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Guerilla Underground Thread

MountainBudz

⛽🦨 Kinebud and Heirloom Preservationist! 🦨 ⛽
Good to see you back mb! Gonna be watching this year for sure ��good luck with the monsters bro

Thank's bud, hopefully the budgets and funds of the cannabis eradication units and agency's around here are cut way back this year. Last year I was expecting lots of flyovers, and even though we had a few, they were at least 50% less than last year. Honestly I could have gotten away with growing patches last year if I wanted to. I could have got by with a handful.

I plan on getting things started by the end of this month. I have been waiting on "someone's name I cannot mention's" Sugar Punch to be back in stock. One of the best producing, potent, disease and mold resistant, weather resitant, plants I have ever grown outdoor to date.

I have missed you guys!

:tiphat:
 

MountainBudz

⛽🦨 Kinebud and Heirloom Preservationist! 🦨 ⛽
Once I get everything in gear, I shall have this thread rolling good this year. Much more so than last. I plan on providing much more information and photos this year, with more tips and kinks laid out as well.

That is what I planned for this thread to be, so I'm gonna make it serve its purpose as I intended. Maybe one day it will be stickied... And also hoping to bring more guerilla growers out of the wood works as well to join in with us!
 

Dday391

Member
Yes! I really enjoy this type of thread. We as guerrillas need an outlet to shed a bit of the secrecy and get answers from others that know what's good. I literally read every page of the M.o.g in here and I was wishing there was something of that nature to get answers for those typesof situations now. I hope this thread does get a sticky eventually. There should be an outlet for guerilla knowledge lol
 

DuskrayTroubador

Well-known member
Veteran
How do you guys feel about watering with pond water?

I've never done it, but I know humans are only supposed to drink from running water, never still water. Is still water a concern when it comes to plants? I assume not, but thought it might be a good idea to ask.
 

marmarb

Well-known member
Veteran
Completed my first true g grow. In the northeast had to chop early due to mold. Still pulled 2 units of usable flowers. Due to bad trim job ended up getting stuck with 1.5 lbs ended up turning into butter/wax/kief. Looking for strains that will finish by mid September.
 

TychoMonolyth

Boreal Curing
Completed my first true g grow. In the northeast had to chop early due to mold. Still pulled 2 units of usable flowers. Due to bad trim job ended up getting stuck with 1.5 lbs ended up turning into butter/wax/kief. Looking for strains that will finish by mid September.

There's lots. For sativas try a superAuto. They finish late August.
 

Easy7

Active member
Veteran
It's hard to find spots with all day aun around here. They usually fly over the swamps. Lot's of little breaks in forests that get good under growth. Not all day sun but enough to get an acceptable plant.

They can't fly over every location so they usually rely on past years data and current intel. It's not the land of plenty in these parts, unless you are into brick weed. Keeps prices sky high. Seen folks pay $50 1/8th for seedless brick.

Too many houses, too much corn and soy. Everyones a narc or wants to be a hero. Churches on every street. All brainwashed do gooders.
 

TychoMonolyth

Boreal Curing
It's hard to find spots with all day aun around here. They usually fly over the swamps. Lot's of little breaks in forests that get good under growth. Not all day sun but enough to get an acceptable plant.

They can't fly over every location so they usually rely on past years data and current intel. It's not the land of plenty in these parts, unless you are into brick weed. Keeps prices sky high. Seen folks pay $50 1/8th for seedless brick.

Too many houses, too much corn and soy. Everyones a narc or wants to be a hero. Churches on every street. All brainwashed do gooders.

If you get a low odour strain you should aim for drainage ditches between fields. Around eastern Ontario ditches are 6-12 feet deep and are usually moist all summer.
 

Easy7

Active member
Veteran
Drift from sprays and no cover plants.

I have spots that are 80% perfect a bit close. Hoping to modify the area. The social climate is a long shot. Couldn't hide much this close. There are areas a bit further that could squeeze in some major harvests. Problem is people.

You would think they as a people cannot exist with somone using plants and fungi. Like there society cannot continue or is heavily damaged from a damn weed.
 

TychoMonolyth

Boreal Curing
Ah. I lost my first seedlings to over spray my first year. Lost about 100. Only had autos that year. Now I wait until the spray is done, then I move in. You only make that mistake once.
 

Easy7

Active member
Veteran
Big part of not geing greedy is accepting less full sun. 5 - 7 hours does ok. My veggies gotta take that too. But it gets by alright. Not winning awards but it's suffecient. Just gotta bush out or they out grow surrounding cover plants.
 

Dday391

Member
So I have a couple questions.. as I grew up in a completely different area that was mostly desert, I feel like I'm out of place somewhat in the woods. I'm trying to look for rich soil spots by observing the ground vegetation. Is there a method people use for this our am I crazy and over thinking this? I'm assuming the better spots would be where medium sized bushes/ growth is concentrated. Is there any good resources on here to identify these areas or is it just guesswork without lab tests on the soil? Also what are some good ways to identify weak/ dying trees. I had two fall in a late storm last year and destroyed a couple plants, while I know it coulda been a freak accident I'm just trying to give myself a good chance of success this season and I'm trying to learn. Any help is much appreciated
 

TychoMonolyth

Boreal Curing
So I have a couple questions.. as I grew up in a completely different area that was mostly desert, I feel like I'm out of place somewhat in the woods. I'm trying to look for rich soil spots by observing the ground vegetation. Is there a method people use for this our am I crazy and over thinking this? I'm assuming the better spots would be where medium sized bushes/ growth is concentrated. Is there any good resources on here to identify these areas or is it just guesswork without lab tests on the soil? Also what are some good ways to identify weak/ dying trees. I had two fall in a late storm last year and destroyed a couple plants, while I know it coulda been a freak accident I'm just trying to give myself a good chance of success this season and I'm trying to learn. Any help is much appreciated

Find out the names of the plants you see in an interesting area. I think there's a phone application that let's you take a picture of a leaf and identify it. Then just lookup, the pH for that plant. For example, I like planting autos in raspberry patches because the pH is perfect. You can also just use a shove and dig down and look for a nice dark soil. Is there clay? Is it covered in leaves? There's lots to look at even if you were born there.
 

Rodehazrd

Well-known member
So I have a couple questions.. as I grew up in a completely different area that was mostly desert, I feel like I'm out of place somewhat in the woods. I'm trying to look for rich soil spots by observing the ground vegetation. Is there a method people use for this our am I crazy and over thinking this? I'm assuming the better spots would be where medium sized bushes/ growth is concentrated. Is there any good resources on here to identify these areas or is it just guesswork without lab tests on the soil? Also what are some good ways to identify weak/ dying trees. I had two fall in a late storm last year and destroyed a couple plants, while I know it coulda been a freak accident I'm just trying to give myself a good chance of success this season and I'm trying to learn. Any help is much appreciated
I would doubt you find a fertile spot with much privacy. Look for Polk plants they need pretty good soil and moisture, provide good cover, and are easily bent over. I would plan on carrying a bag of Happy Frog or some such enrichment. Some bag soils have gel to hold water better if you fear the drought. My issue has been root rot in clay hillsides. I dug holes in the clay and didn't give enough drainage in the bottom. Never lost a plant to a dry year when it got a decent start of roots
Good luck and consider indoor if you cant work it out safely outdoors. Country people notice everything and watering is tough if you walk far.:tiphat:
 

Dday391

Member
Thank you guys for the input. I'll look into that app tycho.a lot of the places I've tested in the past few summers have nice soil and good ground cover with decaying leaves and stuff. So I figured I was close.
 

hamstring

Well-known member
Veteran
So I have a couple questions.. as I grew up in a completely different area that was mostly desert, I feel like I'm out of place somewhat in the woods. I'm trying to look for rich soil spots by observing the ground vegetation. Is there a method people use for this our am I crazy and over thinking this? I'm assuming the better spots would be where medium sized bushes/ growth is concentrated. Is there any good resources on here to identify these areas or is it just guesswork without lab tests on the soil? Also what are some good ways to identify weak/ dying trees. I had two fall in a late storm last year and destroyed a couple plants, while I know it coulda been a freak accident I'm just trying to give myself a good chance of success this season and I'm trying to learn. Any help is much appreciated

If possible its always better to use the native resources you have around you. Don't lug anything more than you have to.

Forest soil tends to have a very shallow fertile top soil. I am from the midwest I look for lowlands. The soil is so fertile it looks black gold. In these areas there is no need to water and lots of native vegetation to help with security.

If possible use google earth to look for small creeks or rivers. They will lead to these lowlands and they usually have good sun .

The great thing about google earth is the built in compass for finding southernly sun. The ruler allows you to check distances for parking, bike riding etc.:tiphat:
 

TychoMonolyth

Boreal Curing
If possible its always better to use the native resources you have around you. Don't lug anything more than you have to.

Forest soil tends to have a very shallow fertile top soil. I am from the midwest I look for lowlands. The soil is so fertile it looks black gold. In these areas there is no need to water and lots of native vegetation to help with security.

If possible use google earth to look for small creeks or rivers. They will lead to these lowlands and they usually have good sun .

The great thing about google earth is the built in compass for finding southernly sun. The ruler allows you to check distances for parking, bike riding etc.:tiphat:

Ya ya. Google Earth is your friend. Make sure you use the timeline feature to see the area in all seasons. I also use it to discover hidden grow sites and clearings.
 

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