Thanks , I was thinking of PWM style pc fans , will need to double check fittings
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- Thread starter Tropical Sun
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Looks at these!!
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smirnoff420
Well-known member
There are readymade adaptor cables from barrel connector to fan connector.
Personally, I just use these, universal adapter
Ca++
Well-known member
Them DC 2.1mm jack to 4pin fan connectors, are few and far between. I found one, but no stock
I tend to get the scissors out. I think with the daisy-chain I outlined, you get two 15cm fan leads, branching out from the main run, every 55cm. That is using the tripple splitters. There are quads available. In any case, you need an extra plug somewhere, just to hack it off, to get some bare wires. You could also do that to your DC power supply, and just twist the wires. However, it's nice to keep things modular. For reasons like re-configuring, or packing away, or simply a bit broke. For this reason, I would hack off the unused fan plug, and screw on one of these
You get a 5 pack of males and females, for a couple of quid.
For a PSU, I like the brick style ones, rather than a wall wart.
I tape over the lights, which is a waste. However, I like being able to access the thing easily. My tent has one for floor fans, and one for roof. Each hangs in my tent, a bit higher than a light switch would be. Just inside the door. I notice this one actually supplies that plug with the green terminal block. As do others. It's about £10 delivered from ali in 5 days.
The PWM fans will slow with reduced voltage. They are all different, but usually spin up as you reach about 5 volts. It's actually quieter to slow them with reduced voltage, than PWM. So all you are interested in, from a wiring point of view, is 2 wires. IIRC black is on the outside, with red beside it. Always check though. The green plug is actually labeled +/- and + is the middle pin if you needed to know.
It's just a couple of wires, to swap one plug from 4pin to 2.1mm (if a convertor isn't posted somewhere) edit: amusingly, even my link to one just vanished, and it was Amazon. Who love click bait.
I tend to get the scissors out. I think with the daisy-chain I outlined, you get two 15cm fan leads, branching out from the main run, every 55cm. That is using the tripple splitters. There are quads available. In any case, you need an extra plug somewhere, just to hack it off, to get some bare wires. You could also do that to your DC power supply, and just twist the wires. However, it's nice to keep things modular. For reasons like re-configuring, or packing away, or simply a bit broke. For this reason, I would hack off the unused fan plug, and screw on one of these
You get a 5 pack of males and females, for a couple of quid.
For a PSU, I like the brick style ones, rather than a wall wart.
I tape over the lights, which is a waste. However, I like being able to access the thing easily. My tent has one for floor fans, and one for roof. Each hangs in my tent, a bit higher than a light switch would be. Just inside the door. I notice this one actually supplies that plug with the green terminal block. As do others. It's about £10 delivered from ali in 5 days.
The PWM fans will slow with reduced voltage. They are all different, but usually spin up as you reach about 5 volts. It's actually quieter to slow them with reduced voltage, than PWM. So all you are interested in, from a wiring point of view, is 2 wires. IIRC black is on the outside, with red beside it. Always check though. The green plug is actually labeled +/- and + is the middle pin if you needed to know.
It's just a couple of wires, to swap one plug from 4pin to 2.1mm (if a convertor isn't posted somewhere) edit: amusingly, even my link to one just vanished, and it was Amazon. Who love click bait.
acespicoli
Well-known member
We see here that the white stuff wrapped around our filters, is general mould standard. However filter depth is a big issue. With just a 50% capture rate, you want a couple of tries, or a thick bed. Once we know that air is clean, we can think about hepa filters. We don't want to waste the costly hepa, catching spores that cheap stuff can be used for.
There is only so much you can do. I can say your covid jab or inhaler could of been develped at a site where I changed the filters. The only use of kit beyond air filters, was actually on the exhaust. UV, to deal with hazardous vapour in cabinets. Yes, I'm trained to put on a suit, to walk along like I have shit myself, to a room where I changed into another suit, to continue on my way. It was very clean.
The key here, is not to rely on any one method. Clean your room. Clean the air going in. Keep hitting the plants with things to get a protection response from them. Grow them with silicone to toughen the cells against attack, and remove all dead stuff before it becomes a breeding site. Open up the plants structure, and get air moving though them. Choose fast strains, and resistant one's. Don't dwell on the idea of if they need a bit longer. If you are not sure, then they are already done. Another week is just increasing the moulds chances.
Cleanroom - Wikipedia
Ca++
Well-known member
These 2 wire blowers have some decent performance, if it's for filtration on a smaller scale. They are quite loud though, compared to the axial fans we have been chatting about. They kinda thump between magnets, if you turn one by hand. Smaller ones found in humidifiers are quiet enough, and blow well through a small hole. Typical they use a 6025 (60mmX25mm) while a 10030 starts to be a noise. I have a 30w 10030 and it's somewhat like a hair drier. I just don't want it. Though I guess it could be muffled and boxed, if anyone really wants it (UK)
That's the start of a potassium deficiency. Too much Cal-Mag can lock-out K, and I suspect that *may* be the cause (without knowing anything else) because the rest of the plant is quite green, indicating sufficient Nitrogen, Magnesium and Calcium. Magnesium deficiency looks more like an overall yellowing of the leaf with interveinal chlorosis, sometimes accompanied by a Calcium deficiency (rust spots) and sometimes Nitrogen yellowing at the bottom of the plant (Nitrogen facilitates magnesium uptake).
The almost fool-proof way to identify a K deficiency (or lock-out – as I suspect in this case) is that the yellowing starts at the tips and edges of the leaves and works it's way back towards the inside leaf and petioles (leaf stems).
I would rule out light exposure as the culprit as a) it doesn't look like it, and b) it is all over the plant, even on the lower leaves which are unlikely to have been over-exposed.
Hiddenjems
Well-known member
Exactly. I dry at a really low starting humidity, but at really cool temps.
Okay so I have a little photo dump of my second attempt after switching from HPS /HID to led. I'm still going to say that a combination of a LED and 315 CMH is working best for me
So the first banks of pics will be my LED only ( until last week when I added a CMH instead of a heater
currently week 7 .
I have had some humidity issues leading to a little bud rot + fact I've not been able to do the house keeping I would like.
So the first banks of pics will be my LED only ( until last week when I added a CMH instead of a heater
currently week 7 .I have had some humidity issues leading to a little bud rot + fact I've not been able to do the house keeping I would like.
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This next batch is of my ones with the 315w CMH and 400w of LED the entire way .
I'm really impressed with this set up. I have had some deficiencies develope in the past week but it's too late to fix now. Maybe due to the environment.
I'm really impressed with this set up. I have had some deficiencies develope in the past week but it's too late to fix now. Maybe due to the environment.
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Oh I forgot to add the first batch is Amnesia seeds Blackberry Moonrocks, Frozen Black cherry, apricot Oreoz
Aswel as two plants from Grower's choice, Blue dream sherbet. In Coco (18ltr)
Second batch is a Barney's Farm mimosa 6/7th generation clone I got from a friend. In 25tr of Coco .
Aswel as two plants from Grower's choice, Blue dream sherbet. In Coco (18ltr)
Second batch is a Barney's Farm mimosa 6/7th generation clone I got from a friend. In 25tr of Coco .
4maggio
Member
I've read that with LEDs temps should be in the mid 80Fs (LEDs emit no Infrared. To achieve similar metabolic rates found in HID lighting conditions at 78F air temp, LED growers need to run air temps at 84F to 88F.) where did I read this? I can only think I read it here some few years ago. My last grow (my first with an LED) featured 6-7 year old BB Blue Cheese seeds. I did run it at 81F plus or minus 2-3 degrees F and 60%rh.. Potency and terps were far ahead of dispensary offerings at 34% THC . I couldn't bring myself to go to 88F.
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4maggio
Member
Back in the days of a very small grow box and 600w HPS, I grew some BB Cheese (maybe the best I've ever grown) after the stretch the top colas were 3-4" from the the HPS thru harvest. YES the tops were bleached white but the bud still kicked ass.Science says 85F is optimal, if you can keep it at that.. less then 77F you are nearing a "freezing" point in terms of photosynthesis power, we dry at 65F...
Take that in mind, i also seen improvement with LEDs when u keep heat above 82F like Kimes said.
Heat is your friend, dont avoid it, it what makes them grow, just dont burn em
BTW I'm not a fan of dispensaries calling their buds FLOWER.
I realize it is not incorrect, it just rubs me the wrong way. Have a good day all.
Brings new meaning to buy your date flowers on the first date, lol.
White albino tips have higher thc, i think the study is in this thread somewhere.
Herbal-Essence
Well-known member
I've also came to the same conclusion, most of my problems with defiancies under LED were caused by too low temps, I can only get my growroom temperature up to about 27° Celsius max, but that made a huge difference already. The metabolism of the plants seems to just work better or rather properly at these temps.
old pressure lamps in retrospect almost seem foolproof compared to LED
The only time I've ever cared about temps under HPS was when it burned the tips and I had to put in a cooltube
old pressure lamps in retrospect almost seem foolproof compared to LED
The only time I've ever cared about temps under HPS was when it burned the tips and I had to put in a cooltube
Yea my temps are farrrrr too low. I added the CMH to one that helped but I think I need more heat. Looking to heat my lungs room/cupboard to try and save some money running a couple of heater .
My friend adviced I turn down the extraction but with the humidity issues I have that's the last thing I want. Reducing air exchange and all that.
My friend adviced I turn down the extraction but with the humidity issues I have that's the last thing I want. Reducing air exchange and all that.
4maggio
Member
small dehumidifier might help. If you can.
CannaT
starin' at the world through my rearview
You cant have the same metabolic rates... the biggest metabolic rates comes from difference between air temp and leaf temp without great amount of IR it cant be done.
I think that perfect setup is LED/HPS mix.
Atm I have blue led spectrum + yellow spectrum + hps will plan to put small CMH/MH between leds for more UV and this will be perfect.
4maggio
Member
I went to LED for heat and safety reasons.. 1 Plant, more than I need. I'm old, most of my hang around partners either don't do it anymore, moved away or are dead.
