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o shit i just fried the ac cord connection please help

T

TREE KING

i don't know for sure but i have read in more than one place that you can run 50 foot lamp cords on an electronic ballast

if so you could take your power from the dryer supply (like other members have said), mount all your ballasts so they will plug in on the factory supply cords (like you are suppose to)outside the rooms so the heat from the ballasts would be less of an issue.......... and unless your apartment is huge, you should be able to put all the lights anyplace you want to. and it would all be safe

but that would be silly wouldn't it?

good advice cause the 220v connection in the dryer room is only 10 ft from the new grow room. it might be easier to do that i just gotta think about it for a while. hmm. that would also give me more power too to plug in an ac or dehumidifier.... the ac is too big probably a dehumidifier.... fuck that would involve an extension cord though cause the connection is outta the grow room. im sure i can figure it out
 

AzGrOw-N-sMoKe

Active member
Just take the door off an replace it with panda an tarp zipper.. just cut a lil hole on the bottom t run the cords threw the tape it closed with lite tight tape of choice... Az

Also the other link is for when you upgrade, that single unit will replace all the other ballasts.. its a 4k power an flip box on 1 an controls a total of 8 lamps... if your set on moveing the dryer to expose what you think is a 30 amp 240 this will cut down on space used an cords...
 
T

TREE KING

Just take the door off an replace it with panda an tarp zipper.. just cut a lil hole on the bottom t run the cords threw the tape it closed with lite tight tape of choice... Az

Also the other link is for when you upgrade, that single unit will replace all the other ballasts.. its a 4k power an flip box on 1 an controls a total of 8 lamps... if your set on moveing the dryer to expose what you think is a 30 amp 240 this will cut down on space used an cords...

gotcha.. is a tarp zipper from home depot good enough or is there 1 you recommend?
http://www.homedepot.com/buy/homax-tarp-zipper-door-5363.html#.UFwCWI7RelI

what is this panda your talkin about?
 
T

TribalSeeds

good advice cause the 220v connection in the dryer room is only 10 ft from the new grow room. it might be easier to do that i just gotta think about it for a while. hmm. that would also give me more power too to plug in an ac or dehumidifier.... the ac is too big probably a dehumidifier.... fuck that would involve an extension cord though cause the connection is outta the grow room. im sure i can figure it out

If you use a dehumidifier you will need a big AC. But what the fuck do I know... Just that my dehumidifier runs about 7.5 amps
 

AzGrOw-N-sMoKe

Active member
5 mm black & white poly tarp, most hydroshops carry some form... a regular tarp can work but will need to be covered by some lite tight film.... the diamond mylar from casa depot works ina pinch with some carpet tape.... but itd be cheaper to just get the panda.... Az
 
T

TREE KING

5 mm black & white poly tarp, most hydroshops carry some form... a regular tarp can work but will need to be covered by some lite tight film.... the diamond mylar from casa depot works ina pinch with some carpet tape.... but itd be cheaper to just get the panda.... Az

im gonna get the panda do you usually put yours up with sticky velcro? thats what i usually do i just didnt know if you knew a better way
 

AzGrOw-N-sMoKe

Active member
Heavy duty carpet tape... cheaper, use a 4 ft 2x4 with a couple bricks on top to put over the lil lip on the floor to make the panda tight to the ground... Az
 
T

TREE KING

thanks once again az you just saved me a ton of work now i dont have to move the washer/dryer and cut holes in the drywall and all that it woulda sucked. your the man take care
 
T

TREE KING

if anyone knows where they sell 50 ft reflector cords that can be used with any ballast please let me know. it would be nice if i could pick any ballast i want
 
G

greenmatter

if that is what you picked up from what he was posting, then when you come to denver i want to hear your interpretation of the bible.

i said electronic ballasts because it wont work with "any ballast"

shortcuts fall from the sky ....... keep your eye on the goal
 
H

heardy64

tree king its been a pleasure following this most enjoyable saga. ill look in tomorrow for more fun at least you stick at it
 
T

TribalSeeds

This is what my minds eye sees as TREE FIRE runs around his place testing outlets, lol.
If it quits sparking and smoking before he gets up it's good to GROW, by god!

http://youtu.be/EHSoN8t6x3M?t=2m

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAH! Best post ever!

Damn it! I cant rep anyone in this thread! Im all out of likes/dislikes! All of you who gave tree jester wiring advice are getting neg bombs ASAP
 

Lammy

Member
ok i got a question for you guys. i have this type of outlet on my wall on the kitchen counter and on the fuse box it says its a 20 amp circuit but when i plug in a 8000 btu ac it flicks the switch on the outlet, shuts the power off and then i have to hit the reset buttotreeking n on the outlet. does anyone know why it does this?
treeking.
I've decided this is a practical joke because you can't possibly be that dense. almost every post I made for you I told you don't want to plug in an AC into a gfci.
thank you for wasting my time goodbye.
Lammy
 

Lammy

Member
There is a reason they dont make any 4 light controllers on 20A. They make delay relays just so you dont have them all start up at the same time because of the startup load.

tribal seeds
I use 20 amp circuits because that's what the ballast are made to plug into, either a 15 or 20 amp outlet. a 30 amp outlet is a different style and the ballast won't plug into them. most of the lighting controllers they sell use 15 or 20 amp outlets in them and they should not be on a 30 amp circuit. all of the components of a circuit should be rated at or higher than the circuit breaker. at 240 volts it takes less than 20 amps to power four 1000 watt HPS lamps. even at startup I know this because they've never once tripped the breaker. so why would I want to use a 30 amp breaker considering the lights will never draw that much power. safely anyways.

for myself I do plan on upgrading the wires to 10 gauge pretty soon but all my wiring is done inside of grounded metal conduit so it's pretty safe even if something shorts out.

peace
Lammy
 
T

TribalSeeds

tribal seeds
I use 20 amp circuits because that's what the ballast are made to plug into, either a 15 or 20 amp outlet. a 30 amp outlet is a different style and the ballast won't plug into them. most of the lighting controllers they sell use 15 or 20 amp outlets in them and they should not be on a 30 amp circuit. all of the components of a circuit should be rated at or higher than the circuit breaker. at 240 volts it takes less than 20 amps to power four 1000 watt HPS lamps. even at startup I know this because they've never once tripped the breaker. so why would I want to use a 30 amp breaker considering the lights will never draw that much power. safely anyways.

for myself I do plan on upgrading the wires to 10 gauge pretty soon but all my wiring is done inside of grounded metal conduit so it's pretty safe even if something shorts out.

peace
Lammy

I dont know where youre getting your information... Take a look around at every single 4 light controller made! Nothing is 20A, they are all 30A. If your think your setup is safer than a company that manufactures lighting controllers you might be suffering from some of the same issues as Tree!
Understand that each outlet on the damn thing is properly rated homie!
http://www.greners.com/i/meters-timers/controllers/light-controllers.html
 
Last edited:

rives

Inveterate Tinkerer
Mentor
ICMag Donor
Veteran
I dont know where youre getting your information... Take a look around at every single 4 light controller made! Nothing is 20A, they are all 30A. If your think your setup is safer than a company that manufactures lighting controllers you might be suffering from some of the same issues as Tree!
Understand that each outlet on the damn thing is properly rated homie!

Lammy is dead correct here. If there is no downstream protection (lighter fusing or breakers), then using 15 or 20 amp rated receptacles on a 30 amp circuit should not be done. I can guarantee you that I can build a far safer controller than the commercial offerings - most of them fail to comply with the NEC, are neither UL or CSA certified, and the design criteria is to maximize profits. CAP in particular flagrantly disregards electrical standards.
 
T

TribalSeeds

Lammy is dead correct here. If there is no downstream protection (lighter fusing or breakers), then using 15 or 20 amp rated receptacles on a 30 amp circuit should not be done. I can guarantee you that I can build a far safer controller than the commercial offerings - most of them fail to comply with the NEC and are neither UL or CSA certified. CAP in particular flagrantly disregards electrical standards.

Yea... Cap uses some cheap shit in their gear... I own one!
Hes correct about not oversizing your breaker...
For instance, you wouldnt want to run your 20 amp AC on a 30Amp breaker because the breaker wouldnt shutdown if the AC overloaded the wire.
Wiring 4 lights to a 30A controller is not the same thing because its not going to overload at 20amp if youre using the proper guage wiring. Thats why you use a controller instead of unsafe digital timers.
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=246028&page=2
 

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