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- Thread starter GMT
- Start date
Look at the purty girls!!! Boy they look sweet. They sure are bushy!
Thanks - feeling better, one of those mid life surprises
Pullin up a seat!
Thanks - feeling better, one of those mid life surprises
Pullin up a seat!
G
Guest
This is really amazing.
I have a male Nutcruncher that's a little slower in veg than I like, but also contains genes I want, so it will shortly be his lucky day. Then it's gonna be a case of searching the offspring for what I'm after.
MGJ, Orange, Alex, Sleepy, MD, Anyone else tagging along, it's always great to hear from ya
MGJ, Orange, Alex, Sleepy, MD, Anyone else tagging along, it's always great to hear from ya
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G
Guest
and hear from me you shall then......damn mites, hope I never get the cursed things......Really liking the branching you get after topping, they just exploded on ya. And real happy to hear you got a tri on the OBO...are those the same ones I have? hope so, would make me smile to get a tri. Keep up the posts GMT, they are always informative and educational, think we're all of us on the learning curve somewhere.
Thanks MD, I'll do a photo update later but I'll do a talky bit now. Nah sorry to disappoint ya MD, but the seeds you have are the straight Orangeberrys. I only got 6 seeds of the OBOs from their tri f3 Orangeberry x orangebud as they were from an early pollen release from a male I didn't want. I only found the seeds while harvesting it. I cloned the tri and grew that along with 1 of the OBO seeds And pollinated the BO or Orangeberry f3 clone with a Black Dom cross to create the TRI H line or Bruised Berry, as I have decided to call it as it is a heavy hitter, and some must have got into the first OBO seed as I got a few seeds from that too. The next OBO I grew was the Quad, I am now growing 2 more OBOs 1 of which is a natural Tri, the other is the multi brancher, one branch of which is tri, both plants have been cloned and are also being pollinated in a few weeks with refermans Nutcruncher. There is also a cut from a tri H in the tub with the girls (oh yeah I mean Bruised Berry), so she wont miss out on the party. And yes, the other 2 seeds are now in wet paper. Like I said, pics sometime later.
Male
A very poor pic of the females who desperately need repotting now, next few days I'll sort something.
Trouble is I need a smoke so the seeds will be limited to selected branches, and then its time to see if their line will continue or if i will switch to the black dom cross crosses already completed for the next male to use with the cuts from these, assuming that is that they smoke well. I've abandoned the quad completely as the taste wasnt very orangey and the stone wasnt hard enough.
A very poor pic of the females who desperately need repotting now, next few days I'll sort something.
Trouble is I need a smoke so the seeds will be limited to selected branches, and then its time to see if their line will continue or if i will switch to the black dom cross crosses already completed for the next male to use with the cuts from these, assuming that is that they smoke well. I've abandoned the quad completely as the taste wasnt very orangey and the stone wasnt hard enough.
G
Guest
GMT-
I was doing some reading about breeding recently and found an item you might find interesting or useful. This seems to be the new hot technique for producing reliable feminized seed, but it sounds like it might help you out.
If you let a plant go beyond normal harvest by a couple of weeks (into selinity instead of maturity), it will frequently produce a few male flowers in a last-ditch effort to reproduce. Collect the pollen from these flowers, dry it, and store it in the fridge with some dessicant until you have females ready to be pollenated. This supposedly does not result in hermies but does result in mostly female plants. You can even "self" the plant by pollenating another clone from the same mother. Since there won't be a lot of pollen, make it go further by mixing it with a bit of fine flour.
I was doing some reading about breeding recently and found an item you might find interesting or useful. This seems to be the new hot technique for producing reliable feminized seed, but it sounds like it might help you out.
If you let a plant go beyond normal harvest by a couple of weeks (into selinity instead of maturity), it will frequently produce a few male flowers in a last-ditch effort to reproduce. Collect the pollen from these flowers, dry it, and store it in the fridge with some dessicant until you have females ready to be pollenated. This supposedly does not result in hermies but does result in mostly female plants. You can even "self" the plant by pollenating another clone from the same mother. Since there won't be a lot of pollen, make it go further by mixing it with a bit of fine flour.
Thanks Ambre, I may try that out in a couple of months. In the mean time, here are the plans. Use the male Nutcruncher to polinate all 3 of the girls. Tri H cut ( not so tri now) tri OBO, (topped while still very tri and not revegged cutting like the H) and multibranch OBO. The only cutting I'm keeping is the tri OBO. offspring from the other 2 plants will be searched and crossed to the cut of the tri OBO. Hopefully I'll get an interesting male from them somewhere. In the mean time, there are 2 OBO seedlings growing, and 2 H seedlings growing, both only 2 leaved, and a tri H plant about to sex in 10 days. Now that will leave it too late to then be used to breed with if its male, but there is the cut and there will be the off spring or if its female will be both cut for the future tri H cut and pollinated by nutcruncher to give several separate tri gene pools to be searching through and breeding with, not to mention the offspring from previous tri generations to search through. It's going to be some time before I get to where I want to be, but I am trying my best to do it right. Or as right as I can. The tri OBO that I am flowering right now, will be my best bet to try that technique with Ambre, but I'm not sure how healthy it would be to then start breeding with the offspring. But purely as an experiment, it sounds too good to miss out on, considering the only cost is an old plant already harvested. When we get to that point in time, I'll hit ya up for some suggestions on the best way to approach it.
Wow, I popped in here to register an attack of the spider mites. I keep thinking that I have beaten them and they come back. I need to do a photo shoot, those pics are so out of date. I just removed about a litre of leaves from em, trying to slow the infestation. They are roughly 2 weeks in, and just finished getting pollinated. They are the stage that the fan starts going on them a little more directly now, so that may help out. The prob seems to stem from overlapping the next generation grow and the current grows. But to do it the other way means growing 3 months worth rather than 2 at a time. I dont want 50% more big plants, so I need another way. I tried keeping things wetter, but that just filled the room with fungus gnats. I'm now going to try 2 things. 1 a well placed kettle. 2, a water alcohol mix sprayed under the leaves. I'll get em pissed and those that dont fall off, will be misted with steem. I will be carefull not to burn the leaves. Soil is starting to piss me off. But I dont want to have to mess about with bottles of chemicals.
Hi GMT
Sorry to hear you have those nasty sap sucking bugs in your grow. I forgot which generous member wrote this, but have you tried some diatomaceous earth to knock these down a peg? I mixed some in with the watering and also sprinkled some on top of the soil. It's like eating ground glass for the bugs. I'm now adding a cup / gallon to my soil mixes to help keep the nasty soil insects at bay. plus neem...
that I didn't think of this myself - I've been useing the stuff to keep the train of ants and aphids off our fruit trees for years. Ring of this stuff around the trunk and the ants disappear.
Hey - have a great Holiday Season my friend!
Sorry to hear you have those nasty sap sucking bugs in your grow. I forgot which generous member wrote this, but have you tried some diatomaceous earth to knock these down a peg? I mixed some in with the watering and also sprinkled some on top of the soil. It's like eating ground glass for the bugs. I'm now adding a cup / gallon to my soil mixes to help keep the nasty soil insects at bay. plus neem...
that I didn't think of this myself - I've been useing the stuff to keep the train of ants and aphids off our fruit trees for years. Ring of this stuff around the trunk and the ants disappear.Hey - have a great Holiday Season my friend!
Thanks mate, tis the season to be jolly, hope yours is
I dont have a single grow shop within 100 miles of me. And besides, I hate the idea of smoking chemicals (i'm assuming its a chemical). I had hoped that I had seen the last of them, but no. They seem to like alcohol, so thats no good. I didnt want to resort to a chilli pepper as I dont want the buds to taste like that, but i suppose it's still early enough to try. I have also heard of some paper stuff that they dont like, and someone kindly offered to sort out an international delivery for me, so if all else fails, I'll get some of that in Feb ready for the next gen to be planted. In the mean time, I'm opting for a damp environment and cold temps, in the hope that that will at least slow the breeding down. Pics fest tonight, just getting the talky bit done for now.
I dont have a single grow shop within 100 miles of me. And besides, I hate the idea of smoking chemicals (i'm assuming its a chemical). I had hoped that I had seen the last of them, but no. They seem to like alcohol, so thats no good. I didnt want to resort to a chilli pepper as I dont want the buds to taste like that, but i suppose it's still early enough to try. I have also heard of some paper stuff that they dont like, and someone kindly offered to sort out an international delivery for me, so if all else fails, I'll get some of that in Feb ready for the next gen to be planted. In the mean time, I'm opting for a damp environment and cold temps, in the hope that that will at least slow the breeding down. Pics fest tonight, just getting the talky bit done for now.
Here's the wikipedia definition:
Diatomaceous earth, also known as diatomite, kieselguhr, kieselgur, and Celite, is a naturally occurring, soft, chalk-like, sedimentary rock mineral that is easily crumbled into a fine white to off-white powder. This powder has an abrasive feeling similar to pumice powder and is very light-weight due to its high porosity. It is made primarily of silica and consists of fossilized remains of diatoms, a type of hard-shelled algae. It is used as a filtration aid, as a mild abrasive, as a mechanical insecticide, as an absorbent for liquids, as cat litter, and as a component of dynamite.
No chemicals or pesticides involved. What gets the bugs is at the microscopic level it looks like jagged broken glass, gets stuck to their feet, they track it back home, track it into their food supply, and they eat the equivalent of ground glass. You might even find it in a hardware store.
meanwhile I'm sure the dampness and cold will put a damper on them, slow their mating down
Keepin my fingers crossed!
Diatomaceous earth, also known as diatomite, kieselguhr, kieselgur, and Celite, is a naturally occurring, soft, chalk-like, sedimentary rock mineral that is easily crumbled into a fine white to off-white powder. This powder has an abrasive feeling similar to pumice powder and is very light-weight due to its high porosity. It is made primarily of silica and consists of fossilized remains of diatoms, a type of hard-shelled algae. It is used as a filtration aid, as a mild abrasive, as a mechanical insecticide, as an absorbent for liquids, as cat litter, and as a component of dynamite.
No chemicals or pesticides involved. What gets the bugs is at the microscopic level it looks like jagged broken glass, gets stuck to their feet, they track it back home, track it into their food supply, and they eat the equivalent of ground glass. You might even find it in a hardware store.
meanwhile I'm sure the dampness and cold will put a damper on them, slow their mating down
Keepin my fingers crossed!
Wow, never heard of it. So how do you get it under the leaves? and to stick there?
The mites never hit the soil, so although it would help with the gnats, unless i can get it under the leaves, I dont see how it would interfer with the real buggers. Help, how would this work please, I need to know so that I dont need to keep taking crops early. I cant make do on the reduced weed and worked out I'll be out of smoke by jan, with harvest in feb.
The mites never hit the soil, so although it would help with the gnats, unless i can get it under the leaves, I dont see how it would interfer with the real buggers. Help, how would this work please, I need to know so that I dont need to keep taking crops early. I cant make do on the reduced weed and worked out I'll be out of smoke by jan, with harvest in feb.
You got a point there - you could make a slurry of it and then spray it on the underside of the leaves.
Alhtough I know you don't like chemicals:
Pyrethrins are a pair of natural organic compounds that have potent insecticidal activity. The pyrethrins are contained in the seed cases of the perennial plant pyrethrum (Chrysanthemum cinerariaefolium), which is grown commercially to supply the insecticide. Pyrethrins are neurotoxins that attack the nervous systems of all insects. When present in amounts not fatal to insects, they still appear to have an insect repellent effect. They are harmful to fish, but are far less toxic to mammals and birds than many synthetic insecticides. They are non-persistent, being biodegradable and also breaking down easily on exposure to light or oxygen. They are considered to be amongst the safest insecticides for use around food.
For me the big bonus is they break down in the presence of light and oxygen. I have studied this in my outdoor garden, and it only keeps new bugs away for about a day, the published number is a day or two. They have monkeyed a bit with the chemical and created permethrin which lasts 10-14 days. Pyrethrins are a common garden insecticide, you can probably find it in any garden center. If you stick with pyrethrin and not any of the derivatives you will knock the adult and larvae population back to nothing and 2 days later no trace of the insecticide.
What we need is a good 2 horsepower mite vacuum
Alhtough I know you don't like chemicals:
Pyrethrins are a pair of natural organic compounds that have potent insecticidal activity. The pyrethrins are contained in the seed cases of the perennial plant pyrethrum (Chrysanthemum cinerariaefolium), which is grown commercially to supply the insecticide. Pyrethrins are neurotoxins that attack the nervous systems of all insects. When present in amounts not fatal to insects, they still appear to have an insect repellent effect. They are harmful to fish, but are far less toxic to mammals and birds than many synthetic insecticides. They are non-persistent, being biodegradable and also breaking down easily on exposure to light or oxygen. They are considered to be amongst the safest insecticides for use around food.
For me the big bonus is they break down in the presence of light and oxygen. I have studied this in my outdoor garden, and it only keeps new bugs away for about a day, the published number is a day or two. They have monkeyed a bit with the chemical and created permethrin which lasts 10-14 days. Pyrethrins are a common garden insecticide, you can probably find it in any garden center. If you stick with pyrethrin and not any of the derivatives you will knock the adult and larvae population back to nothing and 2 days later no trace of the insecticide.
What we need is a good 2 horsepower mite vacuum
Wow, I'm starting to like the sound of this for 2 reasons. We have a chrysanthmm bush in the garden, and while that stuff is chemically, it's natural ones so that s a bit better. We have a bug spray under the stairs, for house hold plants, but for vetgetables, and says not to use in open flower. So I'm not sure, but it says on the label that the active ingredient is pyrethoids. Do you know if thats the same thing as pyrethrins? got to be close surely? I have reacted badly to using this spray in the house before now, so if I do resort to it, it means a spray and dash operation, which I am hoping to avoid. The other thing is can I just be done with it and take a chrysan cut and stick it in the grow room?
Wow - real nice nutcrunchers!!! Only wish I could've smoked the nutcrunchers I knew in college, weren't good for much else 
I don't think the chrysanthemum plants themselves will help, the pyrethrins are in the seed case. The plants themselves are pretty bug resistant, but I don't think they spread the stuff around.
Anything that says pyreth-something rather than pyrethrin is usually some derivative chemical to make it last a bit longer. Around here I can get pyrethrin "bombs". They have a locking trigger so open the door a bit, press the trigger, stand the can up, close the door and walk away. Minimum exposure to the stuff. Turn the fan off before releasing, and an hour or so later hold your breath and go turn on the fan. An hour later the excess in the air should be gone out the exhaust.
Remember the old movie Fantastic Voyage? Shrink down with a nice sword and slice those suckers off at the base, every one of 'em! 
Hope you can under control....
I don't think the chrysanthemum plants themselves will help, the pyrethrins are in the seed case. The plants themselves are pretty bug resistant, but I don't think they spread the stuff around.
Anything that says pyreth-something rather than pyrethrin is usually some derivative chemical to make it last a bit longer. Around here I can get pyrethrin "bombs". They have a locking trigger so open the door a bit, press the trigger, stand the can up, close the door and walk away. Minimum exposure to the stuff. Turn the fan off before releasing, and an hour or so later hold your breath and go turn on the fan. An hour later the excess in the air should be gone out the exhaust.
Remember the old movie Fantastic Voyage? Shrink down with a nice sword and slice those suckers off at the base, every one of 'em!
Hope you can
under control....
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Thanks MGJ,
I went for the fantastic voyage. After a few hours, I reckon most of them and the leaves containing eggs have been removed. Whats left has had another mist of scotch and water. Then the fan went on full blast to try and knock any pissed mites off. Really trying to avoid the chems. Its a hot pepper if they still seem to increase in numbers or start any of that webbing shit. Thought about some vegatable oil for under the leaves, trouble is I dont want to block any of the breathing holes and suffacate the plants? Anyway they cant hurt the seeds that are now forming.
Pic fest:
Group shot
Now the semi-tri Bruisedberry (H),
Closer pic, trichs starting
..................................
multi branch OBO branches
Tri OBO branches
I went for the fantastic voyage. After a few hours, I reckon most of them and the leaves containing eggs have been removed. Whats left has had another mist of scotch and water. Then the fan went on full blast to try and knock any pissed mites off. Really trying to avoid the chems. Its a hot pepper if they still seem to increase in numbers or start any of that webbing shit. Thought about some vegatable oil for under the leaves, trouble is I dont want to block any of the breathing holes and suffacate the plants? Anyway they cant hurt the seeds that are now forming.
Pic fest:
Group shot
Now the semi-tri Bruisedberry (H),
Closer pic, trichs starting
..................................
multi branch OBO branches
Tri OBO branches
