its pretty huge. large bubbles at first that subside to a smaller sized froth for a moment or two.
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its pretty huge. large bubbles at first that subside to a smaller sized froth for a moment or two.
i was addressing this to you Graywolf, in reflection i dont think it was clear, and you may have missed it.
I was not specific enough, i am looking for a discussion on the effect decarboxylation has on color and terpenes...
I finally got a chance to play with my DIY press today.
I have 2 plates of aluminum that are 6" x 6" x 0.25". Each has a single 300F PTC heater mounted with HT epoxy.
After a couple hours it was obvious that the single PTC on each plate does not have enough juice to heat the entire plate so I will add 1 more PTC to each plate tonight. It takes 24 Hrs for the epoxy to cure so I can test it again tomorrow.
Meanwhile, I left this setup on for a couple hours while I remodeled my hair press. After a couple hours, the temperature had risen to about 110F.
Now, I am using a laser thermometer and there have been several posts in this thread about how they are not reliable on shiny surfaces??? I will need to look into that.
However, ASSuming that my laser thermometer is correct against the aluminum plates, I achieved a pretty solid temperature of about 110F.
Since someone (I think GrayWolf) posted that temps above about 120F cause the carboxylic acids to start losing their carboxyl, and I didn't want to waste the time spent heating the plates, I figured I would press something just for shits and giggles.
I took a tiny little nuggie of about 0.5 g and pressed it between the plates for 30 seconds. Got an amazing amount for such a small nuggie. It squeezed out nice and clear but by the time I played with it and rolled it in my fingers and let my dog sniff it (he's a retired police dog so he tells me if my shit is any good or not. Pretty cool dog), it had a lot of debris in it. The pic of it is not great. I'm a little sloppy. LOL
I just took a taste and I wouldn't say it was exceptionally great. Good, but not great. About on the same scale as all the rosin I have tasted so far. And, since mj really doesn't get me high any more, it's all about taste and aroma for me. It's the only reason I smoke (other than habit).
I did notice that it had a taste much more true to the original strain. The OG Kush I was pressing before was very sweet and filled the room with lilacs with I over-pressed.
All of today's tests utilized a Landrace Afghan Kush. The rosin that I got from the hair press experiments this morning at 300F and 320F tasted very much like the rosin I got from the OG Kush.
However, the rosin that I got from my DIY press at 110F press is much more earthy/peppery/spicy than anything I have tasted yet.
And, I would say that the earthy/peppery/spicing category pretty well sums up what a Landrace Afghan Indica should taste like. I don't smoke a lot of plain pot unless I'm going out but the pot has that same earthy characteristic.
Just tossing that out since you guys are talking about it.
I need to run to Harbor Freight tomorrow for a hydraulic jack. Holding down the arbor press for 30 seconds is too much manual labor for me. I'm Italian. We don't like to do a lot of manual labor. Not sure why.
Next, I need to build a rig for the hydraulic press. Once again, I remember someone mentioning that these bottle jacks don't work on their side. Looks like more reading ahead on that topic as well prior to building the rig.
Also, I plan to buy the small 4 ton model jack. Can anyone imagine a reason why I would need more than the 4 ton model? That seems like way more than I'll need. And, the smaller the jack, the smaller I can make the rig.
Also, the bottle jacks are on sale this week at Harbor Freight 33% off. No coupon required.
I took a couple of pics...
I have 2 plates of aluminum that are 6" x 6" x 0.25". Each has a single 300F PTC heater mounted with HT epoxy.
After a couple hours it was obvious that the single PTC on each plate does not have enough juice to heat the entire plate so I will add 1 more PTC to each plate tonight. It takes 24 Hrs for the epoxy to cure so I can test it again tomorrow.
Meanwhile, I left this setup on for a couple hours while I remodeled my hair press. After a couple hours, the temperature had risen to about 110F.
Now, I am using a laser thermometer and there have been several posts in this thread about how they are not reliable on shiny surfaces??? I will need to look into that.
However, ASSuming that my laser thermometer is correct against the aluminum plates, I achieved a pretty solid temperature of about 110F.
Since someone (I think GrayWolf) posted that temps above about 120F cause the carboxylic acids to start losing their carboxyl, and I didn't want to waste the time spent heating the plates, I figured I would press something just for shits and giggles.
I took a tiny little nuggie of about 0.5 g and pressed it between the plates for 30 seconds. Got an amazing amount for such a small nuggie. It squeezed out nice and clear but by the time I played with it and rolled it in my fingers and let my dog sniff it (he's a retired police dog so he tells me if my shit is any good or not. Pretty cool dog), it had a lot of debris in it. The pic of it is not great. I'm a little sloppy. LOL
I just took a taste and I wouldn't say it was exceptionally great. Good, but not great. About on the same scale as all the rosin I have tasted so far. And, since mj really doesn't get me high any more, it's all about taste and aroma for me. It's the only reason I smoke (other than habit).
I did notice that it had a taste much more true to the original strain. The OG Kush I was pressing before was very sweet and filled the room with lilacs with I over-pressed.
All of today's tests utilized a Landrace Afghan Kush. The rosin that I got from the hair press experiments this morning at 300F and 320F tasted very much like the rosin I got from the OG Kush.
However, the rosin that I got from my DIY press at 110F press is much more earthy/peppery/spicy than anything I have tasted yet.
And, I would say that the earthy/peppery/spicing category pretty well sums up what a Landrace Afghan Indica should taste like. I don't smoke a lot of plain pot unless I'm going out but the pot has that same earthy characteristic.
Just tossing that out since you guys are talking about it.
I need to run to Harbor Freight tomorrow for a hydraulic jack. Holding down the arbor press for 30 seconds is too much manual labor for me. I'm Italian. We don't like to do a lot of manual labor. Not sure why.
Next, I need to build a rig for the hydraulic press. Once again, I remember someone mentioning that these bottle jacks don't work on their side. Looks like more reading ahead on that topic as well prior to building the rig.
Also, I plan to buy the small 4 ton model jack. Can anyone imagine a reason why I would need more than the 4 ton model? That seems like way more than I'll need. And, the smaller the jack, the smaller I can make the rig.
Also, the bottle jacks are on sale this week at Harbor Freight 33% off. No coupon required.
I took a couple of pics...
Attachments
use the 20% off coupon in conjunction with it being on sale and get it for dirt cheap^^^^
They only give one discount per item LOL
LOLI have been discussing in pm with squatting bull. We both would like a good terpene thread to be started. I might just go ahead and do it if he doesn't soon lol!
The more heat and time, the more decarb and terpene loss. I was told, in atmosphere, terpenes really start dieing quick at 140F. Obviously though just like the statement of 120F for decarb, time and heat have a relationship with the reaction, look at the graph I previously attached.
Decarbed product will be darker and stickier. I've been for sure noticing differences in my samples. At 250F the last of the product to exit the material is stickier than the first bits. However there is no real color difference that my eye can see. When I purposely decarb product, it for sure gets darker.
Terpene preservation is a pita! I have an idea for an rosin specific whole plant terpene reintroduction technique. Nothing will ever beet extraction and isolation of terps from fresh material. If one was growing the plants themselves, I have an idea for a total complete whole plant terpene isolation and reintroduction of all three classes. I can't wait for Tony to dial his tech and release it, because that would be helpful. What little he has told me is what gave me the idea for the total complete whole plant isolation process. It will be a lot of work though.
Tony also told me that terpene molecules can break down and reassemble as entirely new terpenes. Which would explain the analytical anomalies that another associate is seeing with his rosin experiments. All just theories and talk at his point but I feel Tony is very educated and intelligent.
so this leads me back to my next round of experimentation involving decarb and terpenes. I'll let you all know how it goes, I'll probably have like a dozen samples to test, and have to do some fabrication and construction, so maybe give me a week to get the results back.
I gotta go but I'm coming back tonight to give you a huge high five ringo!
If it is still fizzy, it isn't fully decarboxylated.
We have a GC, which can't tell the difference between THCA and THC, but we have associates with HPLC's which can. I put it on the list of things to discuss next gathering and see if they want to share a test for posterity.
I haven't done any lab comparisons, or conducted any panel tests on Rosin vis a vis BHO.
We've done extensive testing on BHO, but none on Rosin beyond anecdotal and no split sample.
You usually lose some of the monoterpenes during decarboxylation and the material is darker, but not sure exactly why. Joe thinks we may be caramelizing plant sugars.
random thought
saw a guy on instagram rosin his material thru 25 micron stainless steel mesh, like bho tube blowers used back in the day
link:
http://www.316twholesale.com/#!product/prd1/1473442921/25-micron-filter-6"x-6"
so i think what u do is take your ice water hash, make an envelope out of the ss, put the hash in there, then place between parchment and squeeze
If this is old news i apologize
saw a guy on instagram rosin his material thru 25 micron stainless steel mesh, like bho tube blowers used back in the day
link:
http://www.316twholesale.com/#!product/prd1/1473442921/25-micron-filter-6"x-6"
so i think what u do is take your ice water hash, make an envelope out of the ss, put the hash in there, then place between parchment and squeeze
If this is old news i apologize
Yes ss mesh has been discussed before.
25u has already been discussed as well, I'd like to get to 5 micron myself but that's for the future.
RINGO! BIG HIGH FIVE!!!!!!
good job on finishing your project. You need way smaller plates or way bigger coils dude. Put a piece of masking tape.on your plates and read the temp off of that, it will be much more accurate. I've been finding darker colors are better, like black. If you can't find black masking tape, use the dark blue.
Super good job on the hair iron rebuild. Well played good sir!
25u has already been discussed as well, I'd like to get to 5 micron myself but that's for the future.
RINGO! BIG HIGH FIVE!!!!!!
good job on finishing your project. You need way smaller plates or way bigger coils dude. Put a piece of masking tape.on your plates and read the temp off of that, it will be much more accurate. I've been finding darker colors are better, like black. If you can't find black masking tape, use the dark blue.
Super good job on the hair iron rebuild. Well played good sir!
I'm confused as far as to the whole statement of losing oxylation.
I was under the impression that DE - CARB OXY-LIZE meant that a carbon is dropped and an oxygen is gained. Joe, gw, is that correct?
If that's true than that could help explain the loss of stability as carbon acts a fiber strengthening agent. Which is why graphite (a chain of carbons) which is derived from soot, is added to viton.
I was under the impression that DE - CARB OXY-LIZE meant that a carbon is dropped and an oxygen is gained. Joe, gw, is that correct?
If that's true than that could help explain the loss of stability as carbon acts a fiber strengthening agent. Which is why graphite (a chain of carbons) which is derived from soot, is added to viton.
HashoftheTitans
Member
I believe it loses a carboxyl group and it is co2 bubbles you see.
you get tons of that in an enail with well made heat press oil (HPO).
A carboboxyl is typically R-C(O)OH, lost as CO2.
Ok so carboxyl is one term with that word, and not two, I get it now, thanks.
Damn gw I wish you told me that back when you told me about watching the oven bubbles. I would have taken the co2 bubbles in the oven more seriously lol!
Well gang, anyone running Microsoft operating systems got (or will get soon) the Windows 10 nag. LOL Gotta luv slam marketing.
Well, Bill Gates is a fucking billionaire and if he says it's time to upgrade then he must know what the fuck he is talking about.
So, I immediately went to Harbor Freight and did an upgrade.....
Dumped the arbor press and swapped it for a 6 ton A-frame press.
I put 2 PTC heaters on each press plate instead of one. And, I upgraded to a new epoxy because the other stuff held up to the temperatures but it was rigid and it would not take the slight flexing that apparently happens during pressing.
The PTC upgrade worked like a charm. The aluminum plates rose to temp in about 20 or 30 minutes.
They seemed to stabilize around 110 to 115F and I knew something was wrong with that so I took Sunfire's suggestion and put some masking tape on the aluminum and the laser therm started reading about 185F all the way around. Inside the plates was about 10 to 15F hotter at almost 200F. Thanks to Sunny for that. I was wondering why I was getting good presses at 110F. I was really at 185F the whole time. Ordering temp tape today.
As far as the press upgrade... OMG!! I can see some definite problems with too much pressure but you sure have the option with this.
I have not had a chance to really press anything yet but while I had the plates nice and hot, I figured I would try one press. All I had laying on the bench was some old flat pieces that had already been pressed once or twice.
I took a stack of about 10 of them and put them between a scrap piece of parchment that was sitting there figured, what the fuck, go for it. I didn't really expect there to be much left in them.
I put one arbor plate below and one above to try to distribute the pressure on the aluminum plates more evenly. I'll need to rig something for that later.
I put the package in between and cranked it down as hard as I could. LOL I couldn't try less than maximum pressure. I'm an over-achiever. LMAO
I walked away and came back about 30 seconds later and the shit was all over the place. LOL It squeezed right past the parchment and out of the plate edges. LOL Oops.
I really didn't think there was much left in those flatties. Guess I was wrong. LOL 30 seconds is way to long in my setup so the rosin was all dark and ugly but I did a second press with some other pieces with less time and pressure and I was pretty happy with the overall upgrade. Thank you Bill Gates and Thank you Harbor Freight.
Lots of experimenting to do. Big thanks also to all you big-boy contributors in this thread for getting me this far.
Rosin on.
Well, Bill Gates is a fucking billionaire and if he says it's time to upgrade then he must know what the fuck he is talking about.
So, I immediately went to Harbor Freight and did an upgrade.....
Dumped the arbor press and swapped it for a 6 ton A-frame press.
I put 2 PTC heaters on each press plate instead of one. And, I upgraded to a new epoxy because the other stuff held up to the temperatures but it was rigid and it would not take the slight flexing that apparently happens during pressing.
The PTC upgrade worked like a charm. The aluminum plates rose to temp in about 20 or 30 minutes.
They seemed to stabilize around 110 to 115F and I knew something was wrong with that so I took Sunfire's suggestion and put some masking tape on the aluminum and the laser therm started reading about 185F all the way around. Inside the plates was about 10 to 15F hotter at almost 200F. Thanks to Sunny for that. I was wondering why I was getting good presses at 110F. I was really at 185F the whole time. Ordering temp tape today.
As far as the press upgrade... OMG!! I can see some definite problems with too much pressure but you sure have the option with this.
I have not had a chance to really press anything yet but while I had the plates nice and hot, I figured I would try one press. All I had laying on the bench was some old flat pieces that had already been pressed once or twice.
I took a stack of about 10 of them and put them between a scrap piece of parchment that was sitting there figured, what the fuck, go for it. I didn't really expect there to be much left in them.
I put one arbor plate below and one above to try to distribute the pressure on the aluminum plates more evenly. I'll need to rig something for that later.
I put the package in between and cranked it down as hard as I could. LOL I couldn't try less than maximum pressure. I'm an over-achiever. LMAO
I walked away and came back about 30 seconds later and the shit was all over the place. LOL It squeezed right past the parchment and out of the plate edges. LOL Oops.
I really didn't think there was much left in those flatties. Guess I was wrong. LOL 30 seconds is way to long in my setup so the rosin was all dark and ugly but I did a second press with some other pieces with less time and pressure and I was pretty happy with the overall upgrade. Thank you Bill Gates and Thank you Harbor Freight.
Lots of experimenting to do. Big thanks also to all you big-boy contributors in this thread for getting me this far.
Rosin on.
Attachments
Well gang, anyone running Microsoft operating systems got (or will get soon) the Windows 10 nag. LOL Gotta luv slam marketing.
Well, Bill Gates is a fucking billionaire and if he says it's time to upgrade then he must know what the fuck he is talking about.
So, I immediately went to Harbor Freight and did an upgrade.....
Dumped the arbor press and swapped it for a 6 ton A-frame press.
I put 2 PTC heaters on each press plate instead of one. And, I upgraded to a new epoxy because the other stuff held up to the temperatures but it was rigid and it would not take the slight flexing that apparently happens during pressing.
The PTC upgrade worked like a charm. The aluminum plates rose to temp in about 20 or 30 minutes.
They seemed to stabilize around 110 to 115F and I knew something was wrong with that so I took Sunfire's suggestion and put some masking tape on the aluminum and the laser therm started reading about 185F all the way around. Inside the plates was about 10 to 15F hotter at almost 200F. Thanks to Sunny for that. I was wondering why I was getting good presses at 110F. I was really at 185F the whole time. Ordering temp tape today.
As far as the press upgrade... OMG!! I can see some definite problems with too much pressure but you sure have the option with this.
I have not had a chance to really press anything yet but while I had the plates nice and hot, I figured I would try one press. All I had laying on the bench was some old flat pieces that had already been pressed once or twice.
I took a stack of about 10 of them and put them between a scrap piece of parchment that was sitting there figured, what the fuck, go for it. I didn't really expect there to be much left in them.
I put one arbor plate below and one above to try to distribute the pressure on the aluminum plates more evenly. I'll need to rig something for that later.
I put the package in between and cranked it down as hard as I could. LOL I couldn't try less than maximum pressure. I'm an over-achiever. LMAO
I walked away and came back about 30 seconds later and the shit was all over the place. LOL It squeezed right past the parchment and out of the plate edges. LOL Oops.
I really didn't think there was much left in those flatties. Guess I was wrong. LOL 30 seconds is way to long in my setup so the rosin was all dark and ugly but I did a second press with some other pieces with less time and pressure and I was pretty happy with the overall upgrade. Thank you Bill Gates and Thank you Harbor Freight.
Lots of experimenting to do. Big thanks also to all you big-boy contributors in this thread for getting me this far.
Rosin on.
Hee, hee, hee, let the fun begin!
Looking good ringo..
