I had some yellowing in my last 2 indoor runs about 4 weeks into flower, i think it was due to hot spots. my buddy suggested lowering my PH and use CalMag. My dep run so far is 5 weeks in and still lush green. knock on wood lol
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MotherLode Gardens 2016
- Thread starter Shcrews
- Start date
Almost every spring it seems like I have to take some small gas engine in for repair because it doesn't start. Usually it would be my fault for leaving gas in too long. This year it was a backpack blower and an extending pole saw. Looked on youtube on how to replace a carb, it's usually only a couple screws and the new carb is less than 30.00$ . I'm not mechanically inclined at all but there really isn't much to it, especially once you have the parts in front of you.
YES Agreed that Bodhi stuff is great,, I made some crosses that i ran a light dep on, AO x AO it looks xlnt & exzact like mother ! & snow wookie X BBHP, Smells great,,, AO x BBHP turned out great , & AO x White master,, , Best is AO x WM ,, WM was always my best, But now it is improved with the AO , NOw looking forward to seeing Space monkey & Sky lotus & grand daddy purple hashplant x g13 hp , Also made but not tryed yet is a Ao X (wifi x WM) & gonna cross it to the GDP/hp , """ Ya bodhi mostly""" & raskals WM & wifi too !!
the roots seem healthy on the males. most of the starts are starting to perk up and track the sun.
I fuck everything up the first time
I'm going to use a few Ancient OG plants to do an AOG open-pollination indoors this summer. Anyone ever done this, any advice? probably will just choose a couple big AOG males and put them in with 3 or 4 AOG females. might throw some females of other strains in there too and make some AOG crosses
woke up at 5am today ready to get to work. some coffee and a burrito and then gonna go pluck some male plants out of their 5gal smarties and replace them with the round-2 starts.
still waiting on logan labs to get me my soil results, but i really want to get everything in the ground soon. I have my new soil already... Anybody think i should just dump the new soil on top of the old soil and start planting? I can amend the old soil with the borax first, but really not totally sure what else the old soil needs because leadsled and others said the Fruit Growers Lab tests do not show what is really available to the plants. However if there's some way i could use those FGL recommendations then i could start planting sooner than if i wait on Logan labs.
one of my friends was weedwacking the hill and broke one of the barbed-T's on my drip system's mainline, so i have to order a new one and fix it, will probably be a pain.
I'm still trying to figure out a solid foliar regimen, as well as teas and soil drenches. Just started reading the AEA thread. My sap pH meter and refractometer are waiting for me at the post office. I'm getting excited for this season, am already way ahead of where i was this time last year
still waiting on logan labs to get me my soil results, but i really want to get everything in the ground soon. I have my new soil already... Anybody think i should just dump the new soil on top of the old soil and start planting? I can amend the old soil with the borax first, but really not totally sure what else the old soil needs because leadsled and others said the Fruit Growers Lab tests do not show what is really available to the plants. However if there's some way i could use those FGL recommendations then i could start planting sooner than if i wait on Logan labs.
one of my friends was weedwacking the hill and broke one of the barbed-T's on my drip system's mainline, so i have to order a new one and fix it, will probably be a pain.
I'm still trying to figure out a solid foliar regimen, as well as teas and soil drenches. Just started reading the AEA thread. My sap pH meter and refractometer are waiting for me at the post office. I'm getting excited for this season, am already way ahead of where i was this time last year
plantingplants
Active member
Those decisions can be agonizing. You could look at it this way: you're already ahead of where you were last year, so you could wait on the results to get your soil 100% on point. Of course factor in the time it takes to order all your amendments and move soil, but if your starts will be fine until then, then I bet it would feel good to be able to plug them into well furnished homes.
The other way to look at it is, and this is how I did it, is that you can just irrigate everything you need into your mounds. Although I'm not sure how that would work with the old soil underneath....
I already have enough to agonize over, I'll leave the rest to you Lolo
The other way to look at it is, and this is how I did it, is that you can just irrigate everything you need into your mounds. Although I'm not sure how that would work with the old soil underneath....
I already have enough to agonize over, I'll leave the rest to you Lolo
im not sure i understand what you mean. I recycled my soil for the last 2 seasons, no till, and used only water the whole time, and did just fine but i want to try goin with amendments this year
that would be cool if i could figure that out, but probably not possible once the new soil is piled on top
TheOutlawTree
Active member
You should definitely wait to plant until your old soil is amended... How big are the smart pots that your starts are in currently? They likely will not be slowed down at all if you just hold off another week or so and wait until you fix the old soil.
yes this is the answer i already knew... guess i'm just impatient now that the sun's out i just want to go go go.
the starts are in 5gal smarties. they should be fine for another week at least
yes sorry may be i don't understand really well.
too me when you recycle your soil, amendments are added during winter.
that's why it sounded strange .
the best way to make it simple is to do exactly the same as humbolt local . jorge cervantes explain everything in one of his video. don't remember if it is "go organics" or another.
too me when you recycle your soil, amendments are added during winter.
that's why it sounded strange .
the best way to make it simple is to do exactly the same as humbolt local . jorge cervantes explain everything in one of his video. don't remember if it is "go organics" or another.
FoothillFarming
Active member
Logan labs always responds well to some extra cash thrown in to expedite orders. Especially this time of year. I throw in maybe 20$ a sample on average when needed.
I would maybe top dress all my 5 gal pots with the new soil, top them off. Like you said, that would give them at least another week.
If you put the new soil on top, assuming it's balanced, you are now throwing it out of balance by amending what should be amending to only the existing soil. Wait it out, step up your foliar game in the mean time. Thing about how to boost micro life in the soil. Then when your tests come, amend it, pile new soil, and hit the ground running.
As always, just what I would do brother. Do what feels right.
I would maybe top dress all my 5 gal pots with the new soil, top them off. Like you said, that would give them at least another week.
If you put the new soil on top, assuming it's balanced, you are now throwing it out of balance by amending what should be amending to only the existing soil. Wait it out, step up your foliar game in the mean time. Thing about how to boost micro life in the soil. Then when your tests come, amend it, pile new soil, and hit the ground running.
As always, just what I would do brother. Do what feels right.
N is the problem with amending. The K and micros are gonna be water soluble so they could be added after planting by watering them in.
If you are willing to use non organic ammonium sulfate for an N source then ot can be watered in also and you could plant now.
Technically you should look at the new soil logan report...if, for example, it has plenty of K and you mix it then you could back off on your K amendment. Chances are it will be short on micros so no big deal there.
It would have also been a chance to not use compost which would help you get your P down...but water under the bridge at this point.
If you cannot get the new soil mixed in with the old it won't kill you. But it wont be as good as you could have done either. Just a matter of what you are satisfied with.
Personally if roots are filling the pots I would plant, those things don't need one more stress. If they are not then I would wait until they are, you don't want the soil falling apart as you are planting either.
If you are willing to use non organic ammonium sulfate for an N source then ot can be watered in also and you could plant now.
Technically you should look at the new soil logan report...if, for example, it has plenty of K and you mix it then you could back off on your K amendment. Chances are it will be short on micros so no big deal there.
It would have also been a chance to not use compost which would help you get your P down...but water under the bridge at this point.
If you cannot get the new soil mixed in with the old it won't kill you. But it wont be as good as you could have done either. Just a matter of what you are satisfied with.
Personally if roots are filling the pots I would plant, those things don't need one more stress. If they are not then I would wait until they are, you don't want the soil falling apart as you are planting either.
S
Stone House
This isn't a true indoor breeding setup but it has worked very well for me over the years.
I take the females that have been under lights at about one foot fall, transplant them into some easily moved pots.
I think the size I use are 45 gal smart pots. Whatever you use make sure they are big enough for a nice sized root system. The male/males don't need large pots as you no longer need them after they dump their pollen.
Put all your females outdoor (may need to adapt them to outdoor). This is done in early August, what you want is for the females to flower.
Keep your males under 18 - 24 hours of light indoors.
When you see the female start to flower outside flip the males inside to 12 hours.
When you see male flower clusters start to open move the females back indoors with the males.
The reason I do this is it allows the females to produce more flowers. If you start flowering both females and males at the same you will have alot less seeds at harvest.
Leave the males and females together until males drop pollen, I keep the males elevated above the females and give them a good shake twice a day to help spread pollen. Be careful not to carry pollen on your clothes when you go outdoors.
After pollen is finished destroy the males, seal them in plastic bag and throw away.
Leave females under lights about four more days, any pollen not used by female will be dead by now.
At this point put them back outside, feed them as if they were in veg and let them finish. Don't go by flower finish time as you normally would. You need to focus on seed maturity. Once you feel the seed forming inside seed pod remove a seed every so often to check for maturity (not all plants/seed finish at the same time). When you think they are ready, harvest.
I personally wait until the seed pods start to split open and seed pod starts to dry out.
This sometimes may take until early Nov.
By waiting until pods start to split I promise you the seeds will be much better quality!
There are many ways to safely pollinate your females and prevent seeding your main crop but I think this will give you the healthiest and most seeds.
Only problem with this method is when you bring the females back inside you may bring "bugs" into an indoor operation.
Why not throw a couple clone only elites in the mix while your at it.
This method can be modified depending on your needs, but I would for sure stagger male female flowering time and wait until seed pods start to split open.
I take the females that have been under lights at about one foot fall, transplant them into some easily moved pots.
I think the size I use are 45 gal smart pots. Whatever you use make sure they are big enough for a nice sized root system. The male/males don't need large pots as you no longer need them after they dump their pollen.
Put all your females outdoor (may need to adapt them to outdoor). This is done in early August, what you want is for the females to flower.
Keep your males under 18 - 24 hours of light indoors.
When you see the female start to flower outside flip the males inside to 12 hours.
When you see male flower clusters start to open move the females back indoors with the males.
The reason I do this is it allows the females to produce more flowers. If you start flowering both females and males at the same you will have alot less seeds at harvest.
Leave the males and females together until males drop pollen, I keep the males elevated above the females and give them a good shake twice a day to help spread pollen. Be careful not to carry pollen on your clothes when you go outdoors.
After pollen is finished destroy the males, seal them in plastic bag and throw away.
Leave females under lights about four more days, any pollen not used by female will be dead by now.
At this point put them back outside, feed them as if they were in veg and let them finish. Don't go by flower finish time as you normally would. You need to focus on seed maturity. Once you feel the seed forming inside seed pod remove a seed every so often to check for maturity (not all plants/seed finish at the same time). When you think they are ready, harvest.
I personally wait until the seed pods start to split open and seed pod starts to dry out.
This sometimes may take until early Nov.
By waiting until pods start to split I promise you the seeds will be much better quality!
There are many ways to safely pollinate your females and prevent seeding your main crop but I think this will give you the healthiest and most seeds.
Only problem with this method is when you bring the females back inside you may bring "bugs" into an indoor operation.
Why not throw a couple clone only elites in the mix while your at it.
This method can be modified depending on your needs, but I would for sure stagger male female flowering time and wait until seed pods start to split open.
they havent even called me for payment info yet. i guess could have sent a money order but i didnt think it would be a thing
like this?
i'm not sure i understand what you mean...?
thanks for that tip. I cant really wait until my females start to flower naturally or they would be huge!
Hey shcrews! & everybody else, I am not claiming to be any expert on seeds , But i will say i made seeds 3 yrs in row now & finely seeing the results ,, & they are turning out to be the most vigorous best germinating , best looking striped seeds i ever planted, made approx 45 crosses so far ,,YEs that AO male seems to be a great pollinator, I would not do it the way you guys are saying in a room ,, that seems liker more work & time, Plus you will have way to many seeds , ,, I'm sure that would be a great way, But I like the way i been doing it !!! Here's how i do it ,, First i can say its easy to get carried away & make to many crosses,, But it is so fun it not hard to do ! I just let those males in the pots that were started at same time (main crop) STAY in pots , Just keep them watered , & when your females (main crop start to flower,wait till aprox 3rd week & Collect pollen from only the best looking & Smelling male, YOU only want his traits, IT can be fun to get different results from different males but also nice to grow something & know next time it will be great AGAIN , SO tag a branch Or 2 in case something happens to 1 of them on a no wind day use a small artist brush, & paint the hairs on a female ,I did this on a Ao female I thought it was a small amount but the Ao keeps stretching & turned into a big cola & i cola ended with more than 1000 seeds ,, & m seeing the results now (light dep) & looks fantastic, I harvested a Ao x white master & WOW , Best looking buds iv ever seen for outside grown, , YOU only probably need 500-1000 seeds,, Not a million !!! Supper easy !!! I cant wait to see the results of the BB/HP X the snow wookie & others ,, ITs fun & results are better seeds !!!
it seems a lot easier to just throw a bunch of AOG's in a tent and let them get freaky indoors asap
nah i want to do an open pollination. i can make selections from the f2's i'm sure there will be some good ones. Also i plan to save a cut/father of the best AOG male for future crosses
