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Looking for guerillas with leaf spot diease experience.
- Thread starter hamstring
- Start date
any resileincy my plants have shown is probably strain related...since these are a 1980s seedbank variety they may be closer to landrace genetics ...but i could be wrong !!
the spots are staying off the buds and on the leaf !!
sep 20th
ive spent hours picking off fan leaves the last few weeks ...
the spots are staying off the buds and on the leaf !!
sep 20th
ive spent hours picking off fan leaves the last few weeks ...
I found me some LC at Westlake Ace Hardware Store.It was called Ortho EcoSense Garden Disease Control.
I sprayed my plants yesterday with LC and they have about a little under 2 weeks to go. The temps have dropped off alot and their is no rain in the forecast.
I was wondering if i gave the plants a really good foilar spray in the morning a couple of days before harvest? Will this take off any residue.I tried my best to just spray the leaves and not the buds.
I sprayed my plants yesterday with LC and they have about a little under 2 weeks to go. The temps have dropped off alot and their is no rain in the forecast.
I was wondering if i gave the plants a really good foilar spray in the morning a couple of days before harvest? Will this take off any residue.I tried my best to just spray the leaves and not the buds.
i have the same problems ...few plants more, few plants less...
WHAT WOULD YOU SAY....CAN WE SMOKE THE UNINVOLVED BUD???
because most of the signs show on the bigger leaves and on the stems ......but the bacteria/virus/septoria/what-so-ever should be in the whole plant....so my question:
CAN WE SMOKE THE BUD....even if you dont see any brown spots or holes in the "resin area" or buds ...???????
happy for any answers from people who really know....THX!
WHAT WOULD YOU SAY....CAN WE SMOKE THE UNINVOLVED BUD???
because most of the signs show on the bigger leaves and on the stems ......but the bacteria/virus/septoria/what-so-ever should be in the whole plant....so my question:
CAN WE SMOKE THE BUD....even if you dont see any brown spots or holes in the "resin area" or buds ...???????
happy for any answers from people who really know....THX!
three plants of a strain called bubba n squeak were planted in the corn only a few feet apart from each other. by the time liquid copper was brought into the picture, one was gone and all 3 were seriously infected but the two remaining recovered to the point where they will be highest yielding plants this year, by far. from the point of death, these gals were a vibrant green again after two sprayings.
as near as i can tell, at least three different varieties of leaf spot have hit plants in midwest usa and there are probably more? green cure, serenade and daconyl were not effective for me. liquid copper is the final word. peace-biteme
as near as i can tell, at least three different varieties of leaf spot have hit plants in midwest usa and there are probably more? green cure, serenade and daconyl were not effective for me. liquid copper is the final word. peace-biteme
Giving a reply based experience not on research but hell yes smoke it. The disease itself isn’t going to hurt you its more about what you are spraying on the bud to kill the disease
I smoked a bunch of bud of leaf spot infected plants last year and I am smoking it again this year. The disease is not harmful to humans as far as i understand.
I smoked a bunch of bud of leaf spot infected plants last year and I am smoking it again this year. The disease is not harmful to humans as far as i understand.
so i would like to tell you of my plants. i put some plants into some barrels this year hoping to get monsters from them. unfortunatley they got this leaf spot disease. from the sounds of it leaf spot loves hot and humid which it was. plenty of rain with lots of heat. i thought it would be a great year. the barrels were the worst of all plants grown. you really could see it progress from 1 barrel and plant to the next 1 and the next 1. right in a line? the 1st to show signs was almost a loss. the next some saved and the next better. the last in line was least affected by harvest time. the yeild was still down. if i knew i could treat it i would have. also, i have had this in the past but not as bad so i let it go to long. this year i noticed the loss. here are some pics. next year im ready at first sign. did i read correctly that it stays in the soil over winter??? i guess the barrels are never to be used again?? thats to bad?? let me know of all your opinions??
thanks, little j.
thanks, little j.
You can reuse the barrels if you want to. Just clean them real good with bleach. The thing about blight and leaf spot and all of this is that it is everywhere all the time. There is no escaping it. Some years conditions are worse than others. This year the southeast and parts of the midwest had a solid month or more of out of control heat with high nighttime humidity. Add water stress from heat during the day. A lot of people got blight. As a vegetable gardener you fight it every year all the time. Ganja is now no different.
Little J
Hey guerrilla thanks for adding to the sticky can never have too much anecdotal input.
Yes it does or can over winter in soil but I believe its much more likely to do so in ground litter so it may be ok to use the soil again. If it’s easy to refill the containers I would do so but I really don’t think you would have to get rid (just an opinion) of all of it just the top few inches should be fine.
And hey that’s what this sticky is about letting guerrillas know what to look for and how to fight this disease. One thing to keep in mind all my research and all the input from other guerrillas is that prevention is the way to go. So even if you have no sign of leaf spot (in same location of course) spray with some LC around the beginning to middle of July rather than waiting for signs to show up.
Hey guerrilla thanks for adding to the sticky can never have too much anecdotal input.
Yes it does or can over winter in soil but I believe its much more likely to do so in ground litter so it may be ok to use the soil again. If it’s easy to refill the containers I would do so but I really don’t think you would have to get rid (just an opinion) of all of it just the top few inches should be fine.
And hey that’s what this sticky is about letting guerrillas know what to look for and how to fight this disease. One thing to keep in mind all my research and all the input from other guerrillas is that prevention is the way to go. So even if you have no sign of leaf spot (in same location of course) spray with some LC around the beginning to middle of July rather than waiting for signs to show up.
E
el dub
Harvest is in. I lost about 1/3 of ALL branches to leaf spot disease. Most of the remaining dutch dragon flowers are just fine. However, about 1/3 to 1/2 of the remaining flowers on the schnazz plants are destined for the hash bin.
All in all, a tough year for me, but I learned a ton, harvested enough to get through the winter got an invitation to No Cal for next season.
Thanks for all the help, fellas.
lw
All in all, a tough year for me, but I learned a ton, harvested enough to get through the winter got an invitation to No Cal for next season.
Thanks for all the help, fellas.
lw
I thought I would add something a fellow guerilla and I spoke about over at UDG. biteme a outdoor grower also from the midwest has been dealing with this disease for 4 seasons now. He has seen it in backyard grows and even said its gotten so bad farmers do late season sprays in corn crops because its affecting corn. The one promising thing I heard is that he has been using liquid copper for a few years and its the only thing that works. He and I believe that the because the winters have been warmer and the summers wetter this shit is here to stay until the climate swings the other way.
I wanted to share my experience of fighting the disease for the 2nd year in a row. I got a tip from a fellow member that his conditions improved dramatically by treating the ground and vegetation surrounding his plants. After reading about the disease and watching my own plants, im convinced that its in the dirt. I had 2 plants further out that i didnt treat the soil and surrounding vegetation and they were the first 2 plants to get the disease and were my first dead plants. They died mid august.
Im convinced ground treatments and surrounding veg treatments are very helpful.
Im convinced ground treatments and surrounding veg treatments are very helpful.
Equisetum,if you prefer some natural prevention can do the job,and garlic also,but only prev,they have very light effect,but can help.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Equisetum
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Equisetum
i wanted to add a note here. i was visiting a friends parents and they had a book on the shelf about oraganis gardening. old as dirt and thicker than any bible i ever saw. i looked for blight real fast and found these statements. leaf spot or blight loves moisture and hot climates together. and most interesting it said it also loves high nitrogen levels. i read another post and another person says he keeps his calcium levels organized and has no problems. i grow in cow and horse poo. lots of nitro there. it was wet and hot last summer.
another note. my in ground patches did not suffer from this. just something to think about.
thanks, little j.
another note. my in ground patches did not suffer from this. just something to think about.
thanks, little j.
Your right little j. Too much nitro respirated on the leaves and its hello disease.
Ok, after weeks of reading gardening forums and technical labels, i have a treatment plan ready for the spring, based on what ive read.
1. "best practices" growing: Spray ground and surrounding dead vegetation. ulch to prevent "splash up". Reduce nitrogen/potassium fert levels.
2. Prevention is very manageable, cure is nearly impossible. The disease has to be stopped from taking hold, once you have it, control is difficult and limited in effectiveness.
3. Strain: Sensi star is the only resistant strain ive found so 80% of my grow is SS
4. Rotation of treatment is far more effective than single approaches.
My Approach beginning July 1.
Liquid Copper treatment: of plant and surrounding vegetation(organic growers tout its safety except for soil contamination. Rain is necessary to clean the substance from the plant)
2nd application mid july, including ground and surrounding veg
Late July: Actinovate application to plant and ground http://www.gardeniq.com/store/product/Actinovate,158,94.aspx
Early August: 2nd Actinovate application
Mid august: Serenade Max http://www.agraquest.com/agrochemical/products/fungicides-serenade-max.php
Early sept: Serenade Max
http://www.post-gazette.com/pg/10184/1070098-47.stm?cmpid=lifestyle.xml
Thats my plan. Fingers crossed
Ok, after weeks of reading gardening forums and technical labels, i have a treatment plan ready for the spring, based on what ive read.
1. "best practices" growing: Spray ground and surrounding dead vegetation. ulch to prevent "splash up". Reduce nitrogen/potassium fert levels.
2. Prevention is very manageable, cure is nearly impossible. The disease has to be stopped from taking hold, once you have it, control is difficult and limited in effectiveness.
3. Strain: Sensi star is the only resistant strain ive found so 80% of my grow is SS
4. Rotation of treatment is far more effective than single approaches.
My Approach beginning July 1.
Liquid Copper treatment: of plant and surrounding vegetation(organic growers tout its safety except for soil contamination. Rain is necessary to clean the substance from the plant)
2nd application mid july, including ground and surrounding veg
Late July: Actinovate application to plant and ground http://www.gardeniq.com/store/product/Actinovate,158,94.aspx
Early August: 2nd Actinovate application
Mid august: Serenade Max http://www.agraquest.com/agrochemical/products/fungicides-serenade-max.php
Early sept: Serenade Max
http://www.post-gazette.com/pg/10184/1070098-47.stm?cmpid=lifestyle.xml
Thats my plan. Fingers crossed
Guys hope you don’t mind if I post in here so we don’t have two threads going on. Thanks to everybody who joined in on leaf spot thread LC/Greencure: OD Disease Control Dangers! By moondawg. Thanks for coming back here to add to the sticky the threads still going strong because leaf blight is here to say for many of us.
I have been dealing with this for 2 seasons the 3rd is coming up and this will be my first year using the Liquid copper so I thought I would do some research. I stuck to the most common brand name I found.
Bonide Liquid Copper
The problem is I was able to pull up several subnames of this liquid Copper by Bonide and at least 2 MSDS sheets (attached below).
Here are the different names I was able to find
Bonide 314811 Copper 4E Fungicide
Bonide Liquid Copper 811 or Bonide811
I found these names intermixed also on websites. I have provided two links to the MSDS sheets I was able to find but they are very different or at least for layman’s eyes.
The active ingredient of the 811 product is 54% chlorothalonil
The active ingredient of the Bonide 314811 Copper 4E Fungicide is 10% copper octanoate(copper soap)
Can anyone shed some light on this the two different active ingredients??
http://www.planetnatural.com/planetnatural/images/liquid-copper-msds.pdf
http://www.cdms.net/ldat/mp2C3011.pdf
I have been dealing with this for 2 seasons the 3rd is coming up and this will be my first year using the Liquid copper so I thought I would do some research. I stuck to the most common brand name I found.
Bonide Liquid Copper
The problem is I was able to pull up several subnames of this liquid Copper by Bonide and at least 2 MSDS sheets (attached below).
Here are the different names I was able to find
Bonide 314811 Copper 4E Fungicide
Bonide Liquid Copper 811 or Bonide811
I found these names intermixed also on websites. I have provided two links to the MSDS sheets I was able to find but they are very different or at least for layman’s eyes.
The active ingredient of the 811 product is 54% chlorothalonil
The active ingredient of the Bonide 314811 Copper 4E Fungicide is 10% copper octanoate(copper soap)
Can anyone shed some light on this the two different active ingredients??
http://www.planetnatural.com/planetnatural/images/liquid-copper-msds.pdf
http://www.cdms.net/ldat/mp2C3011.pdf
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From everything ive read hamstring, here is the copper product that we should be using and is the product i used last year. YOu will find 2 differnt labels for it as well, but one label is for agricultural applications and is directed toward tank mixing and the dispersal of thousands of gallons and are very different than directions for the home gardener.
http://www.bonideproducts.com/lbonide/backlabels/l775.pdf
Its copper Octanate. I went and got my bottle and read the label. It was highly effective for me and if its used before the disease appears, it kills it completely
I will be using 1 tablespoon per gallon for prevention.
http://www.bonideproducts.com/lbonide/backlabels/l775.pdf
Its copper Octanate. I went and got my bottle and read the label. It was highly effective for me and if its used before the disease appears, it kills it completely
I will be using 1 tablespoon per gallon for prevention.
Here is another product that organic gardeners claim is effective..
http://www.stylet-oil.com/cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=68_66&products_id=185
http://www.stylet-oil.com/cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=68_66&products_id=185
