Mine is all pressed at 220 and it stays soft and sticky for about a week. If you want to extend the "life" of your resulting material, put it in the fridge, it will stay in whatever state it's in and not change. I put it into an air-tight container first to avoid condensation from temperature changes. I've pulled out stuff that was made months ago and the only difference was a little less flavor and smell.
good to see you back in these parts sunfire! that bit about thca vs thc content = butter makes a lot of sense lookin back.
but...wtf are we lookin at in those photos exactly?
Holy crap I havnt been in here in like a year! 300+ pages god damn!
Heady blunts and hmk still here that's awesome! Is Ester essence still here?!? I owe him a press still and intend on following through with that. God damn hair iron in a vice grip revolutionized my world!
Sunfire I was wondering where you were, thanks for the shout out, i love the rosin running from the plates. Directional flow is truly the answer to get the rosin away from the heat. I got a HF A frame press and took my waffle iron apart for the heat and attached some aluminum plates and pressed what i had for last year. I didn't do near the experimenting you did, it looks fantastic...
Harvest endeavors indeed! May it be a bountiful season for all.
It is "possible" that too low of temps is also not good.
This is certainly a strain dependent variable I can assure you.
Yeeeeheeeeeee heeeeeee heeeeeee!!!!! Bounty abound!
KONY -
Did you apply load to it right away?!? Did you read the entire manuals and all the literarure?
It's customary to stroke the cylinder completely in and out 5 times before putting any load on it to lubricate the internal side walls and seals first.
Since they sent you new gear, did you fill and bleed the new cylinder properly? Could be air in there.
Dake isn't exactly a high grade press to begin with. Some 20 ton shop presses cost 2k. I understand it can be a budget issue.
Also, for everyone, no rosin press designers are giving out proper safety and care info. These hydraulics are not meant for holding load for extended periods of time. Never, absolutely never exceed 80% of the rated amount of force or pressure. It's not just about seals, the steel will fatigue over time. I have seen a lot of dake cylinders leaking from the same fitting that goes into the cylinder. That's from metal fatigue holding too much force for too long. Practice incremental pressure application and temps that allow for shorter presses. Low temp flower presses are not that glorious really and it's bad for the equipment. Myself and several others have noticed a less complete terp profile at 160-180F with flowers and opposed to 200-220F. The yield is much lower too.
Once upon a time everyone including myself thought the lower the temp and higher the pressure the better. Well it's been proven by many people and in my own research that there is such a thing as too much pressure. In my research I've found one really doesn't need more than 1k psi. 220F at 2k psi yielded less than 1 percent more than 220 at 1k psi. I did these experiments with 3 different strains, several times. @trichome_he8d on ig has been doing great data collection. He does share openly too mucheap but we often have long private conversations. He says he can get about 80% of the oil that will come out with only 600 psi with flowers. It is "possible" that too low of temps is also not good.
When I have time I'm gonna get analytical on the terpene profile theory cause I've talked with several people who have noticed the same thing with really low temp flower presses.
The point is, the hydraulics need maintenance and care. Oil should be changed every 400 hours. Never ever exceed 80% rated load. New cylinders pump 5 complete up/down cycles before applying and load. Try to hold higher pressures for as little time as possible. Don't assume manufacturer properly bled the air.
Go onto the bva hydraulics website and read the manual for their cylinders and also there 100 page or so general catalog. They provide an abundance of information. I'm not doubting it may not be in the dake manual. But lubricating and bleeding the cylinder is crucial in initial operation.
I would start with calling dake and explaining to them the situation and seeing what they say
does anyone have a good source for 37µ or lower polyester screen, or what are yall using? So far the only sources I could find didnt have prices and mash bags at mash710.com but they see overpriced, 50 bucks a yard....