Off the shelf retail store screw-in LED and CFL bulb comparisons

[Arf]

it was more of a "you dont have that many options to start with" white light comes 99% in 3k (2700 with bulb)or 4k the rest is hard to sell to consumers, plus that im NOT seeing any difference in 3/4/5k

AND when i started growing plants i was one of the "i need 6500 for veg mannnn" and spend 10x the amount for a 6500k instead of a 3x more wattage and 10x less money 2700k

it dun do shit...

It's called phototropism, for example roots will grow towards red light but away from blue light such as in a 6500K it's important if you are growing in something like pearlite which lets a lot of light through.

Then you have stoke shift, the more red eg. @3000K the more wasted energy from the phosphor, having to absorb a blue photon, to spit out a red one causes waste energy usually as hear. So each color temp bulb has different properties, they are not all the same. Also 6500K tend to be cheaper than the warm white, so not sure what you meant there. I veg with Philips 6500K 18W, their 3000K only go up to 14W and they are almost the same price.

 

[PoweredByLove]

sounds like you have a lot of book knowledge and very little experience?

i've grown in all kinds of media, from perlite to water. roots don't grow any more towards the surface under one light in one media than they do in another media under another light. maybe outside there's enough time and light for all that, but indoors under bulbs in 3 months. it's not even a thing anyone would worry about.

also you're confused. phototropism is about how plants react and move towards the light. like sunflowers...or your baby seedling craning it's neck over to get into the light. plants always grow towards the light regardless.

Phototropism is the growth of an organism which responds to a light stimulus. It is most often observed in plants, but can also occur in other organisms such as fungi. The cells on the plant that are farthest from the light have a chemical called auxin that reacts when phototropism occurs. This causes the plant to have elongated cells on the farthest side from the light. Phototropism is one of the many plant tropisms or movements which respond to external stimuli. Growth towards a light source is called positive phototropism, while growth away from light is called negative phototropism. Most plant shoots exhibit positive phototropism, and rearrange their chloroplasts in the leaves to maximize photosynthetic energy and promote growth.[1][2] Roots usually exhibit negative phototropism, although gravitropism may play a larger role in root behavior and growth. Some vine shoot tips exhibit negative phototropism, which allows them to grow towards dark, solid objects and climb them. The combination of phototropism and gravitropism allow plants to grow in the correct direction.[3]

also what makes you think perlite lets a lot or even a little bit of light through? it's little porous rocks. it wont allow any more light than any other pile of crumbled solid matter. i don't know anyone using perlite in a single layer 1 particle thick as a substrate do you?

i'm starting to not understand why you keep coming here to argue things you read in a book vs things that we've already done and proven.

 

[ratsidecar]

Here are mine after 3 weeks of 12/12. Trichomes began to appear 4 days ago.
There was almost no stretch when they were flipped to 12/12. I think its time to trim some undergrowth on the scrog plant.

 

[simple gardener]

Sunflowers use heliotropism.

 

[Arf]

Sunflowers use heliotropism.

It was renamed phototropism in 1892.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heliotropism

 

[simple gardener]

Sunflowers use the sun to program their internal circadian clock, so not really phototropism in my view.

 

[Muleskinner]

>>You are obviously jumping to conclusions without real research.
If you are only testing screw in retail lamps then you are getting about half the intensity in the PAR spectrum that a proper LED COB like a CXB3590 will give you.

Where is the research behind this statement - I didn't think Cree COB specturm is designed for horticulture any more than Philips household bulbs - is it? Other than the Univ. of Utah research I haven't seen PAR evaluations of different LED bulbs. I do welcome COB information in this thread, if it is actual information and not hearsay.

https://www.researchgate.net/public...g_Diodes_vs_High_Intensity_Discharge_Fixtures

 

[MicroRoy]

The main difference between phototropism and heliotropism, it that heliotropism refers to locomotion and phototropism refers to growth. Phototropism is the growth of a plant in response to the direction of light (the plant grows towards the light).

 

[Arf]

>>You are obviously jumping to conclusions without real research.
If you are only testing screw in retail lamps then you are getting about half the intensity in the PAR spectrum that a proper LED COB like a CXB3590 will give you.

Where is the research behind this statement - I didn't think Cree COB specturm is designed for horticulture any more than Philips household bulbs - is it? Other than the Univ. of Utah research I haven't seen PAR evaluations of different LED bulbs. I do welcome COB information in this thread, if it is actual information and not hearsay.

https://www.researchgate.net/public...g_Diodes_vs_High_Intensity_Discharge_Fixtures

View Image

Comparison of various bulbs starts in the first post of this thread.

Most retail LED bulbs are around 100lm/Watt, or less, a CXB3590 runs typically 160lm/Watt.

Neither the Cree or retail LED bulbs are designed specifically for horticulture, so it's a pretty level playing field to compare similar color temps and CRI. The thing to remember about retail screw in LED bulbs, is they use fewer LEDs than what is in a COB, so they drive them real hard to make up for it, the lumens/watt drops right off. That said, I love retail screw in LED bulbs, my Phillips 18W 6500k are awesome for seedlings, but in flower I switch to the Cree COBs, which work well in either micro or medium grows.

 

[jikko77]

Sunflowers use the sun to program their internal circadian clock, so not really phototropism in my view.

mmm something doesn't seem right here.
Cryptochromes absorb blue and uv-a.
the Cryptochromes helps to regulate the circadian rhythm.
Phytochromes, on the other hand, absorb red/far red and some blue.
both of them inhibit gravitropism in hypocotyls and contribute to phototropism

The main difference between phototropism and heliotropism, it that heliotropism refers to locomotion and phototropism refers to growth. Phototropism is the growth of a plant in response to the direction of light (the plant grows towards the light).

that's right.
on top of that we have a heliotropism on the leaf as well as one on the flower, usually when we have the leaf one we don't notice any on the flower.
usually the term heliotropism indicate the property, of a plant, to allign the leaf or the flower to a certain degree to get the most solar radiation captured.

 

[jikko77]

Where is the research behind this statement - I didn't think Cree COB specturm is designed for horticulture any more than Philips household bulbs - is it? Other than the Univ. of Utah research I haven't seen PAR evaluations of different LED bulbs. I do welcome COB information in this thread, if it is actual information and not hearsay.

https://www.researchgate.net/public...g_Diodes_vs_High_Intensity_Discharge_Fixtures

[URL=https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=47593&pictureid=1643066&thumb=1]View Image[/url]

are you sure there is none?
i partially disagree with the article.
light quality is something that metters, metter more if you are playing with indoor growing.

cxb 3070 and cxb 3590 reading.
one is a 5000°k (cxb 3590) the other one is a 3000°k (cxb 3070).

 

[simple gardener]

In the young leaves and buds it's a circadian movement. When you change the orientation of the plants or put them in the dark, they carry on the same movements for a while.

 

[Terpene]

I don't understand why the COB LED guys are hellbent on coming here to prove their method is better / has more PAR value / etc. If you like COBs, that's fine. Proper spectrum / high PAR output / high lumens per watt are all things that high end LEDs will get you.

I think the point of this thread is to show (much like CFL threads of yore) that you don't need to run high end LEDs to get solid results. For what its worth, my 16w LED array runs circles around my Blackstar panel (proper spectrum, great PAR value).

Now can we move back toward amazing pictures of grow setups and flowers? I'm really enjoying the show from Blynx / Ratsidecar / etc.

 

[John_Dough III]

I pulled 5.3oz out of my 2x1 with 10 led bulbs.
No complaints.
That's more than I ever pulled with a 400 watt hps off one plant.

 

[HuffnPufferfish]

how tf did you stuff that in a 2x1?


my badseeds almost done, bummed about the results but its free weed eh, under t8 & chinese bulbs (its 37days in flower btw)

 

[John_Dough III]

like this lol

day 19
https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=67893&pictureid=1632674

right before chop time
https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=67893&pictureid=1632676

 

[shawkmon]

pics of the 5.3 ? , seems pretty awesome for 2by1 led

 

[HuffnPufferfish]

thats 150grams? jeez did you feed them lead?

 

[John_Dough III]

yes that's her.
I didn't think it was possible.
figured i'd get 3-3.5

technically it's 25" x 13.5" close enough though

Looks good huff n puff

 

[John_Dough III]

thats 150grams? jeez did you feed them lead?

I just use flora nova.
It's one bottle. i'm lazy.