LED and BUD QUALITY

[Scfarmer]

I use ones like these, with a voltage dial 5v-12v to adjust fan speed.

View attachment 19081451

Thanks , I was thinking of PWM style pc fans , will need to double check fittings

 

[Scfarmer]

Thanks , I was thinking of PWM style pc fans , will need to double check fittings

Looks at these!!

 

[smirnoff420]

Thanks , I was thinking of PWM style pc fans , will need to double check fittings

There are readymade adaptor cables from barrel connector to fan connector.

Personally, I just use these, universal adapter

 

[Ca++]

Them DC 2.1mm jack to 4pin fan connectors, are few and far between. I found one, but no stock


I tend to get the scissors out. I think with the daisy-chain I outlined, you get two 15cm fan leads, branching out from the main run, every 55cm. That is using the tripple splitters. There are quads available. In any case, you need an extra plug somewhere, just to hack it off, to get some bare wires. You could also do that to your DC power supply, and just twist the wires. However, it's nice to keep things modular. For reasons like re-configuring, or packing away, or simply a bit broke. For this reason, I would hack off the unused fan plug, and screw on one of these

You get a 5 pack of males and females, for a couple of quid.

For a PSU, I like the brick style ones, rather than a wall wart.

I tape over the lights, which is a waste. However, I like being able to access the thing easily. My tent has one for floor fans, and one for roof. Each hangs in my tent, a bit higher than a light switch would be. Just inside the door. I notice this one actually supplies that plug with the green terminal block. As do others. It's about £10 delivered from ali in 5 days.

The PWM fans will slow with reduced voltage. They are all different, but usually spin up as you reach about 5 volts. It's actually quieter to slow them with reduced voltage, than PWM. So all you are interested in, from a wiring point of view, is 2 wires. IIRC black is on the outside, with red beside it. Always check though. The green plug is actually labeled +/- and + is the middle pin if you needed to know.
It's just a couple of wires, to swap one plug from 4pin to 2.1mm (if a convertor isn't posted somewhere) edit: amusingly, even my link to one just vanished, and it was Amazon. Who love click bait.

 

[acespicoli]

We see here that the white stuff wrapped around our filters, is general mould standard. However filter depth is a big issue. With just a 50% capture rate, you want a couple of tries, or a thick bed. Once we know that air is clean, we can think about hepa filters. We don't want to waste the costly hepa, catching spores that cheap stuff can be used for.

There is only so much you can do. I can say your covid jab or inhaler could of been develped at a site where I changed the filters. The only use of kit beyond air filters, was actually on the exhaust. UV, to deal with hazardous vapour in cabinets. Yes, I'm trained to put on a suit, to walk along like I have shit myself, to a room where I changed into another suit, to continue on my way. It was very clean.

The key here, is not to rely on any one method. Clean your room. Clean the air going in. Keep hitting the plants with things to get a protection response from them. Grow them with silicone to toughen the cells against attack, and remove all dead stuff before it becomes a breeding site. Open up the plants structure, and get air moving though them. Choose fast strains, and resistant one's. Don't dwell on the idea of if they need a bit longer. If you are not sure, then they are already done. Another week is just increasing the moulds chances.

Cleanroom - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org

 

[Ca++]

Looks at these!!

These 2 wire blowers have some decent performance, if it's for filtration on a smaller scale. They are quite loud though, compared to the axial fans we have been chatting about. They kinda thump between magnets, if you turn one by hand. Smaller ones found in humidifiers are quiet enough, and blow well through a small hole. Typical they use a 6025 (60mmX25mm) while a 10030 starts to be a noise. I have a 30w 10030 and it's somewhat like a hair drier. I just don't want it. Though I guess it could be muffled and boxed, if anyone really wants it (UK)

 

[Prawn Connery]

everything WAS good until the fall started (dark panels with light veins). now the inverse led colour scheme strikes again
View attachment 19077150

That's the start of a potassium deficiency. Too much Cal-Mag can lock-out K, and I suspect that *may* be the cause (without knowing anything else) because the rest of the plant is quite green, indicating sufficient Nitrogen, Magnesium and Calcium. Magnesium deficiency looks more like an overall yellowing of the leaf with interveinal chlorosis, sometimes accompanied by a Calcium deficiency (rust spots) and sometimes Nitrogen yellowing at the bottom of the plant (Nitrogen facilitates magnesium uptake).

The almost fool-proof way to identify a K deficiency (or lock-out – as I suspect in this case) is that the yellowing starts at the tips and edges of the leaves and works it's way back towards the inside leaf and petioles (leaf stems).

I would rule out light exposure as the culprit as a) it doesn't look like it, and b) it is all over the plant, even on the lower leaves which are unlikely to have been over-exposed.

 

[Hiddenjems]

Sure, you can define your climate using temp and rh.

Using the vpd and the temperature makes more sense from a physical point of view. The VPD basically dictates how much moisture is extracted over time, and the temperature can control the amount of terps retained.
We're still in the development phase, but it looks like 0.8 is a great value for living plants and for drying and curing. Basically, it's much easier to steer using the VPD value, and also kind of more meaningful.

Exactly. I dry at a really low starting humidity, but at really cool temps.