Guerilla subforum

[Barbanegra]

Most OD growers, 80% or more, will tell you the late finishers are the most mold prone but every once in awhile someone like yourself points out what I have seen too. The early strains, the worst for me was Shaman, are the most mold prone. I believe that’s because in my Midwest environment the humid hot days (dog days of summer) are right when these last week of august strains are in full bloom and susceptible to mold. Don’t get me wrong if it does nothing but rain in late Sept – early Oct you will have bud rot but not nearly as bad as late August. I have had whole plants covered in mold with no rain.

Love to see some comments pro and con on this phenomena.

My understanding is that the lower the temperature, the less conducive the conditions are for mold growth, so rain in August will do more damage, than rain in October the stage of bloom being the same. I'm in a place that has very high relative humidity in summer and have observed over the last years earlier plants molding more than later. I must say I've had quite beautiful autumns and truly shitty summers.

As to watering -> my response to people who ask me how I water my gardens is: plants that don't thrive on the rain they get, have no business growing in my garden. You start babying plants and giving them regular waterings and they stop taking care of themselves. I try to help with water retention. I've used crystals. I think that horse manure with straw helps. I make sure to mulch around the plants. Don't have them stand in bare soil. But that's it.

As I've said, my climate is benign. My soils are generally good.

 

[niceeven]

I like the idea. I mean, let's face it whatever the way we grow there always is some guerilla components in it. Yet the truth is that those who grow outside of their properties can face conditions that are specific to guérilla growing.

I have not been around on the site very long but one thing is clear to me: Things are moving somewhat. Reading the reports from last year where outdoor california bud prices seems to have taken a tumble outlines that the medical market is here to stay and perhaps that mean that more and more there could be emerging differences in between "outdoor" growing and 'guerilla growing".

Anyhow, one again, I like the idea.

 

[Scrappy-doo]

"Yes Definitely! - 86.21% "

The people have spoken. Let's do this!

 

[hamstring]

When I started growing in the bush I used to break my back carrying dozens of bales of soil into the bush to fill 8 gallon grow bags. Over time I realized a few things about this method;
-8 gallons of soil limits plant size
-black grow bags stick out like a sore thumb
-black grow bags get hot and fry the roots. They also dry out really quickly and require alot of watering, more than I can provide in the heat of summer.
This was an expensive method of growing and if the results weren't perfect, I was out alot of cash and was visiting the plot far too often to water everything.

After a few years of this nonsense it dawned on me that I was working against nature instead of with it; I was standing on top of mountains of great soil that just needed a little work to become viable. So I started digging holes, lots of them, and began amending the soil. I was still carrying in a couple bales of peat moss and bags of perlite to amend the holes, but I needed much less to grow good dope. The first year I tried this method I was using a mix of around 50% natural soil/35% peat/15% perlite and a cup of dolomite lime per 12 gallon hole. I had great results but my back was still sore every spring and I felt there must be a better way.

Now, I dig 12-15 gallon holes and pick out the rocks and roots. I add around a gallon of perlite and a cup of lime to each hole and mix it in really well to give good aeration and drainage all the way through and buffer the Ph.

I mix a shovel scoop (maybe .5 gallon) of peat moss into the top 6 inches of the hole which provides the clone or seedling an easy start to life.

Once the clone has grown past that first 6 inches of soil its roots are strong enough to push down into the natural soil amended with perlite.

Voila, 6-8oz plants all day every day and my back isn't wrecked!! I can amend 50 holes with one bale of peat moss ($7), one big bag of perlite ($20) and one bag of dolomite lime ($5). All told I've spent only $0.64 on each hole, made only two trips with amendments into the bush which leaves next to no trail and depending on your location and rainfall might not need many trips to water. I use Osmocote or similiar slow release plant food so I don't need to be visiting the patches all the time to feed and it's cheap!

Work smart not hard!!!

You learn something new every day.

I put a small amount of seed starting mix on top of the potting soil in my cold frames but never thought of using the peat moss in the top of each of my holes---Absolutely great pointer..

I predig all my holes and add slow release ferts 3-4weeks before planting. Then when I transplant my seedlings the soil has compacted somewhat nothing drastic but it could be affecting my growth for the first two weeks. I like the minimalist approach but I think this peat moss idea has brilliant possibilities and still qualifies under smart vs. hard work.
booyah to you clunk.

 

[hamstring]

My understanding is that the lower the temperature, the less conducive the conditions are for mold growth, so rain in August will do more damage, than rain in October the stage of bloom being the same.

I'm in a place that has very high relative humidity in summer and have observed over the last years earlier plants molding more than later. I must say I've had quite beautiful autumns and truly shitty summers.

As to watering -> my response to people who ask me how I water my gardens is: plants that don't thrive on the rain they get, have no business growing in my garden. You start babying plants and giving them regular waterings and they stop taking care of themselves. I try to help with water retention. I've used crystals. I think that horse manure with straw helps. I make sure to mulch around the plants. Don't have them stand in bare soil. But that's it.

As I've said, my climate is benign. My soils are generally good.

Barbanegra

Exactly what my opinion is once Oct rolls around and the temps drop mold is much less likely I have personally seen it when drying outdoors.

I cant tell you how many times i have read in many outdoor forums that mold is more likely in early to late Oct. I realize there are other reasons for picking early strains but for years guerillas have searched out earlier strains to combat mold.

I have always felt this was very misleading to fellow guerillas but it has been the standard answer for all the years I have been here and at OG.

I feel this is another bit of miss information but would love to hear others thoughts

 

[.clunk]

I predig all my holes and add slow release ferts 3-4weeks before planting. Then when I transplant my seedlings the soil has compacted somewhat nothing drastic but it could be affecting my growth for the first two weeks. I like the minimalist approach but I think this peat moss idea has brilliant possibilities and still qualifies under smart vs. hard work.
booyah to you clunk.

Even with the Peat Moss in the top 6 inches the soil does compact quite a bit between the time I dig the holes and the time I plant.

I forgot to mention that an important part of my regime is aerating the soil a little before planting. I use a Garden Claw type tool to aerate the top 6-8 inches of soil. It's quick, effective and the prongs only reach through the peat moss layer so I don't end up mixing the peat moss through the entire hole like I would if I turned everything over with a shovel again. Depending on how sore my back is I sometimes use a long trowel to just "stab" straight down into the soil below where I plant as well, this loosens up the natural soil a bit more.

 

[Jaymer]

memorable quotes

memorable quotes

"there is definitely something living back here"

 

[Alone]

Ive only done 1 guerilla grow and it was pretty succesfull except for the finishing time on the strain I grew out. DJ Shorts TBB bagseed. I used 20lb test fishing line wrapped around the bushes and trees and made a perimeter at 2 feet, 4 feet and 6 feet. All 6 plants were in 5 gallon paint buckets spray painted black.

I went to the spot once and there was a huge buck snorting away like a wildman as if it was so mad it couldnt get to my BB beauties. They did smell good from 20 feet away. LOL But it kept them away from my precious investment. I had to bring them inside to finish on Oct. 21 because it was getting much to frosty and they had 3 weeks to go. No way they would have been fine until Nov 15.

This is why I think its important to not plant directly in the ground and use containers. Plus, if I had to move them because the over growth starts to shade my ladies from the sun, I can. Or if someone happened upon me walking to my girls and I knew they knew what I was doing and I suspected they were gonna come back and search I can move them alltogether to my allready picked out emergency spot to chill for the remainder of their life.
I am going for a 2nd try outdoors this year. 5 years later.

 

[bogatin]

I feel this is another bit of miss information but would love to hear others thoughts

From my experience early = mold, late = no mold. Of course, there are strains that will mold like crazy early or late. Higher temperatures create mold and Powdery Mildew.

Edit:
I should say higher temperatures in late September. Temps around 20ish +.

 

[bogatin]

Although many many---- many things are repeated in the OD/guerilla forum I also believe that’s why there are misconceptions in the guerrilla crowd (say anything enough times and it becomes the truth).

Watering for example in my opinion too many guerillas water when its not really needed. I know a desert environment is different but most guerillas aren’t in the desert. My feeling is from an early age we are trained to water plants like our lawn, our garden and house plants. People think watering any plant is a must but its only because with people growing up in the suburbs with no shade and very little native vegetation the plants need water. In the wild plants have adapted to their environment BUT I also believe the environment is actual more conducive to water retention. (An opinion nothing else)

If you put your plants in the ground vs. on the ground (potted) water is not necessary most of the time. Most of us are growing in or around bush with heavy vegetation, including corn growers, and the vegetation helps retain water by shading and providing good water retaining soil. With the advent or wide spread use of water crystals watering should be something only used when the environment strictly dictates.

What say you???

When I started with guerilla I was under same impression. How will I water my plants? I constructed all kinds of devices. Once I buried two 20l canisters of water in the hole. They had small holes in the bottom. Idea was to slowly release water as soil pulls it from the water container with capillary action. Results from that season proved it as an excess of work for my environment. I never did it again. This could work for some dry areas though. Backcountry proved it works.

Best thing to do is find strain that will grow in your area and work from there. Other than that my advice is to dig! Dig deep! Add water crystals to the lower half of the hole and isolate that half from surrounding media. Only leave holes in the bottom for drainage. Then fill up your hole with your planting soil. My planting soil is what I find on the spot and in the close area. You can find some great humus. Humus is the best! You will bi rewarded with some huge guerilla plants.
It's a lot of work though and I usually don't do it anymore. I even stopped adding water crystals. My environment is also benign.

 

[bogatin]

Barbanegra

Exactly what my opinion is once Oct rolls around and the temps drop mold is much less likely I have personally seen it when drying outdoors.
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Hamstring,
Can you describe your method of drying herb outdoors? I never did it before but I'm planning this year. Even storing it out there...

Idea was to bring in some camouflage netting, make "roof" of some sort beneath it for rain and dew. Add some ropes for hanging the herb.

 

[hamstring]

Hamstring,
Can you describe your method of drying herb outdoors? I never did it before but I'm planning this year. Even storing it out there...

Idea was to bring in some camouflage netting, make "roof" of some sort beneath it for rain and dew. Add some ropes for hanging the herb.

I am far from an expert at anything my success comes from all the failures and being as old as a dinosaur you fall into some success.

First off my drying techniques are based off of what Julian advice was. It’s more of a tool vs. a method. (Speaking of that reading Julian's thread should be job one for a guerrilla.)

Step one is to open up all your buds to check for any sign of bud rot or mold. If you have it drying outside is not an option.

Drying outside always depends on the weather.

I have trapped weed to keep rain off and that will work if the temps are low. The weed doesn’t dry completely but enough were the smell and moisture content is much lower and easier to transport.
I have tarpped weed when the temps are 75-80 and perfectly good weed got moldy. The tarp holds in the humidity and the weed has a tendency to mold.
One thing that I tried afterwards that may work for some guerillas and this is from Silverback. I sprayed my weed with greencure 1/2 strength before tarpping to help prevent the mold.

Last season I bought the black fiberglass window screen and pulled it as tight as I could between a few small trees and put the weed (after it had been trimmed and de-stemmed) on it to dry. The screen allows for good air flow. I like it but again its limited to de-stemmed weed. Most of the time like most others I usually put up some small diameter rope and hang the weed on it.


The most important thing about any of the above methods is being able to access the weed easily and fast because you may have to change tactics depending on the weather. Much better to only tarp when you know its going to rain. You can only make those quick decision if you have easy access .

For me drying outdoors works well for early bud but for most of my weed its strung up so I can come back and trim it up and let the smell and moisture content diminish enough to move to a more secure location.

Drying outdoors has been talked about many times here and I have never seen a fail proof method. People talk about drying with desiccant but it’s for small amounts of weed and if all you have is a ½-lb I am sure finding a place to dry is not that hard. When you have several lbs that’s when bring it home causes diarrhea.

 

[Jaymer]

Last season I bought the black fiberglass window screen and pulled it as tight as I could between a few small trees and put the weed

works good, watch out for older screen molting fiber dust all in your weed though.

i like drying in places lined with sand i.e. vacant construction sites

 

[Barbanegra]

reading Julian's thread should be job one for a guerrilla.

A wealth of knowledge and wisdom to be found there -> Massive Outdoor Grow.

I have found a new spot
Easy access, but well hidden. Good sun and wind. Only issue is very sandy soil. I'll add coco and time release fertiliser. I have to see if I still have some crystals left.

 

[hamstring]

works good, watch out for older screen molting fiber dust all in your weed though.

i like drying in places lined with sand i.e. vacant construction sites

Great point the soil content matter that’s for sure.

The last few seasons have been prime for leaf spot because of the amount of rain in the Midwest. I had several plants spread through out one location and had been dealing with flooding and much rain and leaf spot was beginning to raise its ugly head. I noticed that weed only separated by 40 yards but in a sandy location had less leaf spot. That was the only difference in the area was the soil content sandy soil vs loam.

Its really interesting how just small changes in otherwise matching environments make a big difference. Something all guerrillas should make notice of the small differences in the environment.

Drying over a sandy soil has to help in my opinion.

 

[dnabud]

alone:
i have been thinking of going the bucket route maybe smart pots, but i am leaning away from things i have to maintain , now im thinking something where i did a hole and put the contained plant in it and moisture is wicked into the plant from surrounding soil thru the containment material.

 

[bogatin]

alone:
i have been thinking of going the bucket route maybe smart pots, but i am leaning away from things i have to maintain , now im thinking something where i did a hole and put the contained plant in it and moisture is wicked into the plant from surrounding soil thru the containment material.

Don't want to stir shit again but IMO low maintenance is the point of guerilla. Digging a hole is PITA to do but it's an investment for further seasons. Yes .. moisture from surrounding soil is the key point. Unless of course you live in very dry environment. In this case I would suggest digging even deeper. Perhaps 1m and have the lower part of the hole as a moisture reservoir with water crystals. Of course you would need to isolate it from surrounding soil so moisture doesn't go the other way. Yes it's crazy digging a hole 1m deep but it's worth it in the long run. I did it a couple of times and plants in that spots were huge for guerilla.

 

[Alone]

alone:
i have been thinking of going the bucket route maybe smart pots, but i am leaning away from things i have to maintain , now im thinking something where i did a hole and put the contained plant in it and moisture is wicked into the plant from surrounding soil thru the containment material.

Thats a great idea dnabud. Use like 4 ropes going through holes in the bucket. Dig a deep enough hole and line it with thick black plastic. Fill with water. have some rocks built up along 3 edges so your pot can sit on them without floating in the water. Put your bucket in and let the ropes wick up the water as needed. Sounds good to me. That way you wouldnt need to check on them but 1x a month.

 

[bonedaddy]

i am really liking this guerilla growing site and thanx to the person who started it. i am very new to guerilla growing and i have several questions that i need answers to is possible. i am planning on next years grow now. i have some great spots on private property selected and during the fall i plan on starting the process of hauling in all my material such as bags of dirt,tools, 55 gall water barrels and water else i need to get in there. i will be using 20 gall smart pots and the most important thing i need an answer to is a very good simple water retaining soil mix for smart pots. if somebody that has some experiance with a good mix could share with me i will give you a thumbs up in advance! i will be able to go to my location once every 7 to 9 days so a soil mix that will be good for that time period would be great. where i live we have very hot summers so keep that in mind. also, if any one has used diatomaceous earth in the past could you let me know what you think about the stuff.. my biggest worries are dear.and wild pigs---lots of wild friggen pigs!!!! i,ve heard of using cayenne pepper to keep critters away but i,ll see how that goes. any how, i can use all the info i can get from you guys that have guerilla growing experiance... and by the way, the reason i,m using smart pots is because ireason in the ground is way to rocky to dig in and since iwill probably be using poylmer crystals i expect the pots to swell up and down. thanx for this site and thanx for any and all replies.

 

[marian123]

When it make this subforum ?

80% say YES