Looking for guerillas with leaf spot diease experience.

[hamstring]

From everything ive read hamstring, here is the copper product that we should be using and is the product i used last year. YOu will find 2 differnt labels for it as well, but one label is for agricultural applications and is directed toward tank mixing and the dispersal of thousands of gallons and are very different than directions for the home gardener.

http://www.bonideproducts.com/lbonide/backlabels/l775.pdf

Its copper Octanate. I went and got my bottle and read the label. It was highly effective for me and if its used before the disease appears, it kills it completely

I will be using 1 tablespoon per gallon for prevention.

Thanks DS

I ran across this sheet in my investigation but I didn’t see the active ingredients listed. I figured the copper octanoate was what we were talking about.
The problem is its so confusing because both of the Bonide products I listed come up as "liquid copper". Both had the EXACT same description on what diseases and plants they work on word for word.
To make things even worse they interchange these names on some of the results I get when I googled for “Liquid Copper”. I found it strange and thought others may run into the same quandary.

Thanks again I will purchase the Copper Octanate

 

[Hynppa]

nice work!

 

[D.S. Toker. MD]

This quasi companion thread by Moondawg should be part of this sticky.
http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=204100

hamstring and others,
Moondawgs post scared the shit out of me regaurding LC. Here is what appears to be some good data and description of Liquid Copper from the EPA, take a look! It makes a stong arguement that there is no danger from the Liquid Copper.


http://www.epa.gov/opprd001/factsheets/copper.pdf

 

[hamstring]

DS you glorious bastard

Very nice find, loved it especially the part about being about being able to mix it with pesticides. Not sure I will but it makes a strong case that mixing your sprayer with Sevin and LC could be done in early July. I have never seen much problems with pests in July usually corn bores during flowering but not July. Still it’s an option and that was a very very good read.
Thanks DS to me anyways that was an invaluable piece of info.

 

[stratmandu]

Any thoughts on whether a prescribed burn would help an area with regard to leaf spot/fungus?

 

[hamstring]

Stratmandu
I believe it work well if you could burn a large enough area. I thought of this too but security would not allow it for me. When you burn you do a couple of things get rid of dead veg which will hold less water therefore less spores. Second you will be killing the spores that wintered over. Like I mentioned the one big problem is security.

 

[stratmandu]

Its done. One of my spots, 2 months ago, I noticed forestry dudes had come in and cleared all the firebreaks. Went back last weekend and the entire area had been burned. Hundreds of acres. I am a little bit pumped about it - the deer & rabbits will have tons of new browse at green-up and leave my dang babies alone, maybe a reduction in fungus, and easier to not leave tracks...

 

[hamstring]

stratmandu
Sounds awesome please keep this sticky in mind when July-August rolls around to see if we were correct about the burn eliminating the leaf spot. Your input will be valuable and thanks for the participation.

 

[stratmandu]

I was thinking the same thing only a little more exact: I am going to replant the same hole where the big widow died, which was thoroughly burned because of all the dead kudzu and other vines there. I don't have any widow seeds (I'm over that strain) but will put something else in there. A KOS chunky cherry malawi, or maybe a CSG grandoggy purps. I will be sharing the info fer sure.

 

[D.S. Toker. MD]

You'll burn 1/2 the county down stratmandu. Be careful man, theyll have your picture on the front page as a pot growing arsonist!!!!

I think anything that helps kill it in the area where your plants are growing is beneficial. Burning, spraying with fungicide or anything else that kills it is good, but dont be to confident becuase the shit is blowing in the wind and ..... we're back to burning 1/2 the county down to truly eliminate it strat!

Ive sworn off of the widow too, but i ran out of sensi star so ive smoked it for the last couple of weeks and its not bad smoke at all. I was sort of aggrivated that i was out of "good smoke" and i sucked down a big fatty to find myself sitting on the couch with my head swirling around. Its been curing since Oct 1 and the shit is potent.

hamstrings growin it this year. Why are you swearing off strat?

My plan is set. I have Daconil for the ground and vegetation around my plant and i have liquid copper and serenade max for the plant. Ive been out inspecting the vegetation i will be spraying. In one site, i have 20 infected skeletons laying around. I piled them up in prep to spray.

What do you guys do with these infected skeletons? I cant really haul them off and they take a long time to deteriorate.

 

[stratmandu]

I didn't do anything of the sort. Forest Service burnt the land. That is Truth. End of story. They do it every few years. Its good for pines, I hear.

I am going with beans I made last year because they have one year of acclimatization, and are kickass strains heavier on the sativa side. Rez CSD x CSG SSSG and Haw Snow x CSG SSSG. Plus some Sensi Star std seeds on your rec, plus Res Grape Skunk, Arizona Ice Tea, KOS Chunky Cherry Malawi, plus Mr Nice SSH and Shit, plus Kryp Leb sativa x ECSD, some North London Church, and if they sprout, some 10-yr old (I guess) SSSC M1 (Nepali) seeds I have in a film can from way back. Oh yeah got 2 packs of Rez sour diesel and hopefully some SSSDH S1s. PLus I got.... way too many beans.

 

[D.S. Toker. MD]

MAY 12, 2011

Its a new season.

Im all planted, so the wait has begun. Im happy as hell i wont be stareing at my dying plants this year wondering what to do so i feel like im ahead of the game to this point, but there's a lot of season ahead of us.

Im armed with Greencure and Liquid Copper. After some reading, i found out that you shouldnt use a product like Serenade that is actually bacteria along with a product like Lcopper because the copper will kill the beneficial bacteria. So... Im using GC because both it and the LCopper create a surface condition thats intollerable for the fungus. Im assured by traditional garden club members that the GC works well as long as its used BEFORE the disease hits.

The onlly question i have left is when to start spraying. Im thinkin maybe June 15.

 

[TokerOftheSouth]

MAY 12, 2011

Its a new season.

Im all planted, so the wait has begun. Im happy as hell i wont be stareing at my dying plants this year wondering what to do so i feel like im ahead of the game to this point, but there's a lot of season ahead of us.

Im armed with Greencure and Liquid Copper. After some reading, i found out that you shouldnt use a product like Serenade that is actually bacteria along with a product like Lcopper because the copper will kill the beneficial bacteria. So... Im using GC because both it and the LCopper create a surface condition thats intollerable for the fungus. Im assured by traditional garden club members that the GC works well as long as its used BEFORE the disease hits.

The onlly question i have left is when to start spraying. Im thinkin maybe June 15.

D.S i ran into this problem last season with a few fem's..Do you mix the GC with the Lcopper? also how often do you use it during veg?


Also thanks for pretty much talking me into running a few Sensi Star's, 9 fem's up and going 2 weeks old(Fat little girl's they are)

 

[gunnaknow]

Myself and others have used a product from the UK called Plant Magic Essence and it's extremely effective! It completely got rid of my LSF. It contains bacillus subtilis (like Serenade), bacillus mageterium, sacchoromyces, trichoderma etc. The key to getting the best from a biofungicide is to brew it for several hours before you apply it. It activates the bacteria and fungi and drastically increases their numbers.

To brew it you need low chlorine water (bottled, filtered etc) a little molasses, a little kelp extract, and an airstone and pump. After a few hours, the froth ontop will stop collapsing and begin to build, which is a sure sign that the bacteria have been multiplying. It's best to continue for a few hours more though, to get the numbers up even higher.

Besides brewing it, the other thing that's important is that you use a pump up sprayer so that you can use very low pressure. You should also adjust the spray to it's coarsest setting. This stops the bacteria and fungi from being shredded. Ideally you'd use a natural wetting agent like yucca extract also.

http://www.uk420.com/boards/index.php?showtopic=155749
http://www.uk420.com/boards/index.php?showtopic=147113&st=0

 

[gunnaknow]

I think that the best defence, that would save you having to resort to sprays, is to use clones from a mother that was once infected with LSF but then recovered. Such a mother would have a systemic acquired resistance, which should be passed onto any cuttings. It can't be passed onto the next generation though so growing from seed is like starting from scratch.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Systemic_acquired_resistance

 

[D.S. Toker. MD]

D.SDo you mix the GC with the Lcopper? also how often do you use it during veg?


You wont grow anymore strains after growing SS Tos. It is also the only strain ive grown that shows good resistance to the blight. The only plants i had that didnt get the disease were sensi stars. Only when a star was surrounded by other plants that were infected would it get the disease but even then it didnt destroy the plant. That's in comparison to hashplant that was as dead as a doornail 2 weeks after it got the infection and nothing i sprayed on it helped.

No. I dont mix them. Ill be using the Liquid Copper from June 15 until Aug1. Mid june until mid august is the primary period of time when the disease is most prevalent and LC is very effective at preventing it. Form Aug1 forward it willl be Greencure. its less toxic than the LC and the disease is less viralent by mid Aug. Both products create an enviroment on the leaf surface that isnt conducive to the disease's development. But both products are ONLY effective as preventative applications. The disease can be prevented but once the plant is infected its impossible to kill or cure the plants. Prevention is the only treatment.

From June 15, ill treat after every rain or every 12 days. Same for the GC

 

[gunnaknow]

I'd put it like this D.S. Once a plant is infected, non systemic fungicides can only slow down the spread of infection, by destroying new spores that appear on the surface of the leaves. If the plant is treated soon after infection begins, then it may be able to handle smaller, localized sites of infection with a hypersensitive response (organised cell death) and then build up systemic acquired resistance.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hypersensitive_response

 

[D.S. Toker. MD]

youre right on gunnaknow. After infection, controlling the spread is the best you can do. Its also quite strain specific. Greenhouse white widow is very succeptable, but early apps of LC halt its spread and damage. When Biddy Early became infected, no amount of LC i sprayed on them stopped the disease. They died no matter what i did while the Ww went on to finish.

 

[StrapAssassin42]

great thread... very informative
I'm 99% sure im having this issue indoors. I think i inherited it from a buddy who keeps his room very unclean. (got some clones from him)
My widows 5 weeks into flowering are almost completely destroyed while my big bud remain completely untouched.
Now that i am infected inside (and cant move my grow) am i doomed to deal with this forever? especially being gc and L copper are only preventatives?
Should i spray everything with L coppper then scrub the rooms down with a bleach solution?
I know this a rare situation indoors...thought I had a nute deficiency and have done everything to remedy that situation with 0 results.
Any input would b greatly appreciated.

 

[gunnaknow]

No, you're not necessarily doomed to deal with this forever. You can keep mothers from plants that have proven to be resistant. You may also be able to keep mothers from plants that recovered from a previous infection, without the use of systemic fungicides.

If your big bud remain uninfected until harvest, then reveg the best one and keep it as a mother. If you regularly spray the widows with a non systemic fungicide like serenade or greencure to stop further infection, any survivors come harvest may have built up systemic acquired resistance (SAR) and could make good mothers. To be sure that they had built up a resistance, you could then reveg without spraying them to see if they became reinfected or not.

Yes, it's a good idea to sterilize all of the surfaces, pots etc with bleach but perhaps wait until you've harvested the infected plants as there's likely to be spores in the soil aswel.