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Installing a subpanel - need advice

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Guest

All 'bout them amps

All 'bout them amps

Well I just cut up a old cord laying around to show you...
But try to make your juctions as close to the ballasts as you can and if it's long enough, yes you can use the old plug in end piece. Allways use the same or bigger gauge wires. The rating of the cord should be printed on the cord its self or in the book that came with the ballasts. If you are going over the rating when splicing, then bigger wire for the plug end. Say each lamp is 5A the plug cord side sould be rated at 10A, the cords for each lamp is fine because they split the amps, can ya dig it...

Would bet your lamp cords are 20A already. Check too make sure, for sure.

Nice job word...
I got a thing about plastic, but hey that's alot cleaner then most setups. Ya groovy with the timer, good spot. If you dig deep into your wiring or next time, throw a piece of sheetrock between the box/plywood, a fire thing...
 
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Guest

Thats it man,from the 2 pole breaker to the timer from the timer to a box holding the receptacles.I would use a metal 4 sq. in box with a RS cover "raised receptacle cover".Its just you basic 4 sq 2 1/8 inch box.You can get it deeper too it would make it easier.You have the diagram perfect though
 
G

Guest

You might wanna' think about sitting all your ballasts together and hardwire them straight to the timer useing that "pig tail" I showed you as one set of wires. You'd have a lot less "breaks" in your lines. Just remember it's all about those amps. That would look sweet, all piped in no plugs...

Four 1000w HPS is around 18.5A, all hooked together as one, your amprage may vary... 30A wire rating to the timer, because it's just too close to 20A, if I did it...
 
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Guest

I had 3 1K's on a 12 wire 20 amp for some time,after awhile the breaker would trip occasionally,I repulled 10 wire and used a 25A breaker and no problems.You can either use a 25 or a 30A but by code you should use a 2 pole 30A
 
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Guest

I know you're getting 2 different ways to do it from 2 different people,its a good thing because we are both right.Being that they dont make duplex 240V receptacles and you have 4 fixtures,I'd stick with 120V receptacles so you can plug all 4 fixtures into 1 box.This will save many splices(cord caps and ballast wires)and splices are the weakest part of the system.I hope I didnt confuse you too much lol
 
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Guest

You must spread some Reputation around before giving it to ballastman again.

Yes it's like comparing apples to apples for sure. So many ways to skin that cat. A receptacle is a "pig tail/splice" that you see and use everyday, and the wire nut version is hiding in a box some where, both as good as the other. Still don't like useing 120v receptacles but I was thinking there is a double 207v receptacle that just might carry those amps never used one, so I don't know the rating. They looks just like word's drawing if I remember right, you know the fire red receptacles that you see in hospital rooms.
 
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Guest

You shoudlnt be worrying about amps at all bro in this instance,as the voltage is doubled the amperage is halved,I know you knew that man things slip by me all the time too lol.Most people worry"will it handle the voltage",and the answer I can say from practical experience along with knowledge of receptacles a resounding yes,a 120V receptacle can handle 240V.In reality it can handle 600V,same as the wire insulation over the conductor going into it.Its all in the configuration,there is nothing mechanically or physically different between a 120V receptacle and a 240V.And even though the amperage is halved and defianately no concern,I wouldnt use cheap 15A residential 120V receptacles.Use comercial grade 15 or 20A,industrial grade is overkill.
 
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Guest

It is all about the amps

It is all about the amps

ballastman

A receptacle is rated to 600v, yes. But a 120v 20A receptacle would be a rating of 600v 4A not still 20A. So a 120v 15A would rate at 240v 7.5A see, That's why when volts and amps go up together the plugs/wires get bigger, look at a stove/dryer outlet or ever seen a 480v 30A twist lock? There is bigger pieces/contacts between 240v 20A and 120V 20A. Just keep everything with in the ratings and it's all good. Adding that I'm not sure about double receptacles as to that being 20A all together or split between the the pair. I know "industrial", not much "residential". Whould be good to know though, I'm going to ask someone who knows, for sure.
 
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Guest

Jackson thats not how it works bro,a 15A rating is a 15A rating regardless of the voltage applied,the amperage rating is not going to be cut in half if you double the voltage believe me.When you have 12 wire single pole circuit,its rated at 20A.When you have a two pole 12 wire 20A circuit,its still rated at 20A even though the voltage is doubled.Its the same thing amperage rating of a device wont change with voltage the same way amperage rating of wire wont change with voltage.Believe me bro,I've been growing this way for 6 years,been an electrician longer than I can remember or care to lol,and I wouldnt put this down if I didnt do the identical thing in my own home.
 
simpleword

simpleword

Active member
I got a really good deal on a mis-labeled t104r timer today. Would you guys check out the link here and tell me if it would work or not. I don't see any reason why it wouldn't but just thought I'd check. The only downside is this thing is huge!Thanks!
 
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ballastman said:
Jackson thats not how it works bro,a 15A rating is a 15A rating regardless of the voltage applied,the amperage rating is not going to be cut in half if you double the voltage believe me.When you have 12 wire single pole circuit,its rated at 20A.When you have a two pole 12 wire 20A circuit,its still rated at 20A even though the voltage is doubled.Its the same thing amperage rating of a device wont change with voltage the same way amperage rating of wire wont change with voltage.Believe me bro,I've been growing this way for 6 years,been an electrician longer than I can remember or care to lol,and I wouldnt put this down if I didnt do the identical thing in my own home.
Click to expand...

Go to HomeDepot and check it out. Lots of plug at lots of ratings, even at same volts and they do not all look the same. With that said why aren't all 30A plugs the same size if there all rated at 30A 600v. Even just look at some 120v male plugs in your house. The more amps it pulls the bigger the plug legs(thicker). with 120v it's hard to see but put them side by side and some are thicker then others just with in range to fit the receptacle. We're just poking a stick at it here. Everybody go and find your own truth, please.
 
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Guest

Word

Oh Ya...
Now your cooking with gas... Another fine job, well done, my man
 
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Guest

Ughhh,shit bro that voltage rating is deceiving I know it,thats a timer you dont see too much except in office bldgs 277 flo lighting.I want to say no because the motor voltage wont match but man I'm not 100% positive.THORODEE!Man at home depot or lowes they have the WH-40 or thr T-103 I believe it is which is a 240V timer but no external on-off lever like the WH40) "little gray box".If you had that timer man you'd be set,I dont want to tell you to use that one,I dont think its gonna work.THorodee woudl nkow I bet.
 
simpleword

simpleword

Active member
ballastman said:
Ughhh,shit bro that voltage rating is deceiving I know it,thats a timer you dont see too much except in office bldgs 277 flo lighting.I want to say no because the motor voltage wont match but man I'm not 100% positive.THORODEE!Man at home depot or lowes they have the WH-40 or thr T-103 I believe it is which is a 240V timer but no external on-off lever like the WH40) "little gray box".If you had that timer man you'd be set,I dont want to tell you to use that one,I dont think its gonna work.THorodee woudl nkow I bet.
Click to expand...


Check out the manual though.


*the sample wiring diagram shows 240volt
 
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No man you cant use that timer lol blockhead is really some strong pot,just like the description says lol.
 
simpleword

simpleword

Active member
Damnit. What is wrong with it?

I live over an hour away from the closest home depot. I guess I'll have to order it online. The store I went to also had the wh-21, but it's a single pole. Oh well.

Thanks
 
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Guest

Can't find it at http://www.intermaticdotcom/ but it does say motor voltage and cycle must be specified for the T104's. Maybe that R means residential because it says it's for that use also... I say call them and ask use the part # from the motor cover. What does that say anyways that could tell you maybe.
 
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Guest

Mine is T104C, The digital version, it has DIPs inside to change volts just figured that one would be the same.
 
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