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New extraction technique? Rosin tech?

JRace

Member
I just increased my yields by 3% on average by changing from a rectangular pre-press to a cylindrical pre-press.

6ton 3*5 plates.

Can also now squish 10g and get the same yield % as with 5g,
With the rectangle pre-press anything over 5g would have lower yield%.

All done bag less.
 

Burt

Well-known member
Veteran
Curing doesn't help produce rosin. tbh 'curing' is a bullshit notion in general, if your herb isn't top notch the moment it's dry, you did something terribly wrong.
Good rosin strains have fat greasy heads full of cannabinoids.

Live resin isn’t cured either
Curing is vital for flowers though imo
 

Hashmasta-Kut

honey oil addict
Veteran
Its essential for smoking the flowers pretty much, although the odd strain is pretty damn smooth right away. Curing will change the flavor of an extract pressed out of a bud, but is not vital or necessary really for flavor, although with some strains it is said a long cure enhances the stone markedly, so those resins would be appreciated as well.
 

JRace

Member
Curing doesn't help produce rosin. tbh 'curing' is a bullshit notion in general, if your herb isn't top notch the moment it's dry, you did something terribly wrong.

Good rosin strains have fat greasy heads full of cannabinoids.
Live resin isn’t cured either
Curing is vital for flowers though imo

My initial question was not under the asumption that curing makes resin - rather does curing affect the quality and yeild of rosin?
 

Pro Headies

Active member
Veteran
My initial question was not under the asumption that curing makes resin - rather does curing affect the quality and yeild of rosin?

Fresher the better when making rosin. 67% on a humidity gauge is about perfect. Dryer starting material makes less yield and older material makes darker looking rosin.

I have the same press and next size up cylinder prepress, work great. The bottle tech is a certain way to fold the micron press bags corners in. I find I get my highest quality rosin so far pressing dry sift.
 

PDX Dopesmoker

Active member
Has anyone done brick tech yet?
Heres a picture of two bricks in a 230ºF oven.
xr6df26.jpg


This is a bud in parchment with a representative sample next to it
QDu9UsR.jpg


After putting one brick down on the floor, putting the bud in parchment on top of that brick and then putting the other brick on top of the bud and standing on the stack for 30s, this is what it looked like
QaCAbQV.jpg


Inside the parchment
ZO3AKsZ.jpg


Closeup of the pressed bud
mHoOp5I.jpg


The hair iron seems to do a bit of a better job, but the dabs I pulled out from between those two bricks is just fine, very tasty.
 

PDX Dopesmoker

Active member
I think I need bricks with a smoother surface. I noticed that the rough texture of the brick pressed through the paper and left a textured surface on parts of the pressed bud. That probably means that there were areas of higher and lower pressure in plant material and I probably got a lower extraction percentage than I would have got with a nice smooth clay brick because of resin pooling in the lower pressure spots.
 

Mtn. Nectar

Well-known member
Veteran
some of last season BLR—Oaxacan pheno.....extreme fruity flavor/taste....exotic....done by Star Dabs......
 
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Ringodoggie

Well-known member
I am experimenting with pressing dry sift and all I get is black tar.

The sift is pretty dirty from sugar leaves and trim. I sift it though a stainless screen at about 200 microns.

I have tried bagless pucks and bags. Bags at about 90u and 25u. Temps from 160F to 220F. Usually 2 minutes or so in the press.

Evey time it's a dark black pull and snap that hardens to a snap. Yield is only about 20%.

I usually see such nice clean rosin from dry sift when others do it.






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Pro Headies

Active member
Veteran
Do you have a smaller micron like 160u to clean the 200u sift up? I press at 170f in 37u bags for kief which seems like your doing similar only thing I see different is I clean my sift a second time. I do 220u first then 160u. It really sounds like your 200u is bigger then 200u also but im just guessing.
 

Mikell

Dipshit Know-Nothing
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Can't stress the light hand enough. You can make gold sift rosin with just a 200u-ish screen easy peasy. If you want to agitate further for a lower quality stop and clean up the cream or work over a new surface.
 

Ringodoggie

Well-known member
I wait and wait for it to flow under light pressure and it never starts. Only when I apply ample pressure does it finally start to flow.

I'll try again and wait longer for the flow to start. How long do you wait at what temp until it starts to flow?




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Mikell

Dipshit Know-Nothing
ICMag Donor
Veteran
I mean a light hand with making sift.


For pressing hash I compress the brick visually by half. It usually starts greasing up the filter and then I work the pump very slowly allowing a rest inbetween each action. If not I give it a wee pump and see if the filter is greasing.
 

Ringodoggie

Well-known member
OK, I get it. Yeah, I definitely see the advantage to the light hand in sifting. I don't DO it.. but I UNDERSTAND it. LMAO

I used to use a card to sift through the screens and it all seemed to make it to the bottom. LOL Now, I use a soft brush and it works much better. I am going to try the static method.

Thanks again.









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