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High Brix soil grow
- Thread starter budrunners
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budrunners
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Welcome Everyone, thanks for the inquires. I will try to answer as much as I can. I have no disagreement with anyone that is growing ROLS method if it works for you great keep doing it. I'm not here to persuade anyone's mind. I am merely sharing my experience.
They do test soils and yes they have products formulated for different applications, why try to re-invent the wheel, their products are for outdoor gardening / farming. Farmers use the lab to test their soils to determine any deficiencies and tailor their grow for specific plants such as lettuce vs. apples vs. berries all have different requirements to obtain high brix. Based on what the labs recommend the farmer amends the soil to meet the needs of the crop.
In my case I asked that they test my soil for Tomatoes, Berries and Aromatic Herbs and had explained that they would be container grown in greenhouses and indoor under grow lights. As it turns out it works perfectly more than what I had expected.
They recommend fishy ferts high in phosphoric acid ( i can't stand the smell ) so I asked them to look into Earth Juice products and they agreed in moderation that it would be a very good alternative choice to fishy ferts.
microbial tea ( alfalfa pellet compost, blackstrap molasses and EJ catalyst )
Bottom fed once a week with Earth Juice grow, bloom, catalyst, microblast, hygrozyme, sugar peak grande finale (used during late bloom).
Microbial tea drenches as needed instead of plain water between feedings.
foilar fed once a week in veg and bloom with catalyst, sugar peak grande finale(used during late bloom) and microblast at different strengths
I'm experimenting with Amaze foliar spray and dextrose also using PGR with Amaze for plant stress (PGR is basically kelp based to be used foliar)
Dextrose is a simple sugar and they recommended it for foliar sprays
AMAZE is a crystal-clear foliar spray and has a broad spectrum of trace minerals and 5 units of calcium. AMAZE is great because it combines plant-available phosphate with a soluble calcium. By combining the calcium with the phosphate the calcium becomes mobile in the plant. Phosphoric acid in the mix allows spray to penetrate the leaves.
Molasses is fine just sparingly, Kelp is good just not in high amounts.
They do test soils and yes they have products formulated for different applications, why try to re-invent the wheel, their products are for outdoor gardening / farming. Farmers use the lab to test their soils to determine any deficiencies and tailor their grow for specific plants such as lettuce vs. apples vs. berries all have different requirements to obtain high brix. Based on what the labs recommend the farmer amends the soil to meet the needs of the crop.
In my case I asked that they test my soil for Tomatoes, Berries and Aromatic Herbs and had explained that they would be container grown in greenhouses and indoor under grow lights. As it turns out it works perfectly more than what I had expected.
They recommend fishy ferts high in phosphoric acid ( i can't stand the smell ) so I asked them to look into Earth Juice products and they agreed in moderation that it would be a very good alternative choice to fishy ferts.
microbial tea ( alfalfa pellet compost, blackstrap molasses and EJ catalyst )
Bottom fed once a week with Earth Juice grow, bloom, catalyst, microblast, hygrozyme, sugar peak grande finale (used during late bloom).
Microbial tea drenches as needed instead of plain water between feedings.
foilar fed once a week in veg and bloom with catalyst, sugar peak grande finale(used during late bloom) and microblast at different strengths
I'm experimenting with Amaze foliar spray and dextrose also using PGR with Amaze for plant stress (PGR is basically kelp based to be used foliar)
Dextrose is a simple sugar and they recommended it for foliar sprays
AMAZE is a crystal-clear foliar spray and has a broad spectrum of trace minerals and 5 units of calcium. AMAZE is great because it combines plant-available phosphate with a soluble calcium. By combining the calcium with the phosphate the calcium becomes mobile in the plant. Phosphoric acid in the mix allows spray to penetrate the leaves.
Molasses is fine just sparingly, Kelp is good just not in high amounts.
budrunners
Active member
bloom
1.)mineralize the soil. top dress the 6-5-3 rock powders when you flip to bloom to re-energize the soil.
2.)increase soil biology with a good tea
3.)keep potassium levels down! IE don't feed anything with potassium over "1," IE 5-7-1 on NPK.
4.)keep cal/mag ratio at 7-10/1. This is best accomplished by getting calcium into the soil.
Foliar sprays work by feeding microbes at the roots, NOT by getting NPK to the leaves. If your soil is mineralized and the biota is happy and active.
I'm experimenting with different forms of nitrogen and changing the ionic balance in the soil. After talking to the guys in lab coats they were talking about different forms of nitrates so taking what they shared with me I have been experimenting.
Nitrates are readily available to the plant, but they also leach out of the soil easily with watering. Ammoniacal nitrogen (NH4) is different. It has a positive charge, whereas the nitrate (NO3) has a negative charge. Cation is positive, Anion is negative.
NH4 is captured by particles in the soil and are stored there until the roots and mycorrhizae on the roots break them loose and feed them to the plant.
When you feed with very lightly cationic forms of nitrogen, like Ammonium sulfate, ammonium phosphate, you get these cations and it stimulates reproductive growth from the plant. So far I have had best results feeding the cationic drench at 2 weeks and 5 weeks during bloom. Heavy feedings of cationic drenches produced negatives results and lower yield
I do this to rev them up just before bud set helps them explode in my room and they are much frostier to boot...I like it.
1.)mineralize the soil. top dress the 6-5-3 rock powders when you flip to bloom to re-energize the soil.
2.)increase soil biology with a good tea
3.)keep potassium levels down! IE don't feed anything with potassium over "1," IE 5-7-1 on NPK.
4.)keep cal/mag ratio at 7-10/1. This is best accomplished by getting calcium into the soil.
Foliar sprays work by feeding microbes at the roots, NOT by getting NPK to the leaves. If your soil is mineralized and the biota is happy and active.
I'm experimenting with different forms of nitrogen and changing the ionic balance in the soil. After talking to the guys in lab coats they were talking about different forms of nitrates so taking what they shared with me I have been experimenting.
Nitrates are readily available to the plant, but they also leach out of the soil easily with watering. Ammoniacal nitrogen (NH4) is different. It has a positive charge, whereas the nitrate (NO3) has a negative charge. Cation is positive, Anion is negative.
NH4 is captured by particles in the soil and are stored there until the roots and mycorrhizae on the roots break them loose and feed them to the plant.
When you feed with very lightly cationic forms of nitrogen, like Ammonium sulfate, ammonium phosphate, you get these cations and it stimulates reproductive growth from the plant. So far I have had best results feeding the cationic drench at 2 weeks and 5 weeks during bloom. Heavy feedings of cationic drenches produced negatives results and lower yield
I do this to rev them up just before bud set helps them explode in my room and they are much frostier to boot...I like it.
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budrunners
Active member
I can put up pictures but really its all about more LOUD complex smells, LOUD complex taste and complex medication that a person experiences. My buds dont looks any different any any other properly grown bud. Its the taste , smell and medication that makes the difference. I have the same mom ( tahoe og x deep chunk x critical mass ) for the last 6 years and now she is just ridiculous in all aspects.
I believe MrSterling is on the money. Optimal plant health is the way to go; how to get there is what's debatable.
I definitely would not stop using kelp as it does amazing things for my plants.
'Nice.. And its your 5th post.. Welcome!! I totally agree with this statement. Optimal health is the ultimate goal.I believe MrSterling is on the money. Optimal plant health is the way to go; how to get there is what's debatable.
You have stated your regimen. I would have more confidence with seeing some of the outcomes of these said regiments. Pics speak volumes.
I am not knocking the brix method. I just want to see some results from it.
Kelp
Has already proven itself in my stable of nutrition..
Edit:mr.s' grammar/spelling edit strikes again.
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Thanks, I've been a member on IC since it first opened (and OG before that). I just opened a new account for security reasons. Fortunately I am now legal.
Like a healthy individual, a healthy plant will be stronger, larger, more vigorous and better able to fight off disease and infection. The holistic approach to health is always the best way to go.
budrunners
Active member
I will post up some pics later today
C
CheifnBud2
Tuned In.
Today I was talking with a guy that runs a local farm. They utilize the methods advocated by Dan Kitteredge from the Bionutrient Food Association which are the same basic principles outlines in this thread; high brix levels, et al. I just visited them today, and asked about the 50lb bags of bone char I saw lying in the parking lot that had just been delivered. He started spewing some really intense info about "female minerals" and electrical conductivity, about different forms of phosphorous...
Now I spend most of my time reading about soil science, and I had no clue what the hell this guy was talking about. I can only imagine what Joe Six Pack would be able to derive from his rigmarole... He was talking about plant skeletons, ions moving around really fast, potassium to phosphorous levels, and some other stuff I just can't remember... He told me I didn't need the bone char for my "peppers", which is what I told him I was growing, because it was for use on greens... He tried to sell me on a dusty old pail of "nutrient dense" fertilizer with SRP... I didn't end up with the bone char...
For me the real test was taking a walk around and looking at the plants he had growing. They didn't seem to be "resisting disease" at the rate one might hope. Not that he had a ton of sickly plants, don't get me wrong, but I was not thrown aback by the health and vigor I would expect to see from applying rocket science grade info to a garden.
Now I spend most of my time reading about soil science, and I had no clue what the hell this guy was talking about. I can only imagine what Joe Six Pack would be able to derive from his rigmarole... He was talking about plant skeletons, ions moving around really fast, potassium to phosphorous levels, and some other stuff I just can't remember... He told me I didn't need the bone char for my "peppers", which is what I told him I was growing, because it was for use on greens... He tried to sell me on a dusty old pail of "nutrient dense" fertilizer with SRP... I didn't end up with the bone char...
For me the real test was taking a walk around and looking at the plants he had growing. They didn't seem to be "resisting disease" at the rate one might hope. Not that he had a ton of sickly plants, don't get me wrong, but I was not thrown aback by the health and vigor I would expect to see from applying rocket science grade info to a garden.
budrunners
Active member
Its the outcome of the farmers end result that makes a difference to visually say his crop looked alright is one thing but its how well the end product taste, smells is another subject that makes THE difference.
budrunners
Active member
Are you testing in the 16-19 brix range with indoor plants? If so, hats off to you. I normally stay around 12 indoors. BTW, nice looking flowers
budrunners
Active member
yes indoors
B
BugJar
I think there is certainly something to the organic high brix methods.
It can be nice to have a specific focus instead of general ones.
a few questions that i'm sure we are all curious about.
kelp and molasses? seems counter intuative in a few ways BUT just wondering what the deal is.
It is obvious that dextrose is a simpler sugar and that would lead to a quicker conversion but is that the only reason? I'm quite interested to know
kelp is obviously widely loved so what evidence have you seen on it impacting brix levels?
It can be nice to have a specific focus instead of general ones.
a few questions that i'm sure we are all curious about.
kelp and molasses? seems counter intuative in a few ways BUT just wondering what the deal is.
It is obvious that dextrose is a simpler sugar and that would lead to a quicker conversion but is that the only reason? I'm quite interested to know
kelp is obviously widely loved so what evidence have you seen on it impacting brix levels?
M
MrSterling
Molasses supplies iron as well as food for the microherd. In my mind it lets me put my thumb on the scales of equilibrium to keep the herd running well fed. Kelp offers a ton of nutrients and a bunch of secondary metabolites that I don't know enough about but will look into it now.
The only evidence I have is the producer of Brix Mix's use of maxicrop and the phenomenal results most of its users in the big plante thread have had with it.
The only evidence I have is the producer of Brix Mix's use of maxicrop and the phenomenal results most of its users in the big plante thread have had with it.
budrunners
Active member
Both molasses and kelp are high in potassium, the lab guys advised low levels of it not elimanate it to obtain higher brix, they recommend using kelp and molasses just sparingly at soil level. Foliar using. Amaze and PGR which is pure kelp is best along with dextrose. As i have been told too much molasses makes the soil slodiers lazy, give yhem just enough to keep them happy so they can still chomp and break down other needed amended nuted.
