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Nectar of the Gods nutrients, anyone try them?

Levitationofme

Well-known member
Sunday, April 24, 2016 Page 12
Athena’s Aminas: 0.5-0-0
Foliar Feed
Root Drench
Ingredients: Natural water soluble amino acids. Derived from Protein
Hydrolysate
Product Details:
Every plant needs certain compounds for growth beyond soil, light, water,
and CO2. Plants can use more amino acids than they can find or synthesize
in their natural environment. If amino acids are not available, plant growth will slow based on
lack of the essential tools for continued cell production. Athena’s Aminas provides a readily
available amino acid source of nitrogen to optimize protein production and allow for maximum
growth rates. By adding an amino acid source of nitrogen, you enable your plants to build
proteins as quickly as they are able. When using Athena’s Aminas, you can expect to see faster,
healthier growth, resulting in bigger, more vigorous plants. Aminas are key to starting protein
synthesis in cells.
Features:
• Grows more vigorous plants with greater ability to resist pests and diseases.
• Overcomes one of the most common limiting factors to plant growth.
• Allows for faster and healthier growth.
• Achieves maximum plant cell production.
Athena’s Information from Scott D. Ostrander ~ Pure L-Amino acid liquid, 22 L-Aminos
designed for cell building and nutrient uptake. Act like a Nitrogen but does not stretch, elongate
or stress out the plant.
Athena’s Tip:
Some growers say that they reduce Athena’s along with some of the other ‘N’ nutrients late in
flower when they are trying to lower the nitrogen load, however, amino acids are important in
late flower. Amino acids are the building blocks to proteins and proteins are what develop the
flower. The N in Athena’s is so low (0.5%) most flowers and genetics have no negative effect.
The flowers need a little nitrogen to develop all those sugar leaves. Cutting out N and amino
acids completely is essentially robbing the plant of an element and compound it does need. Just
more or less at different stages of growth. It may be recommended to cut it out with some
growers because we have found that a specific genetic/strain, Cookies especially, really like to
find nitrogen and stay green. If you are wanting to pull back on your nitrogen in flower, you
should look more at Medusa’s Magic. One other thing some growers do to limit Nitrogen for
Nitrogen sensitive varieties is to utilize Triton's for aminos more than Athena's. Instead of upping
Athena's from 1 to 2 TBL/gal in mid-flower as it shows on the schedule, up Triton's Trawl
instead.
Sunday, April 24, 2016 Page 13
Demeter’s Destiny: 0-0.5-0
Foliar Feed
Root Drench
Product Details:
Demeter’s Destiny is more useful than any synthetically derived cal/mag.
Synthetic calcium and/or magnesium products are not desirable because
they are also applying nitrogen to your crop in the form of calcium nitrate
and magnesium nitrate.
Magnesium deficiencies in soil and coco mediums are completely solved by applying Demeter’s
Destiny. The calcium phosphate and chelating acids naturally chelate the magnesium already
present but locked in your soil medium and then deliver them to the plant in a non-metal form.
Features:
• Helps to carry all nutrients into the plant.
• Improves nutrient availability and cell wall integrity.
• Encourages solid stem growth to prevent stem breakage.
• Promotes the cleanest, sweetest, most aromatic produce.
• Offers microbes and root systems balanced forms of calcium.
Demeter’s Information from Scott D. Ostrander ~ The answer to Cal/mg deficiency, along with
Herculean Harvest, that isn’t a nitrogen form. This is a calcium phosphate, that isn’t derived
from bone meal. Demeter’s Destiny is a liquid calcium, digested from milk products and we use
an organic acid to digest the calcium molecules and the residual chelation materials in the
Demeter’s are designed to digest magnesium naturally from coir fiber and peat moss. It is very
effective as long as there is minimal salt present in the root zone. If the salt level builds up
around the roots stomata, then the plants ability to naturally extract calcium and magnesium from
the coir fiber is hindered. Great Calcium supplement to go with other nutrition regimens.
Salt buildup can be remedied by initiating a Herculean Harvest flush pH’d in the mid 6’s. This
calcium flush will tie up excess salts and turn them into organic compounds that need to be
broken down by a microbial field before the plant can access it again.
Sunday, April 24, 2016 Page 14
Bloom Khaos: Calcium Facilitator
Foliar Feed
Root Drench
Ingredients: Kelp extract (Ascophyllum nodosum), gamma (proprietary
ingredient)
Product Details:
Bloom Khaos is Nectar for the Gods’ patent pending secret weapon for
flower production and alleviating hidden hunger. When using Bloom
Khaos as a foliar feed in Veg, one should notice more flower sites, larger, denser flowers, and
superior color, flavor, and aroma. Bloom Khaos improves plant health and vigor while reducing
stress at crucial times of the plants’ life cycle, such as: transplanting, flower transition, and prior
to taking cuttings. Bloom Khaos works best if used daily as a foliar spray in the early stages of
growth and up to a few weeks into flowering. After that, it works well as a water-in additive.
Foliar spray up to twice a day in vegetative cycle and as little as once a week to see the benefits
of stronger stems, shorter internodal length, and ultimately more vigorous flower sets.
Achieving maximum weight yields when using Nectar for the Gods nutrients will require feeding
the maximum dosage rates of Bloom Khaos and Herculean Harvest. Use Bloom Khaos as a foliar
feed during vegetation and early flowering and as a watered-in nutrient additive during late
flowering.
Bloom Khaos Tip:
When using Bloom Khaos, watch for calcium deficiencies: curling leaf tips, “taco-ing” leaf
edges, or curly-q leaves. To remedy or prevent calcium deficiencies and to fully unlock the
potential of Bloom Khaos, we recommend using the following Nectar for the Gods products with
Bloom Khaos: Herculean Harvest, Demeter’s Destiny, Aphrodite’s Extraction, and Olympus Up.
Please refer to the Nectar for the Gods feeding schedule for guidelines on application rates.
Bloom Khaos Tip2:
Mixing nutrients with Bloom Khaos will work, but the longer the Bloom Khaos sits with other
things, the less reactive it becomes in the plant. It wants to react. And it wants calcium. I
personally do Khaos all on its own. Even if I want to foliar feed other components, I just foliar
feed them twice in a day, once with the bottle of Khaos, and once with my other secret
concoction. ~ Scott D. Ostrander
Note: Do not use this product without organic calcium as it can quickly cause deficiencies in
your plants.
Features:
• Calcium-Facilitator.
Sunday, April 24, 2016 Page 15
• Reduces plants stress.
• Encourages more flower sites.
• Yields larger and denser flowers.
• Grows stronger and thicker stems.
Bloom Khaos Information from Scott D. Ostrander ~ Where do I start with this product? You can
see it on You Tube, and all I can say is that when foliar feeding with this be sure to always have
adequate levels of liquid bone meal going into the root zone at the same time. When using the
Khaos, having calcium phosphate and calcium bicarbonate available to plants is extremely
important. Mixing the Khaos with any salts will tie up the calcium and make it less available.
The best balance to driving the Khaos is increasing the Herculean Harvest at the same time as
increasing the Khaos. Those two go hand in hand for flower development and overall weight.
Bloom Khaos acts as a calcium facilitator, a calcium magnet if you will. When Khaos is sprayed
under the foliage, it triggers the plants want for calcium for cell development and cell division.
As a foliar in Veg, the Khaos Foliar and Herculean Harvest watered in, work together creating
tighter flowering sites, more branching and aggressive fruit stacking. When these two products
are in balance, it enhances the stage which the plant is currently in. Use at a minimum of every
other day. Once the plants are in the bloom stage, and you begin to apply it to the root zone, this
combination will promote harder flowers, heavier weight and richer oils. One trick the gardeners
have figured out is the driving force to gain weight in the fruit is to slowly increase the doses of
Khaos along with the application rate of the Herculean. The more Herculean we can get to
relocate in the fruit, the heavier the fruit will be. In Denver we see the test results come back
from our commercial growers and what they have found is that the plants sprayed with Khaos
and fed lots of Herculean Harvest had higher levels of active ingredients in the fruiting bodies
than the control plants that were left to the regular recipe without Khaos.
Use Bloom Khaos as a soil drench the week prior to final flush. Do NOT use a calcium nitrate
with Bloom Khaos because the nitrate will create a thinner cell wall and you don’t want to be in
the 4th week of flower and pumping your plant full of nitrogen (any nitrate is a nitrogen base)
Also, the active ingredient to Khaos is undiscovered by science. It is a patent pending compound
that our scientist has developed after thirty years of plant science and research. The active
ingredient is a calcium facilitator that promotes cell development and cell division.
Feed chart shows foliar feed Bloom Khaos from Veg to week 3 or 4 of flower. You can go later,
just spray lower side of the plant. When you go past that, then you can use 1 tsp up to 1 TBL per
gallon. Plant will not get too much of Bloom Khaos as long as you supplement properly with
Herculean Harvest. Find that special number that works for you. As a guideline, if you add
Bloom Khaos at 1tsp per gallon to every feed, you need to up HH 20-30% from what the feed
chart says. If you are going to go to 1 TBL of BK, add 1-3 TBL more of Herculean Harvest.
If you run out of Herculean Harvest, do NOT use Bloom Khaos again until you get Herculean
Harvest back into the root zone. If you’re using a TBL of Bloom Khaos and you’re not feeding
enough HH, you may see calcium deficiency.
There is enough calcium in the Herculean Harvest, Demeter's Destiny and Olympus Up to meet
the Bloom Khaos needs. If you are not using Demeter’s Destiny in your feedings or Olympus Up
Sunday, April 24, 2016 Page 16
to pH, then you may need to be supplementing even a greater amount of Herculean. However, a
low pH will still prevent all that calcium from being available.
Q. Can you elaborate on the amounts of Herculean Harvest and other items that help to facilitate
the calcium needed to help Bloom Khaos reach its highest potential for the plant during its late
flowering cycle? You had mentioned 6-8 TBL per gallon in the last few weeks. Please be as
specific as you can to help me get a better idea.
A. This is a loaded question for sure. Every environment, gardener, garden, plant strain etc. etc.
are different. What we recommend as a guideline is for every 1 tsp per quart of Khaos you
should be watering in at least 2 tablespoons of Herculean to offer the adequate amounts of
calcium. As you slowly increase the Bloom Khaos dilution rate, you will want to balance the
calcium needs with the Herculean. When I am playing with a new genetic, I see how far I can
push each one. I slowly increase both of these products until I see signs that they are starting to
not accept it all and at that time I do a plain watering once, then back the dilution to the last
documented happy feed, and maintain that until the flush cycle. ~ Scott D. Ostrander
Q. Can you please give me another quick crash course on the use of Bloom Chaos in Veg as
opposed to Bloom? Should I start with as little as a 1/4 dose in veg?
A. Bloom Khaos is a calcium facilitator that, when applied to the foliage, promotes the uptake of
calcium to promote cell building and cell division. When Khaos is used during the veg stage, it
promotes more branching, less elongation and thicker stem walls. This is beneficial in veg
because it promotes tight inter-nodal flower spacing so when you transition into flowering the
flower sites start closer together and as the plants stretch towards the HPS color spectrum in
bloom, the flowers have a better chance of stacking and growing into one another forming large
top flowers. – Scott D Ostrander
Q. Is there anything else I should know before spraying?
A. There have been reports from some growers that certain strains of cannabis don’t take well to
Bloom Khaos in a foliar spray. There have been a few reports of ‘anything Kush’ is touchy with
Khaos. Also, one grower noticed that Magnesium hogs (which also tend to be Calcium hogs)
along with nitrogen sensitive plants don't seem to fare as well with the Khaos foliar feedings as
others. There are likely some exceptions, but just something that seems to show some
correlation. However, we all should know correlation is not causation.
Sunday, April 24, 2016 Page 17
Olympus Up: Liquid Limestone
Foliar Feed
Root Drench
Ingredients: Ground limestone (natural calcite) in liquid form
Product Information:
Olympus Up is the Nectar for the Gods pH up product unique to the
industry created from nanosized limestone suspended in water. Limestone
is a rock made of the minerals calcite and aragonite, which are different
crystal forms of calcium carbonate. Most calcium carbonate is composed
of skeletal fragments of marine organisms falling to the bottom of an ocean and becoming a
fossilized layer of rock. Calcium carbonate has been a staple for organic gardening for a long
time but the ability to get instant availability for pH balancing and microbiology is new. Using a
new process to get an extremely small particle size this calcium source is more available to
microbiology while still being in a pure rock form.
By using liquid calcium as a pH adjusting component, you will add more calcium to your plants’
cell structure, promoting cell wall integrity. Residual Olympus Up in the soil will increase
aeration, promote microbial activity by offering a food source for the soil biota, and contribute to
nutrient delivery. Olympus Up is essential when using Herculean Harvest. We recommend using
Olympus Up with Herculean Harvest to form an amazing calcium food source for soil microbes.
They may also be used together for a more efficient flush, either at the end of your growing
cycle, or in new potting medium to stabilize pH and prepare for planting.
Olympus Up Information from Scott D. Ostrander ~ This is our answer to pH up. It’s a nanolimestone
that is solubilized. It is pure rock in liquid form. We do not like the cheap versions
because they are simply a potassium hydroxide that have a tendency to kill microbial life in the
soil. We make a liquid calcite limestone pH adjuster. This serves two major purposes. First, the
calcium bicarbonate adjusts the pH of the solution and adds a desirable form of calcium for
nutrient uptake. 2nd, the portion of Olympus that isn’t fully digested is designed to enter the root
zone and attach itself to the medium so that when it is being broken down by the microbial field,
their waste product, which is often an organic acid, will be buffered by the undigested limestone
preventing acid drift in the soil. This was made for koi ponds to remove algae, clarify water and
buffer the pH of a koi pond. Frank, who designed Olympus up, had a koi pond in his backyard,
made a pH up out of limestone, puts in 4 capfuls per 100 gallons. It’s clear as a whistle and no
more algae or seaweed.
****NOTE: *****Below are the remaining, non-essential additive
enhancers and what they are designed to do.
As far as the other products below, not essential, but important for many growers. – Scott D.
Ostrander
Sunday, April 24, 2016 Page 18
Aphrodite’s Extraction: 0-1-0
Foliar Feed
Root Drench
Ingredients: Dextrose, Sucrose and Glucose. Derived from Monopotassium
phosphate
Product Details:
You have a short time at the end of your plants life cycle to sweeten your
fruits and make them the most desirable. Aphrodite’s Extraction provides a
rich blend of a proprietary blend of sucrose, fructose, chelated nutrients, vitamins, and organic
acids to promote a thriving microbial population and strong, healthy plant growth. In addition to
calcium, microbes need carbon in order to manufacture complex proteins for normal growth and
reproduction: low carbon equals low microbial activity. Sucrose is one of the most available
forms of carbon for a plant. When sucrose and fructose are blended with proteins, they become a
microbial feast essential to plants’ microbiological processes. The organic nutrients in
Aphrodite’s Extraction are naturally chelated for increased availability to the plant which
strengthens your plants resistance to disease by helping to promote photosynthesis.
Aphrodite’s Extraction Tip:
Customers who use Aphrodite’s Extraction have experienced dramatic flavor improvements
when applying it in the last weeks of the plant’s life cycle. The addition of sugar, and calcium
from complimentary Nectar products, allows the plant to process more sugars to improve its
ability to procreate.
Features:
• Experience dramatic flavor improvements when applying it in the last weeks of the plants
life cycle.
• Use as a microbial food source instead of molasses to protect your microbiology when
you aren’t brewing. (when brewing, always use molasses)
• Allows the plant to process more sugars to improve its ability to procreate.
• Provides organic acids necessary for enzymatic activity.
• Complete balance of vitamins A, C, D, E, B1, B6 and B12.
• Increases in disease resistance and yields.
Aphrodite’s Information from Scott D. Ostrander ~ Naturally, in fall, as the crop translocate all
the sugar that the chlorophyll has created during it’s season, and translocate them into the fruit to
sweeten them up and make them more desirable. Indoor, you rarely get to the fall cycle in the
plants life. We run them through and they are done, they are often predominantly still green, and
they haven’t started to turn yellow and they haven’t moved any of that sugar that you spent all
that time and energy creating. If you are that guy, we’ve made you photosynthetic sugar in a
bottle. It’s 100% translocation. It will go through the roots to the tip of the plant. Your plant will
direct Aphrodite’s Extraction wherever it needs to go. It helps secrete out the resins and the oils
and the intensity of the flavor. This one is cool but doesn’t need to be used all the way through. It
Sunday, April 24, 2016 Page 19
won’t hurt to use it all the way but if you’re simply trying to enhance the final product, then
applying this in the last weeks of feed and then the last week of flushing, you will promote richer
stronger flavors and enhanced aromas. This product is derived from calcium’s simplest sugar,
Dextrose and sucrose. It is in such an available form, the plant can absorb it and relocate it
directly to the site it as needed. This carbon compound is the same as the sugars produced from
the breakdown of the photosynthetic retain. We like to call it liquid Fall. It sweetens up the fruit.
I use it as a microbial tea compost starter. Use it as a food source instead of molasses. NFTG
started doing biological tests, studying the differences between the digested carbons of
Aphrodite’s Extraction and the carbon in Molasses using a microscope. They found that the
carbon from molasses is huge. Molasses is a super complex long chain of sugars into a
microscopic organism. In other words, it’s a lead blanket. So while you’re feeding molasses to
the top of your plants, and you’re wondering why you have to keep inoculating your mycorrhizae
that you spent $300 a pound on, it’s because you’re choking them with a carbon chain that they
can’t possibly break down. Aphrodite’s Extraction is a predigested form of the same sugar, it’s
just predigested into smaller bites. It speeds up compost.
What do carbs/sugars do for plants? We know that the microbial life feed off the carbohydrates,
but what does it do for the plant?
For the cellular level, It’s the energy, it’s the life force, it’s what the plant has to create through
chlorophyll to create the energy to grow and become healthy and strong so if you’re not
producing the right type of sugar through the vegetation and through the foliage, you have to
have some form of sugar, it has to be the right type of sugar and have the sugar in the correct
form, whether it is dextrose or sucrose. That helps the translocation of nutrients and the
availability of nutrients through energy inside the plant. You’re basically feeding the biological
activity but you’re not feeding the plant when you use molasses. You’re not feeding the plant at
all, it can’t feed because it’s too big. You are literally waiting for the microbes to break that
down, so if you do multiple dilutions of that, you’re just choking out your microbial field. You
can foliar feed AE, and the microbes will feed off of the sucrose and dextrose like it’s crack.
Using molasses will kill the mycorrhizae that I had colonized the whole time. ~ Scott D.
Ostrander
Are you saying I shouldn’t ever use molasses, even in my Teas?
Scott D. Ostrander ~ So I just want to be clear on my Monster Garden video about molasses. I
still use and recommend molasses in my teas for feeding the microbes in the water and in the tea
solution. The reason for this is because molasses is FAR cheaper then Aphrodite's, FAR FAR
FAR cheaper, and the long chain carbon that molasses has is beneficial in teas because it offers a
bigger meal for the microbes that lasts much longer in the solution. Using molasses in the teas to
feed the microbes can and will buy you 24-48 hours of microbial feeding. We do not promote the
use of molasses as a soil drench because of the size of the carbon chain. We have seen it
suffocate the mycorrhizal field rendering them useless or hindered in nutrient absorption.
Aphrodite's Carbon is a digested oligosaccharide that is made up of many mono and
polysaccharides that are derived from milk fats. These saccharides have the same properties as
the saccharides in the plant produced from chlorophyll to sweeten up fruit, giving it a higher brix
content. Now the downfall of using it in a tea is that because it is so extremely digested already,
it makes for one fast meal for the microbes in the tea machine which in turn can run out,
Sunday, April 24, 2016 Page 20
rendering the microbes hungry and food-less. Once the microbes run out of food to consume,
they turn on each other and eat the population down. So you can still use the Aphrodite’s in the
teas, you just have to feed them considerably more often which means you are buying more,
which really only benefits us. So please feel free to save your money and use molasses in the teas
and Aphrodite’s to feed the soil.
Calcium Syrup – Harvest Moon Organics Brand
Foliar Feed
Root Drench
Ingredients: (coming soon)
Product Details:
Rumor has it that this product will be called Persephone when it is
bottled under the Nectar for the Gods Brand. It can't be sold in stores
outside the state of Oregon, until NFTG gets the labels registered in
each state.
Calcium Syrup is our answer to not using Cane Sugar molasses and replacing it with a smaller
carbon chain from tree sap. It's just calcium sulfonate from tree sap. The Calcium Syrup is easier
to digest by your microbes than molasses. Calcium syrup has trace levels of sulfur that promote
terpene profiles and the calcium lignin which it’s made from will feed the microbes in the soil.
Similar to Aphrodite’s Extraction, except the Calcium Syrup is molasses based instead of simple
sugar based. ~ Scott D. Ostrander
Calcium Syrup Tip: I feel molasses is better for feeding microbes in the tea and the calcium
syrup feeds the microbes in the soil. Smaller carbon chains are easier on the soil tilth. Molasses
makes a good tea food as it is free roaming in water, has a longer feed life span than the calcium
syrup and by the time most people use their teas, the carbon chains on the molasses have been
digested and broken down. I personally still use molasses in my teas only. In addition, Molasses
contains magnesium. ~ Scott D. Ostrander
Mega Morpheus: 0-2-0
Foliar Feed
Root Drench
Ingredients: Worm Castings, seabird guano, humic acid (leonardite) and
Kelp Extract (derived from Ascophyllum nodosum (Microbial Food))
Product Details:
Mega Morpheus is a fully digested source of readily available natural
phosphate, and the only guano tea on the market today that is free of grit
Sunday, April 24, 2016 Page 21
and sand. Our unique process completely filters out grit and sand, offering a consistency suitable
for soil, soilless, and hydroponic growing mediums. Nutrients in Mega Morpheus are made
totally available through digestion and chelation, increasing nutrient delivery and uptake. When
using Mega Morpheus, you can expect an increase in photosynthesis, vigor and health, as well as
flower size and flavor.
Mega Morpheus is the best available guano product on the market from an ecological perspective
and plant usability standpoint. Seabird guano is much more preferable to bat guano both from the
horticultural and ecological perspective. The bat guano has much larger salt content and less of
an inherent ability to release those bonds where seabird guano has much less salt with better
biodegradability than bat guano has. Bat Guanos are typically harvested using destructive
techniques that cause permanent damage to the bats and thus permanent damage to a vital part of
the ecosystem. Very few guanos are harvested humanely and NFTG recommends when you
purchase guano tea, use the seabird guano for the above reasons.
Features:
• Finely filtered.
• Ultra-digested.
• Unique in the industry.
• Made with certified organic worm castings.
• Humanely harvested ingredients.
NFTG Mega Morpheus Information from Scott D. Ostrander ~ Guano tea. It is a digested Seabird
guano with amino acids and Organic certified worm castings that we chelate off the humic acid
on castings from veggie fed worms. Highly filtered, highly digested seabird guano and worm
casting tea. High load of phosphate. Super clean and filtered and totally available, but not
necessary to grow beautiful plants.
Why doesn’t NFTG use Bat Guano?
The beauty of bat caves is; you got your bats and then you’ve got this layer of shit, but right
between the bats and this layer of shit are a whole field of three high wall to wall cockroaches.
So every bat that shits on a cockroach, the cockroach eats that shit and then shits out cockroach
shit, which you make bat guano tea out of. So essentially it’s cockroach tea. Every time they
extract an entire cave of guano, 9 out of 10 of these manufacturers don’t care how they get it,
how it’s done, or how it’s manufactured or processed, “give me the damn bat guano”. So they
bash out the side of a cave walls, extracting all of the guano out using front loaders, leaving all of
those bats to never come home again and then they die because they don’t have homes. They
don’t re-colonize with other bats. If they don’t say bat conservancy on there, if they aren’t paying
a huge amount of money to protect the bat conservancy in this world, they are part of the
problem in this world. So Mexico right now is just a big hillside with smashed in side walls
where they extract as much of the guano as they can and then they go on to the next hillside.
Essentially, Seabird guano is sustainable and bat guano contains too much salt. ~ Scott D.
Ostrander
For more on Bat Conservation, go to www.batcon.org
Sunday, April 24, 2016 Page 22
Triton’s Trawl: 0.5-4-0
Foliar Feed
Root Drench
Ingredients: Fish bone meal, BioAg Fulvic Acid
Product Details:
Originally formulated as an alternative for Herculean Harvest, Triton’s
Trawl is for those gardeners who want the benefit of a liquid bonemeal
but do not wish to utilize a product derived from farmed livestock.
Ultimately this product has become one the most unique and potent products in the Nectar line.
Rich in calcium, Triton’s Trawl delivers flavor, aroma and color to the finished product. It can be
used alone or to enhance the effects of Herculean Harvest.
The cartilage that makes up fishbone has more of an amino acid base that triggers the plants
response to generate color and aromas in a different way than other animal proteins. Oregon’s
Only Organics found that this difference is due to the fact that there exists an entirely different
chain of amino acids in fish protein.
When in the test trials of this product their employees saw amazing enhanced colors and aromas.
After they noticed these favorable results from the fish protein they began to incorporate the
Triton’s Trawl with the Herculean Harvest during feedings and saw even bigger fruit size along
with new aesthetics that put the fruit on another level.
The residual fishbone in the soil becomes a great food source for the microbial field for an
extended period of time making the microbes rich in nutrient consumption as well as delivery to
the plants.
Features:
• Made from only fish proteins.
• Digested and hydrolyzed whole fish.
• Brings out the aromas and flavors of fruits.
• Works with Herculean Harvest to get better yield.
Triton’s Information from Scott D. Ostrander ~ Liquid Fishbone Meal. Unique product in the
industry. A digested cartilage form of calcium phosphate. It doesn’t have the same bone structure
or rock structure as Herculean Harvest has. Herculean Harvest will build your fruit with an actual
rock substance. This one, being a cartilage is going to have more of an amino acid base. By
itself, it has a small flower that has a ton of everything else. But using Herculean Harvest at a 2:1
ratio to Triton’s Trawl gives you the best of both worlds. Again, not necessary, but what you will
find from this product is that the unique, seagoing amino acid chain that fish cartilage has,
creates and enhances the plants appearance and aromas. I would recommend not using it for the
first couple of rounds and then trying it for the last couple of weeks on the third round so you can
see the difference.
Sunday, April 24, 2016 Page 23
Poseidonzime: 0-0-0.5
Foliar Feed
Root Drench
Ingredients: Kelp extract (Ascophyllum nodosum)
Product Details:
Poseidonzime is a liquefied seaweed product digested through an
enzymatic process that allows for maximum availability to plant tissues
and microbiology. Rich in organic acids and over 60 naturally occurring
major and minor nutrients and amino acids. Kelp is a good natural source of potassium and
cytokinins, which promote cell division in root and plant growth, and affect apical dominance,
axillary bud growth, and leaf senescence (biological aging). Designed to be a natural chelator,
Poseidonzime helps release previously unavailable nutrients and other substances in the soil for
plants to use. Known as one of the best natural plant growth promoters, Poseidonzime reduces
plant stress while increasing flower clusters and overall vigor in the plants’ reproduction.
Poseidonzime inhibits growth in populations of mites, aphids, white flies and root-knot
nematodes by increasing your plants natural ability to fight pests and disease.
Tip: Foliar spray as much as 3 times a week during the vegetative phase to give your plants the
nutrients they desire through the leaves and stems as well as through the medium. Use as little as
once every 2 weeks during the vegetative phase to notice increased health of your organic plants.
Features:
• Contains organic amino acids.
• North Atlantic seaweed based nutrient.
• Organically feeds leaves and stems from the outside.
Poseidonzime Information from Scott D. Ostrander ~ Now spelled with an I (zime), it used to be
spelled with a y (zyme), but that’s a no-no in California and Oregon. Liquid Sea kelp. It’s a cold
water North Atlantic kelp, it’s a digest, very similar to any other liquid seaweed in the industry.
Simply a potassium rich liquid seaweed. Some soils strip potassium or tie it up and this would
help correct that issue. There’s nothing else really special about it other than the amino acids
that are added to it.
Sunday, April 24, 2016 Page 24
Pegasus Potion: 1-2-0
Foliar Feed
Root Drench
Ingredients: gamma (proprietary ingredient used in Bloom Khaos),
Feather Meal and phosphoric acid
Product Details:
WOW! This stinks, but for good reason. Pegasus Potion is a new concept
of nitrogen delivery. It is a nitrate free, totally available protein source of
nitrogen. Extraction through enzyme hydrolysis makes Pegasus Potion more biochemically
viable, preserving amino acid integrity by breaking proteins at specific sites Nitrogen proteins
are extracted from feathers and digest into their simplest, most available forms. Pegasus Potion
can be used as an extremely effective foliar spray as well as a root drench to promote greening
and vegetative growth. If you feel you need more nitrogen and don’t want the burn or the stretch
then Pegasus will show you how it’s done.
A little warning to all who are thinking about using Pegasus Potion: IT SMELLS REALLY
BAD. We have done everything in our power to quell the stench, and nothing we have tried will
mask the smell. Sorry.
Pegasus Information from Scott D. Ostrander ~ This is a pure nitrogen derived from digested
feather meal. It has 2% protein based nitrogen so it is impossible to burn with it and the plants
won’t elongate like a nitrate will do. Be fair warned however, that this product is digested down
to its simplest protein, and nothing wants to bond with it. Even our mint oil will not touch the
smell of liquid feathers. Smells awful, but highly effective.
Pegasus Potion on the feed chart is ‘as needed’ means that we, as a company, put all of our focus
on the availability of all the plant nutrition in the form of calcium and calcium bonds. We are
confident that most plants, with the exception of corn and maybe tomatoes, can access all the
nitrogen they need from the soil, from Medusa’s Magic and from the atmosphere. But for some
farmers that doesn't seem or feel like it is enough and they wanted more. So we produced a
digested protein Nitrogen source from feathers so that the growers had a tool to get their plants
greened up without pumping them full of nitrates. So the ‘as needed’ is, if you feel like you need
more nitrogen, then here is our nitrogen only product to enhance that. Many, many, many
gardeners use it as part of their arsenal. I absolutely love it (minus the smell) and I always have a
small rancid bottle of it in my truck so if I ever get into a road rage incident, I use it as method of
retaliation. Simply follow the person home or work to see where they park their car. Then come
back later and pour a capful down into their air intake near the windshield so that they can enjoy
the smell of how they drive. LOL. Sometimes I am not that nice. Usually I am.
I can say that mixing the Pegasus and the kraken together not only makes an eight legged flying
hours that smells like dead fish that just shit itself before death, but one hell of an amazing foliar
feed in the veg cycle. Hell of one for sure.
Sunday, April 24, 2016 Page 25
Pegasus Foliar Feeding Tip: In Veg, you can mix Pegasus and Kraken together (Scott says it's
amazing). 1 tsp of Pegasus per quart and 1 tsp of kraken per quart in Veg he says makes a hell of
a foliar spray. Alternate (in a separate foliar later in the day or another day) that mix with a foliar
of Bloom Khaos, which is a calcium facilitator (which means you should be ensuring you have
enough calcium in your soil drench so that the plant can take up the calcium) and you'll be
growing like a champ!
The Kraken: 0-4-0
Foliar Feed
Root Drench
Ingredients: Crab Shell meal, Shrimp Shell Meal, Phosphoric Acid
Kraken Information from Scott D. Ostrander ~ Kraken will end up being
higher up on the list. I would dare to say before Aphrodite’s Extraction,
and after Olympus up. It is actually crab and shrimp shell. No meal, no
meat no nitrogen. Through the digestion process we are breaking down
the shell into available forms of Chitin and phosphorous.
Using the Kraken and Bloom Khaos together (alternating times) as a foliar will promote a
synthesis in the plant that will help promote more natural oils and resin. Because we are using
just the shells, we have found that the Chitin in the shells when reacted with the Active
ingredient in Khaos, it is synthesizing plant oils. Pretty damn cool what this stuff is capable of.
For the Kraken 1-2 tsp in Veg, and up to 1 TBL in Bloom.
Kraken Tip:
I just wanted to share this feedback from a grower that gives us very helpful notes on what he
says they see when applying the Kraken.
"Hey Scott I wanted to follow up with you on our progress thus far with the crab/shrimp meal so
far we have noticed the following benefits. Increased resistance to environmental stress but more
importantly a dramatic increase in pest resistance this accompanied by a solid organic
preventative will give any bug a run for it's money. We had a garden with pretty bad mites we
saw tremendous headway against them while doing consistent sprays in combination with 10ml
per gal crab/shrimp added to the root feed we have almost completely rid the garden of bugs
after 7 days of treatment. We have also seen it valuable to plants in stressful situations such as
transplant adding this to our Transplant feed or young plant feed at 2.5 - 5ml per gal depending
on size and level of stress we have seen expedited bounce back, increased health, and vigor. In
addition to those we have seen the benefit of additional calcium throughout veg even in our very
large veg plants we have not needed to exceed 15ml of Herculean (so we can save for flower)
when properly supplemented. We have also seen an increase in bud sites, stronger growth, as
well as darker green foliage throughout. We have even seen some damaged leaf tissue begin to
regenerate. We will be in flower shortly so I will be able to give you our observations on the
Sunday, April 24, 2016 Page 26
stage soon I'm interested to see the benefits from transition all the way to ripening and will keep
you updated throughout I can say we love this product and will definitely be keeping this in our
regimen the variety of benefits seems to increase every time we use it we appreciate the
opportunity to test these products it's a blast to play with some new toys."
This type of feedback is extremely helpful in developing our products. Without it, we don’t
really know what it's doing in your garden. SO if you have feedback always feel free to share. It
only helps us get better at what we do. ~ Scott D. Ostrander
Hygeia Hydration: Yucca Extract
Foliar Feed
Root Drench
Ingredients: Yucca extract (saponin extracted from Yucca schidigera)
Hygeia’s Hydration is our blending tool for the Nectar for the Gods line
of nutrients. Rich in saponin, Yucca acts as a wetting agent to aid in root
penetration for maximum nutrient uptake. The organic acids in Yucca
contribute to chelation of other nutrients, making them more available to
microbes and to your plants. Hygeia’s Hydration can be used for those pesky soils that dry out
and will not rehydrate with regular watering. You can also use Hygeia’s Hydration as a wetting
agent for foliar feeding nutrients, pest control, and fungal sprays. Yucca extract has inherent
insecticidal properties in addition to being a great surfactant spreader you get the anti-mold and
anti-fungal benefits from the saponin.
Note: Because of the high saponin levels, this product behaves like a soap when agitated and
should not be used for heavily aerated reservoirs. (brewing teas)
Features:
• Encourages microbiology by creating a saponin coating over organic nutrients.
• Makes organic soil elements more available to microbes.
• Assists in root penetration & nutrient absorption.
• Contributes to chelation of nutrients.
• Saponin extracted from Yucca schidigera.
Hygeia Information from Scott D. Ostrander ~ Foliar wetting agent for bug sprays and nutrients.
It helps rehydrate your mediums. If you use a lot of coco, it’s a good idea to use this in soil
drench. Peat moss, you can get by with less. I know with coco fiber when moist, doesn’t want
to let go of water, but when dry, it will not absorb water, it’s hydrophobic, peat moss is the same
way. If you ever let your medium go beyond moist, to a dry state, it’s really hard to get it to take
that water back in to the medium. Hygeia Hydration will help speed up that process so that
you’re not pouring valuable nutrients down the side walls of your container and out of your
garden. I never, ever, ever recommend watering in the tray to rehydrate up. You’re just pushing
Sunday, April 24, 2016 Page 27
salts up further and deeper into the medium. Which will, a couple of weeks from now, harder to
get back out. Always rehydrate from the top. It has been brought to our attention in drier
climates, drier/hotter rooms, places where the environment has a tendency to dry up the medium
quicker than normal, we’ve had a lot of requests for a wetting agent that is natural that can be
placed into the medium so that the nutrients won’t just rush right through the medium and into
the saucer. We came up with a liquid Yucca. It’s a wetting agent, the nice thing about Yucca is
it’s a saponin, very similar to like a soap. It creates bubbles when agitated, you don’t want to put
that in your compost teas with an air stone because you will have a giant frothy head. What we
found is that the mycorrhizae fungi really, really like the saponin because they have a tendency
to create an ‘m&m type coating’ around each one of the elements in the other bottles of NFTG. It
sticks to the nutrients so that your mycorrhizae field can tap into these little held food nutrient
bubbles, absorb those in, and wait for the signals from your plants to translocate or exchange
waste for waste. Mycorrhizae fields are just one giant digester and they never force feed your
plant, they deliver what the plant calls for. That’s what you call the perfect symbiotic
relationship. Yucca root has high levels of saponin and Native Americans used it for years to
make soap and shampoo. Saponins-group of chemicals with detergent-like properties that plants
produce to help them resist microbial pathogen such as fungi and certain bacteria and viruses.
Hades Down: 0-1-0
Ingredients: Phosphoric acid
Product Details:
Hades Down is a pH adjusting liquid used to lower the pH of your nutrient
solution. Hades Down chelates elements in the nutrient solution into
stable, slow releasing forms which are easier for plants to absorb.
Providing readily absorbed natural molecules, Hades Down has the ability
to stimulate microorganisms and plant growth. This stimulation will
directly affect increases in CO2 production, photosynthesis, beneficial microbes, and plant vigor
and health. When mixing fertilizers in a reservoir, Hades Down will help prevent nutrient
solution fall out.
Note: The ideal pH for nutrient solutions for Nectar for the Gods is 6.0 – 6.2 in Veg and 6.2 –
6.4 in Flower. Most gardeners don’t have a reason to use Hades Down. But it is here for those
who have very high pH tap water or for those of you who may need it to pH your teas..
Features:
• Unique product to the horticultural industry.
• Chelates elements into slow releasing forms.
• Prevent nutrient solution fall out.
• Safe and natural product.
Sunday, April 24, 2016 Page 28
One Shot Granular- 3-10-2
Ingredients: Worm castings, ferrous sulfate, bone meal, fish bone meal,
kelp extract, potassium sulfate, alfalfa meal, feather meal, kelp meal, rock
dust, soybean meal, and natural calcite (limestone), beneficial bacteria and
fungi, molasses-wrapped to granule.
Also contains mycorrhizae:
Glomus intraradices...0.5
spores/gram
Ready Availability & Slow
Release:
Apply 2 TBL per gallon of soil every 3-6 months
throughout the growing season.
Sufficient Feed: 1 cup per 5 gallons of soil
Aggressive Feed: 2 cups/gallon & top dress every 2-4 weeks
Quantity per bag Sufficient Feed @ 1 cup
per 5 gal
Agrressive Feed @ 2 cups
per 5 gal
4 lb - 9 cups 45 gallons of soil 22 gallons of soil
12 lb - 28 cups 140 gallons of soil 70 gallons of soil
25 lb - 56 cups 280 gallons of soil 140 gallons of soil
450 lb - 112 cups 560 gallons of soil 280 gallons of soil
*When top dressing, massage it into the
 

Levitationofme

Well-known member
I grow with ‘X’ or ‘Y’ Nutrient Line. I want to make the full switch, but I am nervous.
We would suggest that you always test one plant or a small sample of your grow. Stick with
what you know on the majority of the garden and test new nutrients on one or a couple. It's easier
to try and fix one plant’s problems instead of an entire garden, especially when you’re getting
comfortable with a new line. As always, feel free to reach out with questions, the Nectar for the
Gods Growers group is very helpful.
I have the Sample box, is there anything else you recommend?
Honestly, the only additive I would recommend for your first round, outside of what is in the
sample box, is the Aphrodite’s Extraction. Leave the rest on the shelf for now as I believe you
will get great results with the same kit. Then in the future you can add a product or two the
recipe so you can see what each additional product does and why we make it. Not having them
all the first few rounds is better because most of the additives in the pro line are sold to fix
something, enhance something or simply enough gardeners requested it, so we made something.
~ Scott D. Ostrander
Why do the labels say derived from Leonardite? I thought Nectar contracted with BioAg
Humics?
It is true, NFTG uses BioAg Humics. Shale versions (Leonardite) of Humic are not as bioavailable
as Humics from fresh water vegetation. The downfall about reading the labels is that
the generic “derived from” statement for most Humic products will say Leonardite. This is not
necessarily the case, it is just what the agricultural departments allow manufacturers to say. The
only way to find out is to contact the manufacturer to see where their humics are derived from.
NFTG Humics are definitely derived from fresh water vegetation and are superior to Leonardite.
What size bottles should I purchase?
As far as sizes, I would start with quarts and gallons of the essentials and maybe 2.5 gallons of
Athena’s and Herculean. They sell fast and once people figure out how much they will use, they
go right for the bigger, more economical sizes. We recommend shelving our Olympus up not
only as a pH adjuster but it is indeed a food as well. Doesn’t sell in the pH section but when
faced next to Herculean Harvest it moves fast. The importance of the Olympus Up is due to the
fact that we don’t use salts to preserve the line, instead we use organic acids. These acids work as
digesters as well as stabilizers and it allows us to add valuable calcium calcite to the solution to
adjust pH. Acts like a calcium delivery system. ~ Scott D. Ostrander
Sunday, April 24, 2016 Page 33
I’m following the feed chart, but my nutrient mix is 1800 ppm in one feeding?
A lot of this will be determined by plant variety. I have some growers that say anything over 900
is a waste and some growers that want you to peg the TDS meter and still want more. Some feed
in bloom between 2000-2400ppm, some go higher. Most gardeners using Nectar average about
1400-1800ppm per feed in bloom. This is not a “stay within this ppm range” nutrient line.
How does Scott Ostrander Feed?
There are so many schools of thought with this. Do you want more medium for enhanced
microbial activity? More aggregate for superior drainage? Do you want to feed more often, but
want the organic matter? So here is my two cents on the matter.
I too enjoy feeding more often and the result in that is more finished product. I run the #4 as is,
right out of the bag, and the trick I have found to get to that point of daily feedings is to feed less
volume, more often. For instance, when I first transplant for a 6 inch pot to a 3 or 5 gallon
container, for the first three to six days, I only give them enough food/water as I did when they
were in the 6 inch pot. And I only water the root ball and about 1-2inches outside of the ball.
Slowly I increase the volume of food and the distance from the root ball until I reach the edge of
the pot. By doing this I am training the root system to dive into the medium to look for additional
moisture. The more the roots grow down and out to the container walls, the faster they will fill
the pot. By the time I am into flowering, they should be taking a good amount of volume, let's
say around a gallon of food a day. I continue this throughout the flowering cycle and by the end
of the fourth week, into the 5th week, I am feeding them every single day and up to 2.5-3 gallons
of food a day (now in 15 gallon pots). We have found that most gardeners have a tendency to
over water their plants in the early stages f the plants life. When this occurs, it tells the plants that
the medium is potentially harmful and lacking oxygen. If the plants sense that there is to much
moisture in the surrounding soil, they will avoid growing into it in fear of getting root rot or
other fungal diseases. I have seen many up rooted plants that when you direct the medium at the
end and you can easily identify the original root ball from the transplant, and then there are
barely any roots in the middle of the medium and a layer of roots surrounding the edges of the
pots, this is a sign that the roots raced right through the soaked soil to get to the edge so that they
can breathe. Our plants aren't bog plants and are not fans of wet feet. So if you are careful at the
beginning, and water less volume more frequently, they should fill the container by the end. ~
Scott D. Ostrander
I see recommendations for ppm readings, what ppm conversion factor are Nectar growers
using?
Electrical Conductivity (EC) and Parts Per Million (PPM) are the two most common methods to
determine the strength of a hydroponic solution. We won't go over the differences between EC
and PPM in this guide. There are plenty of websites that explain it in great detail. Most TDS
meter manufacturers in the industry use one of two conversions. There is the 442 conversion
Sunday, April 24, 2016 Page 34
(40% sodium sulfate, 40% sodium bicarbonate, and 20% sodium chloride). The 442 conversion
is approximately 700 x EC in millisiemens (mS) and then there is the NaCl conversion
(sodium chloride). The NaCl conversion is approximately 500 x EC in millisiemens (mS).
Nectar for the Gods uses the 442 conversion factor when recommending ppm readings. It is
important for everyone to remain on the same conversion factor when posting numbers to the
group. If you use an EC meter or TDS Meter with the NaCl conversion, you will have to convert
its reading for an accurate result. Consult the meter manufacturer’s user guide or contact the
manufacturer of your meter to see what conversion factor they are using.
Example: If you already have a NaCl meter, you don't need to purchase a new one. If you take
your readings using an NaCl (ECx500) meter you can convert the reading to 442 (ECx700) scale
by multiplying the result by 1.4. This isn't an exact conversion, however, it will work and you
don't have to be so precise. We're talking about an ideal range for slurry. If, for whatever reason,
you are unable to do the math, you can refer to the chart below to see if you are in the range.
CF EC
ms/cm
ppm 500
TDS
(ECx500)
ppm 700
(ECx700)
2 0.2 100 140
4 0.4 200 280
6 0.6 300 420
8 0.8 400 560
10 1 500 700
12 1.2 600 840
14 1.4 700 980
16 1.6 800 1120
18 1.8 900 1260
20 2 1000 1400
22 2.2 1100 1540
24 2.4 1200 1680
26 2.6 1300 1820
28 2.8 1400 1960
30 3 1500 2100
32 3.2 1600 2240
34 3.4 1700 2380
36 3.6 1800 2520
How do I perform a Slurry test?
This test will give you a general snapshot of the current conditions. Wait for your soil to dry out
in the top 2”. If you just fed, it is not dry. Wait for it to dry out... can't stress that enough. Don't
try this test with wet/moist soil. Take the soil sample from the side of the pot, 2" down to keep
from disturbing the roots too much. Obviously if you dig deeper than 2”, you will want to ensure
the soil is dry at that depth as well.
Sunday, April 24, 2016 Page 35
One ounce of soil to one ounce of pH neutral 7.0 water (distilled or RO Water with 0ppm). It's A
1:1 ratio. If you don't use 0ppm water, you need to subtract the ppm of the water you use with
your final ppm. So if you use 25 ppm water, subtract 25 from your final slurry ppm. Once you
have mixed the soil and water together, let it sit for 15-30 minutes to stabilize before inserting
your meters.
Immediately prior to inserting your meter, give a good stir using a glass stirring rod or some
other clean instrument. Using a TDS Meter, ensuring that the meter is inserted into your slurry to
a depth that will give you a correct measurement, measure the ppm of your slurry mix. The
purpose of this slurry test is to check ppms to see if your plants are efficiently eating. With this
NFTG line, numbers above 500 means they are starting to not eat (salt buildup). Above 900 they
are not eating, they are pissed (time to flush). Below 200 they are eating and are hungry (bump
up the feedings a little). Below 100, starving (bump up the feedings even more). Between 200-
400, they are really happy with the amount you're feeding. (don't change anything if your plants
look happy) At this time, you should also do a pH test on the slurry (most people do both ppm
and pH.) Stir the slurry mixture and insert the pH meter fully into the slurry mix. Write it down,
post it here. Nectar for the Gods performs best when the medium is in the pH range of 6.3-6.7
and the soil ppms are between 300-500." If your soil sample comes out with a lower pH and/or a
higher parts per million, then a flush with Herculean Harvest will help correct these issues."
When should I flush?
When in doubt, flush it out. If you are noticing signs of deficiencies like calcium, potassium,
magnesium or nitrogen, do not run out and buy a bottle of pretend cures. Nine of out ten times
these deficiencies will directly be related to your soil’s PPMs and pH numbers being out of
whack. This would be a good time to do the “slurry test” and react accordingly. The calcium
sources in the Herculean Harvest and Olympus Up will help tie up excessive salts and neutralize
the acids and bring your pH back into range.
Is it ok to use additional nutrient lines with Nectar for the Gods?
I just want to remind everyone, when you are all adding more and more stuff to the Nectar line
and start having issues, come clean on what you are using so that we may all help a little better.
Nectar doesn't play well with too many others so before you start accusing nectar products for
screwing your plants up, lets also look at the other stuff you are putting in and not telling us. I
have seen a handful of issues lately and after 10's of questions only to find out that they were
also adding in "X" which is not compatible with the line. I am getting a little tired of getting
scapegoated because you wanted to try a PK booster and torch your plants and then that's
Nectars fault. Just saying. The more we know, the better we can help. ~ Scott D. Ostrander
Sunday, April 24, 2016 Page 36
Why is pH important with this Nutrient Line?
The pH is important in how, and even if, nutrients are available to the plant.
Because we use a plethora of organic acids and chelating materials the pH levels tend to be on
the low side. By design, we make our products acidic out of the bottle for two main reasons:
Having a low pH in the bottle helps preserve the product or put it to sleep without the use of salts
or other chelating agents. Secondly, the calcium and magnesium lockouts that everyone in the
industry stresses over is because most nutrient lines are either salt based or have salt
preservatives. Most of the cal/mag issues we see in the use of coir is blamed on the coir fiber for
consuming or tying up the calcium. The funny thing is that it's not the coco robbing them of
calcium rather, the salts building up and blocking the calcium from entering the plant. That is
when the industry cal/mag products come in to play. Most of those cal/mag products are Nitrate
based, which require a lower pH to enter into the plant. This lower pH allows the plant to fix its
cal/mag deficiency by absorbing the nitrogen as a salt. Hence why the industry says you need to
run a lower pH in coco. But with the Nectar, our calcium forms don't change from a soil garden
to a soilless garden. The calcium forms we use are much larger than that of a calcium nitrate and
require some larger stomata to be absorbed through. And because calcium is such a reactive
molecule it wants to bond to anything it can get a hold of. We still would like to see the addition
of a compost tea, microbial tea or some form of microbial inoculate to speed up the chelation
process. The microbes will aid in breaking down the calcium bonds and make those portions and
elements available through microbial digestion. So I still recommend treating a coco/perlite mix
as a soil as far as the pH and feedings of. The roots will still need that pH stimulation to promote
more aggressive uptake. But keep in mind that a lot of soilless and coco manufacturers (branded
companies) in our industry also charge their coco fiber with products like cal/mag, or salt water
composting. These additive can add unwanted slats into the medium and that is where the slurry
test is helpful. I always check the new coir fibers PPM's before planting in it and have found
fresh coco, right off the brick to be anywhere from 150-1300PPMs. Hence why I always check.
And midway through veg and midway through bloom, I check the soil from the containers and
have found that taking a couple of TBLS of soil from about 1.5 to 2 inches down next to the
container wall gives me a good reference of what is going on throughout the entire medium. ~
Scott D. Ostrander
Sunday, April 24, 2016 Page 37
Foliar Feeding Recipes:
1) Feed early in the day or in the evening, when the sun/light is weaker. This will keep the
sun/light from burning the leaves, as water droplets can act like a magnifying glass.
Stomata are more likely to be open during these times as well.
2) Do not spray if the temperature is over 80F or in the bright sun
3) Use a surfactant. Surfactants reduce the surface tension of the water, spreading it over the
leaf surface. More surface area = more absorption. Yucca is an awesome organic
surfactant.
4) Hit everything. Don’t forget to spray the tops and bottoms of the leaves for maximum
absorption. - remember, stomata are abundant on the undersides of the leaves.
5) When mixing up your formulation, whether mineral, organic fertilization or compost tea,
use non-chlorinated, well oxygenated water. Bubble air through chlorinated tap water for
2 hours or leave it to off-gas overnight.
6) Make sure mineral ingredients are dissolved and the solution is very dilute. Chemicals in
high concentration tend to ‘burn’ foliage and leave a salt residue. Suggestion is to
NEVER add any salt base nutrient into your teas.
7) Young transplants prefer a more alkaline solution (pH 7.0) while older growth like a
somewhat more acidic (pH 6.2) spray. If you are concerned about Olympus up (calcium),
you can use baking soda to raise pH and apple cider vinegar to lower the pH of your
spray.
8) Spray with a fine sprayer for foliar fertilization and a coarser, low pressure sprayer for
compost teas. The microbes in compost tea need large protective water droplets. Harsh
ultraviolet rays can kill microbes in compost tea.
***** The calcium in this line has little to no effect as a foliar feed. Always better as a root
drench. You can pretty much foliar with everything in this line except Calcium Syrup, Demeter's
Destiny, Herculean Harvest, Olympus Up and Triton's Trawl.
Switching from a salt based Nutrient Line like Botanicare (1 Gal)
Flush the soil with HH for 2 or 3 feedings in a row. Until the flushes are complete, you can foliar
feed her. pH the foliar feed to 6.5 – 6.7:
10ml Gaia Mania
10ml Medusa’s Magic
5ml Zeus Juice
10ml Athena’s Aminas
This will put valuable proteins and natural nitrogen and potassium into the foliage which will
help her transition into a new nutrient.
‘Green Up’ Foliar Spray (1 Gal)
10 ml Gaia Mania
10 ml Athena’s Aminas
10 ml Zeus Juice
10 ml Photosynthesis Plus
15ml Hygeia Hydration
15ml BioAg Ful-Power
Sunday, April 24, 2016 Page 38
‘Green Up’ Foliar Spray #2 (1 Gal)
20 ml Poseidonzime
15 ml-20 ml BioAg Ful-Power
15 ml Hygeia Hydration
Foliar Spray #3 (1 Qt)
1 teaspoon Simply Silica (powder)
5 ml Athena’s Aminas
5 ml Bud Charge (Supreme Growers)
5 ml BioAg Ful-Power
1-5 ml Bloom Khaos (make sure you work up to this amount of bloom khaos)
Veg Foliar Spray Day #1 (1 Qt)
5 ml The Kraken
5 ml Pegasus Potion
5 ml BioAg Ful-Power
5 ml Hygeia Hydration
Veg Foliar Spray Day #2 (1 Qt)
1 ml to 5 ml Bloom Khaos
5 ml of BioAg Ful-Power
5 ml of Hygeia Hydration
*It is important to remember, to be on the safe side, that you should end your foliar feedings
somewhere around week 3 of flower. Do some people continue past week 3? Sure. But you’ve
been warned.
* Ful-Power is a must with all foliar applications as it helps the other components penetrate into
the cells, amplifies their effects and improves efficiency.
Tea Recipes:
Even though you are running Nectar, we still would like to see the addition of a compost tea,
microbial tea or some form of microbial inoculate to speed up the chelation process. The
microbes will aid in breaking down the calcium bonds and make those portions and elements
available through microbial digestion. Compost tea is probably the easiest (and most affordable)
way to add billions of aerobic microbes to your soil. However, if you make compost tea with a
poor quality compost, you will have poor quality compost tea. Compost tea should ONLY be
made with the highest grade of compost. Therefore, I suggest that you make your compost teas
using Grain Fed Worm Castings® to ensure a very high quality tea. NO tea will EVER be any
better than the quality of the compost microbiology you start with.
Do all NFTG Growers use Teas? No. Some use bottled and pre-packaged inoculants. However,
to get a better idea of the advantages of teas, note that a teaspoon of quality compost contains
about one billion beneficial microscopic organisms and a teaspoon of organic tea is populated by
a field of about four billion organisms. Your plants will benefit immediately from teas. Think of
Sunday, April 24, 2016 Page 39
teas as organic steroids for your plants. Teas are not only beneficial for your plant roots, but also
for leaves. Foliar feeding teas adds additional benefits of a microbial coating on the leaf when
you spray it. This basically muscles out any bad microbes. Some growers dilute their tea
mixtures for foliar applications, while others insist that they foliar with full strength Be sure to
cover at least 70% of the leaf surface with the tea-spray, ensuring that you get both the tops and
bottoms.
“Not all of these benefits will be observed in every case of tea application, perhaps because the
compost did not contain the necessary organisms. The necessary organisms may not have been
extracted from the compost, or did not grow in the tea or may have been killed during removal
from the compost or during the growth process. Other reasons for lack of the necessary
organisms in the tea may be that toxic materials were leached from poor compost, or the
compost became anaerobic and killed the aerobes during the brewing cycle, or some other factor
was not optimal.” – Elaine Ingham
The downside to Compost Tea is that you have to make it yourself, you have to plan ahead, you
must ensure that your equipment and environment run at optimal levels and you must
clean/sanitize equipment after brewing and prior to the next brew cycle. Any human error in
measuring, brewing, equipment or ingredients may possibly affect your crop for the worse. Some
of this can be remedied by using “burn-neutral” ingredients (like earthworm castings, kelp,
molasses etc). Also, some of the things you need might not be available at your local hydro store
and you may need to do some shopping around. If this makes you uncomfortable, then it’s
seriously worth considering a premixed solution. Supreme Growers makes effective and easy
instant compost teas. These are kelp and molasses based powders that fully dissolve in water
becoming active instantly. Their products include a mycorrhizae transplant tea, a vegetative
compost tea, a blooming/fruiting tea along with a few other products. No other equipment to buy,
just stir and pour. Have a look at the ‘plays nicely with Nectar’ list of companies at the bottom of
this guide for details about Supreme Growers products.
If you’ve read this far, then you are interested in making your own teas. Let’s start with some
tips.
TIPS:
• Avoid using socks or pillowcases for straining/brewing, since their fibers are too tight
and will likely filter out your fungi when straining your tea. When filtering your tea, be
sure your screen it as close to 400 microns as possible. Paint strainers, from your local
hardware store, work quite well for this function.
• The brewing process takes about 24 hours and requires application within 4 hours after
aeration is complete. Brew for 24 - 30 Hours at ambient temperatures between 60 and 80
degrees F for optimal results. If colder brew for 30-34 hours if warmer brew for 20-30
hours.
• Water - all recipes should use either R/O water, rain water, distilled or
dechlorinated/chloramine free water. If using chlorinated water run the air pump for an
hour or two to release any chlorine in the water.
Sunday, April 24, 2016 Page 40
• Blackstrap Molasses - An excellent source of potassium and magnesium during
flowering; Be sure to use only unsulfured molasses. This is because sulfur kills microbial
life, especially fungus.
• Grain Fed Worm Castings - Worm Castings, by themselves are amazing. They are highly
biologically active and they also have trace minerals (that are in a form immediately
available to plants). There are enzymes, nematodes, humic acid, and other organic matter
within them as well.
• Mycorrhizal fungi – “Do not add myco products prior to brewing. These fungi do not
grow in tea solutions, although spores and hyphae will be extracted into the solution from
the compost. The heating process during composting often kills the spores, so although
present, they will not be viable. It is usually of some benefit to add an inoculum of
mycorrhizal spores to the final tea solution when the tea is to be used for soil drench or
root applications. The food resources present in tea may cause mycorrhizal spores to
germinate after a few days, but if the germinated spores do not find active roots within 24
to 48 hours of germination, they will die. Therefore, spores should be added to the tea
just before application to the crop, not at the beginning of a tea brew.” – Elaine Ingham
• You need to add foods to feed the bacteria and fungi so that they can grow when they
have been extracted from the compost. Different foods feed bacteria and fungi. Bacteria
prefer the simple sugars (molasses), whereas the fungus prefer more complex
sugars/carbohydrates derived from various organic matter (fish hydrolysate and humic
substances). Be sure to use the correct sugars/carbs for your brew. And, of course, putting
too much food/ingredients in the water can keep the water from reaching the MINIMUM
8ppm level.
• Very Important! Add nothing with a preservative or antibiotic in it!
• If the compost tea foams excessively you can add a small amount of cooking oil.
• The finished compost tea should be used within 4-5 hours before the microbes use up all
the oxygen and it goes anaerobic. If you cannot apply the tea for any reason, simply run
the aerator for a few minutes every hour until the tea is applied. If applying bacterial or
fungal additives follow the instructions on the pack.
Ingredient Feeds Ingredient Feeds
Fish Emulsion Bacteria Kelp Bacteria/Fungi
White Sugar Bacteria Rock Dusts Bacteria/Fungi
Corn Syrup Bacteria Humic Acids Bacteria/Fungi
Maple Syrup Bacteria Fish Hydrolysate Fungi/Bacteria
Cane Sugar Bacteria Ground Oatmeal Fungi
Molasses Bacteria/Fungi Yucca Fungi
Fruit Pulp Bacteria/Fungi Soybean Meal Fungi
All recipes below are based on 4 Gallons of water using a percentage of ingredients: 2.38%
Grain Fed Worm Castings, 0.50% blackstrap molasses (use no more than 0.75%), 0.063% fish
hydrolysate, 0.19%-0.25% (MAX) Kelp Meal, 0.063% soft rock phosphate powder (grind
granules in a coffee grinder). There is no guarantee that your compost tea brewing will be
successful using these recipes and ingredients. More details @ http://www.microbeorganics.com/
Sunday, April 24, 2016 Page 41
One trick you can use is pre-feeding or pre-activating Compost which is not so fresh by mixing
in a small amount of wheat bran and moistening with very diluted black strap molasses, loosely
covered with cloth or paper towel 24 hours ahead of starting brewing. (approximate ratios, ½
Tablespoon of wheat bran per cup of Compost. Mix the Blackstrap Molasses at 1.5 ml to 1 quart
of water prior to moistening. If you have bokashi, you can mix it at the same rate as the wheat
bran, and moisten with water. This mixture is said to decrease the brewing times from 36 to 24
hours.
Believe it or not, the Basic, Starting-point and possibly the Balanced Nutrient recipe tea are
likely the safest teas you can brew. The two simple recipes, if using an efficient tea maker and
good quality compost will result in a microbial population perfect for growing with Nectar. This
is not to say that the other recipes aren’t beneficial, but without a microscope to verify, it’s
mostly a guessing game. You want the tea to have an earthy aroma, if it smells putrid with foul
odors (signaling that the tea has gone anaerobic), then you will want to start over.
Basic, Starting-point, Bacterial Compost Tea (5 gal)
5 Gal bucket filled with 4 gallons of water to allow for foaming
1.5 cups of Grain Fed Worm Castings or high quality compost in a 400 micron bag so as not to
clog the compost tea brewer.
2.5 ounce unsulfured Blackstrap Molasses
Brew for 24-36 Hours and no longer than 48 hours at ambient temperatures between 60 and 80
degrees F for optimal results. Use as is, or for additional benefits, at the end of the brew cycle,
you can add Photosynthesis Plus or Mega Morpheus or SLF-100 or if desired, any other Nectar
Nutrient.
Balanced Nutrient Cycling Compost Tea (5 gal)
5 Gal bucket filled with 4 gallons of water to allow for foaming
1.5 cups of Grain Fed Worm Castings or high quality compost in a 400 micron bag so as not to
clog the compost tea brewer.
10 ml Neptune Harvest Hydrolyzed Fish Fertilizer
2 teaspoons Micronized (soft) Rock Phosphate *: Fungus attach to the rock phosphate and grow
on it. Also a prime source for phosphorous, magnesium & sulfur.
*begin brewing, and check for extraction of the compost (brown color released into brew before
adding molasses or kelps). Addition of kelp adds micronutrients and some bacterial as well as
fungal food.
2.5 ounce unsulfured Blackstrap Molasses
2 to 2.5 Tablespoons Kelp Meal
Brew for 24-36 Hours and no longer than 48 hours at ambient temperatures between 60 and 80
degrees F for optimal results. Use as is, or for additional benefits, at the end of the brew cycle,
you can add Photosynthesis Plus or Mega Morpheus or SLF-100 or if desired, any other Nectar
Nutrient.
Sunday, April 24, 2016 Page 42
Ultimate Compost Tea (5 gal)
5 Gal bucket filled with 4 gallons of water to allow for foaming
1.5 cups of Grain Fed Worm Castings or Bu's Blend Biodynamic Compost or high quality
compost in a 400 micron bag so as not to clog the compost tea brewer.
½ cup fungal-dominated compost (mushroom compost)
1.5 ounce unsulfured black-strap molasses
2 to 2.5 Tablespoons Down to Earth Kelp Meal
1 ounce Humic acids
10 ml Neptune Harvest Hydrolyzed Fish Fertilizer
2 teaspoons Micronized (soft) Rock Phosphate *: Fungus attach to the rock phosphate and grow
on it. Also a prime source for phosphorous, magnesium & sulfur.
Brew for 24-36 Hours and no longer than 48 hours at ambient temperatures between 60 and 80
degrees F for optimal results. Use as is, or for additional benefits, at the end of the brew cycle,
you can add Photosynthesis Plus or Mega Morpheus or SLF-100 or if desired, any other Nectar
Nutrient.
Vegetative Stage Recipes
Veg Tea (Equal Ratio of Fungi to Bacteria) #1 (5 Gal)
5 Gal bucket filled with 4 Gallons of water to allow for foaming
1.5 cups of Grain Fed Worm Castings or Bu's Blend Biodynamic Compost or high quality
compost in a 400 micron bag so as not to clog the compost tea brewer.
10ml Humic acids
2 to 2.5 Tablespoons Down to Earth Kelp Meal
Brew for 24-36 Hours and no longer than 48 hours at ambient temperatures between 60 and 80
degrees F for optimal results. Use as is, or for additional benefits, at the end of the brew cycle,
you can add Photosynthesis Plus or Mega Morpheus or SLF-100 or if desired, any other Nectar
Nutrient.
Veg Tea #2 (5 Gal)
5 Gal bucket filled with 4 Gallons of water to allow for foaming
1.5 cups of Grain Fed Worm Castings
10 ml Neptune Harvest Hydrolyzed Fish Fertilizer
2.5 ounces unsulfured Blackstrap Molasses
Brew for 24-36 Hours and no longer than 48 hours at ambient temperatures between 60 and 80
degrees F for optimal results. Use as is, or for additional benefits, at the end of the brew cycle,
you can add Photosynthesis Plus or Mega Morpheus or SLF-100 or if desired, any other Nectar
Nutrient.
Veg Tea #3 – (5 Gal)
5 Gal bucket filled with 4 Gallons of water to allow for foaming
3 cups Alaska Humus Soil Amendment (Bountea, Ancient Forest, Denali Gold or other) in a 400
micron nylon mesh filter bag
10 ml Neptune Harvest Hydrolyzed Fish Fertilizer
Sunday, April 24, 2016 Page 43
100 ml of BioAg Ful-Power
2 to 2.5 Tablespoons Down to Earth Kelp Meal
2.5 ounces unsulfured Blackstrap Molasses
Brew for 24-36 Hours and no longer than 48 hours at ambient temperatures between 60 and 80
degrees F for optimal results. Use as is, or for additional benefits, at the end of the brew cycle,
you can add Photosynthesis Plus or Mega Morpheus or SLF-100 or if desired, any other Nectar
Nutrient.
Flowering Stage Recipes
Flower Tea #1 – (5 Gal)
1.5 cups of Grain Fed Worm Castings or Bu's Blend Biodynamic Compost or high quality
compost in a 400 micron bag so as not to clog the compost tea brewer.
4 teaspoons High Phosphorous Fossilized Seabird Guano (0-9-0)
20 ml Poseidonzime (liquid kelp) or 2 to 2.5 Tablespoons Down to Earth Kelp Meal
2 teaspoons Micronized (soft) Rock Phosphate
2.5 ounces unsulfured Black Strap Molasses
Brew for 24 - 30 Hours at between 60 and 80 degrees F for optimal results. If colder brew for 30-
34 hours if warmer brew for 20-30 hours.
Use as is, or for additional benefits, at the end of the brew cycle, you can add Photosynthesis
Plus or Supreme Growers or SLF-100 or any other Nectar Nutrient
Flowering Tea #2 – Fungal Dominant (5 Gal)
5 Gal bucket filled with 4 Gallons of water to allow for foaming
3 cups Alaska Humus Soil Amendment (Bountea, Ancient Forest, Denali Gold or other) in a 400
micron nylon mesh filter bag
10 ml Neptune Harvest Hydrolyzed fish Fertilizer (2-4-1)
100 ml of BioAg Ful-Power
2 to 2.5 Tablespoons Kelp Meal
2.5 ounces unsulfured Blackstrap Molasses
¾ cup to 1 cup of Ground/Powdered, 100% Natural rolled oats.
Approximately 3 days prior to brewing, grow the fungi to give them a 'head start' and allow
populations to multiply. To do this moisten the Alaska Humus (just damp, not dripping wet).
Grind up some simple proteins (fungal foods), such as oatmeal, oat bran, soybean meal or
powdered malt that has been run through a coffee grinder, and mix them in with the moistened
compost. The mixed ratio should be about 3-4 Tablespoons of fungal food per cup of Humus.
Place the mix in a light-resistant container, cover partially with a lid (leave it cracked at the very
least so it's not airtight), and then place in a warm, dark area. A seed-germinating mat placed
beneath the container will help this process along. After about 3 days at 80 F, you'll remove the
lid, and find a good bit of fungal mycelia (Santa’s Beard) throughout the compost. You can now
use this compost to brew your fungal tea. Discontinue brewing around 24 hours. Very easy once
you do it one time, and the plants love it.
Sunday, April 24, 2016 Page 44
Flowering Tea #3 (5 gal) – Fungal Dominant
1 cup of Grain Fed Worm Castings or Bu's Blend Biodynamic Compost or high quality compost
in a 400 micron bag so as not to clog the compost tea brewer.
1 cup Mushroom Compost
3 to 4 ounces Ground/Powdered, 100% Natural rolled oats.
2 to 2.5 Tablespoons Down to Earth Kelp Meal.
2 teaspoons Micronized (soft) Rock Phosphate *: Fungus attach to the rock phosphate and grow
on it. Also a prime source for phosphorous, magnesium & sulfur.
The earthworm castings, mushroom compost and kelp meal are first mixed together and made
moist. Mix in the powdered/ground up oatmeal and after about 3 days at 80 F the fungal mycelia
has grown on this blend and is ready for brewing. Place it in your tea bubbler for 24 hours with
some additional liquid (or water soluble) kelp/seaweed extract and Micronized (soft) rock
phosphate.
Cloning Tip:
Scott D. Ostrander ~ I personally use those rapid rooter plugs, not necessarily that brand, but that
medium. It is natural, easy on the plants and can be broken down and digested by the microbial
field in the soil. I prepare my moms by foliar feeding them for two days before the scheduled
cuts are to be made. The recipe I use to foliar feed mom with is the following: (per Gallon
Rate) 1 tsp Gaia Mania, 1 tsp Medusa’s Magic, 2 tsp Zeus Juice, 2 tsp Athena’s Aminas and 2
tsp of Poseidonzime. I focus on spraying the tops of the plants where I will be making my cuts
from. This foliar feed will put valuable nutritional reserves in to the foliage of the soon to be
clone, preventing the cut from wilting, starvation and water loss due to the fact that it has been
removed from the life giving root system. Having that extra nutrient reserve stored in the foliage
will give the cut something to process as it begins to form new roots. I continue foliar feeding
that same recipe once a day as they are in their done rooting. For me I have found that it has
drastically sped up the rooting process. With the exception of a couple finicky varieties, this
method works well for us.
Unofficial List of Supplements and Nutrient Lines which ‘play nicely’ with
Nectar for the Gods
***disclaimer: This list is in no particular order and Scott D. Ostrander has not given his
blessing for us to list any of these companies as compatible or ‘must have’ with this line. These
companies have simply been included in this list because they get the most traffic and quality
feedback from fellow growers on the FB page. Just because these nutrients/supplements ‘play
nicely’ with Nectar, doesn’t mean that you should go out and purchase the entire list and go
MAX feed on all, feeding every bottle with every feeding. If you are new to Nectar for the Gods,
the best advice is to use Nectar with SLF-100. Once you become familiar with the line, find out
what you might have been missing and browse this list for a beneficial addition to your garden.
We at Oregon's Only (Nectar for the Gods) have the philosophy that if we don't make it, we don't
bottle it. We have access to some great companies that manufacture great products, but we are
Sunday, April 24, 2016 Page 45
not middle man marketers, instead we just like to promote those companies that work great with
ours. (Scott D. Ostrander speaking about SLF-100, BioAg, Recharge and a handful of other
companies that he directly recommends on the NFTG Growers Facebook page)
SLF-100 – OMRI listed. SLF-100 is a living anaerobic bacteria that from my research and
experience is designed to breakdown insoluble forms of calcium from the soil. Subsequently it
also breaks down the gums that filter on the top of your containers when you ramp up the
Herculean Harvest feed rates. They utilize Bacillus thuringiensis for its ability to break down
nutrients and as an added side effect thuringiensis produces a crystalline protein that when
ingested by the larvae of fungus gnats, cuts the gut of the larvae effectively killing it. In addition,
the inoculants are designed to completely solubilize all forms of organic fertilizers from compost
to bonemeal to feather meal to salt based fertilizers. SLF-100 is nothing like Hygrozyme and is
in fact alive. It is currently being used in the remediation of calcium build up in oil pipelines and
solids build up in waste water treatment, on a small scale.
MicrobeLife – Photosynthesis Plus Shelf stable for two years. Enhances plant functions at the
foliar level and the root zone in both soil and soilless substrates. Enhances photosynthesis and
biological function by allowing plants to capture and utilize radiant energy more efficiently.
Speeds uptake and distribution of essential macro- and micro- nutrients required for all plant
metabolic functions and growth. Promotes plant vigor and reduces input costs while increasing
yields. May be used for indoor and outdoor with all soil and soilless media, including Coco Coir.
Compatible with all fertilizer programs. Always check pH and CF levels. Nourish-L A unique,
liquid conditioner derived from a highly decomposed organic humus deposit. Contains natural
carbon made up of marine animal carbon and vegetative carbon compounds, making it more
complex and superior to Leonardite sources as well as an amazing wealth of Cypress lignin—a
high-level food source for the beneficial fungi and bacteria—which strengthens plant cell walls
and enhances nutrient absorption and water-binding capabilities. 100% Verified Organic to
USDA standards. Enhances the ability of plants to absorb nutrients more efficiently, optimizing
plant functions and facilitates greater results using less nutrients. Aids in micronutrient uptake,
increases water retention and provides vegetative humic acids. Supplements water, mineral,
carbon and essential element requirements. Should be used with your regular nutrient and
fertilizer program. Works with all growth media and soil. RootDip Containing Ecto & Endo
Mycorrhizal Fungi. Specifically created for foliar applications, root dips and root drenches, this
supplement combines the high concentration of photosynthetic cultures with natural, rare earth
humates and essential elements for improved plant biology. Enhances metabolism plus increases
chlorophyll and nutrient availability. Works well with all nutrient/fertilizer programs and all soil
and soilless media. Vegetable & Fruit Yield Enhancer with Endo Mycorrhizal Fungi. A highly
active and balanced blend of microbes and humic substances that combines photosynthetic
cultures and essential elements. Formulated specifically to enhance the yield of vegetables and
fruit by aiding the plant’s ability to absorb nutrients more efficiently. Speeds seed germination,
root development and shoot outgrowth. Additionally, it increases nutrient value, enhances overall
plant vigor and yield. https://www.microbelifehydro.com/
BioAg – FulPower Purified fulvic acid that maximizes plant potential. A must-have for all
growers. Won’t effect pH, or ppm and works in all systems. CLEAN and POWERFUL!
Improves plant functions for better development of roots, flowers, flavors and fruits. Best use:
Sunday, April 24, 2016 Page 46
Superior for indoor growing and all foliar sprays. Use on seeds/cuttings through flush!, Ful-
Humix - Concentrated humic /fulvic soluble powder. 1 lb of Ful-Humix = 1-2 gallons of
competitors liquids. Improves soil nutrient retention and uptake for strong, healthy plants!
Best use: Regularly use in greenhouse and outdoor soils throughout season. Also, water into
your compost pile. TM-7- Seven micronutrients critical for plant success, plus concentrated
humic/fulvic powder for increased absorption and efficacy. Best use: Regularly use in
greenhouse and outdoor and/or in compost tea. CytoPlus - All the benefits of seaweed and
micronutrients enhanced by concentrated humic/fulvic powder. Best use: Especially beneficial
for key transitional periods, such as vegetative to bloom. http://bioag.com
Cutting Edge Solutions – Great for foliar feeding. Plant Amp™ (calcium) and Mag Amped™
(magnesium). Mag Amped also works as a root drench if necessary. Mag-Amped is an organic
magnesium and sulfur supplement derived from magnesium sulfate. Magnesium sulfate
increases flower size and scent. May be used in soil, hydroponics and for foliar feeding. Mag-
Amped is OMRI listed. A pure Magnesium chelate, which is easily assimilated by the plants.
Magnesium is the primary element involved in chlorophyll production. Chlorophyll essentially
equates to the source of a plants energy. Mag Amped amplifies the overall chlorophyll
production in plants. Extra Magnesium helps plants produce chlorophyll in lower light situations
(both in intensity and duration). Using Mag Amped in foggy, filtered, or low intensity light, as
well as short duration light cycles, helps to enhance a plants chlorophyll and in turn, can boost
the plants energy level. Plant AMP is OMRI listed calcium product and also registered with
CDFA as an organic input material. Calcium is the basis of cell wall development in a plant and
the organic Calcium in Plant AMP is extremely soluble, providing an easily utilized source of
Calcium. Plant AMP can be used throughout the entire growth cycle to optimize a plants growth
and is approved for organic food crop production. Plant AMP is also a fantastic foliar spray, it is
very "clean" leaving no heavy build-up or residue on the plant. Plant AMP can also be used in
conjunction with our full line of additives and base nutrients for custom foliar applications. If a
gardener is starting with a low pH source water (typical of R/O water), we recommend adjusting
to 7 before adding any fertilizers to the reservoir. http://www.cuttingedgesolutions.com/
Supreme Growers – 4 powder products, 3 liquid kelp/silica supplements. All products work well
on your TEA days, no brewing necessary, simply mix and feed. Myco Blast is our secret to
transplanting. Use it once whenever you transplant and it reduces stress and inoculates your roots
with a beneficial fungi, mycorrhizae. Soil Blast is great at breaking down fertilizers and salts to
make nutrients available for the plant to uptake them. Perfect for veg and breaking down soil/soil
amendments. Supre Myco Tea is our instant compost tea. Mix 1 packet into 1 gallon of water
and watch it foam like you just brewed for 2 days! We recommend hitting the ladies hard with
this in flowering. Kelp Blast is a catalyst for the microbes in Soil Blast and Supre Myco Tea.
Acts as a microbial food source and kick starts the colonies of bacteria. SupreKelp is a blend of
3 types of kelp with a rooting stimulant. This is our vegetative kelp supplement meant to grow a
massive root ball to go into flowering with. Bigger the roots bigger the fruits. Budcharge is the
same 3 types of kelp with amino acids and trace nutrients specific to flowering. Essentially it
gets your plants into flowering faster so they can pack on weight quicker. Simply Silica is a
pure potassium silicate supplement that reinforces the cellular structure in the plant. Allows for
better stress resistance and better plant structure to hold more weight. http://supremegrowers.us/
Sunday, April 24, 2016 Page 47
Recharge – “Lots of folks asking about Recharge and I'm glad to share some info and why I
think it's a great match up with NFTG. Recharge is a microbe powered growth stimulant that
relies on specific subspecies of bacillus, trichoderma along with mycorrhizae, kelp, humic acid
and molasses. It's my own formula that I developed with my partner (originally for my bamboo
farm) and it's the one trick that transferred perfectly to my private indoor gardening. The
difference between recharge and a compost tea is number of microbes. Compost tea is awesome
and introduces a diverse range of microbes in low concentrations, this is great for soil. In
contrast, Recharge delivers a few species of microbes in very high concentration, so the microbes
search for food, eat what they can, migrate to the rhizosphere and die with a full belly, ready to
be used as a food source for the plant on its command. We're not trying to establish long term
colonies of beneficials with Recharge. Instead we're trying to load the rhizosphere with nutrient
dense bacteria and fungi. All I can say is try it and you will see how well it works. I gave away a
few 8 Oz containers to some of the crew. I'm glad to send samples to your local stores. I'm a oneman
army and all I ask is that if you like the product please show me some support by asking for
it at your local grow store. Thanks NFTG Scott for such a legit product line that makes my
microbes look good!”– Scott Freedman, Real Growers -
http://www.realgrowers.com/product/recharge/
Full-On – by Grow Switch – Proprietary Nano-Based Biostimulant sets new levels of nutrient
uptake and utilization. Boosts plants ability to efficiently convert nutrients into new cell growth.
Reduces NPK Requirements by approximately 50%, lowering growing costs and reducing the
environmental impact of fertilizers. Increased Yields. Flush cycles reduced from weeks to days
Through a holistic and organic approach to horticulture, Grow Switch has created an entirely
new nutrient technology that is revolutionizing growing AND changing the game when it comes
to finished product. FULL ON is a major improvement to fruit quality that you have to taste to
believe! Studies in 2012 have proven new ground-breaking levels of nutrient uptake and cell
reproduction rates when used in conjunction with reduced levels of NPK-based fertilizers. Full
On increases the Nutrient Density in plants and produce. This means that you will be using less
resources and getting more bang for your buck the next growing cycle whether you’re a
commercial farmer or indoor garden hobbyist. http://www.growswitch.com
Hygrozyme - is designed to digest dying and decaying root mass and helps prevent root rot and
other problems associated to poor root health. If you’re in the #4 Soil running Nectar you should
not have to use Hygrozyme very often or at all. Some growers use this to recycle their soils
between cycles.
Mammoth P – Growcentia - Organically derived microbial bio stimulants that unlock nutrients to
maximize plant vigor and increase yield. The Mammoth product line supplements existing
fertilizer programs and are compatible with all growth media from hydro to coco to soils. We
screened billions of soil microbes using next-generation technology to identify a novel
combination of backteria that work in synergy to accelerate the release of phosphorous into plant
available forms by 30x. MAMMOTH P™ is the first organically derived microbial inoculant that
maximizes phosphorus and micronutrient cycling to maximize bud growth, increase yield and
enhance plant health. http://www.mammothmicrobes.com
(more to be added…)
 

peacetree420

New member
Wow, Levitaionofme... thank you greatly. Scott is the man, mad scientist for sure. Copied all this to a folder to read often, great info thanks again.
 
Nectar for the gods is stilling killing it! I'm using the advanced line with bloom khaos and substituting Tritans Trawl for Mega Morpheus. These plants also had slf 100 and microbe life c plus.

Here is Candyland from King Klone


 
Last edited:

Levitationofme

Well-known member
Yes, I use it.
I use as a foliar and in the nutrient mix.
Can I say definitely it's a game changer... No. Not experienced enough.
Recently I was in Colorado visiting a friends legal grow. He uses NFTG the Pro line
Many Big barrels of each product, including the Kracken. Very jealous of his plants

I had zero insect issues, and solid healthy plants. Ill never know what
would have been otherwise. But I will keep using it untill
 

Levitationofme

Well-known member
The Kraken: 0-4-0
Foliar Feed
Root Drench
Ingredients: Crab Shell meal, Shrimp Shell Meal, Phosphoric Acid
Kraken Information from Scott D. Ostrander ~ Kraken will end up being
higher up on the list. I would dare to say before Aphrodite’s Extraction,
and after Olympus up. It is actually crab and shrimp shell. No meal, no
meat no nitrogen. Through the digestion process we are breaking down
the shell into available forms of Chitin and phosphorous.
Using the Kraken and Bloom Khaos together (alternating times) as a foliar will promote a
synthesis in the plant that will help promote more natural oils and resin. Because we are using
just the shells, we have found that the Chitin in the shells when reacted with the Active
ingredient in Khaos, it is synthesizing plant oils. Pretty damn cool what this stuff is capable of.
For the Kraken 1-2 tsp in Veg, and up to 1 TBL in Bloom.
Kraken Tip:
I just wanted to share this feedback from a grower that gives us very helpful notes on what he
says they see when applying the Kraken.
"Hey Scott I wanted to follow up with you on our progress thus far with the crab/shrimp meal so
far we have noticed the following benefits. Increased resistance to environmental stress but more
importantly a dramatic increase in pest resistance this accompanied by a solid organic
preventative will give any bug a run for it's money. We had a garden with pretty bad mites we
saw tremendous headway against them while doing consistent sprays in combination with 10ml
per gal crab/shrimp added to the root feed we have almost completely rid the garden of bugs
after 7 days of treatment. We have also seen it valuable to plants in stressful situations such as
transplant adding this to our Transplant feed or young plant feed at 2.5 - 5ml per gal depending
on size and level of stress we have seen expedited bounce back, increased health, and vigor. In
addition to those we have seen the benefit of additional calcium throughout veg even in our very
large veg plants we have not needed to exceed 15ml of Herculean (so we can save for flower)
when properly supplemented. We have also seen an increase in bud sites, stronger growth, as
well as darker green foliage throughout. We have even seen some damaged leaf tissue begin to
regenerate. We will be in flower shortly so I will be able to give you our observations on the
Sunday, April 24, 2016 Page 26
stage soon I'm interested to see the benefits from transition all the way to ripening and will keep
you updated throughout I can say we love this product and will definitely be keeping this in our
regimen the variety of benefits seems to increase every time we use it we appreciate the
opportunity to test these products it's a blast to play with some new toys."
 

Levitationofme

Well-known member
Harvest of Ace seeds and Chem Dog with NTFG nutrients.

Harvest of Ace seeds and Chem Dog with NTFG nutrients.

I did the Panama grow with NFTG, I added Mammoth P once a week as well as Photosynthesis Plus added to weekly EWC Tea. Also Added a bit of SLF-100 and Ful-Power humic acid.

I grew in a soil mix I made myself with the recommended ratios of materials I got from Ace Seeds if I remember correct.

I followed the EC recommendations from ACE Seeds for the Panama
and was feeding at about 1.7 EC at the maximum.

After a few weeks of cure
Fat, Dense, Sticky and stanky Panama.


I did a Chem Dog 4D as well. I was done Much quicker then the Panama. I used the same regimen for them as the Panama except the dogs drank and ate more.

Again after the cure of a couple few weeks. Heavy Diesel smell, Big Fat Nuggets, Very flavorful in the smoke department. Classic High.



So far I am happy as I can be with NFTG in combination with my setup.
I can't say I grew the plants with Chemical Nutrients nearly as well,
but my results with NFTG and my learning as I go seem to be adding up to some Weed I am Thrilled to smoke.

I have grown comfortable using them.
 
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