It was charred and then charged with ACT then mixed into soil and vermicompost.
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- Thread starter Microbeman
- Start date
It was charred and then charged with ACT then mixed into soil and vermicompost.
40degsouth
Well-known member
Hey everyone, l hope you’re all well.
Microbe Man, I’ve been wondering what brews you do with the dandelion roots and what benefits they bring to the soil and plants??
As for me l’ve chopped and top dressed all the thistles and weeds around the garden beds that have been doing a wonderful job of sequestering nutrients and minerals from any sort of run off and opening up the heavy clay soil with their tap roots. I’m covering them with composted mushroom, cow and chicken manure, from a feedlot and chicken production farm along with seed meals, a byproduct from oil production.
I’ve left the thistles and grasses, that have colonised the beds, until just before seed set, so the phosphorus contained within them will become available around the end of January, just in time for transition. This is a bit of a double edged sword because the local rust has colonised the grasses and is getting worse.
All this leads to the perfect horizon for feeder roots and what l call “wormagedon”, which occurs by the end of February and l always feel bad testing for moisture,in the beds, as there’s nowhere you can scratch without upsetting a worm’s day and if you go out of a rainy night the beds are literally crawling.
I don’t normally water before Christmas, for root development but l have been doing quite high nitrogen feedings once a week with my fish heads in a barrel that l started last March and doesn’t smell at all now and I just keep topping it up with plain water. I’m doing this to push plants through a bit of pistil development that’s probably close to reveg except they’re all still growing five fingered leaves.
I’ve done a bit of experimenting with my Black Dog, elite clone, regarding planting times, the results of which have been very interesting and unexpected ( l think I’ll post this info in the appropriate thread in the “Outdoors” section)
I’m growing this exclusively because l need a year off from fighting this soul destroying leaf spot disease and this is the only cut I’ve got that is basically immune to it.
I’m thinking about posting up some photos but I’m still a bit scared.
Cheers,
40.
Microbe Man, I’ve been wondering what brews you do with the dandelion roots and what benefits they bring to the soil and plants??
As for me l’ve chopped and top dressed all the thistles and weeds around the garden beds that have been doing a wonderful job of sequestering nutrients and minerals from any sort of run off and opening up the heavy clay soil with their tap roots. I’m covering them with composted mushroom, cow and chicken manure, from a feedlot and chicken production farm along with seed meals, a byproduct from oil production.
I’ve left the thistles and grasses, that have colonised the beds, until just before seed set, so the phosphorus contained within them will become available around the end of January, just in time for transition. This is a bit of a double edged sword because the local rust has colonised the grasses and is getting worse.
All this leads to the perfect horizon for feeder roots and what l call “wormagedon”, which occurs by the end of February and l always feel bad testing for moisture,in the beds, as there’s nowhere you can scratch without upsetting a worm’s day and if you go out of a rainy night the beds are literally crawling.
I don’t normally water before Christmas, for root development but l have been doing quite high nitrogen feedings once a week with my fish heads in a barrel that l started last March and doesn’t smell at all now and I just keep topping it up with plain water. I’m doing this to push plants through a bit of pistil development that’s probably close to reveg except they’re all still growing five fingered leaves.
I’ve done a bit of experimenting with my Black Dog, elite clone, regarding planting times, the results of which have been very interesting and unexpected ( l think I’ll post this info in the appropriate thread in the “Outdoors” section)
I’m growing this exclusively because l need a year off from fighting this soul destroying leaf spot disease and this is the only cut I’ve got that is basically immune to it.
I’m thinking about posting up some photos but I’m still a bit scared.
Cheers,
40.
the dandelion root is for me - cancer prophylactic
40degsouth
Well-known member
Thanks Microbe Man, it’s very much appreciated.
As a survivor myself, I’d love you to share this recipe. After all........discombilate and conquer ?
As a survivor myself, I’d love you to share this recipe. After all........discombilate and conquer ?
T
Teddybrae
Just wondering if anyone has a solution for an excess of Nitrogen in my soil? I applied too much blood and bone. Now my seedlings are dark green and while they are growing they do not have the golden glow!
I see from Mulders Chart that excess N militates against the uptake of K and Cu.
What antidotes might you all recommend?
Thanks ...
I see from Mulders Chart that excess N militates against the uptake of K and Cu.
What antidotes might you all recommend?
Thanks ...
TychoMonolyth
Boreal Curing
Nitrogen does not fixate to the soil. Meaning the Nitrogen molecules are too big and are not held in place. Rain washes it away in fields and compost piles. So flush the hell out of it.
As long as the leaf tips are not burned, or drying out, leave it alone.
As long as the leaf tips are not burned, or drying out, leave it alone.
paradoxlost
Member
Uh, that's kinda right lol. Nitrogen is actually one of hte smaller elements in the soil and that has nothing to do with why it washes away and doesn't stay in place. Also nitrogen is fixed in the soil lol. that statement was like one true statement and like 5 untrue statements lol
St. Phatty
Active member
doesn't Nitrogen normally hang out with Oxygen in the form of Nitrates ?
separate subject - if you read old Army manuals, they tell you how to make Potassium Nitrate using cow manure and wood ash.
Teddy; Time is all that I can recommend. Topdress with vermicompost or even try a vermicompost slurry.
I NEVER use blood or any heavy N additives. N is sequestered in properly made vermicompost and thermophilic compost. One must decide; Am I growing naturally OR am I dumping a bunch of magic shit on my plants? The 2 do not really mix.
I NEVER use blood or any heavy N additives. N is sequestered in properly made vermicompost and thermophilic compost. One must decide; Am I growing naturally OR am I dumping a bunch of magic shit on my plants? The 2 do not really mix.
'Boogieman'
Well-known member
Well if a wolf makes a kill naturally blood would enrich the soil with lots of nitrogen. I always looked at it that way with blood meal.
This is a little silly from the perspective of creating a soil mix. Read up about soil level hierarchy.
T
Teddybrae
MM;Tycho ... Watering like crazy has helped. I guess I 'm a 'dumping magic shit' kinda Guy. Sorry MM but I just do not get organic growing. A kind of lateral thinking I am not good at. But thanks for the tip about vermicompost.
I have some soil without blood and bone that I will dig in to 'dilute' the overfed soil. That ought to get my plants started ...
Thanks all!
I have some soil without blood and bone that I will dig in to 'dilute' the overfed soil. That ought to get my plants started ...
Thanks all!
40degsouth
Well-known member
Hi everyone,
I’ve been enjoying the last few posts and have been wondering if Microbeman can explain why you have that stance on blood meal. I’ve always believed that it’s a good imput for organic soils and I’m looking forward to hearing a different opinion on it; only if you’ve got time of course.
Cheers,
40.
I’ve been enjoying the last few posts and have been wondering if Microbeman can explain why you have that stance on blood meal. I’ve always believed that it’s a good imput for organic soils and I’m looking forward to hearing a different opinion on it; only if you’ve got time of course.
Cheers,
40.
Well, if you are not into natural growing, this is probably not the thread for you. There are many inputs like bloodmeal which are considered organic but which as you have learned 'force' nutrients into the soil solution. Other things which I've noted to do this are like various rock minerals used at too great a rate in a mix.
These experiences and the knowledge of how the microbial living soil hierarchy functions have made me more trusting of truly sequestered nutrients. I have outlined in other documents to the best of my ability how this works.
You may find these in stickies here or on my old webpage.
'Boogieman'
Well-known member
How does it work with growing huge outdoor plants though? I always run into nitrogen deficiency with large plants if I don't supplement with high nitrogen organics. I rarely use blood meal anymore though, it brings too many critters. I usually use decent amounts of chicken manure, alfalfa, and neem seed meal.
I also topdress with N like alfalfa. Topdressing being operative rather than mixing
read living soil - microbial hierarchy I just can't repeat everything for years
40degsouth
Well-known member
40degsouth
Well-known member
Well, please bear with me, these are the first photos I’ve posted and am still very much learning.
Thanks Microbeman for that information it’s very much appreciated and although l know how frustrating it is to reiterate and reinforce information over and over, l don’t want you to think your work is unappreciated and no one is listening nor, the effort and time of your responses, goes unappreciated.
So, if l understand correctly, blood meal and other high nitrogen imputs, pushes microbial life out of balance in the soil, which has a domino effect throughout the full horizon.
So, my recent trip to the health food shop may not have been the best idea, unless l can get the exact ratio of imputs correct for my volume of soil.
Does anyone else have any experience with these types of flours as amendments and more specifically, how to identify the right amounts for a soil without saturating it and throwing it out of balance.
I’m about to start feedings so they may be better suited to ACT’s??
Cheers,
40.
Thanks Microbeman for that information it’s very much appreciated and although l know how frustrating it is to reiterate and reinforce information over and over, l don’t want you to think your work is unappreciated and no one is listening nor, the effort and time of your responses, goes unappreciated.
So, if l understand correctly, blood meal and other high nitrogen imputs, pushes microbial life out of balance in the soil, which has a domino effect throughout the full horizon.
So, my recent trip to the health food shop may not have been the best idea, unless l can get the exact ratio of imputs correct for my volume of soil.
Does anyone else have any experience with these types of flours as amendments and more specifically, how to identify the right amounts for a soil without saturating it and throwing it out of balance.
I’m about to start feedings so they may be better suited to ACT’s??
Cheers,
40.
Last edited:
TychoMonolyth
Boreal Curing
Uh... I think you might want to look that up again. Specifically, the two forms of N and how plants get at it. Small N and Large N.
But hey... I just get my info from 4 generations of corn/soy farmers in my family.
Going to use a compost pile from last summer? Better add some N. Actually, better add some P & K too because compost is a *very slow release fertilizer.
'Boogieman'
Well-known member
Can you post a link I'm finding conflicting information. I have read teaming with microbes and teaming with nutrients. My issue is once my outdoors plants get pretty big I run into deficiencies unless I top dress large amount of organic fertilizer. Even in bloom my plants seem very nitrogen hungry.
