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Living organic soil from start through recycling

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ClackamasCootz

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Hahaha put em through hell huh incredibowl, what do you do just toss them outside and see which ones survive? I want to do some mango hazes and was wondering what would be the necessary amendments to give the plant everything it needs to show its specific traits, trace elements, macro, micro nutrients etc. all that. Kelp meal, neem meal, crab meal, alfalfa, compost and ewc are definitely on the list not sure if these altogether will be okay for picky sativas that get that curl thing goin on..

Not sure if this makes any sense..?
All of a plant's required 83 elements are covered. You'll need water of course but that's a compound, i.e. H2O.

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ClackamasCootz

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Sometimes I wonder about %ages marked on labels
In the realm of bottled mineral compounds it's a mess which is why you find very few liquid products at farms stores. Bags of langbeinite go out the door but no one is offering liquid K-MAG or Epsom Salts, etc.

The retail products are pretty much a hope, wish and a promise and that's from reputable companies

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Gascanastan

Gone but NOT forgotten...
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Yeah thanks it just looks kinda weird to me, hey gas when you do a big pheno hunt or male/female search do you give em all the luxurious foliars and topdressing ,extras or just the necessary stuff I was wondering what should be the appropriate way to determine phenos from others without getting mixed up from effects of teas and stuff..?

I don't do foliars anymore....dunno why. Just don't have to because everything is bitchin'...if the soil is right and healthy most types perform the same out of the seed. I tend to avoid runts,but do give them a chance...any types that show burning at all,that kind of thing...any defects get tossed.
One of the aspects of proper breeding is to test progeny of males for one thing...which takes a long freeking time w/small #'s but is absolutely possible.

I'm of the (I think pretty small) school of thought that says treat seedlings harshly - I don't like finicky bitches no matter how good they look or nice they smell

I give them a decent chance,but don't coddle the weak ones...that's not to say that great things can't be found in runts.
The Blue Moon used by 'Tommy' in the BMR was a runt....this done by he and Subcool before they sent the beans to BOG....who crossed it to his Bubblegum. That's why Tommy named it Blue Moon,because it was,"once in a blue moon" that the runt grew up to be a monster mommy.
 
So with only ewc, alfalfa, and kelp you could pull off a season and get out all the traits in specific plants to come out to select the more favorable phenos? If that's true that is amazing!

Which brings me to my next question, what bagged ewc would you guys recommend on the west coast besides agrowinn brand?

School must have been fun for all you guys lol..
 

Gascanastan

Gone but NOT forgotten...
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So with only ewc, alfalfa, and kelp you could pull off a season and get out all the traits in specific plants to come out to select the more favorable phenos? If that's true that is amazing!

Which brings me to my next question, what bagged ewc would you guys recommend on the west coast besides agrowinn brand?

School must have been fun for all you guys lol..

I'm actually quite confident you could start and finish a cannabis cycle in just peat,pumice and vermicompost alone.

I use the Megaworm brand from Vital Earth I believe... if I have to.
 
Really? I've heard of people making seed bombs with similar amendments but would think they have to topdress later on or water in a tea or something..I'll look for that brand next time I'm at the nursery. Has anyone heard reviews or used sanctuary soil buckaroo worm castings? They claim to have at least 20% castings in these..
 
H

Heliopolis

Is it safe to say that this organic soil can be used as the basis for a general purpose soil suitable for most garden and flower needs? Hypothetically, assuming you have the proper aeration, drainage, water supply, and environmental factors, the soil is going to provide everything most plants need to flourish, correct?
 

Seandawg

Member
Is it safe to say that this organic soil can be used as the basis for a general purpose soil suitable for most garden and flower needs? Hypothetically, assuming you have the proper aeration, drainage, water supply, and environmental factors, the soil is going to provide everything most plants need to flourish, correct?

Correct sir!
 

ClackamasCootz

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Which brings me to my next question, what bagged ewc would you guys recommend on the west coast besides agrowinn brand?

Here are some humus products out of California that you might consider:

Black Diamond Vermicompost - San Luis Obispo County Worm Farm located near the vineyard district east of Paso Robles

Malibu Biodynamic Compost - sold all over California. Premium compost, IMHO

If you're in Southern California then the Agrowin may be your best option since their products are sold at a number of retail stores.

The closer you are to the organic production districts the more options you will have - North San Diego County (Alpine, Escondido, Ramona, etc.), Oxnard County, Salinas District, Fresno District down to the Bakersfield District.

Orange County is pretty easy - check with Orange County Farm Supply in Tustin. They've been there before the first settlers showed up.

HTH

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soursmoker

East Coast, All Day!
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Good job, and welcome!

I am not sure, but I think the coast of Maine lobster compost should have plenty of CaCO3 to buffer the whole mix. EWC contains it as well, so it should be work. Letting it sit for a bit wouldn't hurt.

If your concerned though, wood ash and/or eggshells could also be added to the peat itself as a freecycled/upcycled liming agent. I usually sprinkle a little of each on top with each recycle, for the buffering aspect and the micro-nutrients.

In a living soil, the microbes mainly take care of it anyway so don't worry too much. I would throw some native topsoil and leaf litter in the mix for the BIM, that is just me. Consider some heavy with clay...

thank you, i guess i should have been a little more specific with my question. should i plant my seeds in the base mix(peat,perlite, compost) and THEN throw in my nutrient pack from KIS which contains (KIS Microbe Catalyst, Gaia Green Canadian Glacial Rock Dust, Calphos Soft Rock Phosphate, Pacific Pearl Oyster Shell Powder, Sulfate of Potash (Sul Po Mag, K Mag), Alfalfa Meal, Fish Bone Meal, Crustacean Meal, Kelp Meal, Ahimsa Organics Neem Cake/Karanja Cake, Tera Vita SP-85 Humic Acid, Fish Meal, Feather Meal, Steamed Bone Meal, Natural Calcite, Mycorrhizae*, and Benefical Microbes). then the mix will be composting while the little seedlings are starting off. then after 2 to 3 weeks i can transplant to the now ready mix?

OR should i ammend my soil with the nutrient pack... let it compost for 2-4 weeks and then plant my seeds in the ammended soil?

Sorry if this is repetitive. Thanks for the help,
 
I'm not in California but not to far away from Bakersfield but it would be somewhat of a road trip and probably not worth it after all the gas expenses.

Thankfully in my area I can get the Malibu biodynamic compost, before i get this I just need to pick up other ammendments and find a feed store with the big 50 lb bags but it seems nobody around here carries the kelp and stuff hopefully there's a hidden gem around somewhere..

I called a lot of places and agrowinn definitely is not sold here, I'll have to see about the black diamond ewc also.
 

Gascanastan

Gone but NOT forgotten...
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Disregard

It's Monday and I don't want to move....ugh..coffee.

Cooler temp today...which means checking dark cycle heater thermostat setting and room temps a few times throughout the dark cycle for the first few days of flower.

Pots that aren't warm enough will result in slowed biological processes....slower transpiration,slower everything really.
 
Hi again all, been reading what I can of this thread, and popped up for a few questions.

1. There seems to be an aversion to coco coir instead of peat, what is the reason for that? Why would it be a no-no to just sub coir for the peat in the mix on the first post?

2. How exactly is HIGH quality compost made?

3. How exactly is HIGH quality EWC made?

I have access to fresh cow manure from pasture raised cows, what if I built a worm bin and just fed that manure through the wormies, would that be high quality EWC?
 
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