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MotherLode Gardens 2016

Shcrews

DO WHO YOU BE
Veteran
Milky,
On the Accelerate from AEA, what do you recommend as the mix rate per gallon? Label has mixing instructions in acres. Are you applying only one application?
you should ask this in the AEA thread

Sorry for off topic.....but can anyone point me to some Bodhi gear online? Some of these crosses sound amazing but I'm east coast.
You should ask this in the bodhi thread



:thank you:
 

Shcrews

DO WHO YOU BE
Veteran
its 100+ degrees on the hill today. i already watered each mound 40gallons this morning, going to give them the same again a couple hrs before sundown, or else just spray them all down with the firehose.

might replace a couple starts that are lagging but i'm not sure. I really hate killing plants but some of my backup starts have surpassed the lagging originals
 

milkyjoe

Senior Member
Veteran
Milky,
On the Accelerate from AEA, what do you recommend as the mix rate per gallon? Label has mixing instructions in acres. Are you applying only one application?


10.5 ounces per 1000 sq ft, one time and def not sprayed heavy. Mn is tricky cause if you go too far I think some funny things may happen to the plant sexually. If your soil is 50 ppm Mn or above I would probably skip the Mn and just go heavy on Sea Shield and Sea Stim.


If you choose to go without Mn it is 4 gallon of Sea Stim per acre and 2 gallon of Sea Stim.


The basic rule of thumb is 1 qt per acre = 0.75 ounces per 1000 sq ft.


Screws...you will be fine if you follow the program. Once your chlorophyll gets denser and your plant starts making longer carbon chains (complex carbs, protein and fat) those leaf hoppers will die. I have seen them piled all over a pot just overnight.


You are gonna have to do something about K...with your cec filled with so much Ca it is going to be hard to get K on the cec sites so you will have to keep a soluble supply on hand especially after bud has set and starts growing.


If you want, and will use, a recommendation I would be glad to sit down and figure out what I would do.


Hang in there bud. Nothing is going on we cant work around and you can have a great year.


I wish someone would cut back on the Ca in the modified Coot mix big plant growers are using. I also wish they would not use any gypsum unless their pH is higher than 6.5. All that SO4 is doing is leaching primarily K (why your K can go from high to low in a single grow). And you got all that P fucking with your micros.


And I say it one more time...I never saw Coot hisownself recommend gypsum or that much Ca.
 

20sackzack

Member
Its weird I read your post about leaf hoppers last night then this morning I go look at my plants and what do you know? I find leaf hoppers! Maybe they are in season or something right now

Ive never had them before but they are small maybe only a half inch. They would rotate around the stems to hide from me. I flicked off the few I found

They causing you a lot of damage?
 

DAT

Member
its 100+ degrees on the hill today. i already watered each mound 40gallons this morning, going to give them the same again a couple hrs before sundown, or else just spray them all down with the firehose.

might replace a couple starts that are lagging but i'm not sure. I really hate killing plants but some of my backup starts have surpassed the lagging originals

AAHHHH Shit! i was wondering about your temps, SHcrews.:smokey:
going up to 95 degrees here in the valley in oregon. They legalized medibles in OR today.
You have a firehose!! :biggrin: I like that, thats sexy.:biggrin: I can see you in a firemans hat! Im pretty excited about all the watering now, the beautiful suset pictures. the hiking pictures and some huge fuckin Trees, i get to see!!!!!!!!!!!
peace Out and stay your Yusuall Cool self dude. :plant grow:
 

Shcrews

DO WHO YOU BE
Veteran
AAHHHH Shit! i was wondering about your temps, SHcrews.:smokey:
going up to 95 degrees here in the valley in oregon. They legalized medibles in OR today.
You have a firehose!! :biggrin: I like that, thats sexy.:biggrin: I can see you in a firemans hat! Im pretty excited about all the watering now, the beautiful suset pictures. the hiking pictures and some huge fuckin Trees, i get to see!!!!!!!!!!!
peace Out and stay your Yusuall Cool self dude. :plant grow:
cool, stick around! eat a few edibles for me, there's nowhere to get them out here by yosemite, and im not much of a baker. Check out my instagram @motherlodegardens i just put up a video of watering with the firehose.:laughing:
 

Shcrews

DO WHO YOU BE
Veteran
Its weird I read your post about leaf hoppers last night then this morning I go look at my plants and what do you know? I find leaf hoppers! Maybe they are in season or something right now

Ive never had them before but they are small maybe only a half inch. They would rotate around the stems to hide from me. I flicked off the few I found

They causing you a lot of damage?
i can't tell yet if they are causing damage but it doesnt seem like it, although i found a few areas on some stems they were munching on that have visible marks. the fuckers were scattered around today, some plants didnt have any and some had like 3-5
 

Shcrews

DO WHO YOU BE
Veteran
10.5 ounces per 1000 sq ft, one time and def not sprayed heavy. Mn is tricky cause if you go too far I think some funny things may happen to the plant sexually. If your soil is 50 ppm Mn or above I would probably skip the Mn and just go heavy on Sea Shield and Sea Stim.


If you choose to go without Mn it is 4 gallon of Sea Stim per acre and 2 gallon of Sea Stim.


The basic rule of thumb is 1 qt per acre = 0.75 ounces per 1000 sq ft.


Screws...you will be fine if you follow the program. Once your chlorophyll gets denser and your plant starts making longer carbon chains (complex carbs, protein and fat) those leaf hoppers will die. I have seen them piled all over a pot just overnight.


You are gonna have to do something about K...with your cec filled with so much Ca it is going to be hard to get K on the cec sites so you will have to keep a soluble supply on hand especially after bud has set and starts growing.

...

I wish someone would cut back on the Ca in the modified Coot mix big plant growers are using. I also wish they would not use any gypsum unless their pH is higher than 6.5. All that SO4 is doing is leaching primarily K (why your K can go from high to low in a single grow). And you got all that P fucking with your micros.


And I say it one more time...I never saw Coot hisownself recommend gypsum or that much Ca.
^^i think i get what you're saying. what do you think i should do about the Ca and K? i think i remember you saying you would rather have low K than high K? so hopefully i can fix that even with the good new soil now piled on top.

If you want, and will use, a recommendation I would be glad to sit down and figure out what I would do.


Hang in there bud. Nothing is going on we cant work around and you can have a great year.
yes please, that would be very helpful! you know i like your style.
 

Shcrews

DO WHO YOU BE
Veteran
watering the backup starts:
oqbMp7Dl.jpg




Blueberry Hashplant:
Z3N50m7l.jpg




three Ancient OG's
ytPYtbal.jpg




lower plot. one week in:
0IRBkNR.jpg




upper plot:
UfVGCBr.jpg
 

orechron

Member
I'm not exactly sure if my calcium was too high. I'm still learning this stuff. I just bought Michael Astera's book, hoping to not be so ignorant soon.


This is what Leadsled recommended I amend with per yard:

-125g kelp meal

-119g gypsum

-5g boron

-42g manganese sulfate

-96g potassium sulfate

-2g cobalt sulfate

-0.25g sodium molybdate





and here is my soil test results from both FGL and Logan Lab:

I'm guessing that those results were after applying the amendments Lead recommended? Hopefully more gypsum wasn't added into your soil with Ca saturation that high. Like Milky said, getting K into the plant is going to be a priority. Increasing K will also increase Manganese availability. Astera recommends it be 1/2 of iron and the AEA guys are going higher than 50ppm now with their soils.

One other thing about Mn. From what I've observed it doesn't stay in soils as easily as Copper fro example. My indoor soil has had the full dose of Mn 2 times over the course of a year or so and the level keeps dropping into the 15-20ppm range. I would add some in the sulfate form to your soil along with light foliar feedings, just my opinion. You can also dm me on instagram for details.

Orechron, why does mixing humic acid with sulfates make them more friendly to microbes?

Are there any micros you can't mix together?

Humates and fulvic acid can be used to buffer the application of high salt index N amendments. They have exchange capacity and hold nutrients when you mix them in a solution. I've applied micro sulfates without humates and burnt plants pretty bad. Using humacarb or some dry soluble products seems to reduce the damage. Keep in mind some of what I'm writing is anecdotal.

As far as micros being incompatible to each other it seems like basic chemistry says no. You add MnSO4 and ZnSO4 an they dissociate into Zn2+, Mn2+ and SO4-. The two cations shouldn't react.
 

Shcrews

DO WHO YOU BE
Veteran
no the tests were from before i amended. now you are making me think i shouldnt have added the gypsum? how bad did i fuck up?
 
Are you letting the clover grow the whole time? That always confuses me. I just pulled mine and then covered in straw and let compost back into the mounds.
 

milkyjoe

Senior Member
Veteran
screws....when you bought meters did you get a Potassium Meter? Have you used your brix meter yet...are you comfortable using it?

The basic goal we are shooting for is to get the elements in the plant in the right proportions. So it is not that Ca is more important in the plant than K. It is that Ca is a lot harder to get into the plant than K...so you need to start in the soil with say 7x as much Ca so that your Ca and K are equal in the plant.

So, according to Tainio, you want (in the plant tissue) and for your average plant (cause they are all a little different) N=Ca=K and you want Mg and P to be about 1/5 of those. You want iron and manganese to be about equal, somewhere around 100 ppm each. You want Zn to be half that.

So when we use soil testing we are really trying to determine how much of each element in the soil will give us those numbers in the plant.

So anyways let me know what meters you have and what level of comfort you have using them and we will go from there.
 

DAT

Member
the mounds are really interesting. I love the natural look of the little weed grasses that are growing up around them like the clover. Didnt you use to use the huge Smart pots? what made you decide to go this route and will your plants get just as big?
 
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FoothillFarming

Active member
Thanks for the visit yesterday.

I think your snap and pull oil retarded me, cause I took the wrong plant, lol. Just so everybody knows, Ancient Og f2's are in the making. Thanks Screws.
 

stinky

Member
Ok it's like almost 1am and I just read close to 1000 posts. Shcrews your garden, land, forest, coast and dog are amazing! Now the Girl. I will have to go back and see your previous grows.

It sounds like there are some very knowledgeable folks in this thread. The basic knowledge of plant nutrients and the levels needed in relation to one another were explained perfectly in post 978? from milkyjoe.

Hope you have a great season! :biggrin:
 
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Schrews,
I really enjoy your growing attitude/style and the general vibe here so far. (Page 11 and taking break to water my own garden)

I've used a Clackamas Coot inspired soil mix that I mixed up my self for years now, really love it!

I'm a high Rocky Mountain indoor canna grower. I drool over your plants you've posted on the bodhi thread, and had to come follow your work.

Danks for sharing amigo.

COo
 

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