MASSIVE OUTDOOR GROW

[Guest]

JULIAN-Interesting,no maintenance sounds too good.So i guess the main concerns with these "outdoors" is location,security,heat waves and male eradication.When the first heat wave comes along and last for a couple weeks can they handle it or do you need to go their and water them quick,also where's the best place to buy bulk fem seeds?Thanks

 

[Julian]

JULIAN-Interesting,no maintenance sounds too good.

Can be....many, many run no maintenance, and, while I can't speak for them, my target and primary concern has always been, as above and elsewhere, to get them in as early, established and set up (watered when planted, planted before rains rolling in...)

Of course, some areas, due to rainfall not possible...(although not true exactly, as if water sources nearby, those in such areas can set up automatic for irrigation and such, etc....lot of different angles but to me no maintenance is plant and walk....)
[quoter]
So i guess the main concerns with these "outdoors" is location,security,heat waves and male eradication.
[/quote]
Well, security always applies to any spot or region.(indoor or out)..Growing 101.... No maintenance obvious for the above one should only be working with females, clones or seeds.....as a true no maintenance and security issues are little, or no visits at all....

(This feeds into locations....and traffic at location, and, what I face at many city spots.....)

When the first heat wave comes along and last for a couple weeks can they handle it or do you need to go their and water them quick,also where's the best place to buy bulk fem seeds?Thanks

Depends on how , and if they were "established" from the start.....and, again, regional issues, as lot of areas were hit this season with high 100's...I lost a plot earlier in season (city) but I did not use the crystals, and, all other plots with crystals made it through, those fried to a crisp.......(was interesting seeing the difference actually....)

The larger site and op....not a problem as good ground cover and surrounding vegetation and were established early...(ie: one always has to remember....2-3ft down are far different from surface temps....so, penetration determines your success and safety.......My earlier I do holes, (with drill) watered, before rains, so.....they're established with good penetration fairly quick, and, with adequate penetration, couple weeks really has not even seemed to be a problem......

Seeds?, well, one would have to contact their source and negotiate that....(I do have my own recommendations, but, think it bad form to recommend another company in thread considering the sites host and business....) One could also contact the breeder depending on volume, locations, agreements, etc.....might be able to reach an agreement on something if all other aspects in line..(ie: breeder might only distribute through one source, breeder may be located in a place where a transaction with an individual may not be in their best interest or desirable (ie: risk), but, bulk is bulk......you negotiate, you work a deal suitable to both parties, based on a long term volume relationship and everyones happy...

 

[Guest]

JULIAN-Weather is a concern here,it's usually off an on rain then sun then rain and then of course it's not unusual to get warm weather early then a rainy summer like this year,one can't determine what's going to happen around here so i guess maybe one should plant in june-july just to be safe.Do you use seedlings instead of clones for a reason other then easing transportation,probably mentioned it earlyer in the thread but i don't know where to start Also i have more then a dozen sites i was thinking of planting next year that are very safe and only excesable buy boat/heli,it's on a large lake and their's even a couple good size islands but the problem is their's some helicopter air traffic as well as some sight seeing planes that frequent the area,what i'm saying is do you think it would be best to do small 200-300 plants at each site then 1000+ to help avoid detection,their's lots of vegatation,the lake is surronded by mountains and the sites are at the very bottom no more then 100-ft from the lake,good fresh water to,i was thinking of just hooking a 12volt DC water pump direct to my boat then to reservoirs above the sites and have a top feed system or just a hose and i wand to make it simple.

 

[Julian]

JULIAN-Weather is a concern here,it's usually off an on rain then sun then rain and then of course it's not unusual to get warm weather early then a rainy summer like this year,one can't determine what's going to happen around here so i guess maybe one should plant in june-july just to be safe.

Well, several things......

1. It all starts with "optimal"....and then goes down hill from there...ie: One can have fully prepped holes, 24/7 irrigation, ideal weather, OR....one can plant and leave..the latter will survive if conditions halfway decent...Yield is the factor......(Optimal and ideal being the highest and possible yield and everything else less.....lot of yield being in your hole....Not to say no maintenance and no hole is no yield, just reduced...

Note: I had a lot of pics previous years that were good examples....3" peat pot, in 3" hole, native soil, top fed, turned into 10ft+ giants.....

Prepped hole would have probably doubled the yield.(possibly tripled or more...but, nevertheless, point stands...all depends on your situation.....If I could visit spots often, etc, I am sure I would do more, but, for a number or reasons, I can't, and, frankly, would rather not to begin with (those days are 8hrs more or less on the road alone, and, a lot of work included (manual, walking, loads, conditions, etc.....last time we spent 6 hours walking , loads, in monsoon rain..(I only had camo pants, boots and t shirt .so....I like that, so, besides the point , but,tiring......

It depends, because once they are in and established (holes play a big part also), your home free (as far as penetration and bouts of weather with no rain....) Larger plants, good holes......they can go pretty long...(I had city spots with minimal holes and crystals make it almost a month.....

Now, other factor regarding environmental issues (moisture and heat) is the heat......Self explanatory: They can go longer without (water) with reasonable temps....ie: if your high 70's, they might make it over a month...if 90's, might need it every 2 weeks, so, again, as above.....you kind of get drawn into monitoring the weather to try and develop an overall picture....

I get nervous when starts into 90's without rain because then you have evaporation issues come into play.....(Also depends on location though, ground cover, as above, surrounding vegetation, etc...my city spots I have none so I keep a closer eye all the time on weather...

Going later:
I like later...less risk, smaller plants, smaller plants less security issues, etc, and, yield still can be very nice (as above...I have July 1sts that will end up 9 footers, so.....July 1st to Aug 1st they went from about 1ft to about a bushy 6 or so....links above...) So, that goes back to issues above and elsewhere of peoples perceptions of the season...July planting fine......no problem....(and, also commentary above about I have been thinking more and more about just blowing off earlier.....less work, less risk,etc......eliminating months of both....

Do you use seedlings instead of clones for a reason other then easing transportation,probably mentioned it earlyer in the thread but i don't know where to start

First post , and then maybe 2-3 pages in.....

I prefer ideally fem beans due to lead time...(ie: fem beans, earlier in season for me are 14 day turnarounds more or less, late season 5 days or so turnarounds....clones your looking at 3 month turnaround more or less....for me, all about "lead time to prep"....All depends on ones personal preferences and approaches, etc......The above best for me because shooting for efficiency, risk minimization, etc.......ie: I don;'t want to sit on things for months longer than I have to, and, I want to clear rooms asap so I can begin other rounds, etc....

Also i have more then a dozen sites i was thinking of planting next year that are very safe and only excesable buy boat/heli,it's on a large lake and their's even a couple good size islands but the problem is their's some helicopter air traffic as well as some sight seeing planes that frequent the area,what i'm saying is do you think it would be best to do small 200-300 plants at each site then 1000+ to help avoid detection,their's lots of vegatation,the lake is surronded by mountains and the sites are at the very bottom no more then 100-ft from the lake,good fresh water to,

Lot of my buddies with boats do islands....always have known people who have and actually seems to help with moisture issues.....a lot....(they never watered manually for the most part...I assume to to ground water levels, etc....)

If your dealing with sight seeing traffic, really not an issue if they are spread out and worked in well (I've done areas with a lot of sight seeing aircraft.....make you a little nervous just because planes are going over , but, they're not looking for it, and, can't recognize it..(depends how low they are....for me, they have never come down low enough to give me a concern,.....ie: maybe 1,000-1,500ft at lowest point...)

You lost me on the 1,000 to avoid detection...are you talking about a decoy batch?...... I used to believe in decoy batches, but, still brings them into the area and on the ground, so......

Key is all in working them in to the surrounding vegetation the right way.....I mean, you can do 1,000 and not have 1,000 in a single spot......so.....it's easy, same amount of work, just a little more walking (spreading them out...) As above in thread....I have a lot (a LOT) of spots where I might have 100 per "spot" but, that spot could be the size of a football field and they are worked in at random in what I deem good spots (vegetation, stealth, etc....)

You can also use (I do and always have) pretty dense spots (vegetation), and, some people clear larger areas, but, why?......clear the area around plant(s)....you don't have to whack 10,000 sq. ft if your actual usable space is only 1,000 of that.....

Also goes back to the above.......smaller you go, less aerial issues can affect you....yield made up on numbers, but, numbers safer because less visibility and profile.......

(I like smaller too for trimming issues...much easier to trim larger solid stuff than cutting apart the big ones and messing with all the stuff that is not.....)

i was thinking of just hooking a 12volt DC water pump direct to my boat then to reservoirs above the sites and have a top feed system or just a hose and i wand to make it simple.

I really like that idea..(and having feed line for rez on shore so can just pull up and get it done?....Very good idea....I like that......going to share that with some people But, as above...islands usually fairly decent as far as moisture issues, and, depending on size (of island) and locations...You might not even need to.....all depends....you know area better than I.....but, islands also you always should be aware of them the season before....who comes and goes (if anyone)......sometimes, they get some traffic...but, again, all depends......I usually get spots the season before (so, right now, I am watching new spots all season for traffic, and, will decide based upon that for next season........same with spots I have this season....we saw them last 2 seasons and kept an eye on them (lot of hunters in that area.....) Should also note, one of my best new spots is absolutely one of the most hellish spots I have ever seen.....(lot of nasty stuff, mosquitoes so thick your ears ring for 2 days afterwards, etc....so...GREAT spot (growth wise)...and, can't see how anyone could even stand there for more than a minute and not want to GTF outta there

 

[pico]

These aren't late season minis, but they did just get in the ground 3 weeks ago. I think these are Snowcap plants. There are some Blue skunk plants out there somewhere.




I didn't take pictures, but there are some massive garden down here. Still medical, but they have giant plants. My fencing goes around the plants like you see in the above photo. My buddy lays his fencing along the ground and keeps pulling the plant down and tying it sideways for a while. After a while he lets the plants grow up and he is left with plants that are 6-8 feet across and 5 feet high this time of year. Now picture 100 of those in big huge ganga rows. They light dep some of the rows to get stuff done earlier in the year.

 

[phrank]

hey now pico...

hey now pico...

Those plants on steroids, or what..?

woohoo,

phrank

 

[Julian]

These aren't late season minis, but they did just get in the ground 3 weeks ago. I think these are Snowcap plants. There are some Blue skunk plants out there somewhere.

Nice.........How large were they when they went in?....(These are yours?)....How large were holes done? (sure it was full prep if med, planning, etc)....Why didn't you get them in sooner? (just asking...)

I didn't take pictures, but there are some massive garden down here. Still medical, but they have giant plants. My fencing goes around the plants like you see in the above photo. My buddy lays his fencing along the ground and keeps pulling the plant down and tying it sideways for a while. After a while he lets the plants grow up and he is left with plants that are 6-8 feet across and 5 feet high this time of year. Now picture 100 of those in big huge ganga rows. They light dep some of the rows to get stuff done earlier in the year.

I'm very annoyed that I have a lot that weren't topped/fimmed........going to have to do some serious work on supports on a lot........serious work...

Something of interest regarding that (I have always explained it to people this way, real life..)..Look at plant......Okay, now.....wet/dry ratio is about 10-1....so, on larger, let's say that comes out to a bag or two of dog food in weight on that plant...(What I recently told a partner: "Imagine throwing 2 bags of dog food near the top of that plant...okay, now...what do you think is going to happen to that plant?.......)

Note: I was always curious about that, and, I have weighed wet loads in past....it's about 10-1.. roughly a tad more.......ie: For every 1,000 lbs cut, it's about 125-150lbs dry, trimmed, finished, bagged, etc......(As always, I round lower, so....could say 85/15%, but, just choose the 10-1 straight...."Wet/cut" meaning cut, bagged, before put in trucks weighed.....because in times when we have taken it and not hung outside, we just divide by wet weight....

 

[pico]

We didn't close on the property till mid July. Plants were in the ground pretty quick after closing. Holes are anywhere from 10-20 bags of soil each. Mix of Foxfarm, powerflower, and perlite. Plants were maybe half that size when they went in. Growing very fast in the ground. Botanicare nutrients. This garden is not all mine, but I am helping grow, providing supplies, and have my medical card on there. A joint venture.

 

[Julian]

We didn't close on the property till mid July. Plants were in the ground pretty quick after closing.

YES, yes,yes, yes.........that's what I'm talking about

(veg center elsewhere and they were ready to go in at close, right? )

Thank you.....(another real life example of my positions )

(Sept 1st first payment due, everything coming in shortly thereafter )....

Holes are anywhere from 10-20 bags of soil each. Mix of Foxfarm, powerflower, and perlite.

Plants were maybe half that size when they went in. Growing very fast in the ground.

Of course....going in that size, prepped holes and I assume irrigation or regular waterings....absolutely should do very well....(I had mine above from July 1-Aug 1....went from like 1 foot to many up to 6.....)

Botanicare nutrients. This garden is not all mine, but I am helping grow, providing supplies, and have my medical card on there. A joint venture.

Sounds/looks good......(were starts yours?...).....

So your the true "engineer" .....Very cool ....very cool.....(Have you always done out?....I know your in's.....but, many outs before?...)

(Too bad I don't "know" ya....I have at least 10 recommendations/scripts, whatever they do out there if I want to use them..)

 

[pico]

yeah vegged elsewhere and brought to the property and dropped in the ground. Raw property for 35k. 1500 gallon water tank for $700. 12 pallets of soil at 600 a pallet. Next year I am figuring out a better deal than that, but this year we were late so we paid the price. Now I have contacts with a soil scientist and mixing company that will do custom mixes and deliver semi truckloads in big totes instead of bags.

Don't have irrigation lines set up on this one. handwatered every day.

Some of the starts were mine, some came from others. I am helping out with a lot of things on this one while staying as far removed as possible. Sounds like you need to put some scripts to use . We are already doing the max number of scripts we can on this spot. I don't want to post a picture of everything, just a taste. I don't do a lot of outs, I mainly do inside stuff. But i have been around a lot of outdoor stuff as a lot of friends mainly do that.

 

[Julian]

yeah vegged elsewhere and brought to the property and dropped in the ground.

That's the way brother!

Raw property for 35k. 1500 gallon water tank for $700. 12 pallets of soil at 600 a pallet.

Visa commercial?

You guys going to pay off land?, or float it, and do another?

Next year I am figuring out a better deal than that, but this year we were late so we paid the price.

Well, I know it's a little different with you guys out West, but, for me, always did that for safety...(minimal exposure, etc.....limited time /exposure, etc....)

Now I have contacts with a soil scientist and mixing company that will do custom mixes and deliver semi truckloads in big totes instead of bags.

Might not be a bad idea to start, or get into/a piece of landscaping company for those deliveries either ...

Don't have irrigation lines set up on this one. handwatered every day.

Just wondering.....if access/travel isn't an issue, I would be around my things more often also...

Some of the starts were mine, some came from others. I am helping out with a lot of things on this one while staying as far removed as possible.

I got cha .....

Sounds like you need to put some scripts to use .

Well....I'm not out there, so....was actually talking with friend who owns stuff about a rental (which would give me utilities bills and CA drivers license and script ...and....ummm.....being there.........occasionally .....)

These are all minor casual smokers.....would give me caregiver status for minor gifts ......(maybe a z a month each.....they're not heavy smokers, and, have no interest in growing....maybe throw in a nice Christmas gift if a great year )...(I'm not impeccable on regs out there, but, have a fairly good idea......)

We are already doing the max number of scripts we can on this spot. I don't want to post a picture of everything, just a taste.

Don't have to, don't need to, and, I don't want you to

I understand the concept of "just a taste " ....

I don't do a lot of outs, I mainly do inside stuff. But i have been around a lot of outdoor stuff as a lot of friends mainly do that.

I thought as much....was just wondering......I really like outs over ins for many reasons...many reasons.......sure your starting to figure out what those are as you go along

Note: You guys (West) and lack of rainfall also have it a lot better off than others in different places........rainfall takes it's toll in many minor ways.....hurts the product...(my out bubble never really full melt as one example.....)

Edit: Yeah....600 a pallet....seems a little steep......lot of good places for bulk organics also...(50lbs bags for 25-30 bucks), pallets worm castings, etc.....I could PM you a link for a place that in your general neighborhood...

 

[pico]

We grew outdoor up in Alaska where it rains a ton. The only way you could do it was light dep. Have to start that stuff flowering way early during the summer when days are still 20+ hours long. We would do either blackout tents or covered trenches. everything in pots and moved in/out every day. By the time stuff would flower in full sun it would be raining almost every day. Up there it is legal to do 24 plants or something like that. Not medical, just state law. Ravin vs. State of AK, right to privacy.

In AK you had to cover the plants all night because it is always light out. But down south you can just cover them at 6pm or so and then uncover when it gets dark. That way the plants are not covered all night in stagnant air. The nice thing about light dep is that you have bud ready months before everyone else and are able to drop it quick for top dollar. Then you have money for the rest of the season and your full sun plants. You can afford to hold on to your full sun crop around harvest time and sell it later in the year when prices stabilize. If you were really on it, you could do 2-3 light dep harvests a year.


.......Legally growing truckloads of marijuana....Priceless.

I have heard that the Oakland Warehouse scene is where it is at for indoor. I guess you can do 72 plants per script. The electric rates are almost 40 cents per KWH there which is a bit rough. I pay less than 10 currently.

 

[Julian]

We grew outdoor up in Alaska where it rains a ton. The only way you could do it was light dep. Have to start that stuff flowering way early during the summer when days are still 20+ hours long. We would do either blackout tents or covered trenches. everything in pots and moved in/out every day. By the time stuff would flower in full sun it would be raining almost every day. Up there it is legal to do 24 plants or something like that. Not medical, just state law. Ravin vs. State of AK, right to privacy.

In AK you had to cover the plants all night because it is always light out. But down south you can just cover them at 6pm or so and then uncover when it gets dark. That way the plants are not covered all night in stagnant air. The nice thing about light dep is that you have bud ready months before everyone else and are able to drop it quick for top dollar. Then you have money for the rest of the season and your full sun plants. You can afford to hold on to your full sun crop around harvest time and sell it later in the year when prices stabilize. If you were really on it, you could do 2-3 light dep harvests a year.

I have just been talking to someone lately about Alaska.....(old friend, has been spending a lot of time there and now thinking about completely relocating, etc.....went into pretty heavy detail for me about many, many things, and, that subject came up He was seeking a little info and assistance



Interesting.........

....Legally growing truckloads of marijuana....Priceless.

legal or not...........it always is



(heavy sigh.......)

I have heard that the Oakland Warehouse scene is where it is at for indoor. I guess you can do 72 plants per script. The electric rates are almost 40 cents per KWH there which is a bit rough. I pay less than 10 currently.

The same always my understanding........wasn't aware of 40.....WOW........(I think most places are 8-15+/-...)

 

[Julian]

A Tree Grows in Brooklyn

I was thinking of that book/title for some reason tonight, (and, of course, struck me for some reason as funny as all hell ). So, anyway, I decided to go hit a city spot fairly close to the other one that got cracked recently, (maybe 2-3 blocks down the tracks in other direction...) because I knew there were some there that were pretty far along last time I saw them (Aug 1st more or less....) and they were about ready....(maybe should have waited a week, but, wasn't making that visit for nothing and going back....(was about 3:30am, and, I "created" yet another entry point to those spots, not using any I have ever used before...ie: coming in altogether from a completely different direction... )

Anyway, I promised RC earlier a pic of them, and, while I couldn't get one at 3:30am since buildings less than 30 feet away and street and nearby possibly under surveillance, I still wanted to get ya one, so.....RC, here you go....single stalk, 3 foot plants.....ultimate in stealth more or less... (Carton about a foot...That spot is obviously fine )

(Should be noted I bagged all others but carried that one whole down street to my car... and, yes, I am serious, I did .........(actually, I think that's when "A Tree Grows in Brooklyn" came to me...............I figured I would be to car before my laughing would draw any attention, or, people would probably pay no attention and think it was just a drunk person laughing loud at nothing )

Also, maybe of interest, and, to add to all the above, this weeks cut, (cut 3 days ago) all dry and clipped today, ready to be bagged. (Actually not sure what this one is.....not the Maroc, not the Purple Power, obviously......wish I knew which it was.....did , as always, far too many different things.....fairly nice overall....plants were good sized, solid....should have put a pack of smokes for perspective...actually quite large...and, yes, I know, wasn't done clipping but as I was thought looked nice and I should take a pic..... ...)

 

[phrank]

Julian U R...

Julian U R...

Always enlightening! The three foot single stalker was planted when? About how much do you think it will yield?

ever curious,

phrank

 

[WAMEN]

 

[Julian]

Always enlightening! The three foot single stalker was planted when? About how much do you think it will yield?

ever curious,

Well, that one and all others in that spot were done earlier, and, I had no idea, as said before I knew those (FMS PP's) would finish as early (or Marocs) as they have, so....I can't take credit for those engineering those in that case (actually, I was very , very concerned early on that I started city spots too early and they were going to get wayyyyy to big on me and cause a problem, but, as you see, I mean, those must have triggered the minute I put them in (still not sure if it was a light issue or if they are that early.....as above....My understanding was the Marocs were actually the earliest....with the best dates I saw in my research coming in at about Sept 1st (note, I started cutting those Aug 1st), and, with the PP's coming in, from my understanding, at, about Mid Sept...(started those as above......recently also.....)

Now, all others done, at any spot, have done exactly what they were expected to do, and, many others in same spot as the above haven't even started........so...I'm going to do a little more checking on those and dates....starting to think more and more I triggered them..(I always keep everything at 24/0......but, don't really have a problem most of the time, but, for the latest (Marocs and PP's)......I really have little choice but to think I triggered em..(finishing at Aug 1st????....little too early.....) Everything else pretty much where it should be....some underway now, some just starting etc....One in same spot as above, the same...just now getting underway....but, that is essentially what the later ones should come out to be.......textbook late for the most part....(page 3-4 or so?.....) Those are also city spots, no holes, and, the soil mentioned, so.....I'm sure they would have come out much bigger in a fully prepped hole, but, for those spots, I don't want them to....

(By the growth I have gotten in the bigger one......thank god As above, lot of city ones earlier.....were all getting a little too big as is, but, if they would have matched the growth at my larger one? well (see above pics....Have a lot over/out there at the other well over 10ft for quite a while, so.....city ones I start some time in late June, so...must have triggered quick it seems....

Yield?....no idea, but, they are pretty solid because they get full sun from sun up to dun down......(there are a couple pics of it above.....rocks, sand, soot, etc .....surface gets baked....good for yield when adequate moisture, but, dry period later in year....can get a little too hot.....surface temps over there....I wouldn't doubt like 150's (rocks absorbing heat all day long......) That's what I like about all those spots.......pure sun all day and heavy, heavy winds from trains....I always get very nice solid stuff from those...(Many say that's some of the overall best quality actually ...)

Edit: As somewhere above/earlier in thread Was my original intention to run the marocs completely in all city spots , (I only did a couple hundred for a test run) due to lot of sun, and earlier finish, but, just didn't work out that way.....they would have turned out better (more sun) and, I could have wrapped up those city spots a lot sooner and not have to be worrying about a couple of them (city spots) now.....(ie: now I still have a couple spots with a fair number in spots very close to the one recently cracked.......so......Would have been better if I just would have run those (Marocs) in those spots, as I originally thought I would, and, that would have been that.....(But, then again they would have been just as small, so......) Ones left are about same size as single stalkers above, but, little bushy and just starting to flower....so....still hope they don't get too big....

Should also be noted, and, of interest to me.....those are the only ones out of all spots that actually seem to be coming in anywhere close when I thought they should be...(as above.....those could have easily used another week, (making it about Sept 1st...) but, very hot lately around there.....I wasn't about to even think of making another unnecessary trip....so........I cut those, got them out of there, and, now can basically just stay the hell away from that spot until Oct 31st more or less....which I like...(8 weeks, no visit.......really nothing more safe for me at this specific time, in that specific area.........so...yeah, a little early, but, now...no reason to go back for 2 months ...)

 

[pakalolo420]

Great thread again J. My no maintenance girls are doing fine for the most part.

My question concerns staking and tying. I usually have just whittled up stakes from whatever I find handy and driven the pointy ends far into the dirt and used twist ties to secure the branches. It usually will keep the heavy side branches from winding up in the dirt in the first big Fall storm, but I wonder if there's a better way? It takes a long time and I'd like something a little more squared away.

 

[Julian]

Great thread again J. My no maintenance girls are doing fine for the most part.

Thanks brother...Good to hear.....same out this way... Have been out and swamped past couple days, so. (I'll have a better idea next time....might have some shots...)

My question concerns staking and tying. I usually have just whittled up stakes from whatever I find handy and driven the pointy ends far into the dirt and used twist ties to secure the branches. It usually will keep the heavy side branches from winding up in the dirt in the first big Fall storm, but I wonder if there's a better way? It takes a long time and I'd like something a little more squared away.

Well, I usually like em topped and have less issues across the board because of it, but, this year, far to many not.....We basically just try and find as many suitable branches as possible (on site) to do the job(s)....just due to the size and height issues, think we're going to have to use other measures...

Some people stake and tie, which is of course an issue, and/or can be an issue (ie: a deer running through, over/across your lines....etc....ripping everything down)...As above, we usually use whatever branches on site for support...again, not applicable with the height, so....Have to go when I get a chance and take a look and see what is applicable...(tie to one side, opposite the lean......Possibly tie to something higher/overhanging.....similar to indoor trees and ceiling, using tree branches above......I know a lot use tent stakes, but, again, your stringing lines which could be hit by animals.....so, you see....couple different ways depending on what needs to be done and your spot(s), etc.....Someone in past suggested shaving down end and using 2 x 4's for large stakes.....then tying main stem to.......something I gave consideration to...which actually might not be too bad of an idea....I actually think this is probably going to be one of my worst years with those issues, and, am none to happy about it either...(it's starting to come to the "Loss comes out of your end, as directions were not followed by you, etc"....)So.....

1. On site branches
2. Stakes and tied....
3. Off site supports (2 x 4's for main stems.....6+ ft, etc...)

(See, all above reason why I like them topped to begin with....across the board stronger, less issues, and, of course, less mold issues with tops, etc......starting to have the feeling this is going to be a wet fall.....Hope something changes and I am wrong......starting to get a little concerned...know we've discussed this season previously, and, how an unusual one....(knock on wood), hope I'm wrong.........we'll see in upcoming weeks I guess .....coming into home stretch shortly....so.....

 

[PHB]

Some people stake and tie...

I remembered in another thread that TomHill throws a plastic plant trellis over his plant and allows them to grow through the trellis which then supports the entire plant.

In this thread Tom describes his approach...

...I've been using a plastic plant trellis like the scrog boys use made by hortonova. Attach 2 59'' sections with zipties for an aprox 10' X 10' swatch. Then I throw this over the plants about 2 weeks before the end of stretch (about a week or two from now where I'm at) & let the plant grow through this. Then the plants hold themselves up for the most part with minimal help from bamboo stakes & duct tape

Tom

PS http://www.icmag.com/ic/links.php?u...rtonova_Trellis_59_x_3280_Roll.html?welcome=T

In this thread Tom adds a bit more explanation...

... EV, the only staking/tying thus far has been the two stakes per plant to hold the meristem upright fruit tree style. In about 10 days a plastic netting gets thrown over. Branches grow through this & it does a great job of tying the whole plant up with the help a a few large stakes to keep the whole thing from falling over.

HTH,
PHB