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Growroom Electricity and Wiring

rives

rives

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That might help, I don't really have any idea. Trying to ground a dielectric is a hell of a task..... I've seen plastic pipe used on industrial suction systems (against all recommendations!) that would draw a blue arc about a foot long, and all of the pipe hangers were grounded.
 
J

Jhhnn

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I'm trying to figure out why there would be much static in a high humidity environment, like a grow room & also why it matters in the context of a gas line. Even if there's a spark, the gas can't ignite inside the pipe because there's no air. I can't see static having enough current flow to heat the pipe sufficiently to cause a pinhole, either. Here in Denver, buying the wrong carpet leads to a lot of static & tiny shocks during the winter, never enough to cause any damage other than to sensitive electronics.

I'm having trouble seeing it as a real issue.
 
J

Jhhnn

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rives said:
Gas leak, perhaps?
Click to expand...

That's about it, I think. Other sources of ignition would be far more likely, like the CO2 burner coming on or the pilot on the water heater touching it off. Given the amount of mercaptan put in natural gas, it generally reeks people out of the building long before an explosive mixture ratio is achieved.
 
O

OnTheCrush

New member
question!! Can I use a heavy gauge wire that reads e39725 s aa-8000 al type se cable style r xhhw-2 600v 3 cdrs 4/0 awg i cdr 2/0 awg ul. to wire in my MLC-8? I think its a wire used for sub panels. It has a red/white/black/ground. I think it's just overkill especially since I'm running 6-600w off the MLC but I'd rather use it than buy new 8 or 6..
 
rives

rives

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I doubt that you would be able to fit the 4/0 into the MLC-8 lugs - 4/0 aluminum XHHW is rated for 205 amps. It would work fine, but would be a waste of material. If you do use aluminum, make sure and use an anti-oxidation compound and verify the lugs are rated for aluminum use.
 
J

Jhhnn

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OnTheCrush said:
question!! Can I use a heavy gauge wire that reads e39725 s aa-8000 al type se cable style r xhhw-2 600v 3 cdrs 4/0 awg i cdr 2/0 awg ul. to wire in my MLC-8? I think its a wire used for sub panels. It has a red/white/black/ground. I think it's just overkill especially since I'm running 6-600w off the MLC but I'd rather use it than buy new 8 or 6..
Click to expand...

There are special considerations wrt aluminum wiring making it undesirable for DIY'ers, imho. Even pro electricians easily get it wrong.

When all else fails, just follow the instructions-

https://www.hydrofarm.com/downloads/fc/MLC-8XInstructions_23984.pdf

I'd recommend using copper 3 conductor + ground cable so that you can more easily step up to more advanced circuitry like a 120v/240v sub-panel should you desire.

If you think that your future needs won't exceed 7200w, de-rated to 5760w continuous, #10 wiring with a 30A (max) double pole breaker in the main panel will suffice if the run is under 50 ft.

Although widely used, controllers like the one you mention do not properly protect 15A cords & devices connected to them. Keeping that in mind, it's smart to use the smallest possible breaker for the load in the main panel, even if the wiring will handle more. At your present load, ~4000w, a 20A breaker is much safer than anything larger. That's slightly above the 20% de-rating for continuous loads, but the worst that will happen is that it'll trip prematurely if it gets too warm. If you add another 600w light, you'll need a 25A breaker. The bigger the breaker, the greater the safety hazard.

Or so it seems to me, simply because most controllers are really a cheat.

Under the wrong circumstances, a 50A 240v breaker will turn a 15 amp cord into a cloud of smoke rather quickly. Growers' house fires don't happen just because of blasting.

And what rives offered while I composed this, for sure.
 
J

Jhhnn

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sirstonealot said:
Hi all

Anyone able to answer my electrical safety questions in this thread

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=308644

Peace

S.S
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1 That's an electronic speed controller. It's not big enough to be a variac.

2 Can't tell, even from the manufacturer's pdf. Contact them to find out, ask if it's speed controllable. Not all fans are.

3 Unknown. See 2.

4 RCD? Unknown terminology.

5 The motor depends on airflow for cooling, not on what's outside the fan housing. Electronic fan controllers are very efficient & overheating is rarely a problem in open air. Your acoustic foam should work just fine.
 
U

Unagi

Member
Hi, sorry if this question has been asked, but im having a hard time searching the right words i think.

Here goes, i was putting up panda plastic on my spare bedroom and i managed to staple the plastic to a cable transfering electricity to the room. The power in the entire second story of our house went out. Then i pulled out the staple and turned the fuse back on and everything works like normal. Our fusebox not sure if its the right word (the box all our electricity comes from). Is not so old, maybe 4-5 years since it got upgraded.

My question is, can it be dangerous and should i switch out the cable i stapled in. Although the power turned back on and everything seems normal to my eyes.

Thoughts?
 
_tessarecting

_tessarecting

ஓ
I would replace it. You may be able to just wrap it with electrical tape. Short circuits can damage cords. Maybe check voltage, check for heat, any more issues trash it for sure.

Always Better safe than sorry with electrical.
 
rives

rives

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I'd swap it out.

At a minimum, the insulation has been damaged, and it's possible that one or both of the wires was nicked in the process. Obviously the staple hit the hot wire and either the neutral or the ground, so you have damage to both portions of the circuit in close proximity, and perhaps some carbon tracking.
 
J

Jhhnn

Active member
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Unagi said:
Hi, sorry if this question has been asked, but im having a hard time searching the right words i think.

Here goes, i was putting up panda plastic on my spare bedroom and i managed to staple the plastic to a cable transfering electricity to the room. The power in the entire second story of our house went out. Then i pulled out the staple and turned the fuse back on and everything works like normal. Our fusebox not sure if its the right word (the box all our electricity comes from). Is not so old, maybe 4-5 years since it got upgraded.

My question is, can it be dangerous and should i switch out the cable i stapled in. Although the power turned back on and everything seems normal to my eyes.

Thoughts?
Click to expand...

Well, if you've stapled to exposed cable, then the installation obviously doesn't meet code in the first place. With that in mind, I'd shut off the power, split cable jacket at the point of damage, inspect the wiring, split the insulation on each conductor to inspect it as well.

I know it's heresy, but you might be fine to tape each conductor & then tape the cable. If the conductors are less than perfect, I'd install a junction box at or upstream of the damage, replace the whole run only if it is extremely convenient.
 
S

Schwarzenbart

Member
This is fucking golden!!!:tiphat:
sparkjumper said:
I got nailed on one job so bad it made me goofy fucking with the wiring of my brain.I'm not kidding I found myself putting on two pair of underwear,pouring two glasses of coffee.Locking myself out locking myself in getting lost on the way to the store.I can go on and on.I googled electrical shock psychological problems and there were my symptoms in black and white.I went to a doctor and zoloft saved the day.It was fuckin scary I'll never forget it in my life.And that was after working for 10 years as an electrician lol.It's crazy stuff them electrons
Click to expand...
 
rives

rives

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I

iloveweed123

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rives said:
It would be best for you to contact the fan manufacturer directly and see what they recommend for a speed controller, if any. I don't see one listed in their "related products" section, and different fans have very definite preferences for the type of controller that they use.
Click to expand...

Many thanks, I'll give them a ring
 
R

reefone

New member
hi. does this thread still get responses? ive got a couple questions if one of the electrical gurus wouldn't mind answering.
 
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