H
Heliopolis
Thank you, CC. I was just reading about how vigorously it can grow back from being cut down. You know, its utilitarian benefits aside, it's a rather attractive plant to me.
No-till ROLS 3 gallon 'The One x BMR Bx1' 36 days 12/12.......oh yeah...and no ph adjustments to water or teas.
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I just wrote something addressing this. Can you accept or send PMs?
or email me through my site
Weyenot
All of the plants that you mentioned as well as Comfrey & Stinging Nettles started out as medicinal plants a few thousands years back and they are still grown and harvested as medicine around the world today.
Borage & Comfrey are very close in their nutrient and compound profiles so they are interchangeable. The difference is that Borage will only give you about 15% of the biomass of Comfrey - if that. When you factor in the ability to take 3 - 4 cuttings a year with Comfrey the differences in biomass are even more striking.
Yarrow, Stinging Nettles & Comfrey are part of Steiner's Biodynamic tenets and are used specifically to activate compost piles like you'll be building. I think that this is far better than adding them to your worm bins because they can ramp up the heat in the bedding up in a day or two to temperatures high enough to kill some of your worms. Adding any raw Nitrogen source can bring problems that you don't need. Yarrow branches is the traditional sticks used in I Ching. Yarrow is almost revered in some cultures.
Worms do really well with mammalian manure, composted chicken manure and of course compost. Running your finished compost through the worm bins will only enhance the benefits by leaps and bounds. Makes for cheap worm bin food as well.
German Chamomile - you might want to read up on this one for it's value to you and your family. It isn't mission critical in a compost recipe and the health benefits to you would far exceed whatever the flowers might contribute to compost or even vermicompost. Price some organic Chamomile flowers for sh*ts & grins.
Same thing with Yarrow - a very ancient medicinal plant and there is a ton of information out there but again you'll do pretty well by just reading the page on Yarrow at Horizon Herbs. They have good information on all of the plants, seeds and roots that they offer. Plus they're one of a handful of seed companies that actually produce their own seeds. [cite]
If you have chickens, rabbits or livestock then you can feed them Borage, Comfrey and Stinging Nettles. Comfrey became an important fodder in England in the mid-1700s and remains so today. That was the reason the Bocking series were developed - a sterile strain so that production could be limited to specific areas.
If you have a vegetable garden then covering the soil with fresh-cut Comfrey leaves and covering that with your compost and let that sit for a couple of weeks is another way to work with the leaves. My 4 Comfrey plants produced over 3.5 cubic yards this past season which is a lot of friggin' Comfrey. You've probably read that kelp meal is an excellent Potassium (K) source which it is - no question about that. Comfrey has 2.8x that level. In England you can buy Comfrey-Kelp pellets for farms and gardens - too bad it's not available in the states.
You can also make Comfrey Syrup which is a way to have it available during the winter months. I'll dig up this one video in particular from either Australia or England that shows how it's done.
Ain't exactly rocket science......
HTH
CC
Right! It's the fresh material that can be a real problem. Especially Comfrey, Alfalfa and Borage. What makes these a great compost activator will cause the same deal in your worm bin.
With Comfrey you can lay the leaves flat on the surface and if you don't cover it with your food stock (compost, manure, et al) then it will breakdown in 2 or 3 days to the point where it won't be a problem.
Comfrey is unique on how quickly it decomposes - using the fresh leaves as a green mulch was the primary method discussed in the 'big book' on Comfrey written by the horticulturist in England who developed the very same cultivar that we plant over 60 years ago in Essex on Bocking Road. The root pieces we order are direct cuttings from his work.
So much for genetic drift I guess......
Very good! Watch out for the raw greens.
Bocking 14! Will be planting some of that in a raised bin later this year.
rrog
You don't need to - this plant will grow anywhere. The roots go down deeper than fruit trees - over 15' into the sub-soil. That's where the plant accumulates elements that end up in the root zone and important to us in the leaves.
'Nutrient Accumulators' - kelp, alfalfa, comfrey, stinging nettles, borage, etc. - about in that order aside from the differences in compounds each plant creates.
Weyenot
I also found an interesting article on lignins and the effect they have on material decomposition. Interesting stuff! http://compost.css.cornell.edu/calc/lignin.html
So i have read 300 pages and am understanding more every page. I am going to put together a mix of Pro-Mix BX, HIGH quality EWC, HIGH quality compost, some soil from under a pile of leaves that have been in my backyard for 3 years, and lava rock or whatever i find for the aeration. I will also add glacial rock dust to this. I am not going to switch fully to no bottled nutrients as i recently purchased (before finding this site) Botanicare PBPG and PBPB and want to use them up. I also have Earth Juice micronutrients and some bone meal and a bunch of free samples of sea green (in process of reading that thread also, trying to find a replacement) that i have been using. What amendments can i add to my soil and still use the products i am trying to finish off without worrying about burning or locking out anything? I have a good regimen i use with what i have now that my strains love but was worried if i use the soil mix on the first page plus the nutrients i have, that i will burn the plants or lock something out. Any advice?