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Organic Fanatic Collective
- Thread starter Suby
- Start date
emmy75
Member
thanks sub for the props. yeah im definelty pimpin out these ladies(i hope) here. but i must give credit where its due. without jk's help i wouldnt have gotten this far.
i want to train them and i even found a great visual to help with that with a couple of adjustments here and there.
How-To : LST (Low Stress Training)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Well here we go, LST (Low Stress Training) the ultimate way to maximize your yield.
Before we begin lets get some knowledge on what you will be looking at.
Light Brown : Pot Outline
Green thick Lines : Main Stem
Small Thin Lines with Green Balls on top : Fan leafs
Yellow Lines : Side Branches
Red : Tiedown Metal Hooks (or thread whichever item you use, i use Hooks its easier)
The Text in the box : First digit is Step No. and Second Digit is Pot Size, below the numbers is the type of view your looking at (either from the SIDE or from the TOP)
Now that thats out of the way lets get it on..
Please note, you dont have to do it this way, its just the idea of how to do LST, this is the way i did it and you can see the end result of 4 weeks of growth this way in my signature picture where it says FIM/LST. Some may opt to use the eggcrate method where you utilize an eggcrate around the pot and tie it down to that with zipties instead of using string or hooks running from the pot itself... this way you can cover more square footage and maximize your yield even more.
Ok heres the STEPS PICTURE for you to follow along with.
STEP 1 : Grow your plant from Seed or Clone to 3 or 4 leaf sets, some use 5 but i always use 3 because after 3rd leaf set the main stem starts to harden and it will be harder to bend over your plant properly without breaking the main stem.
STEP 2 : Using a metal hook (i cut small sections of cloths hanger and bend a U shape at the end as a hook) bend over your plant with metal hook at the last internode (space between the last set of fanleafs and the next to last) and stick the metal hook into your dirt to hold down the stem.
STEP 3 : This is really not a step, just waiting time... Take note of how the top of the plant that was bent down will bend back upwards towards the light, this could take anywhere from 3 hours to 1 day. Under my 1000 Watt Metal Halide light it does it in under 3 hours.
STEP 4 : Veg and dont tie down until you have a new leaf set. You will notice Side branching has started already because good light is getting to the main stem areas next to each fanleaf stem intersection with the main stem.
STEP 5 : Depending on your starting pot size you may have to transplant. If you started out with a large pot, repeat step 2 over and over again holding the main stem down with hooks until you reach the end of the pot. In this illustration to save time and drawings, i started out with a small pot and it reached the end of the pot after the first tiedown. I repotted it into a 10 inch pot which will be my final pot size for this plant in order for me to continue the LST Bends around the inside edge of the pot.
STEP 6 : Now that your new leaf set has formed you have enough length in growth since the first bend(s) to allow you to start bending the stem horizontally around the inside edge of the pot. Use metal hooks again to keep this bend in place. Side branches should be coming along very nicely.
STEP 7 : Continue repeating steps 4 and 6, allowing the plant to grow and then keep tieing it down along the inside edge of pot using metal hooks (or whatever your using) Side branches should be forming and growing up towards the light.
STEP 8 : Continue to repeat step 7 until you are all the way around the pot... when you reach the point where your plant first met the edge of the plant Top the plant (cut off the very top of the plant ) and hold it down horizontally with a metal hook.... During all this time of repeating step 7 you should also be tieing down horizontally the new branches that have formed from the main stem as much as possible until you use up as much space as possible inside the pot as well , the outter branches growing over the outside edge of the pot you can hold down as well with string to keep those tops even with the inner branches.
STEP 9 : After you have used up all possible space inside the pot (or your eggcrate) its time to just let it flower.. This is a side view of how it will and should look by that time with all the side branches growing upwards towards the light.... these will all become Collas unlike a non LST plant will only have one colla.
During flowering and even before due to lack of light on the main stem fan leafs which is all the way to the bottom almost against the soil those fanleafs will die off anyways, i usually cut these off the main stem right after the branch has grown out in that area, keeps things neat down below where you will need good airflow during flowering.. so go ahead and take off any fanleafs coming off the main stem that is going around the inside edge of the pot.
Set your timer to 12/12 and watch it bloom
There is no Step 10 in the picture but we all know what that is HARVEST!!!
I hope i shed some light on the method of LST and its benefits.
dont u think theyre too big for lst? i defintley want more shoots. so i guess that is my biggest problem. looking at the first pic theres not much goin on except for at the top. i should really buy some mylar to shine some light on the neglected area. is that the only way to create more bud sites on the mid-bottom part of the stem?
the stick theyre up against is 36 inches. ive read that plants double in size during flower. if they reach the top of the stick in veg theyll be monsters imo when theyre ready to harvest. damn im not sure i want that. but then again the more bud sites the better.
hmmm
p.s.thanks to dierwolf for providing a visual
i want to train them and i even found a great visual to help with that with a couple of adjustments here and there.
How-To : LST (Low Stress Training)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Well here we go, LST (Low Stress Training) the ultimate way to maximize your yield.
Before we begin lets get some knowledge on what you will be looking at.
Light Brown : Pot Outline
Green thick Lines : Main Stem
Small Thin Lines with Green Balls on top : Fan leafs
Yellow Lines : Side Branches
Red : Tiedown Metal Hooks (or thread whichever item you use, i use Hooks its easier)
The Text in the box : First digit is Step No. and Second Digit is Pot Size, below the numbers is the type of view your looking at (either from the SIDE or from the TOP)
Now that thats out of the way lets get it on..
Please note, you dont have to do it this way, its just the idea of how to do LST, this is the way i did it and you can see the end result of 4 weeks of growth this way in my signature picture where it says FIM/LST. Some may opt to use the eggcrate method where you utilize an eggcrate around the pot and tie it down to that with zipties instead of using string or hooks running from the pot itself... this way you can cover more square footage and maximize your yield even more.
Ok heres the STEPS PICTURE for you to follow along with.
STEP 1 : Grow your plant from Seed or Clone to 3 or 4 leaf sets, some use 5 but i always use 3 because after 3rd leaf set the main stem starts to harden and it will be harder to bend over your plant properly without breaking the main stem.
STEP 2 : Using a metal hook (i cut small sections of cloths hanger and bend a U shape at the end as a hook) bend over your plant with metal hook at the last internode (space between the last set of fanleafs and the next to last) and stick the metal hook into your dirt to hold down the stem.
STEP 3 : This is really not a step, just waiting time... Take note of how the top of the plant that was bent down will bend back upwards towards the light, this could take anywhere from 3 hours to 1 day. Under my 1000 Watt Metal Halide light it does it in under 3 hours.
STEP 4 : Veg and dont tie down until you have a new leaf set. You will notice Side branching has started already because good light is getting to the main stem areas next to each fanleaf stem intersection with the main stem.
STEP 5 : Depending on your starting pot size you may have to transplant. If you started out with a large pot, repeat step 2 over and over again holding the main stem down with hooks until you reach the end of the pot. In this illustration to save time and drawings, i started out with a small pot and it reached the end of the pot after the first tiedown. I repotted it into a 10 inch pot which will be my final pot size for this plant in order for me to continue the LST Bends around the inside edge of the pot.
STEP 6 : Now that your new leaf set has formed you have enough length in growth since the first bend(s) to allow you to start bending the stem horizontally around the inside edge of the pot. Use metal hooks again to keep this bend in place. Side branches should be coming along very nicely.
STEP 7 : Continue repeating steps 4 and 6, allowing the plant to grow and then keep tieing it down along the inside edge of pot using metal hooks (or whatever your using) Side branches should be forming and growing up towards the light.
STEP 8 : Continue to repeat step 7 until you are all the way around the pot... when you reach the point where your plant first met the edge of the plant Top the plant (cut off the very top of the plant ) and hold it down horizontally with a metal hook.... During all this time of repeating step 7 you should also be tieing down horizontally the new branches that have formed from the main stem as much as possible until you use up as much space as possible inside the pot as well , the outter branches growing over the outside edge of the pot you can hold down as well with string to keep those tops even with the inner branches.
STEP 9 : After you have used up all possible space inside the pot (or your eggcrate) its time to just let it flower.. This is a side view of how it will and should look by that time with all the side branches growing upwards towards the light.... these will all become Collas unlike a non LST plant will only have one colla.
During flowering and even before due to lack of light on the main stem fan leafs which is all the way to the bottom almost against the soil those fanleafs will die off anyways, i usually cut these off the main stem right after the branch has grown out in that area, keeps things neat down below where you will need good airflow during flowering.. so go ahead and take off any fanleafs coming off the main stem that is going around the inside edge of the pot.
Set your timer to 12/12 and watch it bloom
There is no Step 10 in the picture but we all know what that is HARVEST!!!
I hope i shed some light on the method of LST and its benefits.
dont u think theyre too big for lst? i defintley want more shoots. so i guess that is my biggest problem. looking at the first pic theres not much goin on except for at the top. i should really buy some mylar to shine some light on the neglected area. is that the only way to create more bud sites on the mid-bottom part of the stem?
the stick theyre up against is 36 inches. ive read that plants double in size during flower. if they reach the top of the stick in veg theyll be monsters imo when theyre ready to harvest. damn im not sure i want that. but then again the more bud sites the better.
hmmmp.s.thanks to dierwolf for providing a visual
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cool info. i love to do a good lst. i prefer the loop method. dont see anyone doing it i cant get enough of it. more shoots less time. heres a pic of it one or two days after the initial training. this thing was a total bush 10 days after rooting. 2 days for the training watch the shoots come out of everywhere.
Hello all,
I like using twisty ties on a roll...my roll is long gone but I still use whats left over and over.
I have drilled small holes around the circuference of the pot to anchor to.
Works well with small wattages and spaces.
As you can see, an even canopy.
minds_I
Oh and PS to those that recall...
I am using the Kellogg's Patio Plus soil and am having excellent results so far.. Very good growth and and dark rich green leaves. I am pleased so far and do not feel bad about abandoning FFOF.
I like using twisty ties on a roll...my roll is long gone but I still use whats left over and over.
I have drilled small holes around the circuference of the pot to anchor to.
Works well with small wattages and spaces.
As you can see, an even canopy.
minds_I
Oh and PS to those that recall...
I am using the Kellogg's Patio Plus soil and am having excellent results so far.. Very good growth and and dark rich green leaves. I am pleased so far and do not feel bad about abandoning FFOF.
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Don't think so dude, microbes in septic tank a anaerobic are those for plants and vegetables are mostly aerobic.
Emmy
I like to dish out tough love to my plants, I wait until they get about the size of your then I cut the top node off.
Then I just veg them anothe 2 weeks then flower them, I tie down the individual branches slightly to open them up but that's it.
LST is great and I've used it often, I just have alot time to veg them I find topped plants are just easier in general to train.
Many ways to train our weed.
MI
Hey dudu, it's been awhile, hope you are well.
I love those twist tie rolls, I use them all the time in my setup and to tie down, I also poke holes in the lip and reuse them.
Great MI's think alike lol.
Peace
S
Emmy
I like to dish out tough love to my plants, I wait until they get about the size of your then I cut the top node off.
Then I just veg them anothe 2 weeks then flower them, I tie down the individual branches slightly to open them up but that's it.
LST is great and I've used it often, I just have alot time to veg them I find topped plants are just easier in general to train.
Many ways to train our weed.
MI
Hey dudu, it's been awhile, hope you are well.
I love those twist tie rolls, I use them all the time in my setup and to tie down, I also poke holes in the lip and reuse them.
Great MI's think alike lol.
Peace
S
Hey All, 
I have posed this question a few other places, done searches, and I am hoping this will be the place to get it anwered.
I currently use Earth juice products, moorbloom, maxicrop, and guanos to feed my plants that are in promix w/a little worm castings. I bubble them in a 5 gallon bucket for 24 to 48hrs. I use vinegar as a PH Down and that has been working really well. My tap water is very alkaline so I have not had a problem with the PH being to low. Until now.
Does anyone know of a organically safe PH up. I am sure I could find some at a hydro store but the nearest one is 2hrs away, and I do not have transportation at the moment. so I am looking for something that they would possibley carry at the grocery store or the local small gardening store, If such a thing exists.
any help would be greatly appreciatedby me and my plants.
thanks in advance.
I have posed this question a few other places, done searches, and I am hoping this will be the place to get it anwered.
I currently use Earth juice products, moorbloom, maxicrop, and guanos to feed my plants that are in promix w/a little worm castings. I bubble them in a 5 gallon bucket for 24 to 48hrs. I use vinegar as a PH Down and that has been working really well. My tap water is very alkaline so I have not had a problem with the PH being to low. Until now.
Does anyone know of a organically safe PH up. I am sure I could find some at a hydro store but the nearest one is 2hrs away, and I do not have transportation at the moment. so I am looking for something that they would possibley carry at the grocery store or the local small gardening store, If such a thing exists.
any help would be greatly appreciatedby me and my plants.
thanks in advance.
I've never adjusted ph with my organics, you could use quick lime, CaO, I've heard it drastically buffers soil ph, maybe it could work here.
I know baking soda, sodium bicarbonate, could be used to raise ph but i've never tried it.
Maybe the rest of the crew might have a better answer.....
Suby
I know baking soda, sodium bicarbonate, could be used to raise ph but i've never tried it.
Maybe the rest of the crew might have a better answer.....
Suby
Great suggestions guys.
Hey MI, hey JK.
I pulled my back out this weekend, it happens when your close to 6 1/2 feet tall.
All projects and ops on hold....
JK can you describe your tie down training methode for the OFC peeps to try, I'm interested in anything that catches your attention.
to my "lurker friend" Old Fool. 
Hey MI, hey JK.I pulled my back out this weekend, it happens when your close to 6 1/2 feet tall.
All projects and ops on hold....
JK can you describe your tie down training methode for the OFC peeps to try, I'm interested in anything that catches your attention.
to my "lurker friend" Old Fool.
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hey suby, dont mind if i do, its real simple and produces good results. i made a little diagram because whenever i try to explain it people get lost.
and as you can see in this pic ^^, which is between step 2 and 3 in the diagram. in a few days this plant was tied where the stems crossed. and let to veg out. produced 12 tops if i remember correctly.
if you want to you can take this a step further and use one of the new shoots to loop again and make even more tops. ive messed with this for a while and love it compared to just tying the plant down to the rim of the pot. always has tons of strings that get in the way this only involves one tie ( i use a rubber band cuz they stretch as the plant grows and eventually the plant will be stuck like that.
hope this comes to good use.
suby: sorry to hear about your back, i guess its time to medicate eh?
and as you can see in this pic ^^, which is between step 2 and 3 in the diagram. in a few days this plant was tied where the stems crossed. and let to veg out. produced 12 tops if i remember correctly.
if you want to you can take this a step further and use one of the new shoots to loop again and make even more tops. ive messed with this for a while and love it compared to just tying the plant down to the rim of the pot. always has tons of strings that get in the way this only involves one tie ( i use a rubber band cuz they stretch as the plant grows and eventually the plant will be stuck like that.
hope this comes to good use.
suby: sorry to hear about your back, i guess its time to medicate eh?
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Great addition, I can't believe you haven't posted this before here.
I WILL try that, finally a training method I haven't toyed with, I'm all about learing something new.
Could I supercrop and then bend at the softened stem spots?
I like to suppercrop them and this method could marry itself well to a SC tecnique.l
I am medicating..., MJ's working much better than the Robaxacet is, cheaper too :}
Thanks Jk
Sub's
I WILL try that, finally a training method I haven't toyed with, I'm all about learing something new.
Could I supercrop and then bend at the softened stem spots?
I like to suppercrop them and this method could marry itself well to a SC tecnique.l
I am medicating..., MJ's working much better than the Robaxacet is, cheaper too :}
Thanks Jk
Sub's
emmy75
Member
hey jay
thanks for the pics on your method. u told me about it before but pictures are always helpful. its really lst for dummies. i have yet to do any lst for fear of snapping a branch right off. everytime i fool around with the stem it just doesnt seem flexible enough. maybe ill have the ovaries to do it on my next grow.
btw haha cute pics jay, your quite the artist
suby 6.5 feet all i have to say is goddam
thanks for the pics on your method. u told me about it before but pictures are always helpful. its really lst for dummies. i have yet to do any lst for fear of snapping a branch right off. everytime i fool around with the stem it just doesnt seem flexible enough. maybe ill have the ovaries to do it on my next grow.
btw haha cute pics jay, your quite the artist
suby 6.5 feet all i have to say is goddam
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Ya you should have seen me driving a Ferrari last summer, it was night and everytime I clutched into gear I would turn the lights off, it was a convertible so I was really looking above the windshield, my eyes hurt when I got to 190Km per hour.
My wife laughed her ass off, the owner was scared lol.
My wife laughed her ass off, the owner was scared lol.
R
Relik
emmy75 said:
Maybe you already know this/think it's obvious, but since I don't see much people saying it: training/bending, etc, is much easier when your plants are thirsty. I would suggest training just before watering, that way you reduce your chances to break the branch/stem.
Also, sometimes when bending stems/branches, I don't want to supercrop them but I still want to soften them considerably, so what I do is, between two nodes, and between your fingers, gently bend the stem back and forth. If you do this enough you will eventually feel the inside of the stem snap, but that's for supercropping. What we want is to soften the stem enough to make it easier to train; without the "snapping" of supercropping. But, hey, if you happen to break a branch, it's no big deal, they'll do fine.
Peace
