No it doesn't work like that. You will always have mold spores.there will never be an mold spores present to grow despite the conditions
the habitat recruits. mold spores are always there. they only become a problem when they land on suitable habitat.Whilst we've gone a little off topic and mainly because I'm trying solve my mold problem, since I can't do much to get my humidity where it should be consistently on my current space.
Does anyone know of an air purifier that cleans surfaces, not ozone based i know the technology exists that basically breaks down water into H202 vapour, I just can't find a suitable product that won't break the bank. photohydroionization is one of those technologies.
Apparently safe for humans, animals and plants.
Atleast with one of these running throughout my grow there will never be an mold spores present to grow despite the conditions
Not even that. Porous surfaces such as plastic can't be fully cleaned. Sterilizing works to an extent (if the device can tolerate it) but some spores only germinate after a heat treatment so there's that.you can scrub the space clean, use h202 between grows, and the instant you bring in fresh air the spores will be present again.
Yea I fully understand that it's a habitat problem. The spores are always there settling on the flowers and only in he right conditions will that take hold.the habitat recruits. mold spores are always there. they only become a problem when they land on suitable habitat.
you must control the environmental conditions that create suitable habitat before you grow.
you can scrub the space clean, use h202 between grows, and the instant you bring in fresh air the spores will be present again.
one of the best old school control methods is to spray your plants twice weekly with neem oil. during veg only, spraying during flower will taint the flowers.
what this does is impart a systemic resistance that will continue past the cessation of spraying.
but really, the best approach is to control the environment first.
Good point, I will try using a dehumidifier sooner on the next run as well as some better house keeping in my room. Considering I've had humidity like this, a jungle and stupidly turned half the fans off/lowest setting my issue isn't too bad . Hopefully I can make it until finish time in a few weeks..No it doesn't work like that. You will always have mold spores.
Even pharmaceutical standards of sterility say that there are less than 1 colony forming units per 100.000 units produced. Achieving that requires effort way beyong any cannabis operation. You can't even test for sterility.
Forgot to add my statsGood point, I will try using a dehumidifier sooner on the next run as well as some better house keeping in my room. Considering I've had humidity like this, a jungle and stupidly turned half the fans off/lowest setting my issue isn't too bad . Hopefully I can make it until finish time in a few weeks..
I switched at end of August and you can clearly see where I added the 315CMH and an Aircon a few days ago.
Yea at that humidity you get mold. Not much you can do about that but reduce humidty. If you have 80+ % in the 'open' then you have 90+ % inside the buds, where it truly matters.Forgot to add my stats
Low voltage fans are a good idea, where things can get wet. Often an upturned plant pot can form a platform, or they can be hooked onto the side of containers, where they are less likely to get knocked over. Case fans like the 14cm ones, are only 25mm thick. They take very little space.Scf, id try a bunch of small low watts dc fans, i droves in between the pots or directed to the walls. You need under cannopy air movement, but since height restrictions wont allow you to lolipop a few oscillating fans (our solution ) wont work. So next best bet would be to move the air below in a sorta "diffused" way: get air moving while not flailing against leaves.
Could be tricky to setup if youre on water collecting trays wall to wall (fan sitting in runoff water unless you figure out something clever) and then when you think you have a good setup with plants in place you get a lighter (or maybe a candle or zippo lighter) and try to find youre dead air spots, where the flame is not flickering. Eliminate these dead air apots and go growing.
If you think about it a little : wheres the largest amount of water in your growspace? Sitting in pots. I learnt the hard way never to water my mint plants late in the evening or at night. Powdered mildew every time due to rh being really high around a wet pot in the cold. If i watered in the morning with a day of sun on the plants never a problem. And of course time your watering to start of light on.
This the thread where led growers help eachother like bros but i agree its time to get back to led bud quality (im also guilty of derailing lol)
I super agree; do an everything approach, also remember that your led strips are fully sealed at 2 level: strips are coated themselves but also the diodes have a silicone protecting seal at manufacture: we occasionally burn sulfur, which can damage the diode (i think its mainly the little reflector that sits behind the epis and phospohor, which is made of silver. Silver doesnt like sulfur, just like youre not supposed to eat eggs with the nice silver); while weve not had any immediate break downs of any lights i know some of our older china boards have lost a fair bit of output. Those GLA strips should even be waterproof, you can litterally hose them down as long as you seal the solder join for the wires. Im fully comfortable burning sulfur with these while the rest is well buy new ones when they fail.The key here, is not to rely on any one method. Clean your room. Clean the air going in. Keep hitting the plants with things to get a protection response from them. Grow them with silicone to toughen the cells against attack, and remove all dead stuff before it becomes a breeding site. Open up the plants structure, and get air moving though them. Choose fast strains, and resistant one's. Don't dwell on the idea of if they need a bit longer. If you are not sure, then they are already done. Another week is just increasing the moulds chances.
Yea sir! I will be posting some pics of my bud quality at week 7/8 shortly, some are ahead of others and looking so fine! Very dense compared to previous HPS grows.Scf, id try a bunch of small low watts dc fans, i droves in between the pots or directed to the walls. You need under cannopy air movement, but since height restrictions wont allow you to lolipop a few oscillating fans (our solution ) wont work. So next best bet would be to move the air below in a sorta "diffused" way: get air moving while not flailing against leaves.
Could be tricky to setup if youre on water collecting trays wall to wall (fan sitting in runoff water unless you figure out something clever) and then when you think you have a good setup with plants in place you get a lighter (or maybe a candle or zippo lighter) and try to find youre dead air spots, where the flame is not flickering. Eliminate these dead air apots and go growing.
If you think about it a little : wheres the largest amount of water in your growspace? Sitting in pots. I learnt the hard way never to water my mint plants late in the evening or at night. Powdered mildew every time due to rh being really high around a wet pot in the cold. If i watered in the morning with a day of sun on the plants never a problem. And of course time your watering to start of light on.
This the thread where led growers help eachother like bros but i agree its time to get back to led bud quality (im also guilty of derailing lol)
What kinda of thing are you using as power supplies for these, in assuming you mean like PC/computer fans yea .Low voltage fans are a good idea, where things can get wet. Often an upturned plant pot can form a platform, or they can be hooked onto the side of containers, where they are less likely to get knocked over. Case fans like the 14cm ones, are only 25mm thick. They take very little space.