chroniclyfaded
Member
amazing thread, dont know how i missed it.
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Organic SFV OGKush
- Thread starter Crazy Composer
- Start date
I'll get my pics of the girls up soon too.Capt.Cheeze1, interesting take on the subject. Thanks for sharing that.
I was supposed to do an article on SFV OGKush for High Times a long time ago... but as I looked into the subject of it's lineage, I found too many stories, too many controversies. I decided to pass on the assignment... If I couldn't get the right story, I was not going to do it at all. I think I'll just stick to publishing PICTURES of SFV OGK in the mags and online, rather than trying to write about its origins... that's a hard thing to do accurately. Too many strains out there with more verifiable lineages, to mess with the lineage of one that is so contested.
I have a new batch of SFV OGKush ripening right now... so there'll be a new batch of SFV pics available in a day or two... I'll post them here in Organic Soil forum.A whole new batch of plants, a couple weeks behind the plants in this thread... Different technique, also, so anyone interested in visual differences between the same clone grown with different techniques, might want to catch the new thread when it goes up.
cc
Verdant, I remember answering this already... but I must have accidentally deleted it before posting... so let's get it done this round. Also, you mentioned two questions? I could only find one, please let me know what other q you're referring to.
Your other methods sounds very similar to what I'm currently doing here... Controlling that nutrition, to me, is paramount to a superb end product.
Also, you mentioned two questions? I could only find one, please let me know what other q you're referring to.No stretch difference that I can tell.
Your other methods sounds very similar to what I'm currently doing here... Controlling that nutrition, to me, is paramount to a superb end product.
thanks CC the other q was -
im interested in the point - lets say weeks from harvest - that you ideally like to see the plant starting to yellow.
V.
im interested in the point - lets say weeks from harvest - that you ideally like to see the plant starting to yellow.
V.
CalBear4Life
Member
Great job!
V, could you possibly rephrase the question... I can't figure out what you want to know.
V
vonforne
At what week during flower do you prefer the plant to start to yellow?
I preferit to start two weeks before harvest.
cool, thanks CC (and von)
V.
V.
Hey CC, great post as usual, your posts are always, in a word,,, inspirational. You mention using bat and bird guano, however the two types of guano you mention, which i see on the provided link, are both seabird guano. Are these actually a mix of bat and seabird guano, or is there another product you use as well?
R
ruben andre
yea dud it looks like a amazing cross2010 yes
2010 yes
I'm currently using a product that is a mix of seabird and bat guano, from The Guano Co. 13-12-2. I like it because it's a heavy, weighty powder, which wets easily and incorporates into the soil very nicely. Some guanos are very light, and clot up, making it harder to work with. These lighter guanos are usually bat ONLY guanos, and they don't soak up water as readily as the seabird/bat guano mix... In my experience. Also, bat guanos are usually not the best sources of nitrogen, so the seabird is needed to add that N boost.
V
vonforne
BTW nice plants. I forgot before......my bad.
V
V
CC- Long time no see.
This post of yours ^^ answers the question I had, I think... which was, have you ever used the Int'l House of Guano brand guanos? And since I assume you have, why do you prefer this brand?
But having used a couple IHOG guanos, they are light and don't wet easily, as you mentioned.
Buds look really great, as always. I always click on a Crazy Composer thread.
Peace-
Dig
TXbredSEEDS
New member
looks lovely
t13n, I'm always changing the recipe, trying to find what works best... but knowing me... I'll never find what I think is best. As a general recipe, though, I will use 5 parts Pro-Mix or coco as a base, and 1 part earth worm castings. You'll know if the mix is too heavy with earthworm castings if the water won't drain through the medium.... If there's too much worm castings... the soil will not drain well. This is bad. You can add enough perlite to help with drainage, or just use more Pro-Mix or coco in the mix. The main point of the worm castings is to provide a nice, comfortable place for the beneficial microbes to live... I don't consider the worm castings a major food source for the plants... just a place for the organic life system to establish itself.
As for how much Micor to add... follow the direction on the container.
As a general recipe, though, I will use 5 parts Pro-Mix or coco as a base, and 1 part earth worm castings. You'll know if the mix is too heavy with earthworm castings if the water won't drain through the medium.... If there's too much worm castings... the soil will not drain well. This is bad. You can add enough perlite to help with drainage, or just use more Pro-Mix or coco in the mix. The main point of the worm castings is to provide a nice, comfortable place for the beneficial microbes to live... I don't consider the worm castings a major food source for the plants... just a place for the organic life system to establish itself.As for how much Micor to add... follow the direction on the container.
CC, I know a guy who sells composting worms (red worms), and he uses and recommends coco coir for worm bin bedding. It seems to work really well. organic compostibles get buried and quickly disappear into vermicomposted goodness. I don't know if you've ever vermicomposted, but it is super easy and a great way to recycle old used (rinsed) coco, and have free castings.
just so people know coco takes some time to decompose in wormbins compared to other bedding materials, specially those bins getting established. i know a number of people who were told its great but were disappointed as far as return/time was concerned. but if your going to recycle coco though that's a great reason to do so.
Okay... the question everyone wants answered... How tall do I let them get before flowering.
Here's a picture of two SFV plants... the one on the left is at 2 weeks flowering... the one on the right went in last night.
The one on the right is the average height I put SFV into flower at. They go from beer cups straight into three gallons of soil... veg for about 2 weeks, then flower.
2 weeks in the new pot isn't enough to let the roots take up the entire pot, so I count on the first 2 weeks in flower to finish colonizing the remaining space in the soil. It's this critical time (first two weeks of flower) that puts on the real bulk of the plant's final height and girth. I want to stress the point that the plant should have space remaining in the soil when they go into flower so the plant can experience a free-for-all growth spurt at this time.
After the first 2-3 weeks of flower, the plant's height levels out and the rest is budding growth, not height. The first few weeks of flower is absolutely critical for the end yield.
My SFVs reach about 4.5 -5 feet tall by the time the stretch is done. If you are having trouble getting SFV to yield, you can always plant two clones per pot... since they are tall, lanky plants, and two plants will fill the vertical space above the pot better than just one. But I prefer just growing the hell out of them one-per-pot.
Fed ONLY 13-12-2 seabird and bat guano, top-feed only. So simple, and effective. Gotta love it.
Here's a picture of two SFV plants... the one on the left is at 2 weeks flowering... the one on the right went in last night.
The one on the right is the average height I put SFV into flower at. They go from beer cups straight into three gallons of soil... veg for about 2 weeks, then flower.
2 weeks in the new pot isn't enough to let the roots take up the entire pot, so I count on the first 2 weeks in flower to finish colonizing the remaining space in the soil. It's this critical time (first two weeks of flower) that puts on the real bulk of the plant's final height and girth. I want to stress the point that the plant should have space remaining in the soil when they go into flower so the plant can experience a free-for-all growth spurt at this time.
After the first 2-3 weeks of flower, the plant's height levels out and the rest is budding growth, not height. The first few weeks of flower is absolutely critical for the end yield.
My SFVs reach about 4.5 -5 feet tall by the time the stretch is done. If you are having trouble getting SFV to yield, you can always plant two clones per pot... since they are tall, lanky plants, and two plants will fill the vertical space above the pot better than just one. But I prefer just growing the hell out of them one-per-pot.
Fed ONLY 13-12-2 seabird and bat guano, top-feed only.
So simple, and effective. Gotta love it.
