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H3ad goes Coco

Nebulae

New member
H3ad is the man!

H3ad is the man!

This formula and thread has been full of great information. You are one smart person who has helped a LOT of people, H3ad, (as seen in this forum). If you ever change things up and try a new nutrient line out, I would love to see any of your formulas! You are very smart in an area that I'm trying to improve my knowledge in. I just wanted to say thanks for starting all of this, H3ad, and to everyone who contributed to this thread over time.
 

Dr. J

Member
Hey all! I’m hoping someone can help out with the issue I’m having. My tap water is 280 ppms so I’m adding and in this order 1ml/silica, 1/ml cal mag, 6/micro, 9/bloom and growth is really stunted on some plants. Very red/purple stems, almost looks like nitrogen burn(crispy tips on the fan leaves and the leaves are dark green). I believe it’s probably my tap, I’ve been using it forever and it seems this run everything’s going to shit!
 

Miraculous Meds

Well-known member
Hey all! I’m hoping someone can help out with the issue I’m having. My tap water is 280 ppms so I’m adding and in this order 1ml/silica, 1/ml cal mag, 6/micro, 9/bloom and growth is really stunted on some plants. Very red/purple stems, almost looks like nitrogen burn(crispy tips on the fan leaves and the leaves are dark green). I believe it’s probably my tap, I’ve been using it forever and it seems this run everything’s going to shit!



Flush thru and check your run off water. Its probably high and you need to flush thru till your coming out almost what your putting in. then you will know for sure that its not salt build up or dry medium causing cec problems. the 6/9 comes out about 1.2ec, with your already .55ec tap water, that will make your starting solution 1.75ec. So your run off water should never reach over 1.8ec, or with your tap, 2.35ec. I consider 280ppm too high, and would use ro water, and 1/2 tap water so your starting solution is down to 140. Also make sure your starting ph going in is between 5.8 and 6.2. the cal mag and silica at that strength probably are ok, but I would drop them as you don't need them, and the silica could be bringing your ph up a tiny bit. Not a problem unless your starting tap water is high bicarbonate, keeping your ph too high possibly.


Likey the case here is the medium started out too high salt content, or was too dry, and the cec was not buffered properly to start. It takes quite a while for recovery, but if this is the case, make sure you get good run off and don't let the plants dry between waterings, unless your in the transplanting stage.


By the way dark green leaves, and crispy tips is an indication of too much N and or salt build up.
 

Dr. J

Member
Flush thru and check your run off water. Its probably high and you need to flush thru till your coming out almost what your putting in. then you will know for sure that its not salt build up or dry medium causing cec problems. the 6/9 comes out about 1.2ec, with your already .55ec tap water, that will make your starting solution 1.75ec. So your run off water should never reach over 1.8ec, or with your tap, 2.35ec. I consider 280ppm too high, and would use ro water, and 1/2 tap water so your starting solution is down to 140. Also make sure your starting ph going in is between 5.8 and 6.2. the cal mag and silica at that strength probably are ok, but I would drop them as you don't need them, and the silica could be bringing your ph up a tiny bit. Not a problem unless your starting tap water is high bicarbonate, keeping your ph too high possibly.


Likey the case here is the medium started out too high salt content, or was too dry, and the cec was not buffered properly to start. It takes quite a while for recovery, but if this is the case, make sure you get good run off and don't let the plants dry between waterings, unless your in the transplanting stage.


By the way dark green leaves, and crispy tips is an indication of too much N and or salt build up.


Thanks for the response amigo! Just a little confused, so are you saying the 1.2ec is with the 6/9 with RO, and if I add my tap it shouldn’t exceed 1.8, but what’s the 2.35 ec? It’s sounding like maybe both to much nitrogen and salt build up! Ill keep flushing till the run offs looking good! Thanks for the help bud always appreciated!
 

Miraculous Meds

Well-known member
Thanks for the response amigo! Just a little confused, so are you saying the 1.2ec is with the 6/9 with RO, and if I add my tap it shouldn’t exceed 1.8, but what’s the 2.35 ec? It’s sounding like maybe both to much nitrogen and salt build up! Ill keep flushing till the run offs looking good! Thanks for the help bud always appreciated!



1.2ec is what this 6/9 comes out to in ro water at 5.9ph, for me at least. 600ppm on a 500 scale, or 840 ppm on a 700 scale. Its all the same, 1.2ec.


Your water is 280ppm, say its on a 500 scale, then its .55ec roughly. For this purpose, I guess it doesn't matter too much if its on a 500 or 700 scale. that's just the conversion from ec to whatever meter you have x whatever scale. they are usually x 500 or 700.


For this purpose im trying to explain that your base nutrient on a 500 scale would be 600ppm (1.2ec). So if you add your water ppm of 280, the total should be 880ppm. In this scenario im suggesting to not go over 300ppm more salt content, so not more than 1180, before flushing, or watering more often so not to build up to this level.


If you used 1/2 tap 1/2 ro, your water would be 140ppm starting, then add your base nutes at 600ppm, so the total now will be 740ppm. In this scenario, not going over 300 extra ppm of salt build up would be not going over 1040ppm.


Or in ro water and 6/9, you will be at 600ppm starting, so don't go over 900 ppm on your run off.


Im basing the run off limit on suggestions by djm, who was watering little, to no run off, but checking every few weeks. In my system, I have too much air flow, so I have to water more or my medium dries out and I get salt build up.
 

Dr. J

Member
1.2ec is what this 6/9 comes out to in ro water at 5.9ph, for me at least. 600ppm on a 500 scale, or 840 ppm on a 700 scale. Its all the same, 1.2ec.


Your water is 280ppm, say its on a 500 scale, then its .55ec roughly. For this purpose, I guess it doesn't matter too much if its on a 500 or 700 scale. that's just the conversion from ec to whatever meter you have x whatever scale. they are usually x 500 or 700.


For this purpose im trying to explain that your base nutrient on a 500 scale would be 600ppm (1.2ec). So if you add your water ppm of 280, the total should be 880ppm. In this scenario im suggesting to not go over 300ppm more salt content, so not more than 1180, before flushing, or watering more often so not to build up to this level.


If you used 1/2 tap 1/2 ro, your water would be 140ppm starting, then add your base nutes at 600ppm, so the total now will be 740ppm. In this scenario, not going over 300 extra ppm of salt build up would be not going over 1040ppm.


Or in ro water and 6/9, you will be at 600ppm starting, so don't go over 900 ppm on your run off.


Im basing the run off limit on suggestions by djm, who was watering little, to no run off, but checking every few weeks. In my system, I have too much air flow, so I have to water more or my medium dries out and I get salt build up.

Ahhhh I see! Cool my brotha thanks for clearing that up much appreciated! Geez I checked the run off and it’s ranges a little from tray to tray, but holy smokes it’s about 1400-1500 coming out! Going to flush, flush, and flush some more and ordered an ro unit! Thanks again!
 

Dr. J

Member
Flush thru and check your run off water. Its probably high and you need to flush thru till your coming out almost what your putting in. then you will know for sure that its not salt build up or dry medium causing cec problems. the 6/9 comes out about 1.2ec, with your already .55ec tap water, that will make your starting solution 1.75ec. So your run off water should never reach over 1.8ec, or with your tap, 2.35ec. I consider 280ppm too high, and would use ro water, and 1/2 tap water so your starting solution is down to 140. Also make sure your starting ph going in is between 5.8 and 6.2. the cal mag and silica at that strength probably are ok, but I would drop them as you don't need them, and the silica could be bringing your ph up a tiny bit. Not a problem unless your starting tap water is high bicarbonate, keeping your ph too high possibly.


Likey the case here is the medium started out too high salt content, or was too dry, and the cec was not buffered properly to start. It takes quite a while for recovery, but if this is the case, make sure you get good run off and don't let the plants dry between waterings, unless your in the transplanting stage.


By the way dark green leaves, and crispy tips is an indication of too much N and or salt build up.


When run off is this high could you flush with phd to water? I’ve heard before it’s not good to flush with straight ro in coco? Just wondering since the run offs so high? Thanks again!
 

Miraculous Meds

Well-known member
Stick with at least .6 ec, or 300ppm base nutes. That way you dont break the cec bond when done flushing. Also some ppm in water effectively pulls more salt out of the medium than plain water.
 

buzztofly

New member
hello, to start sorry for my english I am french is using google translate. The method 6/9 interests me a lot but is not known in my country so many questions arise for me because I'm not sure I have all understood 1) Is the 6: 9 ratio used for growth at the end of flowering? it seems to me that yes but I may be missing something
  • Calcium 123,54
  • Magnesium 3,71
  • Bicarbonates 313,78
  • Dureté (En °F) 31,04
  • Potassium 1,56
  • Fluor 0,08
  • Chlorures 29,95
  • Sodium 14,41
is it still possible to use this method? if yes, are there any changes? thank you for the time that you grant me goodbye
 

buzztofly

New member
hello, to start sorry for my english I am french is using google translate. The method 6/9 interests me a lot but is not known in my country so many questions arise for me because I'm not sure I have all understood

1) Is the 6: 9 ratio used for growth at the end of flowering? it seems to me that yes but I may be missing something

2) the water at home is very hard here is its composition

  • Calcium 123,54
  • Magnesium 3,71
  • Bicarbonates 313,78
  • Dureté (En °F) 31,04
  • Potassium 1,56
  • Fluor 0,08
  • Chlorures 29,95
  • Sodium 14,41

is it still possible to use this method? if yes, are there any changes? thank you for the time that you grant me goodbye
 

draztik

Well-known member
Veteran
hello, to start sorry for my english I am french is using google translate. The method 6/9 interests me a lot but is not known in my country so many questions arise for me because I'm not sure I have all understood

1) Is the 6: 9 ratio used for growth at the end of flowering? it seems to me that yes but I may be missing something

2) the water at home is very hard here is its composition

  • Calcium 123,54
  • Magnesium 3,71
  • Bicarbonates 313,78
  • Dureté (En °F) 31,04
  • Potassium 1,56
  • Fluor 0,08
  • Chlorures 29,95
  • Sodium 14,41

is it still possible to use this method? if yes, are there any changes? thank you for the time that you grant me goodbye
General Hydrponics makes a hardwater version of their Flora series. FloraMicro Hardwater and FloraBloom Hardwater.
 

buzztofly

New member
Hello, thank you very much for your answer and sorry to answer so late I no longer had internet (sometimes it feels like living in a cave in France xD).
I have invested in a system that produces water r/o so no more worries about that. But another problem arises to me when rereading the forum I came across something I hadn't expected GH and GHE don't have the same composition:
GHE flora micro and in 5-0-1 and GHE florabloom and in 0-5-4 apparently it would not be the same value in the USA. so I would have to adapt but value to micro 5ml and bloom 8ml for 3l (0.79 gal.us).
is this true or not? otherwise what would be the value I should use or is there a converter? if the answer has already been given please excuse me and please indicate me to or search.
thank you goodbye.
 

King Loki

New member
hey guys, I'm struggling a bit trying to get the 6/9 (1.5/2.25 per gallon) set up to work on my 3-week old plants I was at a quarter strength with a bit of calmag and I got nitrogen deficiencies so i Up'ed the formula to 50% and went 3/4.5 a gallon and got nitrogen toxicity

should I maybe try a 1/3 strength and see how they go at 2/3 per gallon ?? seem liek the only choice ...

or should i just shoot for an actual ppm and not worry about the amounts as long as the ratios are right ?
 
R

Rab.C

bro give it EC0.8 and watch here leaves the will tell you to up feed or lower it.
i have loads of problems and this is my first grow.
 

FJ2000

Active member
What is your base water? Are you adjusting pH to 5.8? What light are you using? How close is it? To much light can make the leaves curl down and look like to much N
Pure coco? Are you running your nutes once a day? How big of a container are they in?
This is my second grow/ both with H3ad and at 3 weeks from germ I was in 16oz cups, straight 6/9 in 100ppm base water feeding daily. Week 4 into 1 gallon and week 6 2 gallon and flower. They grow like monsters...
 

King Loki

New member
What is your base water? Are you adjusting pH to 5.8? What light are you using? How close is it? To much light can make the leaves curl down and look like too much N
Pure coco? Are you running your nutes once a day? How big of a container are they in?
This is my second grow/ both with H3ad and at 3 weeks from germ I was in 16oz cups, straight 6/9 in 100ppm base water feeding daily. Week 4 into 1 gallon and week 6 2 gallon and flower. They grow like monsters...

my base water is 250ppm I adjust to 5.8 after nutes have gone into the water

I'm running 40% perlite 60% coco I was watering once per day but a few people told me because they are small to let them dry a little so their roots fill the container, so I wait like a day and a half between feeding I have 2 plants in 10L pots and 2 plants in 12L pots

maybe my pots are to big ?

I try and feed them about 650ppm - 750 ppm .. i know that if i put a liter and a half though the pots i get almost a liter back out which seems liek alot of run off right ?

Ill go and research the light stress issue you think might be a cause too
 

King Loki

New member
What is your base water? Are you adjusting pH to 5.8? What light are you using? How close is it? To much light can make the leaves curl down and look like to much N
Pure coco? Are you running your nutes once a day? How big of a container are they in?
This is my second grow/ both with H3ad and at 3 weeks from germ I was in 16oz cups, straight 6/9 in 100ppm base water feeding daily. Week 4 into 1 gallon and week 6 2 gallon and flower. They grow like monsters...
this is what they look like ... you can see the plants on the right were showing signs of nitrogen deficiency so i up'ed the 6/9 formula to 50% from 25% and got nitrogen toxicity and a minuscule amount of tip burn on a few leaves ... I flushed them with a double dose of 500ppm solution last night and they look good this morning.

now the 2 plants on the right are a different strain ... could it be that these 2 plants need different amounts of nutes? although the plants on the right also showed signs of slight nitrogen toxicity after the 50% also.

there is no way these plants would be able to take the full 6/9 .. it would fry them
 

King Loki

New member
my picture didn't show up for some reason
 

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