Mk III Terpenator

[hobb3s93]

I guess you could:
- Close liquid valve for whole operation.
- Take concentric reducer (input valve) and move to the top of the column, add the end cap, and leave your dump valve open.

But why do you want to top feed such a large column, I don't think you are going to get good saturation. Isn't that the whole point of the bottom feed in the first place?

ok cool thats what i figured.
i didn't know thats why it was designed that way but i just don't wanna over saturate. a lot of stuff i run is b grade so i figured i would not want tane to sit in the column while i was recovering. then have to dump after because I'm gna pull a lot of (extra)nasty stuff.

where as if i switched to top feed , in situations of running better material or feeling like i needed better saturation, i could just close the input valve and dump valve once the butane gets near the bottom of the spool and let it soak.
then open dump valve and liquid valve and run a second columns worth or so through to clear it.

but thats just how I'm envisioning in my head, i haven't used it yet and may be completely wrong.


thanx for your help, ill probably try bottom flood a couple times before i switch it over:tip hat:

just saw the last part of ur post after i posted this, thanx for that tip to ill try that

 

[OrganicFarmer]

Is the appion pump safe to use? On their website it said not to make bho with it.

 

[flatslabs]

Is the appion pump safe to use? On their website it said not to make bho with it.

Is it safe to use? Kind of... I guess that depends on your operating environment and ventilation.

Appion wants no part of this industry, hence the warning, and the motor is not explosion proof, so it is certainly not the best pump out there for this application. If you are looking to buy one new, I would get a Promax Rg6000 or RG6, they are a little cheaper and pretty much equivalent.

Most people buying new currently are going with the CPS21 with a stainless steel heat exchanger afterwards.

 

[jpdnkstr]

Are people having good luck with the CPS TR-21? I am thinking a heat exchanger is the way to go with any pump, so why not go with the CPS, isn't the motor enclosed(safer), the Promax RG6000 is discontinued, does anyone know why? I have also just built my Mk. III, and am trying to find out all of the facts before purchasing a recovery pump.

 

[flatslabs]

Are people having good luck with the CPS TR-21? I am thinking a heat exchanger is the way to go with any pump, so why not go with the CPS, isn't the motor enclosed(safer), the Promax RG6000 is discontinued, does anyone know why? I have also just built my Mk. III, and am trying to find out all of the facts before purchasing a recovery pump.

I haven't used one, but people seem to be having good luck with it, but people are also using 50ft 3/8" heat exchangers, sometimes multiples, so you have to factor all that into the cost of the pump which is already more expensive than a Promax, not to mention the extra hoses and ancillary parts you will need. I will let someone else chime in on whether it is truly safer or not.

The RG6000 is discontinued because the RG6 just came out. Same enclosure, different color, slightly faster rates, slightly more money.

 

[jpdnkstr]

Thank you for the info! I love this place!(IC) I was trying to avoid the whole heat exchanger.... but I think it will be the way to go, if I want my pump to last.

 

[Gray Wolf]

icdog,any tips on switching an mkiii to top feed ?

Move the injection tee to the top of the column for top feed, but suggest you switch your plumbing to Mk IV or Mk V configuration, which floods from either direction..

 

[hobb3s93]

Move the injection tee to the top of the column for top feed, but suggest you switch your plumbing to Mk IV or Mk V configuration, which floods from either direction..

ok so injection tee is the concentric reducer with input valve attached correct?

if i were to attach a 1/4 npt/straight fitting to the piece, that normally sits on top of the column.

and then left concentric reducer under the dump valve. would this allow me to input from either top or bottom?

i would put a ball valve on top of this though.

which is the best way(as in best path through mkiii) to draw butane into the collection tank for distilling? if i have removed my concentric reducer/input valve, can i just triclamp the pictured item to my dump valve then run a hose from my butane tank to the top of the dump valve ?

thanx for help as usual grey wolf. couldn't make it to rsd yesterday so once i get my gauge and swap a couple fittings i shud be ready to pressure test and start distilling.

 

[transplanted]

CPS TR21

CPS TR21

Are people having good luck with the CPS TR-21? I am thinking a heat exchanger is the way to go with any pump, so why not go with the CPS, isn't the motor enclosed(safer), the Promax RG6000 is discontinued, does anyone know why? I have also just built my Mk. III, and am trying to find out all of the facts before purchasing a recovery pump.

I just went from an Appion G5 Twin to the CPS TR21 with a MT69 subcooler. Used the Appion for a little over a month and it seemed slow compared to the forum posts, then one night it started bouncing all over the place, not just the gauges, the actual pump was bouncing. Ordered my CPS TR21 the next day. Was a little concerned about the reclamation tank and hose getting fairly warm, so I went ahead and ordered the MT69 subcooler. Ran it last night for the first time with the subcooler and it works like a champ. Doing 4 floods with a 1 1/2" x 24" column, start to finish 25 minutes. Not leaving 2 to 3 ounces of solvent in the column like the Appion did either. Going to have to say the CPS is a much better pump, only drawback to the TR21 / MT69 combo is the loss of solvent when you are done for the day.

 

[EpicExtracts]

Going to have to say the CPS is a much better pump, only drawback to the TR21 / MT69 combo is the loss of solvent when you are done for the day.

Throw a valve on the inlet side of the MT69 and throw it in some hot water after you're finished?

I have this same combo, getting ready to run it for the first time in the next few days. Good to hear you're liking it.

 

[Gray Wolf]

ok so injection tee is the concentric reducer with input valve attached correct?

if i were to attach a 1/4 npt/straight fitting to the piece, that normally sits on top of the column. View Image

and then left concentric reducer under the dump valve. would this allow me to input from either top or bottom?

i would put a ball valve on top of this though.

which is the best way(as in best path through mkiii) to draw butane into the collection tank for distilling? if i have removed my concentric reducer/input valve, can i just triclamp the pictured item to my dump valve then run a hose from my butane tank to the top of the dump valve ?

thanx for help as usual grey wolf. couldn't make it to rsd yesterday so once i get my gauge and swap a couple fittings i shud be ready to pressure test and start distilling.

You could inject straight in the top from a can, with a proper fitting. Are you not planning to reclaim?

I inject butane in through the lower tee and recover it as normal, with the tank sitting in 85F water.

 

[hobb3s93]

You could inject straight in the top from a can, with a proper fitting. Are you not planning to reclaim?

I inject butane in through the lower tee and recover it as normal, with the tank sitting in 85F water.

i am planning on reclaiming , i planning on using the inlet valve(c.reducer) on top of the column instead of that pictured item.

i posted that pic because you suggested i switch it to having flow of either direction, so i figured if i put that pictured fitting on top, i could keep my c.reducer/input valve below my column.then hook my tank to either location.

i just dug up your older thread on vac distilling , it clarified a lot for me. im gna hook the eco green tank to the liquid valve then recover as normal. i think i was confusing myself because i saw a pic of cold trap rather then an mkiii.

just did the pressure test today, both 6'' triclamps leaked. slow leak but still made plenty of bubbles.

do you think switching to high pressure clamps will help with that? or should i switch gasket material?
i believe it came with buna gaskets.

are high pressure clamps a pretty standard item for a brewing supply to stock? or is glacier tank the best place to find them?
i have a few brewing stores locally but coudnt find anything triclamp related on their websites.

 

[flatslabs]

are high pressure clamps a pretty standard item for a brewing supply to stock? or is glacier tank the best place to find them?
i have a few brewing stores locally but coudnt find anything triclamp related on their websites.

The only thing you are going to find at homebrew shops, if anything, is 1.5" Tri-Clamp stuff, definitely not a 6"

 

[EpicExtracts]

The only thing you are going to find at homebrew shops, if anything, is 1.5" Tri-Clamp stuff, definitely not a 6"

Yup! I'm a homebrewer. Your local brewstore is going to be hit or miss for the items we need depending on the locale. I haven't thumbed through the catalogs for any items we might be able to utilize, but the mail order places do have wort and plate chillers. The two biggest I know of are http://www.northernbrewer.com/ and http://www.midwestsupplies.com/

 

[transplanted]

Anything over 3" should have high pressure clamps. The thumbscrew clamps are only good up to 2"

 

[Gray Wolf]

i am planning on reclaiming , i planning on using the inlet valve(c.reducer) on top of the column instead of that pictured item.

i posted that pic because you suggested i switch it to having flow of either direction, so i figured if i put that pictured fitting on top, i could keep my c.reducer/input valve below my column.then hook my tank to either location.

i just dug up your older thread on vac distilling , it clarified a lot for me. im gna hook the eco green tank to the liquid valve then recover as normal. i think i was confusing myself because i saw a pic of cold trap rather then an mkiii.

just did the pressure test today, both 6'' triclamps leaked. slow leak but still made plenty of bubbles.

do you think switching to high pressure clamps will help with that? or should i switch gasket material?
i believe it came with buna gaskets.

are high pressure clamps a pretty standard item for a brewing supply to stock? or is glacier tank the best place to find them?
i have a few brewing stores locally but coudnt find anything triclamp related on their websites.

We get Mk III's leak free with standard hinged clamps and viton, or PTFE, but it is easier and more reliable using the high pressure clamps over about 1.5". The Mk IV and V use high pressure clamps even on the 1.5" clamps that aren't removed with each cycle.

Glacier is where we pick up our clamps, when we don't import them from China.

 

[Chonkski]

I've been wondering, this is a little off topic. But GW mentioned keeping his 1-1/2" clamp always clamped.

When doing this, (leaving triclamp connections connected from a week to week basis). Is it necessary to disconnect from time to time for inspection/cleaning? How long will you guys keep things connected for?

 

[gliders420]

.

Watch the inlet pressure gauge. If the inlet gauge drops rapidly and the outlet gauge stays put you either have a failed cylinder head o-ring or leaky piston rings. The cylinder head valve will keep the pressure downstream of the cylinder head and in the condenser
RB

You're certain you meant a cylinder head o-ring? Not a compressor head o-ring? My blue side dropped after a couple minutes the red side held tight....
I'm looking at the different parts... Unless the cylinder head o ring comes in the piston seal kit they don't sell one... But they do have a compressed head o ring....

 

[Rickys bong]

You're certain you meant a cylinder head o-ring? Not a compressor head o-ring?

The o-ring at the top of the cylinder that seals the valve plate to the cylinder. It's the one that sees the most heat during operation. I've had it fail once. If you look at the picture here:

http://www.centurytool.net/KTG520_Appion_Compressor_Rebuild_Kit_p/ktg520.htm

It's the o-ring at the bottom, just above the "larger photo" button.

If it's failed you will see a very rapid drop in pressure on the inlet side though.

RB

 

[gliders420]

.

If it's failed you will see a very rapid drop in pressure on the inlet side though.

RB

ok perfect i know which ring you mean, very rapid as in seconds? or minutes? it definitly didn't hold very long..

Ill break it down and take a look, i was literally there a few days ago and everything looked fine tho so well see