'Boogieman'
Well-known member
Crazy, it's so wet in fall where I live I can start bomb fires in the middle of a forest with no worry.
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Many Forest Gorillas vs Several Forest and Well Tended Plants
- Thread starter TychoMonolyth
- Start date
wont be to long i will be hauling bales.throw it over the shoulder and send it. helps being 6foot7 280 pounds
JustSumTomatoes
Indicas make dreams happen
This fall was insanely wet for us. All of my plants had mold to one extent or another. It's crazy how Botrytis is systemic and not just localized. You can see all those little yellow spots on the leaves all over the plant, not just the areas that have mold and bud rot.
TychoMonolyth
Boreal Curing
LMAO!!!For shits and giggles, here's some badly tended plants/shit that didn't make it, to break the monotony of sweet ass grows 'n' plants.
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Grey mold, bad stuff. Will take over a plant very fast. Rain drops, wind or just touching the plant will makes spores fly and spread the shit.
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White mold, with some grey on the side. White is not as bad as grey, but will also spread fast. Still, tricky stuff especially on fat buds, as it might grow inside out and stay unnoticed and ruin what looks to be a good cola. Some people say it's ok to make hash or butter, or smoke weed with whitey, but I won't. Usually toss the stuff to the woods to be safe.
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Autoflower micro pheno. It happens, not much you can do about it as most AF varieties seem to carry the mini/micro pheno gene or whatever. If you grow 20 autoflowskis, you might not get one. But after you grow 2000, you most likely will.
Careless transplanting/repotting might also cause this, especially if you break the taproot.. Which is not good for any plant, but especially AF strains seem to get upset by it.
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Last but not least. Grower errors, in this case weed smoking in windy & dry conditions -> sparks -> smoldering plot -> burned stems and killed the plants.. Bad luck or stupidity? Both I guess, but you be the judge. On the brights side, this didn't escalate and start a forest fire, so not the worst thing ever. Lesson learned.
Wasn't expecting that one dude. lol
My mini.
I spend a lot of time scanning visually for mold and cutting it out. I used to cut early because I was scared of mold, but I have found lately not to worry as much, just use common sense. They can take rain unless its a 3 day constant rain event. Depends on the strain. I was really surprised this year when I left them out, how little they molded. Probably did better because I've been growing in those conditions for several years now with this strain. Bud selection and becoming acclimated to local climate allows a strain to develop with improved mold resistance.
Thats funny, Badticket! I was wondering why the stems were charred! Fortunate the way it turned out. God protects us! I had a couple baby plants that didn't make it to the canopy this year. One that was the tallest snapped though so they have to be balanced.
I had a fire at plot this year, actually a few of them! I was making little fires to repel animals. I was making myself at home.
Thats funny, Badticket! I was wondering why the stems were charred! Fortunate the way it turned out. God protects us! I had a couple baby plants that didn't make it to the canopy this year. One that was the tallest snapped though so they have to be balanced.
I had a fire at plot this year, actually a few of them! I was making little fires to repel animals. I was making myself at home.
JustSumTomatoes
Indicas make dreams happen
Pipeline, do your Deep Chunk crosses tend to be susceptible to mold at all? The cross I grew out this year got hit hard.
Some are more dense than others. It seems to be really dependent on density. Most of the buds are fluffy enough they can air out a little and don't hold on to the moisture. I also do a little early pollination every year and grow seed, so they are a little more prone to mold.
Don't have much to compare it to. Some plants are more susceptible than others. Need to get serious with labeling plants and selection. Its all I can do to get the crop in. I will try to stay on top of my work and hire help this year so I have more free time. Need to pay more attention to the herb garden, and also need to meet more girls. Trying to find a good match!
Don't have much to compare it to. Some plants are more susceptible than others. Need to get serious with labeling plants and selection. Its all I can do to get the crop in. I will try to stay on top of my work and hire help this year so I have more free time. Need to pay more attention to the herb garden, and also need to meet more girls. Trying to find a good match!
JustSumTomatoes
Indicas make dreams happen
Come to think of it I pollinated my plants this year to make more seed and noticed way more mold than in the past. I attributed it to all this rain, but maybe that was a factor too.
TychoMonolyth
Boreal Curing
On the Roundup (glyphosate) suggestion...
On the Roundup (glyphosate) suggestion...
Bayer shares plunge 14% after Roundup hit with $289M lawsuit over cancer link. That's the second. A previous suit cost them 78 million, and there are literally thousands of suits coming up the rear.
https://www.cnn.com/2019/03/20/health/monsanto-verdict-federal/index.html
https://www.cbc.ca/news/business/bayer-monsanto-roundup-1.4783530
On the Roundup (glyphosate) suggestion...
Bayer shares plunge 14% after Roundup hit with $289M lawsuit over cancer link. That's the second. A previous suit cost them 78 million, and there are literally thousands of suits coming up the rear.
https://www.cnn.com/2019/03/20/health/monsanto-verdict-federal/index.html
https://www.cbc.ca/news/business/bayer-monsanto-roundup-1.4783530
Ibechillin
Masochist Educator
Ive been thinking about a doing a native soil guerrilla grow with the 47 bagseeds I have. Plan is to germinate the seeds June 25th and plant in the guerrilla spot July 14th to give them 8 weeks after sprouting before starting to flower. I havent decided on hole size or plant spacing yet though and was hoping to discuss it some.
Tycho mentioned making 7 inch diameter by 12 inch deep holes with the cordless auger and I think planting late may/early June (~6 weeks before I plan to plant outdoors). Roughly how tall and wide do your plants typically grow/finish at in that size of hole?
Wondering if 1 square ft per plant wont be enough in rows spaced 2 feet apart for a bunch of small plants or if 4 square foot per plant would be necessary?
Tycho mentioned making 7 inch diameter by 12 inch deep holes with the cordless auger and I think planting late may/early June (~6 weeks before I plan to plant outdoors). Roughly how tall and wide do your plants typically grow/finish at in that size of hole?
Wondering if 1 square ft per plant wont be enough in rows spaced 2 feet apart for a bunch of small plants or if 4 square foot per plant would be necessary?
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TychoMonolyth
Boreal Curing
June 25? That's late for popping seeds don't you think? I put my late starts in the ground 1st week of July and they're only good for hash because it's almost all larf. Most strains can work, but you don't have much veg time then, so yields are small.
Add a cup of hot nutes to the bottom of the holes when you dig them Mid May, a couple weeks later when you plant your seedlings add a cup of compost under your plants. I did that in native soil, June 1st, when the seedlings were 4-6 weeks old and they hit 6' by September 1st and screaming to be harvested (GG4). 2 feet apart? I go 3' and feed them and they fill in (but I don't know what you're growing).
Note that Potassium and Phosphate molecules will attach themselves to the soil and stay, but Nitrogen molecules are bigger and will flush away, so make sure you have enough nitrogen in your hot mix and compost. The best nitrogen I've found to add is dumped in fields where corn will be planted. It's timed released (by heat). Corn is a little yellow until it gets about 2 feet high, then you seed a burst of green and a huge growth spurt because the temperature starts getting up there and nitrogen is releasing. You can almost hear corn grow at that point. This is what I grab when I see it in the fall. It's either light gray or almost white.
(The stuff on the left.) But if you see the white stuff in the spring (any time now), grab a bucket full. lol (use it sparingly)
But I'm sure you can get some at a farm supply or coop. Fresh cow manure has the most nitrogen is will rock your plants. The composted stuff barely has any, so don't rely on it for nitro.
If your plants aren't hauling ass by July 1st, I'd consider it an emergency, and you have to get nitrogen to it via a light foliar feeding and hotter top dressing (keep the top dressing away from the stalk). That'll put them into overdrive. If you don't, it'll affect your yield.
Ibechillin
Masochist Educator
Thanks for the reply Tycho, yeah its pretty late to be starting seeds haha. I started some seeds recently I plan on putting in my back yard May through October in fabric pots to get large for my main crop. I was thinking about trialing my native soil with later started bagseed extras sea of green style/size aiming for maybe an oz per plant. If planting 4 week old seedlings July 1st resulted in all larf and June 1st has potential for ~6 ft plants with actual buds its clear when to start the seeds and plant lol. I have the supplies to do it right so why F*** around? 3 ft spacing sounds great 18' X 24' space for the June 1st planted.
I read chicken is the most nutrient dense manure so I bought a $10 50lb bag of Nutri Rich 4-3-2 & 7% calcium organic aged/composted chicken manure pellets to use as my base/slow release feed this season. My native soil is basal till: acidic ph around 5.5, compact and not well draining upper layer then hardpan starts at about 10 inches depth. Ive been reading the organic matter can help reduce upper layer soil compaction, improve drainage and release locked up nutrients in clay. My thinking is to fertilize a 20' x 25' 500 sq ft area 4 weeks or so ahead of planting with gypsum, humic acid, alfalfa pellets and chicken manure pellets graciously then dolomite lime as needed. The worms love alfalfa and I figure by treating the space as a big worm bin around the time soil temps reach optimal late April they can work the soil for me to make digging easier among their many other benefits
. After planted in ground I have a 1.5lb container of Jack's classic blossom booster 10-30-20 (elemental NPK 10-13-16.6) I plan to use through veg and flower at 1/4 tsp per gallon water once a week. Or with every watering once established for soluble/readily available nutrients until flush like DoubleTripleOG mentioned last year.
I hurt my yield bad 2017 with my outdoor Blue Cheese plant falling short on nitrogen before/during stretch, dont want to make that mistake again.
TychoMonolyth
Boreal Curing
Good to hear you have your soil tested. Stop at a local farm and ask if he has a little manure for sale for your garden (this is just a way to get to talk to him). Then ask the farmer what he uses for corn. That's what I do. Once they start talking, they won't shut up. Just keep probing for answers about Nitrogen and shit. lol. You'll be surprised how technical they are. Here's one useful tip I got from an old cousin who farms:
Soybean creates it's own nitrogen! If you pull up a plant when the pods are forming, you'll see little red nodules on the roots. That's 100% nitrogen. After harvest (the next year) 5% of that nitrogen remains in the soil. So if you cut down the Soybean plants early while the pods are forming, you can get up to 50% of their nitrogen to remain and locked on the plant roots for the next season. I'm planning on pulling up some young Soybean plants and using the roots in my tea this year. July should be about perfect timing.
Without testing, if weeds are healthy, your plants will be. I planted in one spot last year that was cleared (farmer clearing a forest for more land). Nice black humus. I thought they'd rock there because not many weeds to compete with. Big mistake. 1 foot tall plants and only a couple grams each. But the deeper into the weeds I went, the bigger my plants got. Lesson learned.
Chicken pellets rock and that's a great price. It's twice that here. I'll broadcast it over my grow spots when I start prepping my holes.
Soybean creates it's own nitrogen! If you pull up a plant when the pods are forming, you'll see little red nodules on the roots. That's 100% nitrogen. After harvest (the next year) 5% of that nitrogen remains in the soil. So if you cut down the Soybean plants early while the pods are forming, you can get up to 50% of their nitrogen to remain and locked on the plant roots for the next season. I'm planning on pulling up some young Soybean plants and using the roots in my tea this year. July should be about perfect timing.
Without testing, if weeds are healthy, your plants will be. I planted in one spot last year that was cleared (farmer clearing a forest for more land). Nice black humus. I thought they'd rock there because not many weeds to compete with. Big mistake. 1 foot tall plants and only a couple grams each. But the deeper into the weeds I went, the bigger my plants got. Lesson learned.
Chicken pellets rock and that's a great price. It's twice that here. I'll broadcast it over my grow spots when I start prepping my holes.
TychoMonolyth
Boreal Curing
I missed this. Keep in mind that when you pollinate a plant the bud density goes way up.
Ibechillin
Masochist Educator
Not sure if you found you answer to this. Sam_skunkman has mentioned seeding a plant heavily or pollinating late can cause mix matched seed sizes from the same plant and pollen donor.
This link explains the seed size is inherited by the female's calyx size:
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php?p=8205670&postcount=34
Meaning the larger and smaller seeds could be different phenos if pollinated at the same time with same pollen if you didnt coat the plants completely in pollen.
TychoMonolyth
Boreal Curing
Results
Results
I've done both, and tending to a few plants properly far outweighs an untended forest. By a landslide.
Results
I've done both, and tending to a few plants properly far outweighs an untended forest. By a landslide.
- 4 well tended plants = 50 untended. Seems extreme, but it's true.
. - Spend a bit of time on a good hole. It doesn't have to be huge. 3 feet wide x 2 feet deep is more than enough. Just fertilize it with a high N and a med P&K. Add a cup of Stone Cut Large Flake Oat Meal. Rice is good too. You want feed the biology and that means Carbohydrates. I've had 2x2 holes that produced well. But the bigger, the better.
. - Water the fuckers. If you can't, use water crystals in your holes. Lots of them. Use a half cup in your 3x2 hole and mix it in. In any case, you need to water them well at planting time. Or else.
. - Fertilize your plot. Rain runoff is your friend.
. - Cage your plants. Don't cage them and 75-85% of your plants will disappear or get pulled up.
. - Trim the surrounding weeds. Do it by hand if you have to, and do it 4 times during the growing season. This will double or even triple your yield, plus it'll help keep mold and mice at bay.
. - Start them indoor in April and move them out in June. Transplant them as they grow. They should end up in about 3 gallon pots by the time they go out. (2gl is still good though)
MountainBudz
⛽🦨 Kinebud and Heirloom Preservationist! 🦨 ⛽
In my experience, the size of the seed correlates with the size of the calyx. This is true..
