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Mk III Terpenator

hydrion on ebay should still have one

I got the oven sorted out thanks for the info.

Now im wanting a sight glass for the top of my column and there seems to be a shortage online. I dont plan on putting it below the dump valve only on to the column. Atm im not running a dry ice sleeve but am using a recovery tank plumed into a freezer. To my question is wouldnt a sight glass from glacier the 1.5 x 1.5 protected with viton seals work for me or should i wait for the terp sight glass to be in stock next month?

Im aware that if i go dry ice this sight glass wont work.

@gray wolf
 

Gray Wolf

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I got the oven sorted out thanks for the info.

Now im wanting a sight glass for the top of my column and there seems to be a shortage online. I dont plan on putting it below the dump valve only on to the column. Atm im not running a dry ice sleeve but am using a recovery tank plumed into a freezer. To my question is wouldnt a sight glass from glacier the 1.5 x 1.5 protected with viton seals work for me or should i wait for the terp sight glass to be in stock next month?

Im aware that if i go dry ice this sight glass wont work.

@gray wolf

Mike at Glacier says he pressure tested their sight glasses to 150 psi and Viton is rated to around -30F.

A column full of liquid, with valves closed top and bottom, can generate hydraulic pressures from thermal expansion, so a sight glass in that part of the circuit is not safe.

If you put it on top of the top valve, so it was isolated from the column during soak and saw only the recovery tank pressure, it should ostensibly work.
 
@graywolf what is your opinion on the terp sight glasses being 400psi rated?
To seperate the column from the sight glass on top the column i would need a
Ball valve.
 

Gray Wolf

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@graywolf what is your opinion on the terp sight glasses being 400psi rated?
To seperate the column from the sight glass on top the column i would need a
Ball valve.

It looks like they tested to 400 psi, but only rate it at 200 psi. ANSI/ASME rating for a 400 psi test would only be 133 psi, though that should be adequate for our purposes.

It uses a borosilicate wafer in compression, rather than a tube in direct tensile, so ostensibly should be capable of those pressures.
 

goddangitbobby

New member
I'm putting together my MK right now and pretty much all the fittings have small bubbles forming where the npt fittings were taped, is there any acceptable # or percentage of pressure loss? I start around 6 psi and I'm down to 51 or so after 24 hours.

Are there any tricks to getting these things taped? I started with a tiny bit of the ptfe paste and went around each fitting 2 x with the tape.
 
I'm putting together my MK right now and pretty much all the fittings have small bubbles forming where the npt fittings were taped, is there any acceptable # or percentage of pressure loss? I start around 6 psi and I'm down to 51 or so after 24 hours.

Are there any tricks to getting these things taped? I started with a tiny bit of the ptfe paste and went around each fitting 2 x with the tape.

Use proper tape - Yellow gas line or Green oxygen line (same thing just Green has all oils removed). Thin or bad quality tape does not work so well.

Use three wraps with clean fittings. No dope or paste. Not too many wraps either 3 to 3.5 wraps.

You should be able to pressure test to 150 psi and hold for 24+ hours with no leaks.

Stainless NPT fittings are hard to get sealed properly.
 

goddangitbobby

New member
I've got the yellow tape, I had seen a post by gw in the tape/sealant thread where he had said ptfe paste w/ 2× tape was how it was being done I've just been having trouble getting a seal.

I'm going to try the 45° npt adapters on the lid so everything isn't as cramped in there, if I can put the cross together in a vice and can get everything nice and tight without worrying about valve angles hopefully this will work.
 

Gray Wolf

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I'm putting together my MK right now and pretty much all the fittings have small bubbles forming where the npt fittings were taped, is there any acceptable # or percentage of pressure loss? I start around 6 psi and I'm down to 51 or so after 24 hours.

Are there any tricks to getting these things taped? I started with a tiny bit of the ptfe paste and went around each fitting 2 x with the tape.

You want zero loss/bubbles.

No trick, but stainless to stainless can be a pain in the ass, because it galls. I fill the threads even with the top, put on a couple of wraps of tape, and tighten until leak free.
 
Are there concerns about using PTFE pipe dope? Even with neat application I can't make connections without some squeeze out going into the interior of the fitting.
 

Gray Wolf

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Are there concerns about using PTFE pipe dope? Even with neat application I can't make connections without some squeeze out going into the interior of the fitting.

Same concerns as when using it for potable water pipes. The components have low oral toxicity but we always flush a system before use to minimize it.
 

snake11

Member
Are there concerns about using PTFE pipe dope? Even with neat application I can't make connections without some squeeze out going into the interior of the fitting.

Paste is messy and gets everywhere. Also gets washed away easy. Just from ice on a recovery tank it ate away at the paste till it was leaking gas. Havnt had good luck with paste on co2 systems either. Tape seems to hold up better.
 

Gray Wolf

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Paste is messy and gets everywhere. Also gets washed away easy. Just from ice on a recovery tank it ate away at the paste till it was leaking gas. Havnt had good luck with paste on co2 systems either. Tape seems to hold up better.

We use both. We fill the threads on the male thread and wrap it with a couple wraps of tape. Stainless galls very badly and you need some lubrication on the thread as you tighten them, especially where they cut through the tape.

There is also Rectorseal food grade:

http://www.rectorseal.com/pds-pdf/dsfoodanti.pdf
 

BrainChild

Member
^that looks great. I don't think we should be using pigmented or greased tape

I'm trying this: http://www.thredtaper.com/thredtaperphysprop.html

"Natural (white) non-pigmented, Purity 99.999% minimum virgin PTFE, Extreme resistance to most chemicals, corrosives, caustics, oils, solvents and gases. Approved for food handling equipment, oxygen and biological systems. UL listed."
 

gnetix

New member
I just recently got my hands on an MK3 Terpenator and I want to make sure I'm running it correctly. I've been looking on the forums but all I've seen as far as guides for the mk3 is how to run it actively, including on the terpp website.

1. First I open all valves, except my recovery valve which is closed since I won't be using a recovery pump, and vacuum it down to -29.99"hg.
2. I close the ball valve and vacuum valve.
3. I then set it in dry ice for about 10-15 minutes while I weight out my 30# butane storage tank which has about 10-12lbs of solvent. Apparently I'm supposed to run 10 lbs of butane through my 2lb column which to my understanding, 5 lbs will initially fill the column and then the other 5 lbs will wash any leftover product for higher yields. (I currently have a 3x36 spool and a 6x12" collection pot)
4. I then hook up my 30# tank to the input valve of my MKIII and flip it upside down higher than the valve.
5. I open the input valve then slowly open the valve on the 30# tank and I hear the butane rushing through the system.
6. The solvent travels up the column and at ~5lbs of solvent it reaches the top of the column and goes down the liquid line into the collection tank.
7. I then wait for another 5 lbs to go through the column and close the liquid line valve
8. Open dump valve and I wait ~30 minute for it to fully drain all the butane in the column to the collection pot
10. Vacuum down my 30# tank and set it in dry ice for recovery
9. Close dump valve and I de gass the column using the input valve outside and take apart the column for cleaning
10. I put my collection tank in 80-90F water and hook it up to my 30# tank in dry ice via vacuum port
11. I open the valves for the 30# tank and open the vacuum valve and i hear some hissing going into my 30# tank
12. I wait till my pressure gauge on the MKIII reads about -12 - -15 hg and then I open the collection pot and scrape/pour

Is the process I'm doing correct for the most optimal yields or am I doing something wrong? Any help is appreciated! Thank you GW for the amazing terp design, we wouldn't be able to do this without you :)
 

hobb3s93

Member
anybody got suggestions on explosion proof fans like the ones bogart sells? most of their stuff is pretty marked up so figured i could find it elsewhere for cheaper.

is the only thing that makes it "explosion proof" the fact its motor is encapsulated?
 

snake11

Member
anybody got suggestions on explosion proof fans like the ones bogart sells? most of their stuff is pretty marked up so figured i could find it elsewhere for cheaper.

is the only thing that makes it "explosion proof" the fact its motor is encapsulated?

Explosion proof fans generally have sealed motors and plastic fan blades. Caresaver makes a portable one called the careair but it is not cheap.
 

Gray Wolf

A Posse ad Esse. From Possibility to realization.
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I just recently got my hands on an MK3 Terpenator and I want to make sure I'm running it correctly. I've been looking on the forums but all I've seen as far as guides for the mk3 is how to run it actively, including on the terpp website.

1. First I open all valves, except my recovery valve which is closed since I won't be using a recovery pump, and vacuum it down to -29.99"hg.
2. I close the ball valve and vacuum valve.
3. I then set it in dry ice for about 10-15 minutes while I weight out my 30# butane storage tank which has about 10-12lbs of solvent. Apparently I'm supposed to run 10 lbs of butane through my 2lb column which to my understanding, 5 lbs will initially fill the column and then the other 5 lbs will wash any leftover product for higher yields. (I currently have a 3x36 spool and a 6x12" collection pot)
4. I then hook up my 30# tank to the input valve of my MKIII and flip it upside down higher than the valve.
5. I open the input valve then slowly open the valve on the 30# tank and I hear the butane rushing through the system.
6. The solvent travels up the column and at ~5lbs of solvent it reaches the top of the column and goes down the liquid line into the collection tank.
7. I then wait for another 5 lbs to go through the column and close the liquid line valve
8. Open dump valve and I wait ~30 minute for it to fully drain all the butane in the column to the collection pot
10. Vacuum down my 30# tank and set it in dry ice for recovery
9. Close dump valve and I de gass the column using the input valve outside and take apart the column for cleaning
10. I put my collection tank in 80-90F water and hook it up to my 30# tank in dry ice via vacuum port
11. I open the valves for the 30# tank and open the vacuum valve and i hear some hissing going into my 30# tank
12. I wait till my pressure gauge on the MKIII reads about -12 - -15 hg and then I open the collection pot and scrape/pour

Is the process I'm doing correct for the most optimal yields or am I doing something wrong? Any help is appreciated! Thank you GW for the amazing terp design, we wouldn't be able to do this without you :)

I just recently got my hands on an MK3 Terpenator and I want to make sure I'm running it correctly. I've been looking on the forums but all I've seen as far as guides for the mk3 is how to run it actively, including on the terpp website.

1. First I open all valves, except my recovery valve which is closed since I won't be using a recovery pump, and vacuum it down to -29.99"hg.


2. I close the ball valve and vacuum valve.

3. I then set it in dry ice for about 10-15 minutes while I weight out my 30# butane storage tank which has about 10-12lbs of solvent.

50# tank has more surface area and would be faster.

Apparently I'm supposed to run 10 lbs of butane through my 2lb column which to my understanding, 5 lbs will initially fill the column and then the other 5 lbs will wash any leftover product for higher yields. (I currently have a 3x36 spool and a 6x12" collection pot)

A 3” X 36” column is pushing things to the limit, at the very least. It holds close to 5# butane.

4. I then hook up my 30# tank to the input valve of my MKIII and flip it upside down higher than the valve.

Put your injection tee on top of the column for passive extraction.


5. I open the input valve then slowly open the valve on the 30# tank and I hear the butane rushing through the system.


6. The solvent travels up the column and at ~5lbs of solvent it reaches the top of the column and goes down the liquid line into the collection tank.


7. I then wait for another 5 lbs to go through the column and close the liquid line valve

8. Open dump valve and I wait ~30 minute for it to fully drain all the butane in the column to the collection pot

I would leave dump valve open and inject from the top


10. Vacuum down my 30# tank and set it in dry ice for recovery

Don’t vacuum, just chill.


9. Close dump valve and I de gass the column using the input valve outside and take apart the column for cleaning

??????????????? Leave in place


10. I put my collection tank in 80-90F water and hook it up to my 30# tank in dry ice via vacuum port


11. I open the valves for the 30# tank and open the vacuum valve and i hear some hissing going into my 30# tank


12. I wait till my pressure gauge on the MKIII reads about -12 - -15 hg and then I open the collection pot and scrape/pour

Tell when it has transferred by weighing.



Is the process I'm doing correct for the most optimal yields or am I doing something wrong? Any help is appreciated!


Thank you GW for the amazing terp design, we wouldn't be able to do this without you
C:\Users\JDELLI~1\AppData\Local\Temp\msohtmlclip1\01\clip_image002.png

I infer you are using the Mk III for passive recovery.
 

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