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High Brix soil grow

C

c-ray

maybe i am missing something...but isnt promix hp inert with no nutes(other than mykos if you get that bag) other than a small starter formula thats good for a few days?

it would seem weird to me that a peat/perlite mix would pass and be borderline high on P....care to explain and tell me what the tests on promix hp were?

i currently use promix hp with myco...but i feed every feeding with a plain water once a week, plants look great...wondering if maybe you made a mistake?

other than that great thread man, good info in here!

apparently peat moss naturally contains lots of potassium
 

budrunners

Active member
I want to thank everyone for the kind words and keeping the thread going, I will try to answer any questions, I will post up my list of products used and how I use them. As I have said before I will not engage in a pissing contest, this is what is working for me and not saying anyone is doing the wrong thing, if what you are doing is giving you the results you desire then stick with it.

Peace
 

budrunners

Active member
Here is a quick list so far and will keep adding more info as time allows
I used a 16oz. measuring cup for scooping the equal parts for the minerals listed below
THIS IS THE 6-5-3 MINERAL BASE MIX I USE

6 parts Calcium Carbonate - Marble dust its 98+% pure 50# bag 7.00 kelp4less has it for 5# 14.00

5 parts Soft Rock Phosphate - picked it up at kelp4less

3 parts Gypsum - Hoe-Down Gypsum soil conditioner 23% available calcium 15-18% sulfur 40# bag 11.00 kelp4less has it listed as calcium sulfate

blend all minerals together, this is your mineral base

75% premier peat moss ( my brand preference )
25% Happy Frog potting soil ( it has mycos, worm castings etc. )
2-3 gallons of perlite per 2 cu ft of soil mix ^^^ ( I use fabric containers this amount is good, add a little more for plastic containers )
3 quart bag of earth worm castings per 2 cu ft of soil mix
1 cup bone meal per 2 cu ft of soil mix
1/2 - 1 cup azomite per 2 cu ft of soil mix - picked it up at kelp4less
1-1/2 to 2 cups mineral base ^^^^ per 2 cu ft of soil mix

Mix it up, then put in a clean container I like using garbage cans, brew up a good tea about 2-3 gallons pour it slowly over the soil to activate the microbes so they can get to work, it needs to be in a warm space. Ready to use after a month cooking so to speak

A quick list of items I like to use for my drenches and foilar feedings

I prefer Earth Juice Catalyst, Micro, Grow, Bloom. Dextrose, Steens 100% pure cane sugar syrup ( once a week ) Hygrozyme, Neptune hydrolyzed fish and seaweed ( foliar ) Koolbloom cationic drench NH4 ( to rev up plant energy at initial flower formation stimulates reproductive growth then again 2 weeks later, weak mix not full strength ) Calcium Nitrate ( used after Koolbloom to change plant energy back to Anion energy NO3 to promote growth and bulking ) Medina Liquid Humus

Stopped using PGR, Amaze and Bloomit ..... PGR is seaweed in a bottle and replaced it with Neptune fish and seaweed, Amaze is basically calcium nitrate NO3 to promote growth and bulking and Bloomit NH4 to trigger reproduction is very similar to Koolblom which burns plants if mixed wrong all this was used for foliar feedings

the feedings are once week the energy drenches happens in the place of watering between feeding

Nutrient drenches and foliar schedule coming up later
 
Hey BR,

Thanks for sharing the details. Could you tell he how you evaluated and then decided to switch off the intl AgLabs products?

Also wondered if you could be vulnerable for a magnesium deficiency because of all the added calcium inputs. How does that work?
Lastly i've been paranoid about incorporating any high K material...no worries with the 10% soluble K2O?

Thanks for your crafty tips and Happy New Year.
 
apparently peat moss naturally contains lots of potassium


I was wondering about the K / promix info too. I just read a text that, i think says peat is very low in K because there is very little in rain and snow; consequently K is deficient in peat bogs. 2 other reason: K quickly washes away in organic soil and because K is monovalent and easily displaced by cations of higher valence.
 

budrunners

Active member
I jumped off the Ag line because I felt like the teas lacked, with Earth Juice I could customize to meet the plants needs and luckily I had plenty laying around. Had E.J. failed to meet my expectations I would have gone back to AG line of recommended feedings and sprays. E.J. in combination with the soil/mineral mix has exceeded my expectations.
 

budrunners

Active member
FEEDING SCHEDULE:

---------- Catalyst----Microblast-------Grow--------Bloom-----Sugar cane syrup--------Hygrozyme------Kool Bloom---Calcium Nitrate

1 )veg------5ml----------5ml-------- ----5ml
2 )veg------5ml------- --5ml---------- --5ml
3 )veg------5ml------- --5ml-------------5ml--------------------- -5ml--------------------2.5ml
4 )veg------7.5ml--------5ml------------7.5ml-------------------- --5ml--------------------2.5ml

1 )flwr-----10ml---------5ml------------7.5ml---------5ml-------- ----5ml--------------------2.5ml
2 )flwr-----10ml---------5ml------------10ml------- -10ml--------- ---5ml--------------------5.0ml--------1/8 tsp per gal
3 )flwr-----10ml---------5ml------------10ml------- -10ml-------- ---10ml-------------------5.0ml -------------------------------1tsp per gal
4 )flwr------5ml- -------5ml------------10ml---------15ml------- --10ml-------------------7.5 ml -------1/8 tsp per gal
5 )flwr------5ml- -------5ml------------10+ ml------20ml--------- --10ml--------------------5ml---------------------------------1 tsp per gal
6 )flwr--------------------5ml------------10+ ml------20-25ml---------10ml-------------------2.5ml
7 )flwr-------------- -----5ml----------------------- -20ml---------- --10ml
8 )flwr-----FLUSH


Spray Schedule:

Veg spray once a week spray day after feeding - ½ tsp Calcium Nitrate + 1 tsp Dextrose
use when plants are on 5th leaf set

Veg spray once a week Neptune Fish and Seaweed + Dextrose ** don't use if plants looks perfect **
use 2-3 days after Calcium nitrate and once a week during early bloom stop using when anionic and cationic sprays are being used

Humus water = 5ml Medina HuMate liquid humus + 1 gal water + 1 tsp Dextrose
use in place of plain watering once a week between feedings then use plain water if needed before next feeding ** not to be used during flush**

Anionic spray = ½ tsp Calcium Nitrate + 1 tsp Dextrose + 5ml Neptune Fish and Seaweed + 5ml Earth Juice Microblast.
To be used 1 day after Anionic Drench feedings are given to plants

REPRODUCTION spray = General Hydroponics Kool Bloom 1/16th tsp + 5 ml Neptune Fish and Seaweed + 1 tsp Dextrose + 5 ml EJ Microblast
To be used 1 day after Cationic Drench feedings are given to plants

Anionic and Cationic Drench are used on alternate feedings starting at the first sign of flower set development usually week 2-4 during BLOOM PHASE. We are going to play these two different sources of energy against each other which will result in more vigor and better essential oil production in herbs and more nutrition, sugars and calcium in fruits and vegetables.
 

paint4420

Member
Wondering how the concept of tea brewing fits into the schedule. would it help at all to aerate any of the mixtures drenches or foliars? Also wondering if the addition of a microbe heavy tea will help at all. Or do the enzymes in hydrozyme and the soil itself take care of this?

Im just wondering if its worth it to put alot of time into a vortex tea brewer if I wont need it using this method
 

budrunners

Active member
yes absolutely bubble all EJ mixtures for drenches it will develop the microbe population, hygrozyme helps clean and break down the nasties in the soil. Promotes healthier roots and especially in fabric pots since it air prunes roots in my case. I bubble with air stones and very happy with it. I do not bubble foliars and toss whatever is leftover after each spray session.
Medina Humate is awesome I like what it does for my girls between feedings
 

paint4420

Member
Having trouble finding which of the products contains any if at all, endomycorrhizae or its freinds/cousins. Would an innoculate or ewc mixed in provide that benefit?

I dont imagine it would hurt if added into the aerated drenches

Edit:Looks like the endomycorrhizae are only needed at seed level and transplant. My mistake

Still.curious if adding ewc to the drench will help or Inhibit
 

Gelado`

Active member
Veteran
Use compost and keep your soil moist: it provides a major boost in soil life. I top dress with both compost and EWC virtually every week and my plants are extremely healthy.
 

paint4420

Member
Budrunners, I was wondering if its possible to substitute a few things
For instance
Perlite with rice hulls
Calcium carbonate with garden lime/highcalcium pelletized lime
Bone meal with fish bone meal.

Just curious about these before I place the oder.

Ive heard fish bone meal is a beter source then regular bone meal. So I was curious
 
Gelado,

Did you get a recommendation from the lab to use compost?

My understanding is that compost is a little bit of a wild card in terms of content and that most composts are too high in K and Na to be ideal for high brix.

Just wondering. Any thoughts?
 

budrunners

Active member
Compost is not recommended for High Brix and that blew my mind thinking it's all good, don't ask me why, I'm just following lab recommendations NO compost. My grows have no compost.
Also I use the Gas Lantern Routine for my light schedule and my plants love it and my girls jump into bloom much faster.
BR~
 

paint4420

Member
12 on 5.5 off 1 on 5.5 off

Ive seen people say it reduces yeilds because flowers mature faster.

Ive seen people say that in organics the maturation time is increased

BR how are the yeilds did u notice a diffrence?
 
Bud runner are you buds with doc bud over on 420?

Seems like he's a few steps ahead of you though. Sometimes it looks like you copied his posts verbatim. At times it looks like you're misunderstanding some of the principles. (Comparing your recommendations to those of intl aglabs.

I'm interested in high brix and have done lots of homework. I'm grateful for the time, money, and thought that has been put into this technique as it applies to mj. I feel it's only right to give credit where it is deserved and duly earned.
 

budrunners

Active member
Yield is somewhat better with GLR but saving money and hours on running equipment is the nice thing about GLR and flower formations appear much sooner and plants look much healthier.
I cant vouch for what Doc asked Int. Labs when he was inquiring about when testing soils and getting recommendations for his grow, I asked for high brix growing tomatoes, berries and aromatic herbs. Apparently Docs results and mine resulted in one common thing and that is the Mineral Base they recommended which tells me that its the soil battery so to speak for making this happen and foilar sprays for priming the action. Trial and error with timing the NH4 and NO3 energy and seeing what Doc had produced helped me fine tune my personal grow.
Im not selling anything like Doc is, this is my journal of what I have done and sharing with the community nothing more nothing less. As I have said Im not telling anyone you are doing the wrong thing and my grow is better than yours, if what you are doing works for you then stay with it. His bud washing recipe is the SHIT..........
Not taking credit away from Doc for what he has done and started. Doc started something very unique and arguably something very special taking MJ to another level.
I visit this site to share not start a pissing contest like some others do.
Peace
BR~
 

budrunners

Active member
Gas lantern Routine

Seedlings I run 18/6

Once they get their 5th set of leaves I go to 12on/5.5off/1on/5.5off/12on repeat

In bloom 12on/12off first week

11on/13off second week then

10on/14off thereafter
 

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