What's new
  • ICMag with help from Phlizon, Landrace Warden and The Vault is running a NEW contest for Christmas! You can check it here. Prizes are: full spectrum led light, seeds & forum premium access. Come join in!

my PH wont change from 7

G

Guest

My PH wont change from 7 Is this normal for organic soil?
I have 3 test methods and it will go to 6.7 but 7 it moves to. Is this normal the plants seem fine.
 

BurnOne

No damn given.
ICMag Donor
Veteran
octodiem said:
My PH wont change from 7 Is this normal for organic soil?
I have 3 test methods and it will go to 6.7 but 7 it moves to. Is this normal the plants seem fine.

That's what organic soil is all about.
What's your soil recipe?
Burn1
 
G

Guest

the cool thing about soil is it acts as a great buffer....7.0 is a perfectly acceptable PH for soil(imho) But the real test is how the plants are effected...if you say the plants look fine, why fix what ain't broke?
 

icky420

Member
I also find this to be true. I thought in organic soil you always have the issue of matter breakin down that makes the soil acidic.
 
7 is ok for organic soil plants they can handle it fine. if it gos over 7.2 or 3 then use ph down earth juice.
my ph ranges from 6.6 to 7 from time to time as long as your plnats are fine dont riun it.
saw a grow video on youtube where the grower has his organics at ph 7 some people that grow hydro need to keep ph in check but not really with organic its mother nature dude
 

kush07

Member
I believe the optimal Ph for organic soil is 6.0-6.5. I am currently creating a plot for next season that has a Ph of 7.0, but when I am done importing my soil and its ammendments it will hopefully drop. If not, I will try and lower the Ph and if I can't I will see if there is any effect. As said before, don't fix what isn't broke. Let mother do the cooking.

Happy Toking :rasta:
 
Last edited:
G

Guest

My soil is a complete mix that takes it through flowering.. peat, pertilite or pearlite worm castings two kinds of guano two kinds of limestone, phosphate rock, phosphate powder, a couple kinds dry of organic fertilizers typical soil. I wasn’t fixing anything just noticed the PH was 7 and it wont budge if I water with an acidic solution it goes down to 6.5 for an hour or two but the PH is the same. I use teas if I notice problems always some imperfection in soil and always soil is pretty spent at final chop. I was just wondering if the 7 ph was a problem. The wormcastings are fresh but I give the worms limestone and green sand for their gizzards. Worms die in acidic soil.
 

duggy

Member
Hm, there's no measurments. . .

duggy :smoker:

p.s. what does this mean?
"The wormcastings are fresh but I give the worms limestone and green sand for their gizzards. Worms die in acidic soil."
 

kush07

Member
7.0 is nuetral on a PH meter I have so I don't believe you should encounter any problems.

Happy Toking :rasta:
 

MrDank

Active member
Veteran
Organic soil with added dolomitic limestone will have a ph of 7 because that is what the lime keeps it neutral at. What I do is feed and water with a ph of 6.1-6.2 and that brings it to a happy medium.

I recycle my soil therefore I have to keep the ph in check by adding a little dolomitic limestone each time. Organic soil becomes more acidic over time, so keep the lime in the mix and you are fine
 
G

Guest

Duggy It means theese are home grown worms. Worms use grit or sand to digest food like a gizzard in birds. The castings are not composted pure worm poop with fungi and bacteria intact. Worm farms get acidic from all the decompisition and lime is the remedy. Limestone works not as fast. I don't measure so much as use parts ie...4to1 ect. I do final chem tests on soil. Age a few weeks while turning daily.(The soil takes time to develop its culture from the castings depending on temperature)Mr dank: my water is 7 ph I acidify it to 6.5 or so. The Grapefruit is such a dam fertilizer hog it takes so much it would burn most plants.
 
G

Guest

composted. Pure that is The castings are not composted. Pure worm poop with fungi and bacteria intact. Worm farms get acidic from all the decompisition a...
 
V

vonforne

7.0 is perfect for soil. Remember that during flowering that the PH will begin to drop a little. This will make all the admendments more available within that range.
 

sproutco

Active member
Veteran
Ph 7 is too high even in soil. A better range is 6 to 6.5. You may not see symptoms but could have reduced yields or vigor. Sounds like your using too much lime in your mix. Adjust your fert water after mixing to ph 6. If soil ph does not get lower than 6.5 after 1 week or so of trying this, apply elemental sulfur. 3/4 teaspoon per gallon of soil or 5 teaspoons per cubic foot. Use 1/3 to 1/2 rate to start. Sprinkle on the top of the pot and water in.
 
Last edited:

Suby

**AWD** Aficianado
Veteran
The lime is your problem I think, I assume your using it for grit in your wormbins and adding it to your soil, this will buffer any soils alkality a little high if used too often.
The ones your using in the castings are still very much affecting the ph of your soil when you make a mix with it.
First off I would use dolomite lime in both the wormbin and the soil mix, it has the right ration of Mg to Ca and will leave less cabonates in the soil which really whack ph out when it builds up, limestones has some, rock phosphate has it too i believe and it can build up.
Alot of hardcore organic growers dissprove of using too much powdered stone as it is a salt albeit a natural one, salts affect ph levels in way a ph meter doesn't read and affects beneficial fungus development, skip the stone powders additives IMHO they take too long to break down to be beneficial to a nute hog like MJ.
I don't believe in the wrong ph limit within reason, 7 is fine in my book, buffering makes all elements available at various ph limits plus as peat breaks down it acidifies slightly wich works in your favor as flowering prefers lower acidity (~6.5).
Most of your teas will be acidic, just use elements that contribute humics and use activated teas, the dolomite lime in small quanitites (~1tbsp in your case) will balance it out.
The whole process of the composting of elements in your soil results in the formation of humic acids which are a natural soil buffer so don't go nuts adjusting ph, you'll do more harm them good, if it ain't broke don't fix it.

Your after quality not yield such is my organic credo.

Suby
 
Last edited:
G

Guest

Oddly enough....

Robert Clarke(cannabis botany) says 6.5 to 7.5 is the best ph for cannabis in soil...

Despite the attempts at fear mongering 7 is fine....
 

Suby

**AWD** Aficianado
Veteran
Yeah B those ph pen junkies are starting to piss me off too lol.
It's really gospel from hydrostore pushers as they sell hydro ferts and know jack shit about organic growing.
Then again you say that ph doesn't matter and the trolls come out of the woodwork to post any and all charts they can copy and paste from a GH site lol.
All I know is if people can grow weed in Mexico in the desert then it can't be all that hard to grow.
Everything goes to hell when people (not Octodiem) start cocktailing and thinking more is more, it's not in this case less is more as a tea quickly can turn the tide in any organic grow.

S
 
G

Guest

I am sure also its the lime stone. I am befuddled here Ag limestone is all you can get. The pheno I grow is such a fertilizer pig and with the fertilizer it uses up calcium and magnesium. I am always having to suppliment. I had a pal send me some Epsom plus. It contains: 22% soluable potash,22% sulpher and 11% magnesium. I have also added burned eggshells and burned bone meal as upposed to somuch lime stone.
 
G

Guest

I get excellent bud with no real problems I am just tweaking. I dont think a steady PH of 7 is bad.The 7 ph is only an observation.
 

Suby

**AWD** Aficianado
Veteran
I'm sure you grow great bud O, anyone who is at the point of actually measuring soil ph is obviously in the tweaking phase of a good recipe.
Sadly IMHO there is no substitute for dolomite with weed, I find it's perfect.
It took me almost a year to track down the dolomite in powder form, pelletized is shit for container grows.
I've rarely seen a Mg or Ca def with plants in a mix with 2TBS/gall of dolomite lime, use alot of eggshells that you grind up very fine in your compost/wormbin and add it will make it into your mix and that should buffer and help also.
Sometime with a tea I'll use a healthy dose of ACV ( or ganic apple cider viegar with the mother still in it) and it really dips the ph gently and for a short periode of time but it adds to the overall acidity of a tea.

Incidentally how did you measure your soil ph, a ph probe or a RO shake test?

S
 
Last edited:
Top