Sloppy math;
32%~3.7% = 8.6 times more concentrated
52.8%~7.8% = 6.77 times more concentrated
Average of greater concentration; 8.6+6.77~2=7.685
0.7g/gal~7.685=0.09g/gal = Protekt (approx)
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Living organic soil from start through recycling
- Thread starter Gascanastan
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Sloppy math;
32%~3.7% = 8.6 times more concentrated
52.8%~7.8% = 6.77 times more concentrated
Average of greater concentration; 8.6+6.77~2=7.685
0.7g/gal~7.685=0.09g/gal = Protekt (approx)
I just ordered 4 lbs. and with S&H it broke down like this:
4 lbs. - 29.00
S&H - 17.00 (laughable)
Total - 46.00
A gallon of Pro-TeKt is around 33.00 at hydro heaven or something close.
CC
4 lbs. - 29.00
S&H - 17.00 (laughable)
Total - 46.00
A gallon of Pro-TeKt is around 33.00 at hydro heaven or something close.
CC
MM
Here's the link to the original application filed by PQ Corporation and the subsequent ruling by USDA, et al.
"Takes a while to load" so be patient. We are talking about USDA here.
CC
It's about availability. It is not water soluble otherwise there would be no 'earth crust' which is somewhere about 78% Silicon.
It would be the same thing as taking a bunch of empty beer bottles, smashing them down - you would, in fact, have Silicon but zero would be available to the roots.
HTH
CC
It would be the same thing as taking a bunch of empty beer bottles, smashing them down - you would, in fact, have Silicon but zero would be available to the roots.
HTH
CC
Was it approved? Didn't see.
Must be why my plants did so well with driller's mud in the soil
MM
I apologize for selecting the wrong link so I'll find the one with the ruling.
Here's the gist of their finding:
CAS # 1312-76-1: The silica used in the manufacture of potassium silicate must be sourced from naturally occuring sand. May be used if the requirements of 205.206(e) are met
The 'naturally occuring sand' was at the center of the application to get THEIR product, Agsil & Kalsil, approved under the catch-all 205.206(e)
The issue never was about Potassium Sillicate at all. This is a naturally occuring mineral compound to use USDA's wording.
CC
M
MrSterling
Before I go dumping this question in the infirmary, I could use yalls help. I stopped in to visit an old friend a few hills over who turned out to be very distraught. Most of her guerrilla crop was brought down by mold before she could even harvest; weather was apparently more humid and wet than around my parts. She cut everything down in the hopes of saving something, regardless of ripeness. Not a pretty sight. She asked if I thought there was anything that could be done to save it, but moldy bud is over my head. Fwiw what I saw was a white weblike material on the exterior and interior of the buds. I cracked the buds open to find it more prevalent inside.
My natural reaction is to say "toss it all!" as the moldy buds have all been sitting together in a bin with the non-moldy stuff. I told her to leave the lid off in hopes that it won't spread, but beyond that I don't know what to say.
I'm hoping one of you with more experience can tell me if non-moldy buds in a container with moldy buds safe to keep, and how what about adjacent buds on a stem where one bud has it and another doesn't. I'm cautious - thinking on bread mold spreading even when unseen.
I hope those of you in that storm path last week turned out safely.
My natural reaction is to say "toss it all!" as the moldy buds have all been sitting together in a bin with the non-moldy stuff. I told her to leave the lid off in hopes that it won't spread, but beyond that I don't know what to say.
I'm hoping one of you with more experience can tell me if non-moldy buds in a container with moldy buds safe to keep, and how what about adjacent buds on a stem where one bud has it and another doesn't. I'm cautious - thinking on bread mold spreading even when unseen.
I hope those of you in that storm path last week turned out safely.
One time I did an experiment with a lactobacillus culture 'dip'....not sure if you have a gallon of culture sitting around or not..I usually do for these very reasons.
I had a plant absolutely flushed with PM...I took 1 gallon of culture to a 5 gallon bucket of water and dipped the entire buds for at least 5 minutes. Then took them out and rinsed them in another bucket of clean water. Shook the water out and line dried them. The PM was gone but the buds looked kinda funny from being immersed and rinsed. Glands still intact,dried normally,smoked normally...this was on an outdoor plant.
Never did it again.
The thought being the lacto either out competes or eats the PM...
IncredibowlBoss
Member
Standard commercial practice would be to dip em in hydrogen peroxide and hang em dry. Plan B would be to blast em into BHO. I'm with you - compost em or feed em to the worms, but if your friend needs to get em to market, that's the way to go.
GS
The LAB is acidic so that explains why it could kill PM.
That's the science behind Potassium bicarbonate (Green Cure, Milstop, FirstStep, Kaligreen, Armicarb 100, Remedy, et al) - it raises the PH on the leaf surface. Same with Sodium bicarbonate.
That is not a suggestion or recommendation at all...
CC
The LAB is acidic so that explains why it could kill PM.
That's the science behind Potassium bicarbonate (Green Cure, Milstop, FirstStep, Kaligreen, Armicarb 100, Remedy, et al) - it raises the PH on the leaf surface. Same with Sodium bicarbonate.
That is not a suggestion or recommendation at all...
CC
..the ah ha moment..
..no thoughts concerning it actually consuming PM?... What about you MM..any chance this could be observed under a scope?
M
MrSterling
Guys thanks for the advice. I'm gonna advice her to separate the good from the bad for now and see if any of the mold shows up on the good stuff. I'm gonna advise her to compost the rest. The really bad stuff was GONE beyond saving, like something from a nightmare.
To be candid I don't know how the fuck she managed to have so many different varieties go to mold in the worst drought year we've seen in half a century. I suspect something else went wrong in her soil+light+weather+genetics equation to cause it.
To be candid I don't know how the fuck she managed to have so many different varieties go to mold in the worst drought year we've seen in half a century. I suspect something else went wrong in her soil+light+weather+genetics equation to cause it.
At the link I posted is a slew of cites, references and studies from Cornell University, Clemson University and several other sources.
You know the drill with PM - prevention is way easier than trying to get rid of it. Bad stuff making it the most studied pathogen around the world in agriculture and horticulture. That's not a typo either.
CC
IncredibowlBoss
Member
Feeling grateful for my dry Colorado climate right about now!
Bud,
I remember seeing a thread about this not too long ago. Here it is https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=243168&highlight=frass
Seems like the general consensus is that it isn't worth the money. If you have your own bugs that you can collect from, I would follow CC's advice and compost it first. After all, it is poop.
I remember seeing a thread about this not too long ago. Here it is https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=243168&highlight=frass
Seems like the general consensus is that it isn't worth the money. If you have your own bugs that you can collect from, I would follow CC's advice and compost it first. After all, it is poop.
C
CT Guy
I feel like I've tried just about everything combating PM over the past couple of years, I think it's part of living in the Pacific NW. Here's what I've found:
1. Genetics is the biggest factor. If you can get a cultivar/strain that is resistant, hold onto it like gold.
2. Prevention is key, like Coot mentioned. If there's a chance of mold, have a strict application schedule to prevent it getting a foothold and have good practices for maintaining a clean growing space.
3. I've tried potassium bicarbonate, raw milk, actinovate, neem oil, and much more. I've settled on a routine of actinovate as a preventative, and Ahimsa Neem oil with silica and aloe as a treatment.
4. In regards to your friend's situation, I agree on composting it. I did however have some material that had light PM (which I'm guessing all of her buds probably have given the condition of the bad ones that you describe). I didn't feel comfortable drying it, so I saturated it with neem immediately before harvest and was unable to see the PM at 40X magnification on the leaf surface the next day. I did try smoking it and didn't notice a big difference in flavor, though it was a bit more brittle (I believe from the neem residue), however neem oil biodegrades naturally in sunlight, so by the time the weed was dried and cured I was unconcerned about residue. I noticed no difference in regards to the medicinal effects of the bud.
I also had some trimmings with the same issue. I used a dry ice extraction with a micron sized bubble bag that was smaller than the PM spores. This worked very well, considering I didn't want to waste the lbs. of trimmings that I had accumulated. Ended up with some excellent kief that I have seen no ill effects from. In my research I was unable to find any negative effects to consuming PM spores, there are many accounts of people smoking material with PM (which I would NEVER recommend or do), and we eat veggies (curcubits are highly susceptible) all the time with PM on the leaf which leads me to believe there must be some spores that fall onto the gourds, though most people was their veggies. I'm not sure if the PM spores just die in the human gut, or the concentrations are too low to have any noticeable affect. I'm not advocating for smoking or using the material you have, I'm just sharing my experiences.
Lastly, keep in mind that mold and PM can be two different things. PM is a reference to specific species of fungi, which molds can encompass much more:
http://www.diffen.com/difference/Mildew_vs_Mold
http://www.greencure.net/powdery_mildew.asp
Good luck!
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