Take a light from the garage and plug it into a different power supply in house or better still at another house if possible and that will rule out a problem with shed wiring .
Rather than chasing your tail thinking its the shed wiring
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LED AFTERGLOW
- Thread starter 4maggio
- Start date
Rather than chasing your tail thinking its the shed wiring
4maggio
Member
I will try the household circuit idea today. Can't get it to another house to try.. Thanks for the suggestion.
No problem ,im a sparky by trade happy to help if i can
Well you know its not your wiring ,id be contacting the supplier . The light is useless unless you are growing autos .
Ca++
Well-known member
It's always the EU guys, with the plug turned through 180 degree's. All this deep dive cable capacitance talk is nonsensed by the fact all 3 cores are tied by actual capacitors anyway. Part of the common mode choke at the drivers input.No problem ,im a sparky by trade happy to help if i can
What they need is a cheap ass contactor, that are really relays, swapping out for a double pole. Or a real contactor used, with both L&N switched. Then they get a proper full disconnect.
I reckon they would sell, but only with EU plugs.
I brought two brand new 1000w phlizon lights and both did the same thing out of the box after contacting them and a few back and forward conversations they sent 2 replacement drivers 1 for each fitting (fittings had 3 drivers in each) i replaced the faulty drivers and the problem was rectified .
Yes putting a contactor on the supply will work but it doesnt address the fault with the light you pay good money for .
Ca++
Well-known member
I guess I could help out, but it's not cheap, making the cheap stuff. It becomes uneconomical. Especially if you can get support from the manufacturer, for free.
I used to make boxes for 16 lights. Non ever failed, to this day. The boards people buy now are not fit for purpose, with exposed switchgear. Usually needing to be hard wired in, but with no cable support offered. Often using a bit of flex to the timer, which might be protected by a fuse that just laughs at it. Junk, the lot of it.
I made water proof boxes that just plug in. I have no idea what these people are thinking, making big wooden boards that need an electrician.
I stopped before LEDs came around. I actually have no idea how hard they are to switch. Nothing like the HIDs I'm sure. Do we even need contactors anymore? I use them out of habit, but it would be interesting to hear what people are switching, with basic plug-in timers. More than 600w I'm sure.
I used to make boxes for 16 lights. Non ever failed, to this day. The boards people buy now are not fit for purpose, with exposed switchgear. Usually needing to be hard wired in, but with no cable support offered. Often using a bit of flex to the timer, which might be protected by a fuse that just laughs at it. Junk, the lot of it.
I made water proof boxes that just plug in. I have no idea what these people are thinking, making big wooden boards that need an electrician.
I stopped before LEDs came around. I actually have no idea how hard they are to switch. Nothing like the HIDs I'm sure. Do we even need contactors anymore? I use them out of habit, but it would be interesting to hear what people are switching, with basic plug-in timers. More than 600w I'm sure.
I think most use a controller and the data cable and if theres more than 1 light they daisy link the light control (data cable) .
Thats the way i run mine plugged into power 24/7 and controlled via controller (dimming ,sunset features, etc)
