Rocket Soul
Well-known member
Ok ill unlearn
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LED AFTERGLOW
- Thread starter 4maggio
- Start date
well sure, maybe go to details, how the cables work, and how much (? nF/km) is the difference along the way please
Did you watch the video? This is not an electrician explaining how to fix a thing. It is an electrical engineer explaining why a circuit behaves a certain way and which design change is necessary.
The fix here, as many said, is to turn the plug in the socket.
as i see, from the comments, none of you here told me the answer how the cables work as a capacitor, with how long distance from the nullpoint will able to generate the minimum amount of voltage that will ghostlight the leds constantly.
and as i told, solving the problem is not equal with correcting the source of error.
did you read the link i put here with kromagnons problem? error was the same but the solution was simply changing his old shit extension cord .. where is the polarity change in that situation?
and as i told, solving the problem is not equal with correcting the source of error.
did you read the link i put here with kromagnons problem? error was the same but the solution was simply changing his old shit extension cord .. where is the polarity change in that situation?
The efficiency of today’s LEDs allow any ‘trapped’ energy to power the lights. Long power cables act as a small capacitor, storing small amounts of energy. That small amount of energy will power certain LED lights under lights off conditions. LED’s don’t require much power to run…
The drivers SHOULD stop this from happening, but not every driver is the same.
Using a surge protector or a timer between the extension cord out of the wall and power cord of the LED helps with this issue somewhat. They interrupt the flow from the small amount of capacitance. Of course, I’m speaking from a US perspective. It sounds like y’all in Europe have some pretty neat outlets that can do things ours don’t.
Regarding Electroboom, his videos more or less highlight safety towards electronics and issues of dealing with household electronics, how electricity works towards the layman, and worst use cases that elucidate the dangers of electricity. Good videos, if you ask me.
okay thanks, but i did not ask this
how much is the difference ( i would like to see something in the measure i gave .. nF/km), and how long cables from nullpoint will generate it.
how much is the difference ( i would like to see something in the measure i gave .. nF/km), and how long cables from nullpoint will generate it.
It's AC. It changes polarity 50 times per second.Ask for quantitative measurements. It doesn't matter. Qualitative analysis is sufficient for the problem.
I have a DIY LED here with a Mean Well power supply. Depending on the spin of the timer I get glowing LEDs or completely off. I presented a theoretical explenation of why it functions like that.
I did answer half of your question.okay thanks, but i did not ask this
how much is the difference ( i would like to see something in the measure i gave .. nF/km), and how long cables from nullpoint will generate it.
The other half of your question is extremely dependent and pushing calculus-type math. How long, what gauge, and quality of build.
Here’s a few links that I believe touch on what you’re asking. Im not sure if it will answer 100%.
Math for cables, might be applicable.
https://www.emisoftware.com/calculator/wire-pair-capacitance/
An Eaton/Moeller paper dealing with mostly longer cables, still somewhat applicable.
http://www.moeller.net/binary/ver_techpapers/ver949en.pdf
Anecdotal and some math in a physics discussion that delves into electrical theory.
https://www.physicsforums.com/threa...n-in-an-extension-cord-when-unplugged.532017/
so it does not matter, if the timer breaks the N or the L.... you still did not read my link about kro magnons problem
I’ll be honest with you, I can’t find the post so I have no idea what the problems they had.
it was an old extension cord, and sorry comment was not addresed to you but on the previous comment. there is a link on the previous page.
Avoid this cheapo company
Its cool to see Mars step up and respond to this problem posted in their own forum...oh that is right they have not made any comments.....there's your answer right there....no reputable company is going to have you doing electrical work to "warranty" the light. I built my own light from scratch...
www.icmag.com
4maggio
Member
Thank you BF. ACI controllers (2) one for each incoming 15amp line. Both on battery backups. The light is 400w California light works. Controller#1 runs exhaust fan and humidifier. Controller #2 runs LED and little heater in the tent. I also run a 500gpm pump every hour for 10 seconds. You're saying I need to power something else on Controller #2 that runs the LED. Meow. What is that going to be? Fans I guess.
Rocket Soul
Well-known member
Battery backup possible culprit? Is it an easy disconnect then thats where i would try.
4maggio
Member
Yeow.. not meow
Hmmm… Doesn’t sound like an issue that would need more load.
It could be a number of things. Controller #2 would be immediate suspect, but I’d still recommend checking everything else, too.
Time to bust out your multimeters to start finding the continuity issue.
I assume the battery backups have an inverter system? Possible the inverter has a capacitor issue.
Possible that the extension or surge protector is in poor shape.
Possible that the controller is malfunctioning.
The multimeter will tell you where the issue is.
4maggio
Member
Thank you again BF and "Good l
Luck" to you too. Electricity and multi meters aren't my strong suit, so that isn't MY answer. The BB is brand new. I will try direct hook up to the incoming line with a mechanical timer. Yes it is most likely the BB. I Wish I had paid more attention during the first run.
Hiddenjems
Well-known member
Your house is wired wrong. Lifting the ground pin will fix your issue, but I don’t recommend running lights that way.
4maggio
Member
What! What do you mean. Wired wrong? Please. Tell me more. I've tried every combination of with ups, without ups. Extra load.. the only thing that puts that 'afterglow' out is not being plugged into anything (thanks for the ideas BF).
Hiddenjems
Well-known member
Sounds like there is a borrowed leg somewhere, an improperly wires light that has two switches, or a ground/neutral issue somewhere.
4maggio
Member
Well HJ.. you have me twitching. 'Lift the ground pin'? 'borrowed leg'? 'two switches'? 'ground neutral'?
You're killin' me (but thanks).. I have little idea what those terms mean. How to correct them? No idea.
We're dealing with hurricane Milton aftermath and now have an electrical anomaly. Great.
You sound like an electrically educated person: I took an existing 30amp service in my garage and split into 2, 15 amp services for my grow room/tent. Would that be a logical place to look for correction?
Additionally, 2 small LEDs I use for just lighting the room, continue to glow too, that are on original household electricity circuit. Please, give me just a little direction (if it's possible). Thanks again for the incite.
You're killin' me (but thanks).. I have little idea what those terms mean. How to correct them? No idea.
We're dealing with hurricane Milton aftermath and now have an electrical anomaly. Great.
You sound like an electrically educated person: I took an existing 30amp service in my garage and split into 2, 15 amp services for my grow room/tent. Would that be a logical place to look for correction?
Additionally, 2 small LEDs I use for just lighting the room, continue to glow too, that are on original household electricity circuit. Please, give me just a little direction (if it's possible). Thanks again for the incite.
