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Installing a subpanel - need advice

Nape

Member
One thing to ponder. If the wiring YOU did caused a fire and was found to be in violation of N.E.C. standards, you would nullify your homeowners insurance and could be held personally responsible. All plug ends and recepticles either 115 V. 230 V. 15 amp or 50 amp are all made different for saftey sake. Not that they can't handle the load but rather to keep you from putting 230v to a 115 v appliance.
All the electrical devices in question here are rated @ 600v. and do have a load rating in amps. a 12 g. wire can handle 20 amps at any AC voltage upto 600v. This does not mean that all Contacts, Switches, Timers or relays can do the same. These all have a rating of amps PER rated VOLTS.

:bat:
 
G

Guest

Ya it's cool, not offended in anyway, I've heard it before, industrail & residental never mixed that well in the field either, and best dropped.
The dopest I'll pass that that when I'm done to ballastman in peace... :joint: And yes it will physically work...

Post #2.
"You gave yourself the best advice...
If you want to do it by the book, go to the library get the book. It is basic for anybody, and you can do it. but a "teacher" is the best/savest way. Oh yea, get a volt meter and learn how it works, in few you'll know how to check for "hot" wires aleast."
 
G

Guest

Nape said:
One thing to ponder. If the wiring YOU did caused a fire and was found to be in violation of N.E.C. standards, you would nullify your homeowners insurance and could be held personally responsible. All plug ends and recepticles either 115 V. 230 V. 15 amp or 50 amp are all made different for saftey sake. Not that they can't handle the load but rather to keep you from putting 230v to a 115 v appliance.
All the electrical devices in question here are rated @ 600v. and do have a load rating in amps. a 12 g. wire can handle 20 amps at any AC voltage upto 600v. This does not mean that all Contacts, Switches, Timers or relays can do the same. These all have a rating of amps PER rated VOLTS.

:bat:

:chin:
 
G

Guest

ballastman said:
JESUSH if you werent offended by that,I hang my head in shame!
Nay, only words man...
I can't put someone down for words. Everybody thinks there right that's just human nature. Never take one mans word, ever...

Peace & Love to all men I say, and live.
 

Nape

Member
ballastman said:
JESUSH if you werent offended by that,I hang my head in shame!

I most certainly had no intentions of offense. :confused:
Just adding to the pile is all. Have you seen how many GROW FIRES that have been in the news as of late?


I have seen some pretty scary grow rooms in my time. I often hear, It looked fine to me, as they are suckin on another bong load........
 

simpleword

Active member
Haha, you guys are seriously cracking me up. I'm beginning to like this forum. There's still a void in my heart that OG once filled, but in time, I do believe I could get used to this place.
 
G

Guest

You must spread some Reputation around before giving it to Nape again.
You must spread some Reputation around before giving it to simpleword again.

The Fire Marshal writes faulty wiring on that report doesn't he... They only call it a electrical fire in the news/paper.
 

2buds

Active member
Well simple, it was your call. All said ideas will work fine. :yes: What you use is up to you. Even with the head butting its still a good informative thread. Just be careful and in the end simple you take responsibilty for your electrical project. Still good job everyone. :smile:
 

simpleword

Active member
Alright boys here she is. I decided to go with the 120 volt receptacles for simplicity's sake, I've yet to mark it. I am one of 2 people who will ever be accessing this room so it's not really a concern. If things look a little bowed it's because I'm using a really wide angle lens. Wiring all that 10 gauge solid cable in that little receptacle box was quite the bitch.

panelnb9.jpg
 
G

Guest

Still won't let me give rep to Ballastman and Jackson....

Still won't let me give rep to Ballastman and Jackson....

Gave you some rep. Word for getting it all done. Looks good. Many wishes to you regarding a green future with lots of sparkles and red hair. :wave:

Peace

This will never be OG..... it was the first and there can never be another first. But we can still be happy with our new found friends and confidants. :jump: :friends: :jump:
 
G

Guest

Good job man,is that a metal box behind that receptacle plate?If it is you need to pigtail the ground from the receptacles to the box to bond it,if its plastic forget it.I knew you could do this.Having all 4 lights controlled by 1 timer and plugged into 1 box is pretty nice huh?
 

simpleword

Active member
Thanks guys! Ballastman, it is a metal box, but you said earlier that I need to pigtail a ground from the receptacles so I already did it. Thanks for all the help. I went from not knowing a damned thing about home wiring to pretty much knowing how the whole system works. I really appreciate all the help!
 
G

Guest

Glad we could all talk you through it,be aware those mechanical timers actuate a good 20 minute to half hour after what the tripper actually reads,you'll see what I mean.If you want it to come on at 8 am,set the tripper between 7:30 and 7:45 or so.I always err toward dark hours I like to get at least 15 minutes extra dark.
 
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simpleword

Active member
Okay I am going to plug in the wires to the main breaker pretty soon. So, it's my understanding that if I kill the main breaker switch, and the switch outside of the house by the meter, then there is no way I can be electrocuted. Is this correct? Also just to verify, I do not need to plug in the neutral wire to the main breaker or the subpanel because I am only doing 240 volts, right?
 
G

Guest

Thats right the only reason you would need a neutral is if you were running some 120 circuits which you're not,even when you kill power use a tester if you dont have a tester treat it like its hot!If you have a main breaker in the main panel there is no reason to turn off the disconnect by the meter,unless it makes you feel safer.When you kill that main breaker it will kill power to the busbar in that panel.The only thing that will be hot in the panel are the wires coming into the main breaker which you'd have to intentionally touch to get nailed,that'd be pretty hard
 
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G

Guest

I dont like that he was going to make it hot and never came back,could be construed a few different ways lol
 

simpleword

Active member
Yeah dude, I died. I seriously fucked up. Well at least as a ghost I can browse the internet. Haha thanks for your concern. Somehow finishing the wiring turned into drinking a bottle of seagram's 7. These things can happen.
 

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