, I love this thread its the next thing to pushing the envelope in organics.

What makes top dressing better than tea? You could replicate the process of what your trying to do, starvation, but lighten up or cut off tea feeding towards the end as well?

Just my thoughts...

 

[Cool Moe]

Thanks for this thread CC, really appreciate the simplicity and purity of your method and the results seem to speak for themselves. Also it probably goes without saying but you have some mad camera skills bro.

 

[solarz]

hey CC, i'm wondering how/what you veg under? Just seeing the way your plants look in the comparison pic, i've never been able to accomplish plants that "big" and lush looking. I veg under cfls, and t5's...could this be a reason for it? Just wondering...thanks for the advice.

solarz

 

[Crazy Composer]

Hey CC, I love this thread its the next thing to pushing the envelope in organics.

What makes top dressing better than tea? You could replicate the process of what your trying to do, starvation, but lighten up or cut off tea feeding towards the end as well?

Just my thoughts...

I wouldn't say it's better at all... I'm just saying this is how I'm currently feeding them. I figured you could get --basically-- the same results by top feeding as you would making a tea. It just brews directly in the medium, rather than in a bucket. So far, I haven't seen any reason to believe it's not working as well as a tea... So... maybe it's the same thing without all the hassle?

The roots DO tend to get THICK at the surface by about week 5 or 6 of flower, but that's never presented itself as a problem in any way.

 

[Crazy Composer]

hey CC, i'm wondering how/what you veg under? Just seeing the way your plants look in the comparison pic, i've never been able to accomplish plants that "big" and lush looking. I veg under cfls, and t5's...could this be a reason for it? Just wondering...thanks for the advice.

solarz

I run three stages of light.

1. A T5 floro (for cloning, starting seeds, and vegging at the beer cup stage)
2. 1000W HPS (for pre-flower veg) I like HPS for vegging more than MH... It's always worked better for me, despite all the science I've seen that says MH should be better. A STRONG FLOWER ROOM COMES FROM A STRONG VEG ROOM! I, personally, consider the veg stage through the first 3 weeks of flower, to be the most important times when it comes to how close to its potential a plant will yield.
3. !000W HPS units are my preference for the flower room. I keep them raised higher off the plants than most of the people I know who use the same wattage. I like a fairly high (raised up) light source for my situation. I think the light bounces better to lower branches when the light is a bit higher than usual... more ambient light bouncing around the room that way.

 

[jaykush]

guano teas work for quick fixes, top dressing is more of a slow release i guess you could say. imo its more efficient and it makes your guano go farther.

 

[Crazy Composer]

guano teas work for quick fixes, top dressing is more of a slow release i guess you could say. imo its more efficient and it makes your guano go farther.

Slow release, yeah. I use a guano that is particularly fast on the release, some take longer, I've worked with them, too. So far I've noticed that the worse the stuff smells, the faster it releases to the plants. My 13-12-2 is one of the most raunchy-smelling guanos I've ever worked with! But plants show visible signs of being fed just 2-4 days after getting their dose, so it's worth dealing with the foul odor.

 

[jaykush]

well slow release i meant like 3 days to a week. not anything like a month or so. the liquid is fast acting like within a few hours imo.

 

[Crazy Composer]

well slow release i meant like 3 days to a week. not anything like a month or so. the liquid is fast acting like within a few hours imo.

Agreed. People who want to feed like this need to know in advance when the last dose is going to start running thin so they can feed before that happens. It's not hard to dial in, though.

 

[vonforne]

A STRONG FLOWER ROOM COMES FROM A STRONG VEG ROOM! I, personally, consider the veg stage through the first 3 weeks of flower, to be the most important times when it comes to how close to its potential a plant will yield.

I believe this also. I just use normal cool white floros for veg. If I may add that is builds the root zone at this time to support the bud size later. That is why I always include the root shots in my threads.

V

 

[solarz]

CC...thanks for the info, but now i have another question. You mention using the 13-12-2 guano, but i'm wondering if you use this same guano the whole way throughout the flowering process? I see how this could be good for veg with the high N count...but do you also use this in late flower when they need a feeding?

I have 3 types of guano that i use (i call them High N and High P, and High NP) I'll get the exact ratios in a few. But i use the High NP some (rarely) in veg and early flowering (like the first 2-3 weeks, strain depending) and then i use the High P for the rest of flowering. I do it this way because i was under the impression that it wasnt advisable to add any N after that first 3rd of the flowering stage? I'm just trying to figure this out, b/c if that's all you use from start to finish, it would save me a lot on my next guano purchase, with only having to purchase one.

Thanks again.

solarz

 

[Crazy Composer]

Solarz, In my quest to grow tasty organic pot as easily as possible... I started using ONLY this 13-12-2 right through til finish. What I've found is that the buds are coming out just fine, despite my initial worry that they might get too leafy and green. Thing is... a tablespoon per week, per plant of this stuff seems to be way too little to cause N overdose symptoms. Also, if the plants are green two weeks before harvest, I just stop feeding them. If I think the plants are prematurely yellow at this time, I'll add a tablespoon of 1-10-1 guano to help the flowers finish, without adding any more N... But most of the time I just use the 13-12-2 until it's time to stop feeding. The weekly dose is so small that, after the feeding stops, the plants yellow up very fast. Keeping the weekly dose just big enough to give them enough to eat, is the trick to getting them to "flush" out, "step down" effectively.

 

[solarz]

Hey CC, thanks for the info. I just checked and the gunaos that i have are as follows:
Indoneasian Bat Guano --> 0.5-12-0.2
Peruvian SeaBird Guano --> 10-10-2
Bat Guano --> 10-3-1

Just curious...of the last two, which would you suggest would be the best to use when attempting your method? Or does it not really matter? The reason i'm asking is because my next run...i'd like to use a mix using only Local "pro-mix", EWC and dolomite lime, while using your method of 1 tblspn a week/per plant.

Also, i'm wondering if the 1tblspn would also apply if using larger pots...like 5 gal buckets?

Thanks again.

solarz

 

[Crazy Composer]

I like the 10-10-2 myself, but you'll have to wait and see how well the N is delivered. Some high N guanos release their N more slowly than others. If it releases within 3-4 days, you should be happy. You might want to go with 1 1/2 tablespoons if you're in 5 gallon pots, sure. But the main thing is... adjust as you go, figure out what dose, how often is right for your situation.