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Mites in the rootzone
- Thread starter michigan.mmma
- Start date
michigan.mmma
Member
an update and more info - i am trying to do what GS suggested and clone out the problem. lately i have been growing clones in the veg room and any time i have mother plants or any older plants that have any gnat infestation, things decline more rapidly.
i am now keeping clones in a totally different room, i am covering all trash cans with lids, and trying my hardest not to cross contaminate my rooms. the mites have to be transported by something like gnats - i dont believe they are coming in the medium and they are too small to travel any distance by walking. my current veg room has 4 - 3gal coco air pots but they were infested when they were clones. i saw the mites on the bottom of solo cups before transplanting them into 3gal pots. i have been very good about keeping any gnats from older plants in the flowering room from making to the veg room. in fact, i have not seen one gnat in the whole room since this recent effort. i did not see any mites for over a week after the transplant and was very excited but they are definitely there and in huge numbers. the thing is that these plants still look OK even though there are tons of these things crawling around the coco. IF these things eat roots they also eat other things because there is no way these could all survive on the plant roots alone. i am still not positive these things are causing the damage. i have some fuzzy white roots sticking out of the coco i am going to get the USB camera on it to see if they are feeding on the fine hairs but i did not see any evidence of that through the loupe.
i am now keeping clones in a totally different room, i am covering all trash cans with lids, and trying my hardest not to cross contaminate my rooms. the mites have to be transported by something like gnats - i dont believe they are coming in the medium and they are too small to travel any distance by walking. my current veg room has 4 - 3gal coco air pots but they were infested when they were clones. i saw the mites on the bottom of solo cups before transplanting them into 3gal pots. i have been very good about keeping any gnats from older plants in the flowering room from making to the veg room. in fact, i have not seen one gnat in the whole room since this recent effort. i did not see any mites for over a week after the transplant and was very excited but they are definitely there and in huge numbers. the thing is that these plants still look OK even though there are tons of these things crawling around the coco. IF these things eat roots they also eat other things because there is no way these could all survive on the plant roots alone. i am still not positive these things are causing the damage. i have some fuzzy white roots sticking out of the coco i am going to get the USB camera on it to see if they are feeding on the fine hairs but i did not see any evidence of that through the loupe.
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Pics would help, but here's a couple possibilities:
"Shore Flies
Order Diptera, Family Ephydridae
Shore fly adults are small flies that resemble fruit flies in
size and shape, but have black bodies with red eyes.
When at rest white spots can be seen on the wings.
Both adults and larvae feed on algae, bacteria and protozoa.
Direct feeding injury to plants is rare, but adults
may help to spread plant pathogens.
Shore fly development stages are egg, larva, pupa and
adult. Development time from egg to adult is about 10
days (93°F, 34°C) to 16 days (73°F, 23°C). Larvae andadults are found in areas with algae – growing media surfaces,
benches and floors. Adults often occur in large
numbers, and will produce black fecal spots on leaves,
plug tray surfaces, etc. This is unsightly at best, and the
fecal spots can contain one or more plant pathogens." from an OHP guide
or perhaps thrips, heard of them hatching in root zone
"The thrips life cycle includes the egg, two actively feeding larval (nymphal) stages, nonfeeding prepupal (propupal) and pupal stages, and the adult. Thrips have a metamorphosis that is intermediate between complete and gradual. Last-instar larvae change greatly in appearance, and they are often called pupae even though thrips do not have a true pupal stage.
Thrips eggs are elongate, cylindrical to kidney-shaped, and relatively large in relation to the female. Females of most plant-feeding species insert their tiny eggs into plants, commonly into leaves or buds where larvae feed. The pale prepupae and pupae of most species drop to the soil or leaf litter or lodge within plant crevices. Greenhouse thrips pupate openly on lower leaf surfaces while pupae (and eggs) of some gall-making species, such as Cuban laurel thrips, occur on leaf surfaces but are enclosed within distorted plant tissue. Thrips have several generations (up to eight or more) a year. The life cycle from egg to adult may be completed in as short a time as 2 weeks when the weather is warm." from ucdavis website
"Shore Flies
Order Diptera, Family Ephydridae
Shore fly adults are small flies that resemble fruit flies in
size and shape, but have black bodies with red eyes.
When at rest white spots can be seen on the wings.
Both adults and larvae feed on algae, bacteria and protozoa.
Direct feeding injury to plants is rare, but adults
may help to spread plant pathogens.
Shore fly development stages are egg, larva, pupa and
adult. Development time from egg to adult is about 10
days (93°F, 34°C) to 16 days (73°F, 23°C). Larvae andadults are found in areas with algae – growing media surfaces,
benches and floors. Adults often occur in large
numbers, and will produce black fecal spots on leaves,
plug tray surfaces, etc. This is unsightly at best, and the
fecal spots can contain one or more plant pathogens." from an OHP guide
or perhaps thrips, heard of them hatching in root zone
"The thrips life cycle includes the egg, two actively feeding larval (nymphal) stages, nonfeeding prepupal (propupal) and pupal stages, and the adult. Thrips have a metamorphosis that is intermediate between complete and gradual. Last-instar larvae change greatly in appearance, and they are often called pupae even though thrips do not have a true pupal stage.
Thrips eggs are elongate, cylindrical to kidney-shaped, and relatively large in relation to the female. Females of most plant-feeding species insert their tiny eggs into plants, commonly into leaves or buds where larvae feed. The pale prepupae and pupae of most species drop to the soil or leaf litter or lodge within plant crevices. Greenhouse thrips pupate openly on lower leaf surfaces while pupae (and eggs) of some gall-making species, such as Cuban laurel thrips, occur on leaf surfaces but are enclosed within distorted plant tissue. Thrips have several generations (up to eight or more) a year. The life cycle from egg to adult may be completed in as short a time as 2 weeks when the weather is warm." from ucdavis website
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michigan.mmma
Member
where do you buy pylon and how much does it cost?
i found one place that had a pint for $445. i hope thats not it...
michigan.mmma
Member
Adult- Mature bulb mites vary from 0.5 to 0.9 mm long and have four pairs of legs. Their bodies are shiny, white, somewhat transparent, and smooth with reddish brown appendages.
Egg- The egg is white and translucent, 0.12 mm long, and ellipsoidal.
Larva- Shortly after hatching, the larva is 0.15 to 0.2 mm long and when well developed is 0.25 mm long. White and oval, larvae have only three pairs of legs and lack genital suckers.
Protonymph- The protonymph has four pairs of legs; it is oval and approximately 0.4 mm long. This stage can be distinguished from the tritonymph by having two genital suckers, whereas the tritonymph has three or four suckers.
Deutonymph or Hypopus- This quiescent stage is oval, convex on top, flattened below, brown, and 0.2 to 0.3 mm long. The mouthpans are absent. On the back lower side is a conspicuous sucker plate.
Tritonymph- The tritonymph is about 0.5 mm in length and has not yet developed a distinct genital aperture.
Life History- Bulb mites are rarely noticed as isolated individuals, but rather as large colonies. All stages of the mite can be found throughout the year. Development may occur in five or six stages (a hypopal stage is sometimes produced). In those forms with six stages, the life cycle proceeds from egg to larva to protonymph to hypopus to tritonymph to adult.
Females lay up to 700 eggs each depending on the host. R. robini tends to form relatively small colonies on narcissus and tulips whereas R. echinopus forms large colonies on a greater range of bulb crops. These mites can survive by feeding on paper and other sources of organic matter. The eggs mature in 5.1 to 27 days. The total life cycle from egg to adult could be as short as 12.2 days (at 25°C) for R. robini or 13.9 days (at 25°C) for R. echinopus depending on the host bulb, temperature, and relative humidity. Adults live longer at lower temperatures (up to 121 days) and males tend to live twice as long as females. These mites can survive at 35°C, but they cannot lay eggs at that temperature. On the other hand these mites cannot develop at temperatures below 11.8°C. The length of development is greatly dependent on temperature, relative humidity (100 percent is best), and available food. Hypopi form when the population becomes crowded, or the substrate becomes too polluted by decay. The hypopal stage attaches to insects visiting the bulbs and may be carried to other bulbs. Hypopi do not feed (no head), and they are resistant to starvation and desiccation during adverse conditions. The ratio of males to females varies from 1 to 1, to 1.9 to 1, depending on relative humidity, diet, and perhaps other factors. Besides their direct feeding, bulb mites are a threat because they carry pathogenic fungi.
Egg- The egg is white and translucent, 0.12 mm long, and ellipsoidal.
Larva- Shortly after hatching, the larva is 0.15 to 0.2 mm long and when well developed is 0.25 mm long. White and oval, larvae have only three pairs of legs and lack genital suckers.
Protonymph- The protonymph has four pairs of legs; it is oval and approximately 0.4 mm long. This stage can be distinguished from the tritonymph by having two genital suckers, whereas the tritonymph has three or four suckers.
Deutonymph or Hypopus- This quiescent stage is oval, convex on top, flattened below, brown, and 0.2 to 0.3 mm long. The mouthpans are absent. On the back lower side is a conspicuous sucker plate.
Tritonymph- The tritonymph is about 0.5 mm in length and has not yet developed a distinct genital aperture.
Life History- Bulb mites are rarely noticed as isolated individuals, but rather as large colonies. All stages of the mite can be found throughout the year. Development may occur in five or six stages (a hypopal stage is sometimes produced). In those forms with six stages, the life cycle proceeds from egg to larva to protonymph to hypopus to tritonymph to adult.
Females lay up to 700 eggs each depending on the host. R. robini tends to form relatively small colonies on narcissus and tulips whereas R. echinopus forms large colonies on a greater range of bulb crops. These mites can survive by feeding on paper and other sources of organic matter. The eggs mature in 5.1 to 27 days. The total life cycle from egg to adult could be as short as 12.2 days (at 25°C) for R. robini or 13.9 days (at 25°C) for R. echinopus depending on the host bulb, temperature, and relative humidity. Adults live longer at lower temperatures (up to 121 days) and males tend to live twice as long as females. These mites can survive at 35°C, but they cannot lay eggs at that temperature. On the other hand these mites cannot develop at temperatures below 11.8°C. The length of development is greatly dependent on temperature, relative humidity (100 percent is best), and available food. Hypopi form when the population becomes crowded, or the substrate becomes too polluted by decay. The hypopal stage attaches to insects visiting the bulbs and may be carried to other bulbs. Hypopi do not feed (no head), and they are resistant to starvation and desiccation during adverse conditions. The ratio of males to females varies from 1 to 1, to 1.9 to 1, depending on relative humidity, diet, and perhaps other factors. Besides their direct feeding, bulb mites are a threat because they carry pathogenic fungi.
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michigan.mmma
Member
Bulb mite, Rhizoglyphus robini Claparede (Astigmata: Acaridae), is a cosmopolitan species that has achieved pest status in countries as divergent as Australia, Israel, Japan and the United States. Its wide host range includes onion, garlic, lily, gladiolus, cereals and many other crops. It also feeds on organic matter in the soil. The first published record of R. robini as a pest of onion in the United States dates back to 1955, when it was briefly reported as a pest of commercial onion in New York. Since 1995, it has recurred sporadically in that state and has caused significant degrees of economic damage.
Most damage caused by bulb mite occurs at the roots and in the basal plate, but these mites have been found in pockets within the growing bulb tissue of otherwise healthy plants. The above-ground symptoms of damage are quite similar to those of onion maggot, and bulb mite damage is likewise most serious to seedling onions. Heavily damaged plants eventually lose their roots and topple. Damage is also manifest in infection from bacterial and fungal pathogens that may enter through mite-created wounds.
Although specific aspects of bulb mite biology and behavior in onion habitats are not yet clear, reports from other cropping systems are revealing. The bulb mite is extremely well adapted to its soil habitat: it prefers to feed on fresh tissue, but can survive on many organic materials including dead plants, dead insects and manure; it can survive up to five weeks submerged under water; it is capable of escaping adverse conditions, such as drought and extreme cold, by moving deeper into the soil. The second nymphal stage, or hypopus, may use its specialized sucker plate to attach itself to flying and crawling animals or to equipment, and thus be dispersed to new locations.
Populations of the bulb mite can increase rapidly. Under optimum conditions, females can live up to 40 days and produce 700 eggs; males can live for up to 73 days. It is estimated that under field conditions, a generation can be completed in approximately four weeks. No pesticides are registered for suppression of this pest on onion. Because it has such a wide host range, most crop rotations will not manage it. Although the mite probably exists at some level in most soil environments, it is believed that economic damage occurs when some disruption, such as reduction of natural enemies, or a sudden infusion of organic matter in the form of green mulch allows the resident population to increase to damaging levels. Research efforts are presently structured to monitor damaging levels of mites and to clarify the factors that cause these increases to occur.
the last bold statement may explain why my problem gets worse when i add aerated compost teas.
Most damage caused by bulb mite occurs at the roots and in the basal plate, but these mites have been found in pockets within the growing bulb tissue of otherwise healthy plants. The above-ground symptoms of damage are quite similar to those of onion maggot, and bulb mite damage is likewise most serious to seedling onions. Heavily damaged plants eventually lose their roots and topple. Damage is also manifest in infection from bacterial and fungal pathogens that may enter through mite-created wounds.
Although specific aspects of bulb mite biology and behavior in onion habitats are not yet clear, reports from other cropping systems are revealing. The bulb mite is extremely well adapted to its soil habitat: it prefers to feed on fresh tissue, but can survive on many organic materials including dead plants, dead insects and manure; it can survive up to five weeks submerged under water; it is capable of escaping adverse conditions, such as drought and extreme cold, by moving deeper into the soil. The second nymphal stage, or hypopus, may use its specialized sucker plate to attach itself to flying and crawling animals or to equipment, and thus be dispersed to new locations.
Populations of the bulb mite can increase rapidly. Under optimum conditions, females can live up to 40 days and produce 700 eggs; males can live for up to 73 days. It is estimated that under field conditions, a generation can be completed in approximately four weeks. No pesticides are registered for suppression of this pest on onion. Because it has such a wide host range, most crop rotations will not manage it. Although the mite probably exists at some level in most soil environments, it is believed that economic damage occurs when some disruption, such as reduction of natural enemies, or a sudden infusion of organic matter in the form of green mulch allows the resident population to increase to damaging levels. Research efforts are presently structured to monitor damaging levels of mites and to clarify the factors that cause these increases to occur.
the last bold statement may explain why my problem gets worse when i add aerated compost teas.
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KeepItPushin
Member
MI,
Are you unable to get access to a scope? Are you saying you think you have the bulb mite species, or is that just speculation?
Are you unable to get access to a scope? Are you saying you think you have the bulb mite species, or is that just speculation?
michigan.mmma - I get samples for free, but when I checked online, the stuff does go for that price. I am going to make another app on Sunday to kill any that have hatched. I should know how effective it is, and whether its worth the $. Nothing else has worked so I'm hoping. I'll post as soon as I can ascertain...
There is a supplemental label for drenching in soilless media at a rate of 5 oz/ 100 gal or 1.5 ml per gal. So a pint will make 300 gallons. I only made a couple gallons for all my plants and dipped net pots and poured over top of media. Given you should not make more than 3 apps in a plants life, a pint will last forever. Maybe find someone to split. It also makes an outstanding foliar for spider mites although I wouldn't use in flower.
KeepItPushin
Member
I'm working in the lab right now on the confocal microscope. This mite is going to blow your minds! Hahaha.
michigan.mmma
Member
i just got a USB microscope recently. i posted several pics in this thread of what i have. the first pics were not so great but the later pics show pretty good detail on these little critters. there are also videos and i mentioned there are other videos on that youtube account.
i believe i have bulb mites at this point. they look like what GS posted. the behavior seems to match what i have been reading and posting. i have tried to get some more pictures but it is more difficult than i thought with this scope.
i have been treating for RA's for the longest time and that is why these mites were not affected. i am going to try to clone out the problem but i also would like to know how to kill these things in case i get infected again.
i am now searching for methods in the rootzone that may be effective on these mites.
michigan.mmma
Member
pics are coming soon i hope....
KeepItPushin
Member
Here ya go:
Adult Flyer
Close Up Head
Close Up Tail
Root Crawler Side
Root Crawler Back
Adult Flyer
Close Up Head
Close Up Tail
Root Crawler Side
Root Crawler Back
KeepItPushin
Member
Flyer and Crawler
Crawler
Crawler Large
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KeepItPushin
Member
lol.. I knew you were going to tell me that. I would bet all my harvest in all my rooms that it's not a fungus gnat. It may resemble one, but I promise you it is not. I have had fungus gnats many times and I am VERY familiar with them. These flyers have an extremely distinct flight pattern which is nothing close to that of a fungus gnat, so guess again.
Also, Gnatrol has no affect on these guys. Neither do mosquito dunks.
Also, Gnatrol has no affect on these guys. Neither do mosquito dunks.
KeepItPushin
Member
BTW you're not very observant, George. Take a close look at google images fungus gnat vs my pics - DEFINATELY not the same. I took great care to closely show the top and bottom halves so that no one could mistake this guy for a fungus gnat.
michigan.mmma
Member
im not sure if you saw the videos i posted. there are 3 with fungus gnats in them. i know they are short but you can pause it anytime throughout and see several different angles.
call me crazy but the gnats in my videos, the fliers in your pics, and the pic below are all fungus gnats. what differences do you seen in them?
call me crazy but the gnats in my videos, the fliers in your pics, and the pic below are all fungus gnats. what differences do you seen in them?
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