Guerilla Underground Thread

[marmarb]

Anyone have success with using a diy promix? Last yr used bumper crop organic soil pretty exspensive though looking to cut it 30/50/20.
Soil peat moss perlite.

 

[Rodehazrd]

Anyone have success with using a diy promix? Last yr used bumper crop organic soil pretty exspensive though looking to cut it 30/50/20.
Soil peat moss perlite.

I use a mix put up by budrunner

 

[MountainBudz]

So I have a couple questions.. as I grew up in a completely different area that was mostly desert, I feel like I'm out of place somewhat in the woods. I'm trying to look for rich soil spots by observing the ground vegetation. Is there a method people use for this our am I crazy and over thinking this? I'm assuming the better spots would be where medium sized bushes/ growth is concentrated. Is there any good resources on here to identify these areas or is it just guesswork without lab tests on the soil? Also what are some good ways to identify weak/ dying trees. I had two fall in a late storm last year and destroyed a couple plants, while I know it coulda been a freak accident I'm just trying to give myself a good chance of success this season and I'm trying to learn. Any help is much appreciated

Hey Dday... I have never once checked the pH of soil in any area I have grown in, in the last 16 years. But I do live in Kentucky and we are blessed with the perfect natural medium here. However I know that not everywhere is "perfect", just a figure of speech.

Anyway what I do, and recommend you do is simply add dolomite lime to your grow holes. Most farm supply, feed stores, hardware stores, you can get 50lb bags of dolomite lime for as little as 9 to 12 bucks. This will help stabilize and buffer your pH. Gypsum is another option as well, but I prefer the dolomite.

Throw that in and mix it up real good while you are prepping your grounds, at least a few weeks before you plant. I usually add a cup or two per hole depending on the size of the hole I am working with. Now This is very important on how much pro mix you add to your holes, the more pro mix or peat based medium you put into your holes, the more you have to water. In California and such this is good as you can grow in your back yard and you can water whenever you please... But in a guerilla grow, you want a loose medium but you don't want a dominant loose medium. I always throw water polymer crystals in my mix as well, I dont pre charge them because they pull the moisture from the soil quickly and fill up within a couple days. One trick I have learned in the past, and my particular method is do your amending and dig up your holes real well. Do the water polymers as your final step. Once you got the holes dug out and mixed real good lay your water crystals on top of the soil... Come back in a couple of days and you will find that the morning dew has completely charged them. Then turn your soil, and mix it real well. Works every time.

I always measure out about 5 gallons worth of pro-mix, throw in a contractor trash bag, and haul that to each hole I dig. I make sure a lot of it is mixed more so in the center area of the hole rather then the outside, if I am planting small plants. This helps give the roots a lighter mix to grow out into, which will give you a faster start in early veg. That is what you want... Once the plant starts putting on little size and the roots get well established, then it will grow on into the heavier "native"/pro-mix" part of the hole.

I also like to walk around and scoop up the top 2 inches of the rich top layer of composted leaves/twigs/grass etc and throw into my holes as well. I love finding places with old logs and fallen trees that have decomposed and leaves that rich, moist, black material beneath them. That is some good stuff. I like to break it down as much as possible, and leave chunks too as these hold moisture very well.

If you do a 30 to 40% promix to 70 to 60% native earth mix, you will never have to water your plants unless you just wanna supplement them. As long as you are getting a few rains here and there, they will survive.

As far as the tree a falling go, just plant on the opposite side of where the tree is leaning?

 

[Kaskadian]

Hey MountainBudz, I grew in Northern Kentucky for a handful of years. Excellent climate for it, and lots of beautiful rolling hills to traverse. I don’t miss the ticks, but I definitely miss Kentucky.

Looking forward to seeing what you do this season!

 

[MountainBudz]

By the way folks... This year I am gonna do a little experiment that might save me from hauling so many bales into the mountains and hollars...

I am gonna try amending with coco coir bricks as well. I known it will work, but I am gonna experiment just how "well" it works for myself personally..

I have found what may work for one, may or may not at all work for the other. Its all about skill ... Lol

 

[MountainBudz]

Hey MountainBudz, I grew in Northern Kentucky for a handful of years. Excellent climate for it, and lots of beautiful rolling hills to traverse. I don’t miss the ticks, but I definitely miss Kentucky.

Looking forward to seeing what you do this season!

Howdy Kaskadian, welcome to the thread!

Yeah, I have been to a lot of places in my life, lived in California for a few years as well, but i was born and raised here. I have yet to find a better climate for growing marijuana. The only issue here, absolute only is the humidity in mid to late flower. In the past few years I have seen more bud rot then I ever imagined in my entire life. Not just me, but everyone around here...

I purchased a stupidly expensive product last year called Flint made by Bayer... Its works. The only spray it once and forget it formula, easy peasy thing that works. I have tried everything from organic to chemicals and nothing compare a to Flint.

I recommend it, just don't use it in late flower.

And yeah man the ticks are ridiculous... They are worse now than they ever have been. These mild winters are not doing any damage to them is the reason. That and just like any other organism, they are just over populating and brining new diseases along with them.

I got infected with Lyme from doing my line of work from a deer rock 2 years ago. Did not get prompt treatment and now I suffer with it and always will. But that doesn't keep me from pushing myself.

Where do you reside now? What state?

 

[Kaskadian]

Howdy Kaskadian, welcome to the thread!

Yeah, I have been to a lot of places in my life, lived in California for a few years as well, but i was born and raised here. I have yet to find a better climate for growing marijuana. The only issue here, absolute only is the humidity in mid to late flower. In the past few years I have seen more bud rot then I ever imagined in my entire life. Not just me, but everyone around here...

I purchased a stupidly expensive product last year called Flint made by Bayer... Its works. The only spray it once and forget it formula, easy peasy thing that works. I have tried everything from organic to chemicals and nothing compare a to Flint.

I recommend it, just don't use it in late flower.

And yeah man the ticks are ridiculous... They are worse now than they ever have been. These mild winters are not doing any damage to them is the reason. That and just like any other organism, they are just over populating and brining new diseases along with them.

I got infected with Lyme from doing my line of work from a deer rock 2 years ago. Did not get prompt treatment and now I suffer with it and always will. But that doesn't keep me from pushing myself.

Where do you reside now? What state?

Hey brother appreciate the advice regarding Flint — I’ll have to check that out.

I remember the humidity well! I lived near the Ohio river and remember those days in the high 90’s with 90%+ humidity. I also experienced some rot as well which I guess shouldn’t be surprising with humidity that high!

I was living back there in 2008/2009 when we had that monster ice storm. Just about every year I was there besides that was super mild and each summer I’d come out of the woods with dozens of ticks either already attached to me or crawling on my jeans. I hate those bastards... they’d find a way to latch on just walking through the grass!

I’m back home in my native state of Oregon now. I’ve been looking at moving back to ol’ Kentucky, I miss being able to live near the city but still own a nice chunk of land. Out here that’s a luxury that’s hard to afford unless you live in the middle of nowhere unfortunately. I had just shy of 20 acres outside of Louisville with a 20 minute commute to the city... definitely miss that. If it wasn’t for work I’d have never left in the first place.

Cheers bro!

 

[leafwilson]

hi people, thanks for the great thread! i've read it all and it's full of useful info. is Flint safe? i checked the details on amazon and it says "systemic for ornamental plants". is it safe to use on plants destined to human consumption? thanks

 

[leafwilson]

on the bayer site, it says "stop using 35 days before harvest on grapes, 28 days on rice, 14 days on apples, 3 days on melons, cucumbers etc"

 

[MountainBudz]

Its safe. The toxicity is super super low. It will stay in plants for around 20 days.

 

[Rodehazrd]

Hey Dday... I have never once checked the pH of soil in any area I have grown in, in the last 16 years. But I do live in Kentucky and we are blessed with the perfect natural medium here. However I know that not everywhere is "perfect", just a figure of speech.

Anyway what I do, and recommend you do is simply add dolomite lime to your grow holes. Most farm supply, feed stores, hardware stores, you can get 50lb bags of dolomite lime for as little as 9 to 12 bucks. This will help stabilize and buffer your pH. Gypsum is another option as well, but I prefer the dolomite.

Throw that in and mix it up real good while you are prepping your grounds, at least a few weeks before you plant. I usually add a cup or two per hole depending on the size of the hole I am working with. Now This is very important on how much pro mix you add to your holes, the more pro mix or peat based medium you put into your holes, the more you have to water. In California and such this is good as you can grow in your back yard and you can water whenever you please... But in a guerilla grow, you want a loose medium but you don't want a dominant loose medium. I always throw water polymer crystals in my mix as well, I dont pre charge them because they pull the moisture from the soil quickly and fill up within a couple days. One trick I have learned in the past, and my particular method is do your amending and dig up your holes real well. Do the water polymers as your final step. Once you got the holes dug out and mixed real good lay your water crystals on top of the soil... Come back in a couple of days and you will find that the morning dew has completely charged them. Then turn your soil, and mix it real well. Works every time.

I always measure out about 5 gallons worth of pro-mix, throw in a contractor trash bag, and haul that to each hole I dig. I make sure a lot of it is mixed more so in the center area of the hole rather then the outside, if I am planting small plants. This helps give the roots a lighter mix to grow out into, which will give you a faster start in early veg. That is what you want... Once the plant starts putting on little size and the roots get well established, then it will grow on into the heavier "native"/pro-mix" part of the hole.

I also like to walk around and scoop up the top 2 inches of the rich top layer of composted leaves/twigs/grass etc and throw into my holes as well. I love finding places with old logs and fallen trees that have decomposed and leaves that rich, moist, black material beneath them. That is some good stuff. I like to break it down as much as possible, and leave chunks too as these hold moisture very well.

If you do a 30 to 40% promix to 70 to 60% native earth mix, you will never have to water your plants unless you just wanna supplement them. As long as you are getting a few rains here and there, they will survive.

As far as the tree a falling go, just plant on the opposite side of where the tree is leaning?

I didn't know gypsum buffers ph I thought calcium sulfate was more of a neutral ph. I use it to help break up clay and add calcium but always use the calcium carbonate and rely on the biota for ph control can you point me to some research? always looking to learn more about what goes on underground with the plants I love.

 

[MountainBudz]

I didn't know gypsum buffers ph I thought calcium sulfate was more of a neutral ph. I use it to help break up clay and add calcium but always use the calcium carbonate and rely on the biota for ph control can you point me to some research? always looking to learn more about what goes on underground with the plants I love.

https://www.lawn-care-academy.com/soil-pH.html

It doesn't do much as far as pH is concerned.

 

[TychoMonolyth]

...
Once you got the holes dug out and mixed real good lay your water crystals on top of the soil... Come back in a couple of days and you will find that the morning dew has completely charged them. Then turn your soil, and mix it real well. Works every time.
...

Nice. And they won't push your plants out of the ground after a hard rain. It's easy to use too much.

 

[Rodehazrd]

https://www.lawn-care-academy.com/soil-pH.html

It doesn't do much as far as pH is concerned.

thanks thats a nice site simple direct answers

 

[leafwilson]

Its safe. The toxicity is super super low. It will stay in plants for around 20 days.

thanks, good to know!

 

[Seedma]

Only 20 days? R u sure?

 

[TychoMonolyth]

Only 20 days? R u sure?

No he's not.

Here's the corporate contaminates.

Do what you want, but be aware that if you do use it, you're in the same league as them. Like it or not.

I get around imperfections by doubling my planned crop and doing my homework.

 

[MountainBudz]

Flint has a very low toxicity rate. The only real listed warning to humans, is that over time you may or may not develop allergic skin rashes to it. Trifloxystrobin is nowhere near as toxic as myclobutanil and even many organic products as well. If I get a drop of neem oil on me, it burns like hell and I break out. If Flint drifts on me, I'm fine.

Im not concerned about Flint being in my flowers, even though still I don't spray after mid flower. I smoke cigarettes... And in each cigarette I smoke is at least over 50 different chemicals and and that one cigarette is worse than an entire plant soaked in Flint a day before harvest.

I don't freak out that much over the pesticides and fungicides. Use them smart and do your timing correctly and you will be fine. Been doing this for over 16 years and back in the day used way harsher chemicals than that and I am absolutely fine and so is everyone else that smokes my products... Not saying I am a chem enthusiast and use the hell out of chemicals.. But what I am saying is don't worry about a little trace amount of Flint being on your buds...

 

[MountainBudz]

No he's not.

Here's the corporate contaminates.
View Image

Do what you want, but be aware that if you do use it, you're in the same league as them. Like it or not.

I get around imperfections by doubling my planned crop and doing my homework.

Yea I am...

Actually, I'm sorry I actually was wrong. Less than 20 days. Even better eh?







As you can see... The toxicity rate is extremely low on Flint, as well.

 

[MountainBudz]

Also I don't get why every one says Flint is systemic. Its not, barely any at all makes inside the plants vascular system...

Compass (trifloxystrobin) was originally developed and marketed by Novartis Crop Protection. With the merger of Novartis and Zeneca last year, Compass was sold (factory and all) to Bayer. Olympic Horticultural Products now markets Compass to our industry. Movement of trifloxystrobin is described as mesostemic to indicate both protectant and curative capacity. In this case, the active ingredient “penetrates the plant tissue, has laminar activity, but there is little or no transport within the vascular system of the plant.”

You can read further if you wanna click this link. It works on the tissue, not the vascular system.

https://gpnmag.com/article/strobilurn-fungicides-update/