'Boogieman'
Well-known member
Where I live most cornfields have large irrigation ditches, many people grow in those ditches and get good results.
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Many Forest Gorillas vs Several Forest and Well Tended Plants
- Thread starter TychoMonolyth
- Start date
TychoMonolyth
Boreal Curing
I love drainage ditches. Some of ours are 12 feet deep.
TychoMonolyth
Boreal Curing
TychoMonolyth
Boreal Curing
People here have a wealth of tips and tricks. It's awesome.
I've been reading about mold (Gray Mold/ Botrytis Cinerea) that attack weed plants, especially at harvest time in a high humidity environment. It seems that botrytis just LOVES nitrogen. Very green buds will act like a magnet to mold.
From the farmer's almanac:
"Moisture is one of the main causes of gray mold. The wetter your plants are, the more susceptible they are to becoming infected. Your plants also must be injured before they can become infected. Be careful around your plants to prevent this."
So that means defoliation too early really raises your risk of mold. I plan on defoliating, but now I'll wait until a week before I'm ready to take them, but only to speed the harvest.
My thoughts are to try and eliminate as much N from the plants as possible at flowering time. I can't do much about what is already in the soil or the plant, but I can eliminate it if I feed. I plan on getting Mono Potassium Phosphate (NKP) from the local co-op to feed the plants every week or 2. Mono Potassium Phosphate has an NPK of about 0-52-34.
Anyone see a downside to this?
I've been reading about mold (Gray Mold/ Botrytis Cinerea) that attack weed plants, especially at harvest time in a high humidity environment. It seems that botrytis just LOVES nitrogen. Very green buds will act like a magnet to mold.
From the farmer's almanac:
"Moisture is one of the main causes of gray mold. The wetter your plants are, the more susceptible they are to becoming infected. Your plants also must be injured before they can become infected. Be careful around your plants to prevent this."
So that means defoliation too early really raises your risk of mold. I plan on defoliating, but now I'll wait until a week before I'm ready to take them, but only to speed the harvest.
My thoughts are to try and eliminate as much N from the plants as possible at flowering time. I can't do much about what is already in the soil or the plant, but I can eliminate it if I feed. I plan on getting Mono Potassium Phosphate (NKP) from the local co-op to feed the plants every week or 2. Mono Potassium Phosphate has an NPK of about 0-52-34.
Anyone see a downside to this?
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=351481
This thread may be the place to ask about your mono pot phos question. Yes thread has to do with soils, but many very smart minds in there. Way smarter than I lol
This thread may be the place to ask about your mono pot phos question. Yes thread has to do with soils, but many very smart minds in there. Way smarter than I lol
I don’t have a lot of input on the fertility plan other than it sounds like it could work. ( weekly apps sound extreme with those #’s on the fert though unless 1/4-1/2 strength is used)
If you wanted to check what’s available to the plant you could take a soil sample and do a slurry test. Equal dry ounces of soil combined with equal ounces of distilled or ro water. Use a tds meter to see total TDS available.
As far as botrytis, the morning dew is enough to help it multiply.
And it doesn’t need an injury to start. The almanac is saying it needs dead tissue I believe by indicating an injury.
Dead pistils are the primary starting point providing the spore is already there. Anytime humidity is above 80%, along with dead tissue,( pistils) + spore, botrytis is possible.
Ibechillin
Masochist Educator
I read that by foliar spraying with something to raise the ph of the plants leafs more alkaline (around 8 ph) will kill and stop fungi from colonizing.
True .there is a video on youtube doing this.
They spray with very high ph water like 8.5 or higher
Thats for mold basicly...
Then u spray 5 minutes later a very low ph 5 or lower i think and that kills off the bugs and brings the ph back to normal levels
Im my eyes its genious pest and mold control
TychoMonolyth
Boreal Curing
I'll have to look for that.
I'd say also give the surrounding vegetation a little consideration as well. I only say that because mold has to spread from somewhere via spores. So maybe people have been contaminating their own plants unknowingly because they walk over something with it or brush against something on the way to the plot. I thought this might be a common thing because in my little experience I've never really paid attention before on my way to the plots or anything. I was reading about mold and it hit me. We could all be subjecting the plants during the fall and some may never even get it because the plants don't have injuries and are healthy or just resilient, but as soon as you chop it or do some defoliation boom here's the grey mold coming out of what seems like nowhere.. idk maybe I'm just thinking too into it, but I was always just thinking to myself that the mold has to come from somewhere it's not magic or anything. I've been considering greencure because if it is good enough for silverback it's good enough for me lol. But if anyone has a better product/ methods I'm all ears
TychoMonolyth
Boreal Curing
Good point.
Just like you can pollinate a plant with pollen on your clothes.
Greencure isn't available in Canada I think. I read somewhere that baking soda would work and is close to greencure.
TychoMonolyth
Boreal Curing
On the current grow, I put a dozen plants in a buddy's yard behind what used to be the manure pile (50 years ago) for the large unused chicken coop he has. He's starting to panic because they're exploding. I didn't have the heart to tell him they haven't even started to stretch yet. They're going to be monsters. lol
<3
TychoMonolyth
Boreal Curing
When I put them in he put red lane way reflectors next to each plant so he could see where they were in the long grass. lol
Nothing like putting up a bullseye.
This is as much fun as when I slid in a NL Auto in with the tomato plants at the local nursery this spring. I even put a bar code on it so it scans as a tomato plant at the cash. lol
Nothing like putting up a bullseye.
This is as much fun as when I slid in a NL Auto in with the tomato plants at the local nursery this spring. I even put a bar code on it so it scans as a tomato plant at the cash. lol
LOL! 
Was going to suggest to spray sulfocalcic (Calcic Polysulfur) on them... one of the main venues to prevent molds, and other fungus, is preventive spraying, both on the plants and surrounding ones.
You can make it with Sulfur and either quick (better results) or regular lime. End up with a yellow-reddish liquid you mix with water. It's allowed for ecological growing, in fact acts as fertilizer for the plants.
This should be done sober and outdoors (fine sulfur powder and open flames are a dangerous mix) rig: metal drums, plastic drums, filter/strainer and a gas stove or fire from timber.
Haven't found a video in English, but can describe the process if you need, the guy at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xF-JfCu2X2g knows his stuff.
Moreso the leftover paste from making it is great to cover and heal trimming wounds on plants, trees, graftings, etc.
You could bring a bottle of sulfocalcic concentrate and an empty spraying backpack, then source water in the spot and spray....
Here is not uncommon for growers to spray each two weeks to prevent problems later (viable spores caught inside of older growth).
in the process of sourcing everything, as my Ciders rot a couple days after female flowers are polinized (damned rot fungus).
Was going to suggest to spray sulfocalcic (Calcic Polysulfur) on them... one of the main venues to prevent molds, and other fungus, is preventive spraying, both on the plants and surrounding ones.
You can make it with Sulfur and either quick (better results) or regular lime. End up with a yellow-reddish liquid you mix with water. It's allowed for ecological growing, in fact acts as fertilizer for the plants.
This should be done sober and outdoors (fine sulfur powder and open flames are a dangerous mix) rig: metal drums, plastic drums, filter/strainer and a gas stove or fire from timber.
Haven't found a video in English, but can describe the process if you need, the guy at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xF-JfCu2X2g knows his stuff.
Moreso the leftover paste from making it is great to cover and heal trimming wounds on plants, trees, graftings, etc.
You could bring a bottle of sulfocalcic concentrate and an empty spraying backpack, then source water in the spot and spray....
Here is not uncommon for growers to spray each two weeks to prevent problems later (viable spores caught inside of older growth).
in the process of sourcing everything, as my Ciders rot a couple days after female flowers are polinized (damned rot fungus).
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In summary:
- X Kgs of sulfur
- X/2 Kgs of quick lime
- 5X Liters of water
- Safety googles
- Safety gloves (careful with quick lime!!)
- Safety mask
Let's say we're using 1Kg of sulfur, and 1/2Kg of quick lime: 5L of water total will "yield" around 4L of Calcic Polysulfur concentrate (CaSx).
Day one
1.- Quick Lime Slaking
1.1.- Pour 1/4L of water on a metal bucket
1.2.- Add 1/2Kg of quick lime
Leave it reacting for next day.
2.- Sulfur dilution
2.1.- Pour between 1,5-2 Liters of water on a plastic bucket
2.2.- Pour the sulfur (1Kg) and mix it until it dissolves.
Day two: preparation (Outdoors!)
With cold water (no heating yet)
1.- Pour the remaining water on a metal bucket, or old pot. Cooking pot from now on.
2.- Have a bucket with more (extra) water ready.
3.- Pour the slaked lime (will be crystals) inside the cooking pot.
4.- Pour the diluted sulfur inside the cooking pot.
5.- start the fire on the cooking pot, put on safety mask
6.- mix and keep mixing, avoid inhaling the fumes
7.- Wait watching closely for it to start boiling
8.- When it starts boiling, pour cold water on it to stop the boiling.
Repeat 6-8 three or four times. Overall process will take around an hour.
9.- turn off the fire.
10.- Leave it cooling/reacting until next day.
Day three
Check the "soup" (see 10:05 at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xF-JfCu2X2g). Is it normal to have precipitates on top.
Color on the top should be a reddish orange (brick orange, see 10:25 at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xF-JfCu2X2g). The darker, the more concentrated has been the result. If it tends to yellow or light orange, it will mean reaction wasn't thorough.
1.- Strain it into plastic containers.
2.- Discard the bottom, yellowish liquid
3.- Keep and Store the yellowish SulfoCalcic paste in the bottom (great for trimming wounds, grafts, sanitize a pruned stem due to rot/mold etc)
Tip: if you want to store it for extended periods of time without it oxidizing, fill the containers to the brim, then add a thin oil layer to create a surface that isolates the liquid from air.
You can measure the degree of concentration with a Baumé Hydrometer if desired.
To apply: dilute 30-20ml per liter and spray. Use the cleanest water possible, water with soil diluted reacts with the calcic polysulfur deactivating it.
Prevents botrytis, mildiu, grey mold and fungus-induced diseases (kills spores). Due to the sulfur contents, it fights thrips and mites too.
Avoid using it on Cucurbitaceae family plants, as it induces premature aging. Widely used with peppers and tomatoes at the dosages described.
- X Kgs of sulfur
- X/2 Kgs of quick lime
- 5X Liters of water
- Safety googles
- Safety gloves (careful with quick lime!!)
- Safety mask
Let's say we're using 1Kg of sulfur, and 1/2Kg of quick lime: 5L of water total will "yield" around 4L of Calcic Polysulfur concentrate (CaSx).
Day one
1.- Quick Lime Slaking
1.1.- Pour 1/4L of water on a metal bucket
1.2.- Add 1/2Kg of quick lime
Leave it reacting for next day.
2.- Sulfur dilution
2.1.- Pour between 1,5-2 Liters of water on a plastic bucket
2.2.- Pour the sulfur (1Kg) and mix it until it dissolves.
Day two: preparation (Outdoors!)
With cold water (no heating yet)
1.- Pour the remaining water on a metal bucket, or old pot. Cooking pot from now on.
2.- Have a bucket with more (extra) water ready.
3.- Pour the slaked lime (will be crystals) inside the cooking pot.
4.- Pour the diluted sulfur inside the cooking pot.
5.- start the fire on the cooking pot, put on safety mask
6.- mix and keep mixing, avoid inhaling the fumes
7.- Wait watching closely for it to start boiling
8.- When it starts boiling, pour cold water on it to stop the boiling.
Repeat 6-8 three or four times. Overall process will take around an hour.
9.- turn off the fire.
10.- Leave it cooling/reacting until next day.
Day three
Check the "soup" (see 10:05 at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xF-JfCu2X2g). Is it normal to have precipitates on top.
Color on the top should be a reddish orange (brick orange, see 10:25 at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xF-JfCu2X2g). The darker, the more concentrated has been the result. If it tends to yellow or light orange, it will mean reaction wasn't thorough.
1.- Strain it into plastic containers.
2.- Discard the bottom, yellowish liquid
3.- Keep and Store the yellowish SulfoCalcic paste in the bottom (great for trimming wounds, grafts, sanitize a pruned stem due to rot/mold etc)
Tip: if you want to store it for extended periods of time without it oxidizing, fill the containers to the brim, then add a thin oil layer to create a surface that isolates the liquid from air.
You can measure the degree of concentration with a Baumé Hydrometer if desired.
To apply: dilute 30-20ml per liter and spray. Use the cleanest water possible, water with soil diluted reacts with the calcic polysulfur deactivating it.
Prevents botrytis, mildiu, grey mold and fungus-induced diseases (kills spores). Due to the sulfur contents, it fights thrips and mites too.
Avoid using it on Cucurbitaceae family plants, as it induces premature aging. Widely used with peppers and tomatoes at the dosages described.
Last edited:
